Bicycle security?
 

Well my crappy bike was stolen and I was forced to buy another bike. I ended up with a Redline 925. I got it today so I have not been able to ride it yet really. I got a Kryptonite U lock(keeper LS model), so I want to know what everyone thinks of these locks. It seems that Kryptonite is the brand to go with. The model I have is rated as a "7" on a scale of 1-12 on Kryptonite's website: (https://www.kryptonitelock.com/Outle...=1000&pid=1109)

I live in Chicago and I keep my bike inside my apartment, but when I ride to the train or to school, I want to be sure no one steals it. Is this type of U-lock sufficient? Should I buy a better model? Has anyone ever heard of these being picked, cut, broken, or compromised at all?

Thanks in advance!
JD

That's a nice bike. Get Kryptonite's "New York" instead.

My setup...

http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikepics/lockup3.jpg

http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikepics/lockup4.jpg

http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikepics/lockup6.jpg

Train stations are known for attracting bike thieves, right? I'd spring for a New York-series U-lock if you can afford one and don't mind the weight. Looks like it would be around $74 shipped from aebike.com, to name one place you could order one (or check your LBS).

Alternately, for $74 you could probably get an old junker bike just to ride to the train station without worrying about your budget lock so much ;)

Whichever way you decide, it's good to do like Sixty Fiver shows, and get your lock's shackle filled up so there's not room to put a jack in there. And two locks are better than one.

Congrats to the Redline, very nice bike. Do both, Kryptonite lock and cable. How did you lock your last bike?

Add a good cable lock as well. There are times when ulocks don't work (usually in the burbs) and when the ulock does work a cable will get both of your wheels and requires a different tool to cut it.

To lock a Redline 925 in Chicago I'm guessing you don't need a NY lock.

I agree. I've been using the Series 4 (orange) locks for 3 years in downtown Chicago and on campus. I also can always count of having a better locking method than my bike rack neighbor.

Make sure you lock it like in these pictures:
http://www.chicagobikes.org/public/theftprevention.php

That's the key to making a u-lock work alright: the way the good ones get broken is by a thief using a bottle jack. But the jack has to be inserted inside the U. If the space there is filled the lock is at its most effective.

I also use allen keyed skewers on most bikes to discourage the wheel and saddle thieves.

The last bike was locked up with a cable lock. My theory was-Who the hell wants this crappy bike? Also It was locked up in front of the train station and a cafe that is open all day and late at night. I just did not think someone would be so brave to take it from there. I should have taken note that the other bikes parked there all had U- locks. Lesson learned.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I think I'll buy the series 4 U-lock. I have also been looking at Kryptonite's chain locks to lock up my front wheel/frame. The front wheel on the 925 is not quick release, but I would rather not buy one because it was stolen. After seeing my crappy bike get ripped off, I can only imagine the lengths thieves might go to take my nice bike.

I would rather spend $100 on a secure setup now, then $500 on a new bike tomorrow.

[QUOTE=Sixty Fiver;9792705]My setup...

http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikepics/lockup3.jpg

Hey 65er,

I don't quite understand what you did here. I am still a novice as far as a lot of things on bikes these days. I could rip apart my 20" and put it back together no prob, but is this a mod to the hub? Is it essentially what a wheel lock does for wheels on a car? Was it a difficult mod? I see why this is a good idea, anyone can carry around a 15mm wrench and split with my wheel. How is this done?

Sheldon's technique: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html

I'm glad someone posted a link to Sheldon Brown's technique, because I had some questions. Sheldon Brown's picture shows his mini U-lock securing only the rear wheel to the fixed object. He notes that it's not necessary for the U-lock's loop to contain both the rear wheel and frame. Yet it seems that every picture that shows proper U-lock use has both the rear wheel and frame then the fixed object inside its loop. This personally applies to me, since I have a mini U-lock that makes it seem impossible to fit all three items in its loop. However, just securing the rear wheel and fixed object (like Sheldon Brown) seems pretty feasible. So my first question is, is the inclusion of the frame in the U-lock around the rear wheel necessary? I would if I could, just in case, but my mini U-lock almost never would allow it.

