replacement for rigid MTB
 

So I have this old rigid MTB from 1999 that I commute on, and I am not sure how much longer it will last me. Looking around at new bikes, I have a really hard time finding an equivalent. I ride on 26x1.75 Panaracer and really like that set-up, also I have 26s studded tires, so I like to have 26 wheel size.
Most new bikes that are somewhat similar to my old one come with 700s wheels, which would mean I couldn't use the studded tires. Besides that the 1.75 width is hard to come by on 700 tires.

Modern MTB seem to come all with front suspension, which I don't really care for.

With my old bike, I am just waiting for my frame to break, and I guess that would be that.

I have a back-up bike with 700x35 tires and on the roads I use, the ride is just really harsh.

Any ideas?

If you're really scared about the frame breaking, you can get a Nashbar MTB frame for $100 and swap all the parts over.

What makes you think the frame will just break? If it's cro-moly steel, it should outlast you if it's not abused.

Surly LHT with 26" wheels.

I understand your dilemma as I am in the same boat as you. I really want a shiny new bike, but am trying to save money, so have decided to stay with what I have. You probably don't have to worry about your MTB if it is steel and doesn't have any structural damage. Chipped-up, scratched, and worn is okay, but frame cracks are not. If I was you, I would keep on with what you have as long as it fits and ride it until it DOES break. My '95 Hard Rock looks like a pile of poo, but is solid and comfortable. Character marks make it less tempting for thieves. Of course, TMMV.

Two months ago my LBS told me that my front wheel was shot, they couldn't true it properly and recommended a new one. Yesterday the axel on my rear wheel broke. (like I said, it's an old bike). Now I am scared

Admit it, you're getting new bikeitus, which we all get eventually. If you're looking for another rigid MTB, you will find them on the low end of most companies. . Or go to a pawn shop for a used ride, they're cheap there.

Why not get a new Wheelset. MTB wheelsets are cheap especially over mail order. 26" wheelsets cost anywhere from 100 dollars on up, cheaper at closeout sales. Or you could go to a pawn shop and get a 40 dollar used ride and take the wheels of that.

Definitely, worn out wheels do NOT mean the bike is about to fall apart. I just bought a set of Vuelta 26" Aerolite wheels for $65 on sale.

Time for new wheels!!!!

Old steel mountain bikes never die. They just just look like they did. :lol:

Thanks guys, that makes me feel better. Just got a call from the LBS, new axle is $10 for the rear wheel.
I just don't find anything that would fit the bill from the selection of new bikes (and you all know how particular we get after commuting for a while).

Yep, your frame should be fine. Components are meant to be replaced regularly, an mtb frame used solely for commuting could last forever. I used to work at an LBS, and we were told to steer people with old bikes that needed new components towards buying new bikes. Yes, initially it may work out cheaper for you the customer, but only if you buy a bottom of the barrel bike with crap low level components, that will also most likely also need to be replaced in a couple years. Hopefully you have an honest LBS that likes keeping old bikes on the road. If you feel like they're pressuring you to buy a new bike, find a new LBS.

If your commute is short and not hilly, you might want to convert your bike to a single speed, then it will be practically indestructable and very low maintainence. It's very easy to do yourself, slightly more difficult than changing a flat.

I just saw your most recent post, it sounds like your lbs is a good one.

I gotta agree with the others, just get a new wheelset, not a new bike. i got some vuelta zerolites for $100 bucks (shipping included) off the internet, and they are perfomring great on my old steel workhorse mountain bike.

In your area you shoudl be able to find a bike coop or something to get cheap used stuff if you want to keep your bike on the road. There are new options out there like the Marin Muirwoods, but keeping your bike rolling along might be cheaper and more satifying. I agree those Vuelta Aerolite wheels seem like a heck of a value. I bought a set a few months ago, but haven't put them on the mountain bike yet. I still have not read a bad review about them.

I pulled my current steel MTB commuter out of the trash, only thing I needed to replace on it was the bottom bracket and the fork. That plus wheels, and it'll last me just about forever. Unless you break the frame by hitting something, that sucker should be bomb-proof. Click the link in my sig to see what mine looks like after I set it up for commuting.

I'd probably cruise craigslist for a compatible bike. When you have a second nearly identical bike you should always have one ready to ride. It allows you to take a week or two to make repairs on one while still rolling the other. You can have one with slicks and one with semis or knobblies on also.

