spacedesign

Aha I think that fixed it, I lubed inside the very end of the cable housing at the IGH, and let the oil run up the cable, appreciate the heads up.

soho2009

glad to hear it helped. I was a bit of an idiot last winter, getting stuck in one gear with a severe version of the issue and then after a week of on again, off again issues riding into the lbs and having them spend exactly 20 seconds solving the problem. It was an obvious issue and easy fix only in hindsight.

Just a thought for the future upgrade. I cracked/sheared one of the seat rails at about 7,000 miles. For some reason I really liked the seat and so called the lbs to see if I could get it repaired/replaced under warranty, but no dice. It was a stretch but I really liked the seat. Temporarily, I used a 40 year old Brooks B-17 for about 500-1000 miles. Then I ordered my favorite seat, a fizik gobi, and installed it last week. (This seat allows me full range of motion so my uppedaling is not hindered and actually encourages it.)

Anyway, expect purchasing a new seat in the 7000 + mile area.

spacedesign

Soho2009, I appreciate chatting to another owner, my bike is the 2010 model, I just bought it so its possibly been in its box in a warehouse for up to a year!

Just to be sure I upturned the bike and dropped some oil into the tensile steel cable at end of the black gear cable sleeve, and let the oil run up inside the sleeve (black cable). It worked! Is there anywhere else worth oiling? Because it can catch again on occasion, i.e. after 3 days? Maybe its the 3n1 oil I used?

I did a few simple things to the bike, I put self adhesive rubber pads on the mudguards under the brackets that hold them to the frame, I also used these pads on the outer case of the roller brakes to stop the loose arms rattling. The bike is tight and doesn't make a sound on bumps, I have to use the bell a lot coming up behind pedestrians.

I checked out your seat, looks nice, I’m breaking in a Brooks Flyer, it is hard, it defies logic why I can cycle on it longer than the fine Bontrager Nebula Plus Saddle that came with the bike, so I assume its down to my ass and the springs!

The stock saddle on my Soho is for sale on the Bontrager site? I’d offer you mine, but I will keep it in case the Brooks doesn’t work out. This is the one I got on my bike.

https://bontrager.com/model/08374

I found after changing to the Brooks my hands got tired on the grips up front a lot sooner, so I would like to see if there are better alternatives, I also find I slip to the front of the saddle and that I could do with the handlebars being pushed further to the front?

soho2009

Thanks for the seat link but I discussed the option with the lbs and ultimately decided that rail failure in about 1 year of commuting for me was too soon. The fizik seat cost me about twice as much but I expect it to last 5 - 10 years or about 5-10 time as long as the oem seat. I also chose the gobi because I have had excellent personal experience using it on a hardtail mtb commuter over 20 miles each way for over 5 years in all weather conditions.

The Brooks Flyer is a very big saddle and I would shy away from it with commutes greater than roughly 10 miles each way due to hip socket full motion and energy transfer loss due to the springs. Less than 10, the comfort would be nice and the ability to uppedal is pretty meaningless. Saddles are very personal, though, and depending on the surfaces you are commuting, you could be very happy. It may be you just need to give the Brooks a bit of time to break in. If you are slipping forward, it sounds like the Brooks needs some angle and position adjustment. ( If you bought the saddle from an lbs, have them tweak it for you.) There are also plenty of suggestions/solutions on how to break in Brooks saddles via the net. The oem saddle on the Trek Soho took about 1000 miles of riding to break it in to where I was comfortable. Not sure how long it will take the Gobi, but Ive already tweaked it 3 times in 160 miles and all three were angle issues. I cant recall how lonk it took on my first gobi to break it in.

As to the shift cable - there is one other spot that I needed to relube that was mentioned in a previous thread. I used the shimano hub grease (white) If you are not familiar with removing the hub shifting than have the lbs do it. Its the back face of the shift hub cover. This web page, 3rd pic down, (grey), is the cassettte where you should see some white grease. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/nexus8/pages/26.htm When you unlock the shifting mechanism to pull the shift cable out from where it is attached to the bike, the cover will come off and you should see white grease.

