tjmaxx

First off, this is my first post after lurking quite a bit. If this should go in another forum, just say so and I will repost.

I started riding to work this week (7 mi"ish" each way). So far, I love it. I find myself looking forward to the ride--even though my trip home is uphill and has been into a killer headwind all this week. Morning is the bomb! Anyway, I have a combo mountain/cruiser bike (a giant upland with 26x195 knobby tires). I have several questions:

1)How many miles should I get out of my tires/chain/etc...?
2)What kind of preventative maintenance should I be doing to my bike?
3)I don't know squat about bike tires. Can someone suggest a good "road" tire for me?
4)Anyone out there in Columbus OH and know of a reliable bike shop?
5)What should I use to lube my chain?

Oh, if you care, here are some stats from my first 3 days riding:

(They looked bad after posting. If you want to see them, send me an e-mail :^)

I know cal is just an estimate (from an impressive looking math formula), but one of my main reasosn for starting riding to work is to loose weight. I weigh 230 right now.

Thanks for the help to the newbie!

supcom

1. Tires vary considerably but you should be able to count on a least a couple thousand miles assuming you don't slice them on a piece of glass. The chain will last thousands of miles if you clean and lube it regularly. In both cases, replacements are cheap compared with the amount of use so don't sweat it.

2. Clean it regulalry and lubricate the various pivit points and the chain. Keep the brakes and deraillers adjusted. About once a year, repack the wheel and headset bearings. True up the wheels now and then.

3. I use Specialized Armadillo tires on all my bikes because they have excellent flat resistance. They are a bit heavier than regular tires, but so what. Who want's to change a flat on the way to work? With Armadillos, I don't get flats.

4. Can't help you there.

5. Chains should be lubed with slippery stuff. I used to use Boeshield and it works well. Recently I began using a homemade blend of moly grease and white gas. You can use any available chain lube, even motor oil. They all work. Some get dirtier faster than others. Real thin stuff like WD-40 will anger the lube priests here and may subject you to the inquisition and boiling in White Lightening. You have been warned - just don't use it. Seriously, if you do a search on 'chain lube' here you will find plenty of threads and NO consensus of opinion.

shaq-d

1. you get at least 2000km's on tires. if your tires are the cheap kind, even longer. cheaper tires (non-race tires) are built to last. chains and cassettes last you 3-5000km's. maybe even more.

2. just make sure everything is tight now and then. and that your brakes are well-adjusted.

3. bike tires... the spec armadillos have a good reputation for flat-proof stuff. me, i like my vittoria rubino "racy" tires. i hardly get any flats anyway.

5. lubing your chain: if you're commuting daily, wd-40 is cheap, and fine if you apply it everyday. or use pro-link. i vacillate between wd-40, prolink, and motor oil. depends on my mood, i basically think there's no diff .

stats don't matter. you'll lose the weight automatically, that's just how commuting works.

sd

Daily Commute

It all depends. I got about 2K out of my first chain before it stretched. If you go into a bike shop, they'll test it for stretch for free if they know you'll buy the replacement chain from them. You should check if it starts to skip gears a lot.

Tires, it depends again, mainly on whether you hit glass.


Regularly wipe down the chain whenever it starts to get black, and always after it gets wet. Tighten stuff when they get loose. Watch for wear on the break pads.

Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance (he sells one for MTB, too) has really good maintenance and repair information. Check it out from the library first to see if you like it, but it only costs $20. I know the Columbus library system has it. You can reserve it and have it brought to the branch nearest you. Also, peruse the shelves of a bookstore or library for other possible books.


I'd replace the knobbies with slicks. Gatorskins and Armadillos are fine, but neither is bullet proof. You might try a "normal" slick and buy a kevlar lining.


I like Baer Wheels in Clintonville. It is just down the street from Bike Source. Both are full-service, full-priced, honest stores. The bell curve of Baer's products is a little higher than Bike Source, but Bike Source still carries a lot of higher-end stuff. I also like the fact that Dave Baer is often in the store. Baer is smaller, which means it's more personal, but if three people are ahead of you, that can mean a wait to talk with someone.


