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Topeak Super Tourist DX disc vs Non disc

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Topeak Super Tourist DX disc vs Non disc

Old 02-12-11, 01:25 PM
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FidelCastrovich
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Topeak Super Tourist DX disc vs Non disc

Hello all,

I ordered the non disc version of the Super Tourist DX, but received the disc version. I understand it's a common mistake with online orders.

Given the fact that good quality racks are hard to come by where I live and the fact that ordering a Tubus or Old Man Mountain rack involves paying around $100 shipping -

Do you think I'd be okay keeping the disc on a bike that has rim brakes?
I haven't checked if it fits or not, but are there other considerations? The one thing I can think of, is that the extra weld for the disc mount probably doesn't add to the strength of the rack.
Am i wrong?

The rack is to be mounted on my wife's KHS Urban Xpress and used for commuting and the occasional tour.

Thanks,
Emil.
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Old 02-12-11, 02:19 PM
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irclean
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Funny... I had the same thing happen to me, but the other way around; I received the non-disc rack when I ordered the disc version. The online company sent me the right one for half price (plus paid for shipping) and I kept the first rack for one of my other bikes. I say keep it; I don't see any harm in using it on a rim-braked bike. Also, you may just buy a disc-braked bike someday and find yourself needing that rack.
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Old 02-12-11, 06:49 PM
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marmot
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I like the look of the disc version, and would probably prefer it even if I didn't have discs, just for the extra clearance between panniers and spokes. My panniers don't sag or bulge, but lots of older ones do. I just put my old non-disc rack on my new disc-equipped bike and added a couple of spacers from the bike shop to clear the brakes. Works fine, but I'd prefer the Topeak, especially for the second side tube. I'd keep it if I were you.
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Old 02-15-11, 08:03 AM
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I have the disc version, and for the last year I had it switched over to a non-disc bike with no problems. There is no mechanical reason it cannot be fitted to any bike. It is back on my bike with discs now, but that is just because of my needs, it worked like a charm on my non-disc bike.

I will agree with marmot too, I like the spacing on the disc model. It is a minor thing, but it does feel safer if you are carrying a bag on the side that does not hold its shape well.

As far as strength. You might be right, but I would guess it is a minor concern. Your screws are probably just as likely to break as those welds are. I have had no problems with the rack, but I don't think I have ever carried more than 40 lbs on it, and never that much for an extended period. I would say its not worth the effort and cost of an exchange.
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Old 02-15-11, 08:54 AM
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if it bothers you much you could cut them down so the post only sticks out 3/16" or so. If the eyelet it is attaching to is only brazed on one edge and you're carrying lots of weight I'd be inclined to cut them down. If the eyelet is simply a hole drilled in a fat/wide dropout it probably wouldn't matter. Googling around I think you'll find a photo of a Kona Sutra(?) where the eyelet broke off from a cantilevered disc rack and the eyelet is just a nib attached on one edge. I wouldn't be bothered that the rack will have to bend in on installation but double check with it as it is if you decide to cut it down. I've installed racks where they had to bend in 1/2" on either side and it wasn't a big deal. Google around on BF for the picture of the fellows bike with the broken eyelet and decide if yours is of similar construction.
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Old 02-15-11, 09:22 AM
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AdamDZ
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The disc version will fit on any bike. The only difference is that it's wider and has "standoff" mounts to allow for disc caliper clearance. You shouldn't have any issues with it at all. It's definitely not worth the hassle and the cost of return or exchange. The "extra weld" or standoff might indeed be weaker but I'd say that's a negligible. I toured with this rack carrying like 40lbs and my Kona Sutra frame mount broke off from the weight and the rack didn't even break a sweat. I also have one on my commuter and, several times, I carried two panniers and a crate full of groceries over pothole filled NYC streets and the rack didn't give up. It was so heavy the bike was hard to control and I was literally waiting for the rack to fail any moment. Didn't happen. No worries.
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Old 02-18-11, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by LeeG View Post
if it bothers you much you could cut them down so the post only sticks out 3/16" or so. If the eyelet it is attaching to is only brazed on one edge and you're carrying lots of weight I'd be inclined to cut them down. If the eyelet is simply a hole drilled in a fat/wide dropout it probably wouldn't matter. Googling around I think you'll find a photo of a Kona Sutra(?) where the eyelet broke off from a cantilevered disc rack and the eyelet is just a nib attached on one edge. I wouldn't be bothered that the rack will have to bend in on installation but double check with it as it is if you decide to cut it down. I've installed racks where they had to bend in 1/2" on either side and it wasn't a big deal. Google around on BF for the picture of the fellows bike with the broken eyelet and decide if yours is of similar construction.
Don't blame the rack (or the bike) for that. Those guys took the standard disc-ready rack off the bike and replaced it with a Tubus that they thought would be stronger. Unfortunately, they used a stack of spacers to clear the discs, greatly increasing the torque on the eyelet. Kona has since relocated the brake and apparently improved the eyelet setup, but this anecdote really has nothing to do with this Topeak rack.
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