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Steel MTB Build: What $$$ did you sink into yours??

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Steel MTB Build: What $$$ did you sink into yours??

Old 02-09-11, 09:43 PM
  #26  
tjspiel
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Originally Posted by Fizzaly View Post
How wide a tire can you go on that project 3
The stock tires were 45mm. 2.1" will NOT fit. I know of somebody who tried. Just wasn't quite enough clearance. A 50mm Schwalbe Big Apple should fit but I doubt you could squeeze them under fenders.
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Old 02-09-11, 09:52 PM
  #27  
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Shoot I can't even fit a modern 2.1 on the kuwie, my giant will barely take em. I like the geometry on that project 3 though, looks comfy and quick
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Old 02-09-11, 11:13 PM
  #28  
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mid 80s stumpjumper. Let's see what I've done...

Pedals
h-bars
stem
shifters
rear der
freewheel
tires
reflector tape stuck everywhere!
bell
lights

I'll guess about $350 maybe a bit less, I got a couple of good craigslist buys.
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Old 02-09-11, 11:20 PM
  #29  
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for a commuter, crappy old paint attrects less unwanted attention when it's locked up somewhere.
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Old 02-09-11, 11:52 PM
  #30  
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I might wait to get it powdercoated. You might find you like the vintage look. As far as I know powdercoating isn't cheap, but of course its your money and your bike. Have fun. =)
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Old 02-10-11, 01:00 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Chris_in_Miami View Post
Love the fenders. I have them on my touring bike. VO
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Old 02-10-11, 01:24 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Henry III View Post
That Rockhopper looks really nice. Just don't forget about sizing and spacing with an older frame. New wheels won't fit unless you stretch the rearend.
Unless you build the wheels with road hubs, which is what I did.
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Old 02-10-11, 02:44 PM
  #33  
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I got my bike's frame in the trash, no kidding. It's a size too small, but fine for commuting. Heck, I use it for everything.

I'm about to overhaul the bike, which means a spare set of wheels, rigid fork, few bits and pieces. I got a lot of stuff second hand for free, but if I were going to build one now, it would look something like this:
Frame/crank/seatpost/bb: free
wheels: $100 (Nashbar has a nice set on sale right now for $80, plus a cassette)
Kenda Kwest tires, found a place that sells a pair for $35
$25 plastic fenders
lights were around $50
saddlebags got on sale for $25
$15 saddle
nashbar trekking bars, got 'em free but they're only $20 new
nashbar rigid fork, was $58 shipped
assorted spacers, stem, etc. would run you $25
shifters, derailers, etc. I stripped off a wal-mart Schwinn, but it's all cheap Tourney or Alivio parts... not worth more than $50 all together.
pedals are cheap cages with toe clips and straps.

I actually put about $350 into it, total, including the donor WM bike. If I were going to build one now, I probably would budget $500 or so to buy everything new. That's about where I will be when I finish overhauling it.

(EDIT: Duh, forgot the requisite pic.)

Last edited by FunkyStickman; 02-10-11 at 02:48 PM.
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Old 02-10-11, 07:44 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by kralizec View Post
Love the fenders. I have them on my touring bike. VO
I love them too, but I'm probably going to swap them over to my tandem and go back to cheap plastic. I commute on this bike and I'll worry about locking it up a bit less if it's not too flashy...
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Old 02-12-11, 08:42 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets View Post
Which model Mongoose is it? What's wrong with the parts? Got any pics?
Nothing really wrong... just old and rusted. My parents had an old steel Schwinn MTB and this Mongoose. They are giving me both to look at and evaluate. One I want to turn into a SS "adult BMX" bike to knock around on, the other a commuter.
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Old 02-12-11, 08:47 AM
  #36  
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Thanks for the replies and the pics. This is very helpful.
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Old 02-12-11, 11:24 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Steely Dan View Post
as i have changed my old mid-90s raleigh mountain bike into an urban commuter, here's what i've spent so far on parts:

new pedals: $50
new rigid fork: $60
new crankset: $75
new wheelset: $100
new head set: $50
new saddle & seatpost: $65
new bull horn bars: $60
new stem: $50
new brake levers: $30
new shifters: $40
new cables & housing: $20

