My comments in Red

My second bike was a build project. It allowed me to assemble a bike with all the items to meet my unique requirements. I'm very happy with the bike, but it's a difficult task and normally not cost effective.

My suggestion is to buy a touring bike if you will feel comfortable on drop-bars or a buy flat-bar road-bike. I use a cyclocross bike, but a touring bike would work just as well for me since I almost never go off-road. What is a flat-bar road-bike? It is a hybrid that uses road wheels and gears instead of mountain bike type wheels and gears. This provides about 80% of the speed available from a good road bike without the use of drop bars.

This is a touring bike: http://www.salsacycles.com/casserollComp08.html

This is a flat-bar road-bike: http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/thebik..._allegro2.html

There are many other examples.

Michael

Michael

I'll offer another perspective on Hybrids.

Many, my Specialized Crosstrail included, lean toward the road. Which you would really want if going the Hybrid route. Some lean more toward the mountain variety.

Also, some, like my Crosstrail, also have lock out suspensions, so that you can choose which way you want to ride. Locked out for hills and such, or, active for really rough pavement. Very easy to use, even when riding. One little flick is all it takes.

Many Hybrids really are a very nice "Do It All" bike. Handy for errands like grocery getting, rides with the family, fitness, and many prefer the upright riding position for commuting, because of the increased visibility (both for seeing, and being seen.) many attachment points for things like racks and fenders, and usually wider tires for nicer riding on rough surfaces. (32mm up to 45mm tires are usually stock, but you can mount smaller). Not all of them have super wide rims. My Crosstrail, even sporting 45mm wide tires as OEM, are only 18mm wide internally, making them suitable for even 28mm wide tires. I currently have a 40mm wide on the rear, and a 35mm wide on the front, after a lot of experimenting. V-Brakes are very good at stopping you, and adding Kwik Stop Salmon colored pads will improve the stopping power even more. Most of these type are capable of carrying larger loads, as most are pretty heavy duty. I carry lots when I go after groceries. It's not uncommon for me to have 4-5 large grocery bags full. Not all Hybrid seats are "squishy." The Body Geometry seat on my Crosstrail is really quite comfortable, and even comes without a sprung seatpost (avoid these seatposts like the plague, as they are energy hogs.) My Brooks B-17 seat, makes it even more comfortable.

The only thing Hybrids don't do --- is race well! I came off a steel road bike for the more comfortable riding position, and carrying ability.

So, ride lots of bikes, and even lots of different sizes, to see what you really like. Don't rule any out, until you have tried them.

Good luck in your quest.

2. Drop Bars: They are often set pretty low which makes them feel awkward to people who aren't used to them. There's no reason they have to be this way, but it's become kind of the fashion. In any case, if you're not comfortable on them, skip them for your first bike. It'll save you some money too as shifters for drop bars add a lot to the price. If you were interested in fast group rides, triathlons, or traditional bike racing then it would make sense to bite the bullet and get used to drops now.

3. Get a complete bike first and get used to working on that before attempting to build one up from just a frame.

4. Three instead of two front cogs/gears/chain rings - whatever you want to call them things up front by the pedals

6. Disks are better in wet weather but not absolutely necessary.

7. If you can afford a new bike go that route this time around. Getting a used bike makes more sense when you're pretty sure of what you want and know what to look for.

hey brushy

sort of went through what you are going through recently in replacing a stolen bike

i've had my eye on Kijiji, Craigslist, Usedottawa. A coworker also told me about trirudy.com, check their classified for higher-end bikes (800-3000$ bicycles)

I found a lot of stuff on CL/Kijiji/Usedottawa was pretty overpriced for what it was, but it could be just me.

