![]() |
Originally Posted by jdswitters
(Post 12792585)
What is proofhide made of anyway, unobtanium. The glands from something on the endangered species list? That stuff is expensive!
|
Originally Posted by pallen
(Post 12792838)
The brooks saddles stay hard (insert joke). The secret is how slick they are, how they mold to your bones and flex. The slickness keeps your skin from shearing the way it does with gel or squishy saddles.
|
I was also looking into a Brooks saddle, mostly because they look cool, and they are world renowned for comfort. I wasn't planning on posting, but after another poster mentioned Selle SMP, I gave to give a shout out. I currently own a Selle SMP Extra, and I gotta say it is the MOST comfortable saddle I've ever ridden in (not that there have been many, and not a brooks...yet). I got it 2 years ago, and it was comfortable right from the start, although it seems to have lost some cushion as of late. That's my two cents.
|
I saturated Proofide by heating my saddle in a warm oven ,
soaked it up like a sponge the waxes in it liquified, and when it cooled again re solidified in the leather.. Its been fine for decades.. my butt liked the Professional version. |
Originally Posted by usndoc2011
(Post 12794022)
I was also looking into a Brooks saddle, mostly because they look cool, and they are world renowned for comfort. I wasn't planning on posting, but after another poster mentioned Selle SMP, I gave to give a shout out. I currently own a Selle SMP Extra, and I gotta say it is the MOST comfortable saddle I've ever ridden in (not that there have been many, and not a brooks...yet). I got it 2 years ago, and it was comfortable right from the start, although it seems to have lost some cushion as of late. That's my two cents.
The problem with non-leather saddles is that it can only get worse. Eventually what ever padding is in the saddle will break down. After that you're essentially riding on a piece of plastic. You can expect to replace any non-leather saddle every 2 or 3 years depending on how much you ride. On the other hand leather saddles can last for decades with proper care. The initial price may be high but in the long run it's inexpensive. I have two saddles. A well broken in flyer (a sprung B-17) and recently a VO model 8. The flyer is on my hybrid and the model 8 on my upright commuter. I'm set for decades with no worries. |
Originally Posted by Stubby
(Post 12794406)
That's an expensive saddle. Cost about the same as a Brooks.
The problem with non-leather saddles is that it can only get worse. Eventually what ever padding is in the saddle will break down. After that you're essentially riding on a piece of plastic. You can expect to replace any non-leather saddle every 2 or 3 years depending on how much you ride. On the other hand leather saddles can last for decades with proper care. The initial price may be high but in the long run it's inexpensive. |
I have been using a Selle Italia Flite since I bought it new in the mid-90's.
The only wear is a bit of the black finish rubbed off on the edges of the nose. |
Originally Posted by pallen
(Post 12792838)
The brooks saddles stay hard (insert joke).
Originally Posted by cooker
(Post 1437097)
An older male cyclist was worried about his declining sexual functioning, but he was reluctant to tell his wife, who already disapproved of his bicycling, that the problem could be due to nerve compression from a badly fitting bike seat, and might be fixed by getting a Brooks B-17 leather saddle. Finally, one night in bed, after another mediocre bout of lovemaking, he blurted out “I wanna B-17”. She laughed wryly and said “Honey, it wasn’t that great when you were that age, either”.
|
Originally Posted by CliftonGK1
(Post 12793188)
Are bees endangered?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pollinator_decline |
Originally Posted by perspiration
(Post 12792510)
The b17 seems really hard and stiff until you sit on it. somehow, the slight flex even when brand new makes it very comfortable to sit on, assuming it's adjusted correctly.
I'm keeping my brown B17 Special for now, but haven't decided what to do with my black B17 Standard. They've both been on my commuter, a hybrid/city bike converted to drop bars only a couple inches below the saddle. I had a Swift on my road bike, but decided to try a Specialized Romin, which is turning out to be pretty good. I also still have an unused Swift that I got for a bike that's since been sold. Oh, and +1000 for the slickness of a Brooks. That's the drawback of the Romin, which, although it's not the grippiest saddle I've ever tried, still requires me to unweight if I want to change position. The lycra-covered gel saddles I see for sale have to be the worst idea ever. |
Originally Posted by gecho
(Post 12792964)
I've got 320km on my pre-aged B17. One thing I've noticed is that unlike my stock saddle, "close enough" doesn't cut it for positioning. I noticed that I was sliding forward a bit, so today I raised the nose about 1mm or less and it made a huge difference in comfort. It takes a while to find the position that is just right. Unfortunately I think that position might be slightly different for the two pairs of cycling shorts I have (different thickness of chamois).
