Bean busy in the workshop...
 

The flat bar with extensions hasn't been doin' it for me lately.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...S/DSCI1651.jpg

It was time to try something new. So I put some ergo drops on my commuter with Tektro brake levers and Suntour barcon shifters. Got the workings done tonight; still have the bar tape to do.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...S/DSCI2024.jpg

I plan to use natural-colored cork tape on the bars.

I did the same thing last year. I decided to put drop bars on two of my mountain bikes.
Now after riding it for few months I realize it was the best thing that I've done to my bikes and I regret for not doing it long time ago. Before I decided to put drop bars I was a little bit skeptical and afraid on how it would handle especially in winter when there is snow... but all my fears were for nothing.. My commuter bikes are also used for long distance recreational rides and some singletrack riding. I find drop bars to be extremely comfortable, much better then anything else I tried before. I get very good control in snow and offroad. What I really like about it, is when I commute on windy days, riding in the drops makes a big difference when I have a strong headwind.
My drops are mounted high , the steer tube on my fork is uncut and I also use a high rise stem, this set up works very well for me. Riding in traffic with my hands on the hoods gives me a more upright position so I can see in front of me... and I can still take advantage of the drops when it's windy. I am very happy with my set up.

If you friction shift you can run the gear cables under the tape like the aero brake cables. It looks much cleaner than the "flying whiskers" style routing almost everyone assumes you have to use with bar end shifters.

You had the bar ends too low IMHO, they should be at around 45 degrees or something like that. That's what works for me.

Every one is different. I run my bar ends almost flat. Kind of the same position as riding ton the hoods on a drop bar.

Doohickie what bike is that?

I did too until, like the OP, I realized that what I really wanted was drop bars.

Doohickie:

You may want to run without bar tape, or with cheap bar tape until you figure out where you want the brake levers. Especially since you also replaced that riser quill stem with the threadless adaptor and stem. That's a lot of changes to adjust to. It's a little easier if you don't have to worry about ruining nice bar tape while you get everything dialed-in.

Actually I think my stem was too high which, when I put my bar ends at a "fashionable" 45 degrees didn't work at all.

It's a 1994 Nishiki Sport XRS. Made in Kent, Washington, at the Raleigh plant, so if you want to find something similar, look for a mid-90s Nishiki, Raleigh or Univega hybrid.

My plan exactly. I have some old pre-used black stuff that I will put on for the time being. I may leave it on as an underlay when I put on the natural cork I got for this project.

I ended up re-using cables and housings and didn't have enough length to run them under the tape. If I get new cables (like I originally planned), I may do that.

One thing that surprised me was the total cable travel for my triple in the front was a lot longer than for the 7 speeds in the back.

I asked because it looked like the Giant Fandango (thats so fun to say) hybrid I found for a college student recently. Its probably from about the same year as yours. Part of the reason she likes it is because its purple. =) That will be a nice looking bike (well it was before too) I wish I had never sold my Suntour bar end shifters.

Maiden ride around the block: Awesome.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...S/DSCI2025.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...h_DSCI2026.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...h_DSCI2029.jpg http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...h_DSCI2027.jpg

[QUOTE=tsl;12185812]I did too until, like the OP, I realized that what I really wanted was drop bars.

Exactly!