Hey, we love this stuff... It's fun to help a "newbie" when they ask specific questions and give us enough information to be specific ourselves! Once we all were where you are now... At the beginning of our first bike purchasing adventure. Most of us didn't have the Bike Forums Family available to help us either. Sometimes we're even too helpful. :)

You're getting some great advice, so I'm just gonna add a couple of comments that I hope will help:

Drop Bars - Try to find a frame that fits you AND where the bar top is only one to two inches (2-5cm) below saddle height. You might have to swap out stems at the shop (they can do this while fitting you). That should make things feel more "natural" and keep your weight balanced between your seat, hands, and feet. As a rule, you don't want too much pressure on any part of your body while riding. As a previous poster noted, a lot of drop-bar bikes are set up with the bars quite low --- Very aero, but not very comfy!

Drop bars are great because you have lots of cushy places to put your hands on moderate to long rides. That can be a huge comfort issue. Your hands, wrists, shoulders, and back may thank you! They can all hurt if you're locked into a single position on a flat-bar bike. Having said that, there are some multi-position flat bars (H-bars, Norths, etc.) and special grips (Ergons, etc.) that mimic a drop bar's advantages.

So when you're in a shop and find a drop-bar bike that you like in a size that fits, ask them to put on a stem that gets the bars up within 2-5cm of the top of the saddle. Then see what you think.

Used bikes - They are great if you know what you are looking for - and what you are looking at. Many gems, but many pitfalls, too. I would recommend a new bike to start with. You are going to end up with a great bike because you know what questions to ask (and where to ask them). You also appear to be willing to walk into (and out of) a lot of bike shops. The education you are getting will ensure a wise purchase. If you've got the money, a new bike is the best deal going.

Building Your Own - Save this for bike #2... You'll quickly start accumulating tools, knowledge, and a taste for what you like. Eventually, you'll see a frame that you love and all the possibilities for a totally custom ride. You'll then be in the advanced stages of the sickness that we all have! Heaven help you when that happens...

Keep your courage up - and keep shopping... Finally, don't buy something unless you ride it in your size. When you find YOUR new bike, nothing will be able to wipe the smile from your face!

Happy hunting,

DWR

A touch more info on triples, since you asked.

My triple, three chainrings on the pedals, are 48, 36, 26 tooth sprockets. These paired with a 9 cog (sprockets) rear cassette ranging from 11 to 32 teeth, let you go fast when you want to, and is still low enough to ride up a wall if you can get traction.

Another aside, bar ends, along with Ergon Grips, on a modified, means it has bends taking it up and back, straight/flat bar give you considerable comfort, and more places to put your hands.

Now, get out to some LBS today, and start riding bikes......

Something that I didn't see pointed out is a Touring bike is a more upright riding position then a Cyclocross. The top of the bars tend to be near the seat height sometimes higher. The drops let you tuck when fighting head winds but when cruising you can ride on the hoods in a very relaxed riding position.

Cyclocross is more of a race position. The cyclocross also tends to have shorter chain stays (distance of the rear axle from the crank). This will cause more problems with heel strike on Pannier (heel hitting bags while peddling).

I have commuted on a Rigid mountain bike (no suspension) with street friendly tires making it like a Hybrid. A Sport bike, a race bike and a touring bike. BY FAR I like my touring bike. I rode my Mountain yesterday and it took me a full 5 minutes extra time and a lot more effort to get to work yesterday. The head winds I fought on the way home totally suck. I'm ready to put triples on my race bike or sell it. I just don't get any use out of it as a commuter and I don't race. I picked it up to do sunday rides and centuries but the gearing just sucks. I'm looking for constant speed and a 42x22 low sucks on the hills around here.

While with the touring frame I did give up some sportiness I picked up a LOT better ride, Larger more durable tires (I run a 700x35) and triples. I overall average 15mph including hills that I have plenty of. the Mtn/hybrid I was lucky to get 11mph.

If you live in the hills triple cranks are a must. I participated in a Metric a few weeks ago and all these folks on "race Bikes" were hating life 50 miles into it with double race cranks. I was passing them on the hills since I could gear down. It was really chapping their behinds to get passed by a Touring bike in full "fred" with racks, fenders, AirZound and a large trunk bag. LOL

Many cyclocross bikes have triple cranks so if you are looking for the sportier ride to dart in and out of obsticals they would be a good choice. Most will except a 700x32 if you have rough roads that will take a lot of harshness out of them. It will be faster then a Touring but not as comfortable over long distance since it is more of a race position (bars lower then seat).

