Best locks?
 

More-better, what set ups are you-s guys using? I've got a new 2010 Marin coming next week. I'm not to worried about it at work, I can keep it in the building. My concern is more when I use it for running to the store for a loaf of milk. Chains-Cables-U locks. What do you use and how do you store it?

"loaf of milk..." ???? I use a cable/u-lock combo

AXA defender Ring lock + 140cm lockup chain ..
I like a lot..
helps that frame has fittings for mounting the RL.
Chain is wrapped around seat post
and across the mounts for my Carradice saddle Bag.

http://clevercycles.com/products/accessories/locks/#_

Big plus, lock is on the frame, quick stop in and out of the store ?
then the hasp of the lock goes around the back wheel, so no one can roll it away.

next level of security , chain around front wheel, then a fixed object,
and pin on the lock , plugs into a catch on the lock..
take the key out.. , ride with it in..
just don't lose the key in the store.. :P

Me too. Kryptonite Evolution Series 4 u-lock is a good all-round bet, Sold-Secure gold rating but not as hefty as the New York series. I tether the front wheel to the U-lock with a cable as a deterrent.

Also, I buy powdered dry milk ;) Much easier to haul when you can add the water at home!

I use a mid-range u-lock, a cheap cable when I want extra security, and if I still don't feel comfortable locking up my bike, I don't leave it there.

Luckily my main spot is just about ten feet from where the security guard on his bike likes to hang out.

I use a Kryptonite 4x9 U-lock for my commuter along with allen key skewers and allen key seat clamp. I put the lock around either seat stay or chain stay and the rim. That still leaves me with enough space for a parking meter post on the other side.

Lights go in the store with me.

Whenever I know I'm going out for a loaf of milk, I use my grocery getter bike rather than a snazzy bike. Oh heck, all of my bikes are cheap pieces of crap, who am I kidding! I really believe that a u-lock will do most of the work most of the time. Or a u-lock and a cable if I'm afraid of the bad guys. I set the bike up so that it hasn't any quick releases on it, and so that I don't leave anything on the bike that isn't secured: I use zip ties to keep the lights from disappearing, for instance.

You want to deter theft? Ride an unattractive bike, and have a lock that's better than the next guy's on the rack. You can't keep a pro from getting your bike if he wants to rip it off. Really, it's the opportunist you deter with a lock -- practically any lock. Realistically, you're only buying time with any lock.

I use a Kryptonite Evolution 4 Series U-Lock around my rear wheel with a cable wire attached to both ends of the U-Lock and wrapped around my front wheel.
I have the luxury of parking my bikes at the Cycle Center in The Loop of Chicago, so, I am not as worried when I take my bike downtown. When running
around the neighborhood or other places of interests (read: grocery, shopping, leisure, and entertainment) the above is how I lock my bike up and try not to
walk too far away from my bike so I can keep an eye on it.

There are other little things I do like take the seat and seat post with me, and both skewers. I am still new to commuting and learning the ropes so I am
always trying to come up with convenient ways of protecting my bike. I am sure there are a lot of things people do and one suggestion is to read through
the forum... I am sure you will find LOADS of info!

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5188/...3af326c1bc.jpg

I use a mini U lock. I also have a cable lock. I thought about a chain lock, but they are just too heavy.

U-locks are often a hard, un-cuttable metal (an angle grinder'll do it, but you'll shred a hacksaw; you WILL gain attention in either case); however older (pre-2005) Kryptonite U-locks of a few models had a flaw in the mechanism that allowed the 3 second bypass with a Bic pen. Mark Tobias found and published that one, and they brought the locking mechanism from their high end lines down into all lines of U locks, so it should be fixed.

The first thing you need to understand is that all locks can be bypassed. That nobody has an exploit yet doesn't matter; there is one, and if Mark Tobias takes an interest in the lock it'll be dead and gone in 3-4 months. He's rather unique, though; he's fast, and good at what he does. Most of the time, you don't have locksmiths looking at vanilla bike locks with unique, high-end locking mechanisms for specific exploits; and when you do, there's only a handful out of the whole lot that are as good as Tobias, so most will take years to find an exploit. A few of the good ones will find a crack quick.

That being said, I use a Master Lock that I suppose is pick-resistant, but you could eventually pick it I'm sure. I use this with a Kryptonite steel cable, which I want to replace with a custom cut of titanium chain. I think that will be more than sufficient, and I'll tell you why.