TOTAL: ~$600


now, that wasn't all at one time, as i've been tinkering around with things here and there for over a year, but i think i'm more or less "done" for now. also, i didn't include the cost of things like new tires, chain, cassette, or brake pads because those are more regular "wear & tear" items that have to replaced frequently anyway. i'm also not including any other add-ons like lights, bottles cages, other superfluous stuff.
I probably spent something close to that on my Hardrock over the past 6 years, replacing stuff that wore out with better parts that suited my needs better. I knew when I bought my bike it wasn't going to look the same later, but didn't know what it would look like then because bicycling was new to me then.
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Old 02-13-11, 01:17 AM
  #38  
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I spent about $800 on this (rack, lights, and panniers not in pics) :



Parts List :
  • Handle Bar and Stem - $24.50
  • Crank/Rings/BB - $26.45
  • Pedals - $21.20
  • Front Derail - $20.75
  • Rear Derail. (Already Had) - $0
  • XTR V-brakes - $85.50
  • Brake Noodle and Boot - $7.00
  • Mavic Crossmax Wheelset - $170.00
  • cables - $20.00
  • Tires (Already had) - $0
  • Cassette (Already had) - $0
  • Lights - $30.00
  • Pump - $13.00
  • Seat - $25.00
  • Rack - $22.00
  • Ortlieb Back Rollers $165.00
  • XTR Levers/shifters $134.00
  • Chain/Spacer/Protector - $35.00

It was all nice and shiny. Now it has had about 6500 miles put on it, gone through 5 chains or so, and needs the cable housing on the rear dérailleur replaced. It still shifts and rids great though. I also have gone through 1 front tire and 2 rear tires, and the current rear is going to replaced soon. The rim also cracked on the rear Crossmax wheel, so that was replaced with a stronger wheel. The new stronger wheel had one spoke break, which has been replaced. The shifter/brakes parts are all old XTR stuff, which really holds up well to street riding, it was well worth the money! Also, I didn't need to replace the cranks and chain rings (the old BB was shot though), but I wanted road gearing, so I put a road triple up front.

Last edited by daaxix; 02-13-11 at 01:26 AM.
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Old 02-13-11, 10:09 AM
  #39  
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I bought this '96 Diamondback Topanga off of Craigslist last year for something like $40.00 or $50.00. I already had the fenders and rear rack. All I really needed to get started was:

1. Some fresh inner tubes (I never use old used tubes)
2. A pair of Serfas Drifter tires to replace the knobby MTB tires
3. Tire pump
4. Bottle cages
5. Lights
6. Mirror

The total cost of the rebuild was less than $150.00. After about 200 miles, the rear wheel bearings bit the dust. The wheel was in bad enough shape that I completely replaced it. I also added some Power Grips pedal straps. I fully expect to have to replace the chain this spring.


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Old 02-13-11, 10:26 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Buzzbait View Post
I bought this '96 Diamondback Topanga off of Craigslist last year for something like $40.00 or $50.00. I already had the fenders and rear rack. All I really needed to get started was:

1. Some fresh inner tubes (I never use old used tubes)
2. A pair of Serfas Drifter tires to replace the knobby MTB tires
3. Tire pump
4. Bottle cages
5. Lights
6. Mirror

The total cost of the rebuild was less than $150.00. After about 200 miles, the rear wheel bearings bit the dust. The wheel was in bad enough shape that I completely replaced it. I also added some Power Grips pedal straps. I fully expect to have to replace the chain this spring.


I think you did a great job for what you have invested in the bike. That bike will give you many commuting miles. The color reminds me of my commuter and I might steal your idea for mounting the road morph under the top tube because as you can see right now I can only carry one water bottle...
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Old 02-13-11, 10:53 AM
  #41  
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I've done this a couple of times. One cost saver I've used is finding a high quality complete MTB on eBay or craigslist with an undesireable frame, (like odd size, ding) and cannibalize the parts (XT, etc.). You can end up with a good drivetrain, rims, brakes, etc. for very little $. Obviously, you have to be pretty smart about the purchases, i.e. crank length, wear, age, compatibility and variety of factors can make the purchase less attractive than just ordering new parts. But I'm patient and I enjoy the effort, a couple of my builds look like I spent $1000 more than I did.
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Old 02-14-11, 02:51 PM
  #42  
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These replies are great so far. I am bringing the two frames home this weekend (my parents have them stored in their barn). I am kinda anxious to get started on them.
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