As a warning, I struggled the first few times reseating the cassette so forwarned is forarmed. Of course this activity will also prepare you for replace tires and tubs so its not totally lost time and much better to learn in a 72 degree F environment than 100 degree F, the first time, or than in 40 degree freezing rain where I learned the second time.

If you are buying the hub grease about $15.00, then consider buying the roller brake grease at the same time. https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/tools/lubricants.html I am using the roller brake grease about once every 3 months or 1500 to 2000 miles.

As to what lube to use on the cable sleeve, I dont know what lube the lbs used there but Ill ask next time Im in his shop.

BarracksSi

I don't think a longer reach to the bars will help -- it'll just make you reach more. You'll see a good number of Brooks saddles with the nose angled slightly upward. My own B17 has grown more of a hammock shape now, so the nose angles upward a tad from the center, and the back angles a smidge up, too. Front-to-back, rivet-to-rivet, is still pretty level, though.

spacedesign

I changed the angle and raised the front of the Brooks Flyer by one notch on the Bontrager saddle post, so on my 22.5 Frame the saddle is pretty much parallel with the top crossbar and that sorted the problem of sliding to the front. I think I'm just about right with the saddle height, good power, nice cadence, and the handling in traffic is so much sharper when you get your saddle height right. I read some comments about the handling being odd on the bike but when you get your saddle right, its a very very sharp handling bike in traffic as slow speeds.

The stock grips on the handle bars can still be a slight issue, on 15km cycle they start to get "loud" around the 10 km mark, and thats with padded gloves. The are superb quality, but my hands ket a little sore and tired, Im not experienced enough to know if this happens all cyclists, and all grips after a while but I was about to order in a pair of these from Trek to see if they might make a difference ?

https://bontrager.com/model/09149

but its an information overload minefield out there! as soon as I was looking at these I then found them as part of a new handle bar for very similar money.

https://bontrager.com/model/09171

My wife has a Trek Allant with similar "wedge" shaped grips and they are a lot more supportive. Any thoughts?

mtalinm

I can't stand the stock soho grips. Replaced them with bontrager satellite plus and then put on cane creek ergo bar ends. World of difference. Wish i could find some small ergo grips for my folder.

That inform bar looks cool

BarracksSi

I have some Ergon grips that are almost identical to the Satellite grips pictured. I won't own another flat-bar bike without them now. Even though I changed my commuter to drops, I'm keeping the Ergons to use when either I or my wife end up with another bike.

soho2009

Hmmm - Some good thoughts on handlebars. I've been using the oem system and havent been really impressed, especially on trail riding. Ill take a look at them and pass a note to the family for holiday gift suggestions.

By the way, I'm assuming you turned your bell upside down by now. Its the only way you can ring the bell and brake at the same time. Plus, if you have to flip the bike to do maintenance, its saves the bell from becoming one with the ground. Not sure how to save the shift indicator, though.

screech

I am the Original Poster of this thread and wanted to make a small update.

The Trek grips were always sliding around so I added Portland Design Works leather grips - they are awesome!

I had the rear wheel replaced under warranty (including Hub) due to the wicker basket creaking. No more creaking the last couple hundred miles. It must have been a quality or design flaw. I had the rear tube changed and now the belt may be a little loose. Sometimes in Second gear when I start real hard from a light, there's a loud CRACK! sound, almost like a firecracker. People on the street look over. I think it's the belt skipping. Need to get that tightened a little bit.

I just broke the seat stay bolt (near the frame), it sheared and wouldn't tighten anymore, probably from too much torque and lots of on and off putting the child bike hitch on. Need to get that fixed as my seat is spinning as I ride LOL.

I love my cafe lock, it's so convenient.

I added a CETMA porteur rack so I can carry my bass amp to gigs, that's been a really freeing experience. I also had a child in the hospital and was carrying lots of stuff back and forth from home. The rack and bike was my one bright spot during that period.

After my rear wheel was replaced my bike came back from the shop and the rear brake was strong as hell, it really locks up if I'm not careful. I'm used to the hub brakes, and like that 1) they don't need much maintenance; and 2) work consistently in the rain.