Though, I agree w/all this and previous advice on flat vs drop bars, DIY vs lbs purchase, etc., I'm offering my perspective re triple cranksets and commuting. As you progress you'll find yourself using one chainring in the front for the larger percentage of your 20km commute. Unless you've several 10-20% grade hills on your route a triple will be overkill. Or if you want to use your bike for touring of any sort, ie weekenders, overnighters, day-tips, off roading, etc. Then by all means a triple. With the gearing mentioned above. Just don't practice on the walls inside your residence. :)

However, I'm going to recommend a double or even a single chainring set-up for most of one's commuting needs. Here's a couple of bikes to give you an idea of double vs triple: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...ntom_cross.htm or http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/surly/longhaul.htm Note they both have the same cantilever brake set-up...entry level. Both are set up for rack/bags and have drop handlebars. One has bar-end shifting. Ok for touring, not so ok for commuting. STIs(brake/shifter combo) are better in traffic. One's a triple, one's a double. One's steelframe and one's aluminum. Aluminum's fine for 20km commute's, not for 200 mi weekenders. One's 1000.00US, one's 800US. One's got a great rep and the other's a fine bike w/comparable componentry, but IS aluminum.

And if that's not enough to explode your head, here's one more for you: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/.../cafe_noir.htm A flat-bar road bike w/braze-ons for a rack/bags. Lower spoke count means less load capacity, but should be fine for commutes and weekenders. Cro-Mo frame(steel) w/a carbon tapered fork give a more comfortable ride while subtracting weight, overall. 700.00US

The suggestion here isn't that you purchase any of these bikes it's to give you an idea of what's out there and how you may apply the different configuations to your particular needs. If you go w/a cross bike make sure the tires are exchanged for road tires as the stock tires are usually too soft for street use of any duration and will wear down quickly thereby raising your likelyhood of flatting.

BTW, I have this bike: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/..._cross_cx3.htm Only it's the 2008 version w/2009 upgrades. It has a 'compact double' w/50tx36t crankset and a 9 sp 26tx12t cassette. Mine's got over 7000 commuter miles w/only minor adjustments to the brakes(as the pads wear), der cables, frt and rr der 'limiting screws', chain maintenance(cleaning,lubing), a couple of rear wheel truings and rim, cassette frame cleaning once per week or after rains. Also, I swapped the stock tires to Schwalbe Marathon Plus 700x28mm. The bike's been a hoss and I couldn't be happier. I'm 5'11" and got the 56cm version. Delta mega rack w/Jandd saddlebags...not recommended as they're small and NOT waterproof at all. Mine are as I brushed 'em w/3 coats of Thompson's Water Sealer inside and out. :p

Whatever you decide on just get out, ride and have fun. :thumb:

My 2 cents Brushy would be to find a LBS that has used bikes. If there are none on the floor, you can always ask if they have any. I can't tell now if you are riding, so it would be hard for me to recommend one versus another besides going by the length of commute and the road conditions that you give. And given that scenario all the types of bikes you mentioned would be fine, which of course is of no help.

If you are currently riding, what type of bike is it? What do you like or dislike about it? If you are not currently riding I would suggest the used bike first so you have a better idea of what you like or dislike about it, before stepping up to something better. I think you need a number of miles under your belt (with whatever kind of bike) in a bunch of different conditions before you can really make an informed decision. The descriptions people give about the bikes are in relation to other bikes and sometimes the experiences they have had. I think you need to have those experiences to understand what they mean. You won't understand how much of a difference something is until you have a comparison.

For example, if you have a bike do something simple like changing tires and you will have a better understanding about the differences. Ride a bike with knobby tires, and then ride one with slicks. Go to your LBS and ride a mountain bike, then ride a road bike. If you have a friend ride his 90's hybrid, then ride a CX bike.

I think your first bike should be your learning bike, and your second bike should address what you learned from the first. Another poster pointed that out to me.