They're basically the same. I use T-9 from BoeShield because it costs less per ounce than tri-flow and other similar products. I use a drip bottle most of the time, but I have a spray can for when the drip just doesn't work.

tjmaxx

Thanks for the help!

madpogue 

Don't use miles as a chain replacement determinant; use wear. At about 800-1000 miles, measure it. Measure twelve full links, pin-center to pin-center. A brand new chain will measure exactly twelve inches. If you get 1/16" or more of "stretch" (it's actually wear) over 12 inches, it's time to replace it. Check it again every 800 or so miles. It could be that worn at 800-1000 miles, or it may go thousands of miles before wearing to this point. The more promptly you keep to this chain replacement schedule, the longer the rest of the driveline (chainrings, cogs, pulleys) will last.

Daily Commute

P.S. Two more things I liked about Baer: 1) They didn't treat me like an idiot, even when I really was. 2) They sometimes talk me down from higher-end products to less expensive products when the extra money won't get me extra value.

One thing I like about Bike Source: they are a small chain, so if one local store doesn't have something in stock, they can check their computer to see if another store does. One thing I don't like about Bike Source, it's a chain, so it's less personal.

But you should try the LBS's closest to where you live. See who treats you the best and go back there. Except for an occasional sale, the prices will be the same pretty much everywhere in town.

tjmaxx

Well, I was going to the one at Hilliard Rome Road and Fedder/Fisher (whichever one is on the south side of I70...I forget)...Jeff's Bike shop or something like that. The guy was REALLY nice and took time explaining things to me and answering my questions. But, they just went out of business :^(

That got me looking. I hadn't noticed any others within 2-3 miles of where I lived, so I thought I would ask (I'd rather drive somewhere now and get good help/service than get taken advantage of since I am still learning).

jszymczak

Amen to this! I really like Baer Wheels... !

operator

Don't use wd-40 to lube your chain, a huge ass bottle of tri-flow can be had for only $7.50 at MEC.

elbows

If, like me, you are incapable of accurately measuring your chain with a ruler, you can do this instead:

Have your LBS measure your chain until it's worn out. Save the old chain and hang it from a nail. Whenever you take your new chain off to clean it, hang it on the nail next to the old one and compare the lengths.

This only works if you remove your chain to clean it, which brings me to my second piece of advice: get an SRAM chain (or a powerlink for your non-SRAM chain). It will save you lots of time and mess over cleaning the chain on the bike, and is especially nice in the winter, when chains seem to need cleaning daily.

Also, keep a spare powerlink handy in case you drop the original link on the floor and lose it

operator

Removing a chain to clean it is counterproductive. Get a chain cleaner.

dee-vee

Ive been meaning to get a chain cleaner. What one is the best? Seems like the pedros one has the most brushes, but the park one has replacable brushes.

jnbacon

The Finishline gets good reviews (ease of use, cleans as well as Park), though I haven't tried it. It's on sale for $16 (plus shipping) at Supergo.

KleinRider

not if you have a chain with a "masterlink" in it.

I don't, so I use the Park chain cleaner. Any of the "big" brands will probably be fine.

solo

I've been using the Finish Line cleaner for about four years (only type I've owned). It does a good job of cleaning the chain on the bike, has replaceable brushes, and is frugal with degreaser. A 20oz bottle of EcoTech has lasted about 18 months with weekly cleaning. Mine has developed a minor leak in one corner, but it's just a few drops in the five minutes it takes to do the job.
Keeping the chain clean and lubricated and the tires inflated are the two most important things you can do to keep your bike in good working order and your riding fun.

slvoid

Kevlar does something but not much, cause if a piece of glass is sharp enough to go INTO the rubber, then it'll stay in there and slowly saw it's way through the kevlar.
I like the specialized armadillo's cause they seem to have a much harder rubber thread to stop stuff from getting in.

slvoid

I wouldn't worry about it. I clean my chain once very 200 miles or so or if it's real black and cruddy and relube.
Get some specialized hemisphere's, they're 2.6x1.95 semislicks. If the roads are smooth, get some specialized 26x1.5 nimbus tires, they're a little thinner but both would have you riding pretty comfy at 70-80psi and roll a lot easier.
If you're in a dry/semi rainy place, teflon dry works fine, otherwise if it's raining a lot, get some wet lube, but be warned those attract and form a lot of crud.

