Fed up with frustrating flats
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I may be lucky, but I've not had any puncture flats in 6000 miles with my Bontrager Select Invert tires.
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OP - Slow leaks are a pain to chase down. If the valve is not to blame, I suspect a micro-hole from a very small pointy thing embedded somewhere in the casing. A spoke nipple would more likely cause a burst than a slow leak.
if you haven't already done it, go around the casing methodically swiping your fingers on the inside of the casing (use small circular sweeping motions), making your way around the entire tire. Feel for even the slightest points, bumps, etc.
If you determine that the tires are to blame, consider putting some money towards top-end tires that offer excellent flat protection with good ride quality (Shwalbe Marathon Supreme, Continental Gatorskin, etc).
#29
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To OP, locating the exact spot of the puncture is vital. If you cannot find it, odds are you will not be able to find the cause. You'll end up buying a new tube and outer tyre, and hoping it wasn't anything in the rim that caused the flat. I've been there myself and sometimes it actually works.
The water trick should work, provided you a) put enough pressure in the tube before dunking it and b) twist and bend the tube around a bit when it's under water. Once you get to the punctured area, twisting and bending will widen the puncture to make it more obvious. When you know where the puncture is, look at the rim / outer tyre (depending on which side the tube is punctured) at the same spot. If it's on the tyre side and you still see / feel nothing there, inspect the thread carefully at that spot. There may be a miniscule cut on the surface, barely visible, but if you again twist and bend the tyre to make the cut wider, you may be able to see the offending shrapnel inside. You'll need small pliers to pry it out though.
I run Schwalbe Marathon Pluses myself, and they do a very good job at puncture protection. Schwalbe Marathon Racers are much nicer to ride, but in our conditions a SMR rear tyre lasts about 3000 kms before it's Swiss cheese. The "sand" they use in winter around here is real killer for bike tyres.
--J
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Last edited by Juha; 06-03-11 at 08:24 AM.
#30
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I recently got fed up with flats on my OEM tires, and switched to Specialized Armadillo Infinity tires. I definitely feel the increased weight of the Armadillo tires, and the ride is much more harsh. I'm not especially impressed. My bike used to feel like an untamed stallion. Now it feels like I'm riding a John Deere riding mower.
I ordered Mr. Tuffy tire liners last night, so I can swap back to my comfy OEM tires.
I ordered Mr. Tuffy tire liners last night, so I can swap back to my comfy OEM tires.
1. They make the ride worse than without the liner
2. They're not perfect (nothing is, just sayin')
3. They have the potential to cut the tube and cause flats themselves that wouldn't otherwise happen
The problem, most likely, is that you went from the OEM tires which were terrible, to super heavy duty Armadillo tires which were probably made with the philosophy "worth destroying ride quality for no flats at all".
There are many in between tires that don't hurt ride quality but are nearly certainly more flat resistant than the OEM tires.
As someone else said, if you want the cushiest ride and aren't riding super skinny tires the Schwalbe Supreme's are maybe the cushiest riding tires you can buy (though they're expensive) and they're also fairly flat resistant. I use Panaracer TServ tires on my commuter bike right now and they've been good for both ride quality and flat resistance as well as not being terribly expensive. Other suggestions I hear are Continental Gatorskins, or if you're riding a racing bike Continental gp4000's.
There's sort of 3 categories of flat resistant tires -
1. No flat resistant (OEM tires on some bikes, or the cheaper tires stores sell)
2. Decent flat resistance without sacrificing ride quality
3. Super flat resistant tires that sacrifice ride quality in exchange for better flat resistance
The tires I suggested above below to category #2, some versions of the Armadillos are in category #3, as are the Schwalbe Marathon Plus's (note that the standard Schalbe Marathon non-plus tires are in #2).
#31
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+1 Mr. Tuffy, +1 Slime liners. I use them on my 23's (105 psi) without issue. Not sure what the difference is with those who have had different results.
