mjschof

Been lurking for a while, first post. I'm getting back into cycling for the first time since growing up to get fit again as I round 30. I've been riding my Target mountain bike 12 miles to work along Seattle's awesome Burke-Gillman trail, and am going to ride the 200 mile Seattle-to-Portland classic in a few months. Anyway, I decided to get a roadier bike that suits the commuting mission better, almost went the conventional road bike route, and then discovered Rivendell and Grant's writing, and realized it all resonated with me. Upright, steel, comfort, etc. Kool-aid drunken.

So, not willing to drop thousands on the sport this quickly, I found this touring bike on sale at Performance's as their deal-of-the-day last week for $500: https://www.schwinnbike.com/kor/eng/P...World-Tour-DLX (geometry's there too). Because they didn't have them in the store, I'd need to order it to try it out. So, I looked up a bunch of other bikes' geometries that were close but probably not close enough, and test rode a few of them. After pouring over the numbers, I think I'll probably be smack between the S(48) and the M(52) size. I note that the top tube lengths are a little longer than other comparable bikes of the same size. I went with the M, following Grant's opinion that most people ride bikes that are too small for them. One benefit of buying from Performance is that they're totally cool with swapping and ordering another size if I need to (or even returning it outright), but since it's a closeout that may not be an option in a few weeks, so I'm hoping I've gotten it right the first time.

I'm thinking the reach out of the box might be a touch long, which I can fix with a shorter stem. I'm hoping that even if I have to go real short on the stem, I'll probably not suffer too much twitchiness since the fork is raked out.

Some of my self-measured dimensions are below. Anyone have an opinion on whether or not I've guessed right on the size?

Inseam: 31
Trunk: 24.5
Forearm: 13
Arm: 24.5
Thigh: 23
Lower Leg: 20.5
Sternal Notch: 52.5
Total Body Height: 65.5


Thanks!

Mike

Kojak

For 500 clams, seems like you can hardly go wrong. Have fun on STP, but be very careful for the 1st 30-50 miles. There are a lot of riders crammed into very little real estate. Some think it's a race, some think that they're the only one on the road and ride accordingly. Once it stretches out a bit, all is good. The times I've done it, my preference is to get going as early as possible to minimize the potential for being in huge waves of cyclists. I imagine the same thing can be acheived by leaving later in the morning as well, but I've always done the one day ride and leaving late is a bad option.

woodenidol

What about the Fuji Newest bikes, or the Scattante 360 road bike. I like Schwinn myself, but I thought the World was pretty heavy. The Scattante cross bike is a pretty nice commuter too.

I know what you are saying about the relaxed geometry and dont think you need a race bike, but you might find the World a bit too relaxed.

CliftonGK1

Agreed. The Sm and Med frames have really steep seat angles and really slack head angles. This is going to put more weight on your butt, rather than allowing you to distribute it over your butt, feet and hands as you should (especially for long distance riding.) That 76 or 75 degree seat angle will also put an odd strain on your legs by having you so far forward over the cranks, unlike a more traditional 72 or 73 degree "road sport" or "sport touring" geometry.

Woodenidol has the right idea with looking at the Fuji Newest and the Scattante bikes if Performance is your shop choice. The geometry on those bikes is still laid back, but the handling and overall ride won't feel quite so much like driving your grandparent's 1970s Oldsmobile.

stringbreaker

How about this? No I'm not a bikes direct shill but I am gonna order one of these. https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/tourist.htm

mjschof

Interesting thoughts on the seat and head tube angles. I'll keep that weight distribution in mind as I figure out whether I'm keeping it. Admittedly, being new to road bikes and analyzing geometry, I didn't pay too much attention to those two measurements or even notice that they were that far off. I was instead focusing on comparing seat tubes and top tubes against other bikes that I had the ability to sit on and ride.

Being new to road biking (and coming from an Target Mountain bike), what percentage of my weight should I expect to be putting on my hands? And would scooting the seat back help with the crank alignment (presumably with a shorter stem if it's moving me back). Or am I just fighting the wrong battle if I need to go through all that?

The Fuji Newest and Scattantes were two that I was considering at first, and we'll see - perhaps where I end up if the geometry on the World Tour ends up being too relaxed.

The Windsor was also in consideration until I found the World Tour. It looks like an excellent value in a touring bike, though it looks like it's a bit of a craps shoot getting any warranty or shipping issues sorted out. Though Performance isn't an IBS, at least they're local to me and have good return/adjustment policies. In truth, no matter what I get, I'm probably going to bring it over to a local shop in Woodinville to get dialed in. I didn't love their selection of bikes, but one of the guys there is super-passionate about fit.

CliftonGK1

I'm going to guess that you talked to Big-D (Darren) over at Woodinville Bicycle. They're a smaller shop so they do have a limited selection of bikes on the floor, particularly in the intro-intermediate range, but they are way keen on bike fitting and really know their stuff when it comes to wrenching.

CliftonGK1

I think it's funny how among certain forums, BD got a bad rap and now everyone prefaces any BD suggestion with "I'm not a shill, but..."
That said, I'm also considering a BD bike in the future. I wouldn't mind setting up a Motobecane Immortal frame as a fast rando bike for 200 and 300k rides.

mjschof

Yep! We've chatted a bit - he seems to really understand his stuff, doesn't seem too taken with any one fit kit, and actually encouraged me to look used/other stores. I'm guessing margins on new bikes are low?

The thing that really makes me want to support them though, is that on day one of commuting home from Woodinville-Lake City in Feb, I left work a bit late and headed out with just a Petzl LED hiking headlamp sub-optimally rigged onto my helmet. So I decided to stop by and pick up a tail light on my way out, but he wouldn't let me buy one: "Oh, you should just get home before it gets completely dark. Here, my back is injured, take MY PERSONAL headlight/tail-light. See you in a few days!"

stringbreaker

I've read threads where the mere mention of BD got you just ripped so I always put that little disclaimer in there just to be safe.

mjschof

There were a couple of other things that pushed me towards that Schwinn, by the way. One was the included fenders and rack. Another was the half (spd-compatible, I think) and half (flat, with removable basket) pedals. Another $100+ that would be saved by not having to buy those accessories. In any case, now I'm reading about seat tube angles, stressing about the fit, etc etc. I'm only 5'6", so if I need to pull the saddle back too much, the reach may get too much for me, even with a shorter stem (I was thinking I might need a shorter one anyway). Bike should be ready for pickup in the next couple of days - I'll be sure to report back what I figure out.