I got my 1999 Trek outta the trash too. I'm not overly afraid of frame failure, even though the seattube's been compromised a bit from clamping around a too-small seatpost. Besides that, all she needed was hub repacks, decent pedals, rear brake and a front shifter.

So what's your current ride?

that's not old... I am still riding an 80's Stumpjumper, Salvaged frame ,
all substituted components.
:50:

I agree with the others about getting a new wheelset. Otherwise if you want to replace the whole bike i'm sure you'll be able to find something in Chicago.

My 1997 Homegrown aluminum has about 20,000 on it and still going. Only original parts are the handlebar, stem, headset and front hub (second rim). Certainly, I would expect a steel frame to last longer, unless stored in salt water. My motto is always to use what's available and only buy new when you really can't find an alternative and then only buy a replacement for the worn out part.

On another note, just picked up an old Specialized HardRock with the same kind of steel frame you have. Looking forward to putting it into service when I retire to Haiti -- I bought the this type of bike because of its durability.

+1 on the Veulta wheelset. I just got a set from gNashbar for $56+ship. I'm going to put them on a steel 1996 Novara touring frame that will be my back-commuter bike.

If the steel frame you have is in good shape, just keep replacing parts as they wear out and it should be good to go for a long time.

[QUOTE=LesterOfPuppets;12434031] When you have a second nearly identical bike you should always have one ready to ride. It allows you to take a week or two to make repairs on one while still rolling the other. You can have one with slicks and one with semis or knobblies on also.
QUOTE]

I'm working on setting up a second commuter bike. My regular commuter is a 13.5" 1997 Novara Randonee tourer with 26" wheels. It's set up with flat bars, fenders, semi-knobby tires and racks f/r. I got a second frame identical to this one on ebay and I'm going to set it up with drop bars, STIs and road slick tires. All I have left to get for that build is a stem. :)

Never mind that my LHT and my Gunnar Sport are already back-up commuter bikes....

Just to fan the "newbikeitis" flames: 2011 Brodie Drifter

http://www.bikerumor.com/wp-content/...11-drifter.jpg

Double-butted chromoly frame, rigid fork, 26" wheels with 1.95" tires, hydraulic brakes, road gearing, and looks for miles. There are also 4 other bikes in the series with the same frame and different components.

+1

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4106/...7a955e1e_z.jpg

1989 Rockhopper
Deore M590 shifters
Deore XT M770 derailleurs
Ultegra 6500 9-speed 12-25 cassette
Mavic XM317 rims
Tiagra hubs
Avid SD5 brakes
Avid Speed Dial SL levers
Original crank and bottom bracket
Weight: about 25 pounds

Even counting the original cost of the parts that I moved over from other bikes, I think I've got around $600 in this. You can't beat that.

Also, I could be wrong, but I'm of the opinion that an old Rockhopper frame like this (which you can get for around $100 with its original components) is a better frame than the Nashbar (which, at $100, doesn't come with a fork). This is assuming, of course, that you can get past the ugly paint scheme. I just had my daughter's '93 Rockhopper powder coated, so that's an option if you can't.

YES!!!! That's it!!! Where do I send my check?

But seriously, I guess the consensus is to get new wheels, and that's what I did. Thanks again for the responses.

I"d say mine felt like a new bike after I changed the rear wheel, but it's been decades since I've had a new bike and don't remember the feeling. I bet you'll be happy when the switch is made.

can't believe the first response was NOT "Surly". took until #2

That was me. And you know what ... I don't even own a Surly. I commute on a 1996 rigid Trek 950 MTB and a 1983 Nishiki road bike. But it was an honest recommendation. I'd like to have one if I could justify it.

Sorry! I've actually thought about getting a 26" LHT and swapping my commuter parts over to it, but after a friend bought one, I'll stick with what I've got for now. It's not significantly better than a quality steel MTB frame, other than the braze-ons. Doesn't weigh any less, either!

I bought a set of the Vuelta Zerolites from Nashbar last year, also for $50ish plus shipping. I have about 600-700 miles on them so far and they have been very good. Not light, but a little lighter than the stock single walled rims that came off the bike, the hubs spin smooth enough and they have stayed straight and true. The sale price on them falls in a range from the low-mid $50 to about $85 range after discounts are applied.

fix the old wheels too and load'em up with your winter tires... and you're good to go. Won't even have to ride studded tires on good clear days!