#32
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I...would seriously consider returning the Mr Tuffy's when you get them (without opening them) and buying a better midrange flat resistant tire. Everything I've read about the tire liners has said that -
1. They make the ride worse than without the liner
2. They're not perfect (nothing is, just sayin')
3. They have the potential to cut the tube and cause flats themselves that wouldn't otherwise happen
The problem, most likely, is that you went from the OEM tires which were terrible, to super heavy duty Armadillo tires which were probably made with the philosophy "worth destroying ride quality for no flats at all".
There are many in between tires that don't hurt ride quality but are nearly certainly more flat resistant than the OEM tires.
As someone else said, if you want the cushiest ride and aren't riding super skinny tires the Schwalbe Supreme's are maybe the cushiest riding tires you can buy (though they're expensive) and they're also fairly flat resistant. I use Panaracer TServ tires on my commuter bike right now and they've been good for both ride quality and flat resistance as well as not being terribly expensive. Other suggestions I hear are Continental Gatorskins, or if you're riding a racing bike Continental gp4000's.
There's sort of 3 categories of flat resistant tires -
1. No flat resistant (OEM tires on some bikes, or the cheaper tires stores sell)
2. Decent flat resistance without sacrificing ride quality
3. Super flat resistant tires that sacrifice ride quality in exchange for better flat resistance
The tires I suggested above below to category #2, some versions of the Armadillos are in category #3, as are the Schwalbe Marathon Plus's (note that the standard Schalbe Marathon non-plus tires are in #2).
1. They make the ride worse than without the liner
2. They're not perfect (nothing is, just sayin')
3. They have the potential to cut the tube and cause flats themselves that wouldn't otherwise happen
The problem, most likely, is that you went from the OEM tires which were terrible, to super heavy duty Armadillo tires which were probably made with the philosophy "worth destroying ride quality for no flats at all".
There are many in between tires that don't hurt ride quality but are nearly certainly more flat resistant than the OEM tires.
As someone else said, if you want the cushiest ride and aren't riding super skinny tires the Schwalbe Supreme's are maybe the cushiest riding tires you can buy (though they're expensive) and they're also fairly flat resistant. I use Panaracer TServ tires on my commuter bike right now and they've been good for both ride quality and flat resistance as well as not being terribly expensive. Other suggestions I hear are Continental Gatorskins, or if you're riding a racing bike Continental gp4000's.
There's sort of 3 categories of flat resistant tires -
1. No flat resistant (OEM tires on some bikes, or the cheaper tires stores sell)
2. Decent flat resistance without sacrificing ride quality
3. Super flat resistant tires that sacrifice ride quality in exchange for better flat resistance
The tires I suggested above below to category #2, some versions of the Armadillos are in category #3, as are the Schwalbe Marathon Plus's (note that the standard Schalbe Marathon non-plus tires are in #2).
A lot depends on how much debris/thorns you typically encounter but there are tires that aren't quite as flat resistant as Armadillos but still much better than typical OEM tires. A common reaction from people who get a lot of flats is to ask for the most flat resistant tire an LBS can get their hands on and then they're unhappy with the ride quality.
Just check the reviews on whatever tire you're considering. Unfortunately, tires that both ride well and have decent flat protection seem to cost more, but it's worth it. Tires are all about compromise, and sometimes the compromise is having to spend more than what you wanted.
Last edited by tjspiel; 06-03-11 at 02:21 PM.
#33
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Whoa, hadn't really expected as much activity on this thread. I'll answer a few questions that might have been asked.
-The tubes have all been sourced locally at various LBS (is the plural LBI ?)- Giant, Specialized, and Bontrager. Schraeder (sp?) valve.
-The OEM tires are Tioga City Slickers in 26x1.5 format, rated to 65 p.s.i. (which I tend to run just a tad higher than that ).
-Rim strip is utilized, which came stock and is of the plasticky rubber variety.
-I did run my fingertips over the inside of the tire. I'm legally blind, so waiting for me to prick my finger is actually quicker than trying to see anything .
As an experiment, I've removed my front fender and have taken my front wheel off for transporting. The flats have occurred on both front and rear- which ever one went into the SUV first. So maybe the tubes were being traumatized by something I was doing while loading the bike for transport.
