mountain vs road frame
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Chicago
Posts: 179
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
mountain vs road frame
Cross post from utility forum. Realized I might get good (better?) info here.
I've been getting by for a few years on different bikes with different set ups for different times of year and conditions. I'd like to make something definitive now that I have a good idea about what would work best for me. I live in Chicago, and my rides are almost all less than 5 miles, flat, and entirely on paved roads which are at least fairly maintained in the winter. I don't ride in deep, fresh snow, but I do in all other conditions. Main purposes are for commuting and errands including groceries. Here are my non-negotiables:
1) Mounts for rack/fenders
2) Spacing wide enough to accept at least 35mm studded winter tires
3) Usable with Shimano Nexus inter-3 rear wheel with coaster brake, for wet/slushy weather (I've considered instead a new fork with disc mounts but ruled it out for various reasons)
4) Ideally a somewhat upright posture, but not dutch-bike-esque
Although buying a new frame and building up from there would be the "best" option, I can't find a way to get this project done for less than $1200 that way--my budget is more like $6-700. What I've done before is bought old, basically discarded steel bikes and rebuilt them with modern components. I'm thinking that would be my next best option again, but I don't know whether to use a mountain or road frame.
Problems with mountain frame are:
-Typically spacing of rear dropouts is 135mm, which I would need to "cold set" to 126 or so to accept the IG hub I have in mind (it comes spaced to 120mm, can be respaced up to 126).
-Frames are often heavier and often cheap, Taiwan-made and TIG welded.
Problems with road frames are:
-Cannot accept any more than about 35mm max, and I couldn't run wider if I wanted.
-The geometry is less flexible to allow for more upright riding.
-Likely the stock wheels are 27", which means I also need a new front wheel (for 700c tires), whereas I may not need one with a 26" mountain bike frame assuming it's in good condition still.
SO, I'd like your thoughts on whether you think picking up a road or mountain frame would be preferred. Thanks all.
I've been getting by for a few years on different bikes with different set ups for different times of year and conditions. I'd like to make something definitive now that I have a good idea about what would work best for me. I live in Chicago, and my rides are almost all less than 5 miles, flat, and entirely on paved roads which are at least fairly maintained in the winter. I don't ride in deep, fresh snow, but I do in all other conditions. Main purposes are for commuting and errands including groceries. Here are my non-negotiables:
1) Mounts for rack/fenders
2) Spacing wide enough to accept at least 35mm studded winter tires
3) Usable with Shimano Nexus inter-3 rear wheel with coaster brake, for wet/slushy weather (I've considered instead a new fork with disc mounts but ruled it out for various reasons)
4) Ideally a somewhat upright posture, but not dutch-bike-esque
Although buying a new frame and building up from there would be the "best" option, I can't find a way to get this project done for less than $1200 that way--my budget is more like $6-700. What I've done before is bought old, basically discarded steel bikes and rebuilt them with modern components. I'm thinking that would be my next best option again, but I don't know whether to use a mountain or road frame.
Problems with mountain frame are:
-Typically spacing of rear dropouts is 135mm, which I would need to "cold set" to 126 or so to accept the IG hub I have in mind (it comes spaced to 120mm, can be respaced up to 126).
-Frames are often heavier and often cheap, Taiwan-made and TIG welded.
Problems with road frames are:
-Cannot accept any more than about 35mm max, and I couldn't run wider if I wanted.
-The geometry is less flexible to allow for more upright riding.
-Likely the stock wheels are 27", which means I also need a new front wheel (for 700c tires), whereas I may not need one with a 26" mountain bike frame assuming it's in good condition still.
SO, I'd like your thoughts on whether you think picking up a road or mountain frame would be preferred. Thanks all.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 8,101
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 52 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 17 Times
in
13 Posts
Since your budget is somewhat limited you may need to compromise a bit and not worry about where the frame is made.
Nashbar has some frames for pretty cheap. I think you can get a touring frame and fork for about $150. I'm not sure what the tire clearance is on those. You could also get a cyclocross frame for about the same price. It should be able to handle 35s OK but the geometry may be more aggressive than you like.
A good used frame that may fit your requirements pretty well if you can find one is the Bianchi Project series from the 90's. It was an ATB with 700c wheels. It came with 45 or 50 mm tires so 35s will be no problem at all. It also has a lugged steel frame. Probably made in Taiwan though. I found one last spring for $125.
Nashbar has some frames for pretty cheap. I think you can get a touring frame and fork for about $150. I'm not sure what the tire clearance is on those. You could also get a cyclocross frame for about the same price. It should be able to handle 35s OK but the geometry may be more aggressive than you like.
A good used frame that may fit your requirements pretty well if you can find one is the Bianchi Project series from the 90's. It was an ATB with 700c wheels. It came with 45 or 50 mm tires so 35s will be no problem at all. It also has a lugged steel frame. Probably made in Taiwan though. I found one last spring for $125.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,033
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
-The geometry is less flexible to allow for more upright riding.
Given the choice I'd rather have Kool Stop Salmon pad, fenders and good rain tyres than even a front fork disc brake and less good tyres. And any sort of rear mounted brake is always going to have second rate stopping power. If you can get the hub on a frame that will take wide tyres, go for it - tjspiel's suggestions sounded reasonable - otherwise I'd say sell it. The keys to fast braking are at the front of the bike, not the rear.
As for re-setting the frame of an MTB - I dunno!