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Originally Posted by kiltedcelt
(Post 13329188)
Well Steely Dan and I both ride in Chicago, so we're both dealing with the same types of road surfaces. However, with that being said, I would NOT want to ride 700x20 tires in this environment. I did that when I first moved up here and it SUCKED! That's why I have my current bike with its 700x32 tires and the old 700x20 racer road bike is long gone.
i think the carbon fork on my road bike makes it tolerable though. there's no way i'd want to run 130psi tires on my hybrid with its aluminum fork. |
I will second the comment about a J type fork. I had a touring bike with an aluminum frame and fork and switched all components over to a 2008 Kona Jake the Snake which has a Carbon fork. I thought the Jake was far stiffer in all aspects including the fork. The odd think about eh Aluminum fork I had was that it was very springy and had a good bend to it thus absorbing a lot of shock.
Ultimately, go with front suspension if you want a smooth ride... There was a great rant by bike snob a while back contrasting Carbon with Aluminum. He suggested it was a lot of hype.... Honestly, I really can't tell a big difference. I have 2 bikes with Carbon forks, Bikes without and they feel the same to me. I also have a tandem with front suspension and that certainly gives a smooth ride with it's long wheelbase. |
I have the Nashbar Cyclocross Carbon Fork on my Cross bike and I am very pleased with it. I weigh 240 to 250 depending on my lifting program, so differences in ride are not imagined. I ride very hard, load up with cargo, do short tours, and I also use this bike in paceline training. The thing that made the biggest difference with the AL frame on my cross, however, was the Thudbuster ST seatpost.
The Thudbuster is amazing, and it seemed to synergize with the carbon fork and make it even more relevant. The combo is a complete killer and I highly recommend them both together. You will have the best of both worlds with a stiff and responsive frame without nearly as much of the brittleness. |
Originally Posted by volvostephen
(Post 13329292)
There was a great rant by bike snob a while back contrasting Carbon with Aluminum. He suggested it was a lot of hype.... Honestly, I really can't tell a big difference. I have 2 bikes with Carbon forks, Bikes without and they feel the same to me.
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What about carbon versus steel? I don't have any aluminum forked bikes, but I have a hard time telling the difference between my curved steel forks and my straight carbon forks.
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^ steel is a fine fork material as well, i just figure that if i'm gonna go through the trouble of replacing my aluminum fork, why not also try to save a little weight at the same time by going carbon.
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Originally Posted by Steely Dan
(Post 13323950)
...anyway, here's a very quick photoshop i threw together to give me a rough idea of what the aesthetic ramifications might be from switching out the aluminum fork that came with my bike for a black carbon fork. it's certainly not an aesthetic improvement, but perhaps i could get used to it.
I think CF forks will be an asthetic improvement over your orange ones, it's just the photoshop job that isn't so hot. :) |
^ i dunno, i kinda like the aesthetic purity of the fork matching the frame. it makes the bike look "whole".
then again my titanium road bike has a black carbon fork that doesn't match the frame and it still looks quite nice. i guess you could say i'm torn. my desire for greater vibration damping from a carbon fork is battling my desire to maintain the bike's aesthetic integrity as is. which desire is stronger? i'm gonna have to do some real deep-down soul searching on this one........... |
Originally Posted by DG Going Uphill
(Post 13328049)
On a perfectly smooth service, yes, but most of us don't have those. Steely Dan seems to live in such a wonderful place, so if the lower comfort doesn't sap too much energy, then I'd agree that he'll be faster with the higher pressure. If he rode on my bumpy roads, he'd be slower with the high pressure.
Sheldon Brown has a chart somewhere. A lot of folks are under the impression that Max PSI means Max performance and it isn't true. |
Originally Posted by tjspiel
(Post 13333974)
A lot of folks are under the impression that Max PSI means Max performance and it isn't true.
but more important to me than raw performance is reducing my rolling resistance to a point that is still safe. on my road bike, i've found that if i inflate my rubinos up to their max 145psi, the contact patch gets too small for the weight of me and my bike and handling starts getting kinda dicey. but down at around 130psi, i get that sweet "steel wheel on a steel rail" ride quality that i love while still having enough contact patch with the road surface to be relatively safe. if it's even a little damp out, i'll bleed out air down to around 110psi (though i do try to avoid riding my road bike altogether when precipitation/wetness is a potential factor). |
Originally Posted by kiltedcelt
(Post 13324512)
Sounds like good informed advice - thanks. I typically ride an average of 15-18mph if I'm riding into the wind and the wind is not blowing too hard. If I get the tail wind going home I'm often riding an average closer to 20+ mph. Sounds like a CF fork might be just the icing on my commuter cake. Alas, I don't believe the Nashbar fork has a CF steerer - only aluminum. Still, it gets a lot of rave reviews for its apparent ability to smooth out bumps.