I also wanted to describe my current locking strategy for review. I plan to use my Kryptonite New York Fahgeddaboudit Mini U-lock to secure my rear wheel and the fixed object. I plan to use my Kryptonite KryptoFlex 1007 security cable to loop around my front (quick-release) wheel and frame then snake it through under the (quick-release) seat and around the rear wheel. That end of the cable will end in the U-lock. Does this seem safe enough?

That's a problem with the NY-F lock, since it's so small. I prefer to lock the frame and the wheel because some thieves might mess with my bike if they thought "oh, I'll get everything but the rear wheel, sweet," so I use a bigger lock that can do it. Also, a rim, tire and tube don't represent much of an obstacle to, say, a cordless recip saw. Amazing what you can cut with those things :)

Regarding the cable for securing the front wheel, seat & post, it's a good deterrent.

[quote=jd27;9794084]Many of my bikes have allen keyed skewers or nutted axles to discourage thieves from trying to remove my wheels... as they get locked up they cannot be taken but there have been quite a few cases of people finding their QR's undone when they come back to their bikes and riding away with you QR open is a recipe for disaster.

My mini u lock is just big enough that it can also be used to lock the crank arm to the chainstay (on some bikes) which completely prevents the bike from being ridden away.

I figure would be thieves look at my bike and say screw it and look for easier targets like bikes that only have a single cable.

You should use TWO DIFFERENT types of locks. I live in a nice area and lock my bike outside. I used three locks on my 2006 Allez and recently bought a brand new Tricross and I used 4 locks on (overkill, bought it's never been stolen so far).

If you were locking your bike in the same spot jd27 the thief may have learned your routine. Mini's have both advantages and disadvantages just as any lock. You may want to vary your routine and invest in the New York Kryptonite series for the area you are talking about locking your bike at.

So easy a caveman could do it...
 

I feel REALLY dumb for not realizing the simple idea that once the u-lock is through the rear triangle obviously the rear wheel cannot be removed. I had to actually try it out to visualize and believe it. Now I can understand better what I read and saw on the Sheldon Brown lock tips page. Also, the cable combined with the u-lock makes sense. It would put off a thief having to carry around 2 different tools. I imagine most thieves plan on riding away the bike they just stole, so for them to carry around bolt cutters and something leverage the U-lock open is unlikely. The greatest example Sheldon Brown's method's reveal is that keeping the u-lock through the rear wheel and forcing a thief to cut the wheel will probably never happen. I have the u-lock with the larger inner area, so I may switch to the mini.

I have since started riding to a different station that is more well lit, and has a lot more businesses around it. It's too bad the CTA does not put cameras up near these bike racks to further deter thieves.

Eventually I may just ride my bike all the way to work.

Do you park outside the CTA station? If you have a nice bike that you want to keep, that seems like a recipe for potential trouble, no matter how well lit or busy the front of the station is. If there is bike parking inside the station (which many stations have), that seems a bit safer, but still not ideal. Lot of people coming and going, no one paying any attention to anyone else. I know that the California Blue Line station that I use occasionally has had bikes stolen from out front, in broad daylight, a block away from the police precinct, and with a decent amount of foot traffic. A kind of hip new single speed like the 925 would be a pretty tempting target, and I imagine pretty easy to resell.

I'd suggest you take advantage of the wonderful fall weather we're having, and ride all the way to work. This is the best time to ride - you don't have to worry about being totally sweaty all the time, and don't have to wear twelve layers of wool and two pairs of gloves just to make it down the street. Enjoy it!

And make sure to lock both of your wheels.

One of the Mini's main disadvantages is what exactly it will lock around. Scope out the area first to find out what you can lock the bike to. Take along a tape measure or eyeball it and determine which u-lock will work best.

You may also want to look into a beater bike if you plan on leaving the bike unattended for a long period of time. That nice shiny Redline I suspect would attract unwanted attention when left unattended. If you are looking into spending close to $100 for a lock perhaps that money would be better spent on something from craigslist or elsewhere.

Professional thieves I suspect would have the tools necessary to defeat any lock. However I doubt they would go through much trouble to take an X-mart or beater bike left unattended but properly locked. But that Redline might be to tempting to pass up. All locks are defeatable. How much time, how much effort, and is it worth the risk seem to be the limiting factors.