The Master Lock, I forget what line it is, but it's one of their fancy new Boron Carbide locks. Try hitting one with a bolt cutter; you might break the bolt cutter. You probably won't break the lock. Boron carbide steel is extremely hard, and it will hold up to a hack saw or a grinder for quite a while. The most aggressive tool you could tear at it with might take several minutes, and will be quite noisy at it.

A titanium steel chain is going to do the same exact thing: refuse access by hacksaw and bolt cutter. Again, you will be here for quite a while trying.

This means I can loop the chain (wrapped in shrink plastic tubing) through my bicycle's rear wheel, frame, and front wheel, and then lock it with an unbreakable lock. Now you can't steal my wheels; maybe you can take the quick release pin, and I will be quite annoyed, and need to spend $15 on a taxi and then $10 for a new quick release mechanism at a bike shop.

But as I said, all locks can be bypassed. It's a matter of time, or of finding a serious lock-specific exploit--again, this rarely happens and it gets fixed fast (unless it's a Medico 3 lock, then the company just covers their ears and wishes you would go away).

As for time, that's an easy one. Put your bike somewhere it's going to get attention. Attention by thieves is fine; bike rack, high traffic area, bolted down under a bright street light, sure. And during the 15-20 minutes they're there with power tools, the cops show up. Nobody wants to squat down for even one solid minute to steal your bike; if they can't grab it and go they're going to steal the next guy's bike instead.

For reference, the absolute worst place to park your bike is chained to a solid post in a dark back alley. When you come back 2 hours later, some guy will have had an easy hour and a half to crack your super high end locks. Sure it takes time, but who's watching anyway? Or, since you're off in the dark alone, they'll just wait in the shadows and then club you and take your bike once you unlock it (that's what I'd do; this is not rocket surgery). Even if you have a combination lock and they spot you, what good is that combination? They can't steal your key? Have you ever heard of rubber hose cryptography?

So yes, basically you want a cable lock that can't be cut without power tools, coated with a vinyl shrink hose, that you can run through both wheels and the frame. Lock it with some kind of unbreakable padlock, like a $10 boron carbide Master Lock or anything titanium-vanadium-steel if you have $10,000 for a padlock. But more importantly, chain it up somewhere that draws attention to thieves so they don't want to squat down for 10 minutes trying to break your lock. I could chain my bike up in a very high crime area and get away with it: the bike racks are directly across the street from a building constantly surrounded by about 30 police watching the street every friday and saturday night (no kidding, they just show up at 8pm and stand guard until 2am). There's 30 cops right there, 50 feet away, watching, for 6 hours straight. If you come down the street with a bolt cutter, you will get questioned.

Actually. . . depending on the post. . it's easier to cut through the post rather than the lock. I've heard about it, but never done it. My first good bike was actually stolen from my front yard. That was a long long time ago.

For the store, I at least try to bring the bike into the foyer where the carts are, otherwise +1 to locking it in plain sight. I use a cable lock. My U lock is really, really old. Has a barrel "kensington" style lock on it. . . it can also be pried apart with a flat head screwdriver as well as a pen or roll of paper. . .

I will never touch a loaf of milk again.

My bike is protected by a Masterlock coil lock wrapped around the frame, rear wheel and the locking post. A length of cable thru the front wheel, frame and locking post and the ends threaded onto a Kryptonite Fahgetaboutit (whatever way it's spelled), as well as the frame and the locking post. Takes less than a minute and looks ridiculous, therefore I still have my bike because bike thieves tend to like easy jobs.

How does locking the bike in plain sight in an area with lots of traffic help? This assumes that others will care or do anything.

Because if it actually takes an hour to crack your lock, the police eventually happen to drive/walk/horseride/bicycle by. Those horses are huge btw, and when did BMW start making bicycles?! Sure, you can saw through a lock in an hour. If the police drive by and see you, they will stop.

It's also a large psychological deterrent. Outside, at night, under the cover of darkness, you can do some seedy things. If you get caught and run, maybe the darkness prevents identity. It's a comfort blanket. Now imagine doing those seedy things standing under a 2000 watt sodium lamp that lights up a 15 foot diameter area as bright as the sun.

By the way: Cherry picking.

...... C'mon people!