-The tubes have all been sourced locally at various LBS (is the plural LBI ?)- Giant, Specialized, and Bontrager. Schraeder (sp?) valve.
-The OEM tires are Tioga City Slickers in 26x1.5 format, rated to 65 p.s.i. (which I tend to run just a tad higher than that ).
-Rim strip is utilized, which came stock and is of the plasticky rubber variety.
-I did run my fingertips over the inside of the tire. I'm legally blind, so waiting for me to prick my finger is actually quicker than trying to see anything .
As an experiment, I've removed my front fender and have taken my front wheel off for transporting. The flats have occurred on both front and rear- which ever one went into the SUV first. So maybe the tubes were being traumatized by something I was doing while loading the bike for transport.
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#34
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One flat in 8,000 miles of Sonora Desert riding. 26 x 1.75 tires, (one Salvo, one Maxxis Overdrive, 60 psi or so), Mr. Tuffys and thorn-resistant tubes. Sounds like folks with skinny tires are having more Tuffy problems. I won't ride without them.
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I have Continental Gatorskins and I have gotten so many flats my bike just hangs there on the wall, unridden. Pretty sick of it.
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Think I found the problem
Small burr in the opening of the rim where the valve stem goes...
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I've been using the specialized tri-sport's, with the "flak jacket technology" (700 x 23) for some time now. I don't like them as rear tires because they wear out too quick. However, I do find them to be good for the fronts. In two years, I've only had 2 flats with these tires. I don't have any complaints about the traction or ride quality either, considering the tire only cost $15
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I have had good luck with Mr Tuffy's. My Older bikes had them. I bought a used bike on Craig's list and had 5 flats the the first 4 times I commuted to work. I have never had that many flat tires and then I remembered that my older bikes had Mr Tuffy liners. So I got some new ones. Here is my YouTube video of my latest installation process.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1rWK1uOcW-c
After installing Mr Tuffy I had my back tire go flat. I got home and found the hole and it was on the side facing the spokes. The el-cheapo rubber rim liner was discarded and replaced with Vellox rim tape. 2 more commutes, 69 miles no flats, fingers crossed.
Regards
Nat
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1rWK1uOcW-c
After installing Mr Tuffy I had my back tire go flat. I got home and found the hole and it was on the side facing the spokes. The el-cheapo rubber rim liner was discarded and replaced with Vellox rim tape. 2 more commutes, 69 miles no flats, fingers crossed.
Regards
Nat
#40
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Racelites were my choice of tires for several years, but the center tread section was too soft and was susceptible to cuts and lacerations, plus the tread would separate from the casing at around 1500 miles almost like clockwork. I've since switched to Michelin Pilot City tires, just a little slower but a lot more bombproof than the Bontragers.
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Racelites were my choice of tires for several years, but the center tread section was too soft and was susceptible to cuts and lacerations, plus the tread would separate from the casing at around 1500 miles almost like clockwork. I've since switched to Michelin Pilot City tires, just a little slower but a lot more bombproof than the Bontragers.
#42
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Schwalbe Marathon Plus MTB - I take nails or wood screws out of them often and have never had a flat.
Ride safe,
Jeff
Ride safe,
Jeff
#43
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I've got some ribmos in the works, my wife just has to ok the purchase .
As the old say goes, "it's better to ask for forgiveness than permission", get the tires,
your arm will thank you, as well as your pocket book on any other possible future injuries due to bad tires.
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#44
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Overinflate the tube to about 4 times normal size before doing the water test.
#45
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I will say this though, I run tubulars on my road bike with that Tufo goop in them and I get about 6X the mileage between flats.
J.
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For what it's worth, I bought a set of these and they didn't even make it through the week. Went back to to the Vittorio Rubino Pros and they're fine. Pretty much try any tire and see how it works. If it doesn't? Then try something else. There is no magic bullet for this.
I will say this though, I run tubulars on my road bike with that Tufo goop in them and I get about 6X the mileage between flats.
J.
I will say this though, I run tubulars on my road bike with that Tufo goop in them and I get about 6X the mileage between flats.
J.