Anyway, here's what my bike looks like after the last winter storm. It's got a nice crusty layer of sand/mud/grit/grease/SALT. I took the pics before I wiped it down and cleaned it. Both hubs seem pretty good, the BB is good, I took the chain off and spun the cranks, spins smooth. Bike has about 5000 miles on it through rain/sleet/sand/salt, crashed about 8 times, wrecked bad twice. Never done an overhaul or maintained it other than replaced the rear derailleur after a few crashes.

DeafLamb

I live at the Jersey Shore, about an hour or so by train from NYC. Isn't it great how all our bikes look the same color a couple of days after a good snow storm. Finally wiped my bike down yesterday. I went through about five rags. It's dirty again today.

Ray

jimhens714

So most important is congratulations on starting to commute! Keep it up and you won't weigh 230 for long.

Regarding your questions here's my observations (disclaimer...your own mileage may vary, etc.):
1)How many miles should I get out of my tires/chain/etc...?
I get about 2000 - 3000 miles out of a set of tires depending on tire hardness. When both tires are worn out I buy three. When the back wears out I put the third one on. By the time the second rear wears out the front is worn out also. Chains...I tend to get 3000 miles or so. I could probably squeeze a bit more out of them but I replace them before they get too worn. Saves cogs and chainrings that way.
2)What kind of preventative maintenance should I be doing to my bike?
Keep the chain clean. Keep the rim braking surfaces clean. Occasionally deglaze (sandpaper) the brake pads and look for embedded aluminum (from the rims) at the same time. I also lube the derailleur pivots and brake caliper pivots every 3 weeks or so with TriFlow.
3)I don't know squat about bike tires. Can someone suggest a good "road" tire for me?
I hear great things about Specialized Armadillos but have never used them. I don't like Continentals as they dry out too quickly and rot (one season in a hot garage and they're done). I also personally really like IRC Road Winner Duro II's. These are a great tire at a bargain price at Nashbar.
4)Anyone out there in Columbus OH and know of a reliable bike shop?
I live in California...can't help here.
5)What should I use to lube my chain?
Pedro's Road Rage! I used to use White Lightning but it has a lot of buildup and really isn't that effective as a lubricant. I also used to use TriFlow but it is a bit light for wet conditions. Road Rage is an oil and it is a bit heavier than TriFlow. I've been using it for about 6 months now and I'm really happy with it. Don't use WD-40 as a lubricant! It is a great cleaning solvent but a lousy lubricant.

DogBoy

2,5) Preventative maintenence: Put fenders on your bike. It helps keep a great deal of grit/grime/road slush off your frame. Aside from keeping the drivetrain clean/lubed, all I do is an "annual" tune-up that I let the bike shop do. For lube, if you ride in rain/slush etc., use a "wet" lube. Its thicker and works longer. The downside is it collects dirt better too, and can get gummy if you don't wipe off the excess. I use finish line cross country and have had no drivetrain problems on any of my bikes over the 3-4000 miles since I started using it. (although that's really not a good indication of its viability since that's not very far). Don't use WD-40 or you will get a lecture..as you've already seen. Someone keeps reminding people that WD-40 is not a lube, but a "W"ater "D"isplacement agent. Anyway, if you hear your drivetrain grinding away, its time to clean/lube. I find that bi/weekly + after storms works fine.

1,3)Mileage on the wear items depends on your riding conditions. On a road-bike only used in dry conditions, you can get 5000-6000 miles out of a cassette. On a mtn bike ridden in muddy/sandy conditions, I wouldn't expect much mileage. I don't bother measuring the chain, I just replace the chain every 1500 miles or so. Its cheap, and I can never measure the chain accurately anyway. Tires depend on the tread compound. Softer compounds = fewer miles but more "stick" for corners. I use armadillos and like them for flat prevention on my road-bike, but my hybrid uses 700-38s, and I've never had a problem with cheaper tires because of the thicker rubber. Watch the road and if you go through crap regularly, check the tires for glass chips, and pull them out of the tire if you see them. I suggest you get one set of slick-semi-slick tires and one set of knobbies. For slicks, I like the specialized armadillo nimbus. Hemespheres get many recomendations too, but have a little more tread/rolling resistance than the nimbus.

After you find a bike-shop, see if they have seminars on bike maintenence and goto them. Otherwise, hang out by the repair area and ask questions.