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Originally Posted by jeffpoulin
(Post 13332621)
What about carbon versus steel? I don't have any aluminum forked bikes, but I have a hard time telling the difference between my curved steel forks and my straight carbon forks.
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I'm surprised that 700x32 tires aren't providing a comfortable ride. Can't see any reason why a CF fork wouldn't help. If it doesn't, then it's time to start thinking about a new bike. How about a nice Surly Cross Check, or better yet, a Surly Long Haul Trucker with 26 inch wheels? If a steel touring bike with fat 26 inch tires and a long wheelbase isn't comfortable enough for you, then maybe it's time for a recumbent trike?
Mike I'm definitely going to ride a recumbent trike when I get old. With a fairing and a big orange flag. Gonna grow a beard and a gut, too. |
Originally Posted by Schwinnrider
(Post 13334289)
I'm surprised that 700x32 tires aren't providing a comfortable ride. Can't see any reason why a CF fork wouldn't help. If it doesn't, then it's time to start thinking about a new bike.
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Decades ago, the solution was a J bend at the bottom of a steel tapered fork blade.
It flexed there and provided the desired added comfort. and wheels with tires about an inch and a half wide. |
I would never use anything but steel fork. I don't trust carbon. CF components can fail when you least expect it.
Who cares about saving few grams of weight. I know of two guys who had a CF handle bar break just as they were starting to ride the trail. |
^ It's true. Carbon will aslpode on ya, every time. It's because they stick itty bitty little bombs in the tubing before it leaves the factory. You can actually have safe carbon bike parts, you just need to pull the asplosives out before you ride them.
I destroyed an aluminum frame in a minor crash, and a steel frame when I got hit by a car. If I hadn't noticed the damage in either case and kept riding the bikes, I could be telling people how steel just failed mysteriously on me, out of the blue for no reason whatsoever. |
Originally Posted by wolfchild
(Post 13344517)
Who cares about saving few grams of weight.
carbon disc/v-brake fork - 722 grams cro-mo disc/v-brake fork - 1332 grams that's a difference of 610 grams (~1.3 pounds). not an earth shattering difference, but also more than a "few grams of weight". |
Originally Posted by wolfchild
(Post 13344517)
I would never use anything but steel fork. I don't trust carbon. CF components can fail when you least expect it.
Who cares about saving few grams of weight. I know of two guys who had a CF handle bar break just as they were starting to ride the trail. So - although I don't care either way - I don't buy into the myth of carbon breaking but I also don't think it is so much smoother. J bend is the way to go. If you have straight forks - then that is likely what you want to avoid regardless of carbon aluminum or cromo. |
Originally Posted by volvostephen
(Post 13347508)
Well - I went down on a bike with a carbon fork. It was on a wet wooden bridge (of course I fell) and the front wheel smashed into the side of the bridge. The front wheel was a reinforced strong wheel and it bent something fierce but my carbon fork was fine - no signs of trauma. If that was steel, it would have for sure at least bent.
So - although I don't care either way - I don't buy into the myth of carbon breaking but I also don't think it is so much smoother. J bend is the way to go. If you have straight forks - then that is likely what you want to avoid regardless of carbon aluminum or cromo. It is a myth that a J-bent fork is more flexible than a straight fork. They will both flex about the same for comparable dimension forks. |
Originally Posted by volvostephen
(Post 13347508)
I don't buy into the myth of carbon breaking but I also don't think it is so much smoother. J bend is the way to go. If you have straight forks - then that is likely what you want to avoid regardless of carbon aluminum or cromo.
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Originally Posted by Steely Dan
(Post 13348065)
i have a bike with a straight blade carbon fork and one with a straight blade aluminum fork. the carbon fork is very noticeably less "buzzy". j-bends might do other wonderfully magical things to forks as well, but even just comparing like for like (ie. straight blade with straight blade), i like my carbon fork a whole hell of a lot more than my aluminum fork. maybe it's just a design issue and i need to find a better designed aluminum fork, but if i'm replacing my aluminum fork anyway, i might as well just go carbon. i've heard and read a lot of experiences from others about how going with a carbon fork improved the ride of their bike. along with my own experiences, i'm inclined to believe that there might be something to it.
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^ i'm not expecting a dramatic change by switching to carbon, i am only hoping it provides for a less "buzzy" ride quality than my current aluminum fork.
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Winwood, Ritchey and White Bros. are highly regarded for disc-specific CF forks. Not sure about the Nashbar. I'd be interested in a ride report if you end up getting a CF fork.
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Originally Posted by alan s
(Post 13349539)
Winwood, Ritchey and White Bros. are highly regarded for disc-specific CF forks. Not sure about the Nashbar.
Originally Posted by alan s
(Post 13349539)
I'd be interested in a ride report if you end up getting a CF fork.
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