I use a cable lock w/Master lock, U-lock, and a square link chain w/a mini U-lock when I feel a compelling need to lock up. I want to get a frame lock too.

In all reality, as a general rule, I don't feel a compelling need to use any of the locks. I live in a smallish (fairly low crime) town. Not many folks want to jack approximately 100 pounds of bicycle.

My only recommendation is, ride a crappy looking bike and get two locks, a cable lock and a U lock. Use both. They require different tools to crack, which means the thief not only needs to crack two locks but also have the appropriate tools. And the shiny bike next to yours with just one lock will look much more appealing.

The idea about replacing the QR on the seat and wheels is not something I considered---thanks. I have plastic coated SST cable at work I can cut a length and put eyes on the ends, I'll look into the pick proof/resistant lock.
Now that I'm thinking about this, I'm not seeing any bike racks at any of the stores I normally shop at. It's a realization how UN-bike friendly Long Island is.
I guess wrapping it around the seat post is about the best way to store it on the bike.

Thank you all for the advice.

Plate link.
I use one of these:

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=198225

I have one that is an On-Guard K-9 and an Abus. Both seem very similar.

I have a three tiered approach.

1) U-lock to something stationary. I use an On Guard Bulldog Mini long-shackle. If they're gonna break your U-lock, they're gonna break your U-Lock. Get a quality model, Kryptonite, On-Guard Bulldog, Abus - and don't overdo it on the beefiness. If they can break the base model, they're gonna have the tools for the deluxe one. Might as well save on weight - but don't skrimp on quality. Bulldog yellow and Krypto orange gives thieves pause.

2) Locking skewers for the wheels. I use Velo Orange's locking skewers, which replaces the QR with a 5mm security allen bolt. This is handy, as the "key" is just a standard security allen key - difficult but not impossible to find, and unlikely for a thief to carry around. It also lets me use security bolts in other places - like the seatpost collar.

3) Fred the heck out of the bike. Fenders, double-legger kickstand, 26x2.1 street slicks, ergonomic grips, mirror... it's a unique bike that's instantly recognizable. No-one gonna steal that.

This u-lock, backed up by this combo. The u-lock is transported on my bike by this 3-in-1 bracket while the combo stays on the rack at work. When picking up my "loaf of milk" I back up my u-lock with a cable, hoping that any would-be thieves will be deterred long enough for me to return to my bike.

Part of what I meant in my previous post regarding living in a smallish town, and no one wanting to jack ~100 pounds of bicycle.

When I am in the city, I use all the locks. I also don't go too far away from my bike, or stay away from it, for very long in the city.

Is that over by the gallon of bread :D?

Seriously though I use an onguard mini U lock. Basically whatever lock you use is better than using no lock at all. I had the onguard brute, but it was to heavy and bulky and I didn't like carrying it around.

I carry the mini using a twofish bikeblock on one bike since the carrying bracket it came with sucks. On the other bike I toss it in my rear basket.

Advice for me, also
 

I go to school at the University of Louisville and leave my bike unattended at bike racks around campus for hours at a time. So far I haven't seen campus to have a real high bike-theft rate. It took 3 months for an abandoned Specialized Allez to be stripped down and the frame left to a cheap Bell U-Lock. In the fall I will hopefully start grad school at the downtown campus, across the street from the city hospital. Slightly more crime in my opinion. My bike is probably the nicest bike on campus and it really is my only one. There are a couple other nice bikes, Treks, 1.1, 1.2, 2.1, Specialized Tricross, and a few other older models. None worth what my bike is really but my bike has been stickered, reflective-taped, and decorated to look nice but not all "shinny and racey"

Currently I have a Trek Streetwise U-Lock. This is an older lock, made by Kryptonite and is 13mm thick and pretty long. I know that you want as small a U-Lock as you can to prevent leverage, etc by bike theives so my question is this: should I bother replacing this u-lock with a Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboutit Mini Bicycle U-Lock (3.25 x 6-Inch)? I have a cheap cable lock to secure the front wheel and seat security cable (U-lock goes through frame, post, and rear wheel). Is my current set up sufficient or should I get the better U-Lock that has 5mm more thickness and significantly less chance of being cut/broken? I'm leaning towards yes because as a grad student me = poor. But if you guys think I'm overdoing it then I'll take your professional opinion.