Very slight adjustments tilting and forward and back make a huge difference in comfort with the brooks. I found my brooks to be comfortable from the beginning. I suspect that some of the people that find them really uncomfortable during break-in would benefit from tweaking of the tilt/position. |
25000 miles on my B-17, never had to adjust it or use Proofhide. Had used just regular saddle soap.
|
A couple of folks have talked about their non-leather saddle being comfortable "from the beginning." Isn't that the only way those things are comfortable, since they do not break in? Sure, you might find after an hour or two that it isn't quite as comfortable as you thought, but as long as your butt is used to long hours in the saddle, the saddle is what it is.
I have yet to find that non-leather uber saddle FOR ME. I've got Flites on all my MTBs and it is thoroughly adequate, but it is not the decadent luxury of my Brooks-clad road machines. |
I have three bikes which have brooks B-17 saddles on them, so I guess you could call me a fan. One of the bike/saddles has 14,000 miles on it now, and the saddle sags a little in the middle, I have tightened the bolt, and it has made it better, but the saddle is not what it once was. Each of the other two have about 4,000 miles on them. One thing that I find surprising is that the newer of those two (one was bought 2 years ago, the other years ago), looks almost new, and is still very hard and firm. The older one is visibly more broken in, and is more comfortable. I wonder if the quality of the leather used hasn't changed between my various saddles.
Lately I have been experiencing lust over the Gilles Berthoud saddles - OMG are they gorgeous. I got a chance to see and caress one in person and have been dreaming about it ever since. |
Originally Posted by sauerwald
(Post 12797701)
One of the bike/saddles has 14,000 miles on it now, and the saddle sags a little in the middle, I have tightened the bolt, and it has made it better, but the saddle is not what it once was.
|
Originally Posted by mgeoffriau
(Post 12797726)
I wonder if you could revive it by lacing the sides together as described on Sheldon's site.
That overnight soak made the leather as elastic as a rubber band, and no amount of cranking the tensioner bolt would keep the center section from sagging out. But in both cases, punching and lacing fixed them up just fine. I use a Sprenger-Herm rotary punch for making clean holes, and 2mm climber's accessory cord for lacing because it has a strong wear life and very little stretch. |
I've done about 150 miles worth of commuting, 18 miles/day, so far on the Imperial and it's much more comfortable than the B17 I tried. But then again: anything would be more comfortable than the B17 I tried :D OK, it's more comfortable than my midrange WTB saddle too. I may go for a two week tour next week and I'm thinking about taking the Brooks saddle. I still need to tweak the position a bit but it looks promising. It definitely makes riding in normal clothing much more comfortable.
|
Originally Posted by sauerwald
(Post 12797701)
I got a chance to see and caress one in person and have been dreaming about it ever since.
|
Originally Posted by AdamDZ
(Post 12798316)
It definitely makes riding in normal clothing much more comfortable.
It's as if the cycling industry has creating business for itself, by moving from leather to synthetic saddles, which in turn has necessitated the need for expensive cycling shorts. It's a conspiracy!!!! In the long run, between the long life of a leather saddle, and the lack of specialty clothing required, a good quality leather saddle is by far the cheapest option for cyclists. |
I've been following the thread above and figured i'd jump in with my $0.02. I've been commuting with a 2005 Trek Multi-Trak 7200 Hybrid for about 18 months or so. After going through the stock saddle (ugh!!) followed by a Terry saddle I was doing some reading on the Brooks on-line catalog for the B68. This sounded ideal because it was wider to account for the more upright position but didn't have the springs, because I have a telescoping seat post. What I found was discomfort in my hip joint. But what I finally realized is that my seating position is not really all that upright, even on my hybrid. I sold the B68 on Ebay and replaced it with a standard B17 and the pain is gone. FWIW.
|
FWIW women have issues with leather saddles sometimes which men don't experience; men have experiences with saddles in general that women don't have.
|
they are expensive enough now to steal and fence.. craig's list and ebay are the iFence, now.
|
| All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:16 AM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.