slvoid

Fit it on the inside surface of the rim, between the spokes and brake surfaces.

HiYoSilver

Braking surface no problem. Disk brakes.

What do you mean by rims: the outer edge of the rims where rim brakes usually hit or on the inside of the rims inbetween the spokes?

Huff

John Ridley

Spring for the extra and get the charger that charges each cell individually. I used to have a "pair" charger from MAHA, bought the "4 single" charger from MAHA earlier this year. It's great not having to keep track of pairs of batteries, and when dealing with things that take an odd number of batteries.

It also has a "slow" setting that probably does more to extend the battery life than conditioning does.

Conditioning is much less important to NiMH than for NiCads. A friend who is a battery researcher (works for the guy who invented NiMH at Ovonics) says if you never condition a NiMH, you'll probably only lose max 5% of the battery life. The big thing is to NEVER NEVER run them completely dead. If you run a NiMH below 0.95 volts per cell, you cause serious damage.

slvoid

Inside between the spokes. Check on the commuter bikes thread for my post to see a picture of what it looks like on my specialized hardrock.

elbows

If you tape the sides of the rims (braking surface for rim brakes), then you get visibility from the side, and it makes the shape of the wheel stand out so people can identify you as a cyclist. Tires wi/ reflective sidewalls do the same thing.

Taping the inside of the rim, between the spokes, is less visible from the side, but can be seen from the front and back if the driver is approaching at a slight angle.

markw

Ok, and what about braking? Or does that just slow you down?

HiYoSilver

What a bizarre look when the bike is standing still. I thought you had taped all but the spoke holes, not put strips of reflective tape. I'm thinking of giving taping a shot and doing a before and after shots.

Huff

slvoid

https://www.niterider.com/products/bike_taillight.html

steveknight

they only work with the nightrider system. plus they are too expensive and no brighter then the new LED blinkies on the market.

slvoid

From 10 ft they're just as blinding as the new LD1000 blinker. From 250 ft, the difference can be seen. From 1000 ft, a regular blinker, even the LD1000 is just a pinpoint of light while the niterider's a huge spot.

Anyway I took some pics at work today from about 250 feet. The thing dangling off the left side of my handle bars is the planet bike 3-LED helmet blinker on solid. The sun-like glow's the 19-LED niterider.
It runs off an 8-AA battery pack with a 9V connector but I can also run it off a 9V battery. 24-hour battery life vs. 2-hour.

Ronocerous

The Cat Eye TL-LD1000 Rear Light...do they work ok in the rain/snow/cold?

Thanks

R

steveknight

no problem in the rain so far.
Most red blinkies are plenty bright for drivers to see. but the new cateye has far better side to side visibility then anything else.
but if you want really bright then get a liteman xenon flasher. blows everything out of the water. but only has about 5 hours runtime.
So I went to the new cateye and I have had no problems at all.

dab60

I think most commuters have their front and backs covered with adequate lighting. What concerns me is vehicles approaching from an angle or on the side. A commuter really neads active lighting for 360 degrees. The only spot that meets that requirement is the top of you helmet. I think a xenon stobe laid flat on the top of the helmet would provide the most protection.

steveknight

thats why cateye came out with the new light it has LEDS facing out the ends. a xenon light on the hlemet may be too high for some drivers to see. plus you don't want red flashing in front anyway.

dab60

My trunk bag would block any rear mounted light from being visible towards the front, and the xenon's come in amber.

HiYoSilver

Heres the best I have found for reflective tape:

reflective brightness explanation
https://www.reflectivelyyours.com/generic67.html

creative options: flames, stripes, jolly roger, usa, N) symbol
https://www.reflectivelyyours.com/generic37.html

best option 3 3/8"x22" black in day, white in night
https://www.reflectivelyyours.com/generic141.html

or for rims 2 3/8"x22" stealth black or
2 1/4"x22 white,red,blue, gold
https://www.reflectivelyyours.com/generic50.html

Huff

steveknight

it's best not to rely on just one light.

dab60

To clairify, The xenon strobe on the helmet is in addition to a front and rear light. The goal here is to prevent getting clipped from the side or an angle.

steveknight

I would feel a bit wierd with a flashing light on top of my head (G) a couple of those strap on blinkies on the sides of the bike would work.

RonH

Nothing fancy here. Just two Vistalite 5 LED lights. The light with the clear lens is a strobe light. When I have it on the bike I usually put the amber lens on it.

froze

My whole entire bike's lighting system cost $100.

The handlebar lights you showed are effective as long as the bars point straight back and not tilted down toward the rear derailleur as some bikes are set up. I have those same type of lights in my bars and they work quite well except I paid $20!

The rear light you showed I have yet to see at a LBS to see how bright they are. BUT I do have the Cateye LD600 with 5 LED's and that thing is blindly bright, but I only paid $20. I cannot see spending $35 for the Cateye your looking at would be all that more effective then the LD600. Also keep in mind that new Cateye will eat batteries faster then the older LD600.

I also have a dual beam headlight Cygolite Metro that puts out 12.5 watts total and that thing cost me $48; plus I have a Cateye Xenon amber flasher in the front that cost $12. Total lighting package $100.

I do have leg band reflectors on both legs, reflector tape on the helmet, and a reflective band that came on seatbag.

ollo_ollo

It would also be a good idea to add a reflective vest & some reflective ankle bands.

steveknight

The bar end lights are good if you are not wider then your bars (G)
The new cateye goes up to 100 hours runtime the 600 goes about 30 plus the new one has leds in the ends so it has 180 degree visibility. LEDS have pretty poor side visibility they only go about 15 degrees. This is why I chose it. I have the best rear light a liteman xenon flasher. It actually puts out light. And it has 180 visibilities. But it eats up batteries in 5 hours or less so I chose the new cateye.
The headlight is not bad but you have to buy batteries or rechargeables.
I got a bit carried away on my headlight. It’s not too expensive to play with home made stuff. https://www.bulbsource.net/ gives you a huge choice on lighting at dirt cheap prices.
I ran a few bulbs in the mr11 size and mr16. I played with them at regular voltage and overvolted up to 16v. Right now I run an mr16 solux 4700k bulb. It is a bit much at 35 watts but man does it put out the light. I can light a whole lane and three others with less light. It’s more then I need but I like the beam pattern that I can’t find in a 20 watt bulb.
So right now I have the new cateye on back on a post (for my bent) and on the front of the post a sparky xenon flasher (a cool little guy that gives you three color choices in a small package) and my headlight. The bike has reflective strips on it and soon my black helmet will have black reflective tape (G)

sggoodri

I use one or more rear automotive reflectors in addition to a rear blinky for rear visibility. I've had a few blinkies fail on me; I depend on the reflectors as backup and to provide more points of reference to drivers. (A couple blinky brackets broke off the bike when I hit potholes; another popped its cover and spewed its batteries on the road.) Note that I use automotive reflectors, not bike reflectors; most rear bike reflectors are way too small and dim, only about 20% as bright as an amber automotive reflector. My two commuter bikes have one amber reflectors and one red reflector on the back of the trunk rack. A red blinkie is attached to the trunk rack as well.

I've done some experiments with visibility to overtaking drivers; under car headlamps at medium to short distance the automotive reflectors are at least as bright as the blinky. The blinky is more noticeable at very long distances or at an angle. My best blinky is a Nite Rider tail lamp.

Pedal reflectors are also pretty bright. I use reflective dots on the back of my SPD-equipped shoes. I've also put reflective tape on the back of some of my helmets; this is quite visible at a distance.

-Steve Goodridge

steveknight

lots of reflectors help but the tape is pretty practial over hard reflectors.