This bike truly is an all-weather commuter!

mtalinm

Let me know if you figure out a way to get rid of the CRACK. I have this too and it makes me slow down for fear of breaking something...

bmorey

A crack when starting off at lights or on an incline is the belt skipping a cog because it's not tight enough. This happened to me when my Solo was about 4 months old - I put it down to wearing-in of a new belt. I tightened the belt - problem solved. I've ridden another six month with no problems, although I did re-tighten the belt when I changed the rear tire due to a puncture.

The correctly adjusted belt is really tight -- tighter than a chain. If you made a chain that tight it would probably break.

mtalinm

That makes sense...how does one tighten the belt, is it that rear-facing screw? I assume clockwise tightens the belt? Mine is definitely loose

well, I couldn't figure it out. took it to the LBS for an adjustment...

...and oh what a difference. I must've had 2" of slack before. much tighter now...

ismellfunny28

Hey,

I've been biking on my soho for a couple of months now and it's great.

I'm wondering if anyone has changed the handlebars from stock to drop bars. It seems a bit complicated because IGH.

vtjim

I'd be interested in changing bars as well, if/when I buy one. I'm about to tick through 10,000 miles on my Trek Liquid 25 and I'm leaning toward the Soho as a replacement.

I haven't dug through all the pages of this thread, so apologies if it has already been brought up, but does anyone know what the DLX weighs? (The belt drive Soho, I mean.) I'm sure it's going to be way less than my 35-40 pounds when fully loaded Liquid.

RB1-luvr

that's a cool, unique bike. I like it.

BarracksSi

Well, my first thought would be to use either a JTek barend shifter or the Shimano-like shift-brake lever from Versa, but I don't know if a JTek shifter is made for the Soho's 7-speed hub, and Versa's is for an 8-speed Alfine hub.

Check out what Civia's Bryant is using:
https://civiacycles.com/bikes/bryant/

There's more info out there if you dig around.

ismellfunny28

awesome site, thank you.

mtalinm

ack, you had to post the Bryant. What I wouldn't give for drop bars (and more gears) on my Soho...

bmorey

Over the past 2 months my Trek Carbon Solo developed a creak/squeak in, I think, the bottom bracket. As well there was a loud once-per-revolution crack from the IGH and a marked tendency to slip in 5th gear (and only 5th). It's 9 months old so I took it into LBS form a premature (free) 12 month service.

What wouldn't have helped is that 3 weeks ago I misjudged a flooded bike path -- water went up over the gears and bottom bracket -- that involved me having to dismount and wade out. It's really hard to pedal and balance when water is almost up to your knees.

LBS advises: bottom bracket had had some water in. Some small amounts of rusty metal (wear/swarf) in the IGH. Belt too tight (my fault). Gear change cable rusted and binding. LBS suggested paying for this service and saving the free service for 12 months. The IGH was cleaned and lubed, bottom bracket removed and greased, rear brake cleaned and lubed, and the iron-wire gear cable replaced (inner & outer) with stainless cable.

Result: bike is like new and once again a pleasure to ride. The real surprise: cost of service/parts was $55 - a bargain.

spacedesign

Very informative post! I just recieved some of the Shimano IGH lub, and Roller Brake Lub, as my LBS didn't have it, so for my next service I'll supply it.

soho2009

I didnt change the stock to drop bars but last week I turned the handlebar stem upside down which "drops" the stock bars about 2-3 inches. Not sure why I didn't do this a year ago. Too soon to tell if its something I'll stick with.

bmorey

It's the belt slipping - just tighten the belt. But don't overtighten - I did and LBS picked me up on it.

I've had my Trek Carbon Solo 12 months this week. It's the third bike I've owned over the past 5 years and undoubtedly the best: strong, comfortable and almost maintenance-free.

FlatSix911

Diggin' the new singletrack belt system ...
The new design will be more tolerant of belt alignment issues.

soho2009

Great pics! Thank You. Will the new system do as a good a job of clearing debris, especially sticky stuff like mud and wet cement? I was really impressed by the self cleaning aspects of the original system.

The bolt system in the rear looks redesigned, too. Any insight there?

Acme?