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I love my Ay-up lights. http://www.ayup-lights.com/ Bright, lightweight, fast charging time, multiple mounting options, and they come with red caps that go over the lights to be rear-facing. I have the front facing medium beam on the bar pointed forward and the narrow beam on my helmet with the red caps pointed backwards. When I go mountain biking in the dark, I just flip the helmet lights around and take the caps off.
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I also like the Planet Bike Superflash. One of my neighbors told me and I quote "dude, it looks like an ambulance when you ride up the street..." (okay, I say he's exaggerating a little...) but it is pretty bright when it's in the flash mode.
I also have the Planet Bike 1 watt front light too. I'm pleased with both, and I think I paid about $60.00 for both. I know there are better ones, but it works for me. |
Originally Posted by nashcommguy
(Post 13465572)
Recently purchased a Niterider Mi-Newt 150 cordless, re-chargable headlight from http://www.nashbar.com for 70.00. It's a phenomenal light for the money. Too bright on high beam. I use it on it's lowest setting. It has a nice, tight light barrell. The strobe mode flashes between off and the highest setting...WAY too intense.
The strobe looks like this video: Right now I'm running a LED flashlight instead that is rated at over 500 Lumens. The cost of the light, batteries, and charger were right around $100 which is pretty decent. As an added bonus, I can carry an extra battery for run time. |
I have a Cygolite Pace 310 and a Magicshine. I like the Cygolite in almost all ways: Beam pattern & evenness, mounting, charging, blink pattern, battery mounting & size. The only thing better about the MS is brightness.
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Originally Posted by gerv
(Post 13465404)
I really don't understand why more cyclists don't use dynohubs. I find the light more than adequate for my purposes and you can now buy lights in the 2-3 watt range that are well suited to even fast riding.
But the real clincher is that you don't have to change a battery or recharge anything. Oftentimes, you don't even have to switch it on. Very convenient. |
I use the Cygolite TridenX Extra. A little pricey, but it is a great system. Super bright, long lasting and a super wide beam. It is somewhat large, but light. I can mount it on my mountain bike helmet. For commuting I have it mounted on the bars with the battery mounted in a waterbottle.
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Originally Posted by drbenjamin
(Post 13465459)
Are any of the modern dyno solutions equipped with reserve capcity to keep the lights on during stops?
My E3 Pro achieves full brightness at about 3-4 MPH with the Alfine dynamo hub. |
Originally Posted by silmarillion
(Post 13466365)
I also like the Planet Bike Superflash. One of my neighbors told me and I quote "dude, it looks like an ambulance when you ride up the street..." (okay, I say he's exaggerating a little...) but it is pretty bright when it's in the flash mode.
So... I believe it. |
Originally Posted by Mithrandir
(Post 13467878)
I had heard that comment in reviews for it before I purchased it, and assumed it was an exaggeration. So I bought one last month. A week ago I pulled into my apartment complex and a neighbor pulled in after me in his car (it's a long driveway), and when we reached the parking lot, he said "Jesus Christ, I thought you were the cops!".
So... I believe it. I'm currently running a Portland Design Dangerzone which I like a lot more. The button is much easier to operate and there is a noticeable click after depressing it. The Dangerzone also seems to be more visible from the side. |
Originally Posted by gerv
(Post 13465404)
I really don't understand why more cyclists don't use dynohubs. I find the light more than adequate for my purposes and you can now buy lights in the 2-3 watt range that are well suited to even fast riding.
But the real clincher is that you don't have to change a battery or recharge anything. Oftentimes, you don't even have to switch it on. Very convenient. Conversely, two 18650 batteries plus charger cost me about $55 and then my front light, P-Rocket flashlight with XM-L, was about $42. My rear light was about $25. Eneloop AAA 4 pack, $10; charger $20. That comes out to $150 and change and I have lights and the power source to run them. Nevermind that my front light operates at about 5.2W which exceeds the 3W output from most hubs. The ongoing cost to charge said batteries is in the range of 0.25 cents a week for me. |
Originally Posted by chefisaac
(Post 13462212)
Wanted to get everyones opinion.
Will be starting to commute in the dark to and from work. Looking for a light that has a lot of lumens. I would think the brighter the better. Any suggestions? Heard some people have a front light and also a helmet light. Opinions? Heard some people use to blinkies on the back.... opinions? suggestions, opinions, and ideas along with advise.... all welcome! The sad thing is that even with all of those lights on my bike and helmet is that come the time that I get hit, the driver will still say that they didn't "see me." :( The Uno's I run in blink mode, except for the one that used to be on my helmet. I had that one mounted to my "old" Nightpro helmet mount and that one was in steady mode. All four taillights are also in blink mode. The Stella 150L will be in steady mode, all three Uno's will now be in blink mode, as will the fourth one when I get it. |
Originally Posted by pwdeegan
(Post 13464298)
+1 on the dynohub setup. I relied on battery-powered LEDs for years, which are nice and bright. But creating bag fulls of dead batteries, or the hassle of trying to replace proprietary recharables (I had an old NiteRider setup; the rechargeable finally only provided power for about 15 minutes) depressed me. Over the long haul, you break even (or even save money) by buying a good dynohub and pairing it with a good LED lamp.
I still use battery-powered LEDs, but usually only as backups, as in a helmet mount light during the darkest moments (forest paths, black MUPs), or in the rare case of wanting to stand out even more to traffic (the Sauron-like swiveling 2W LED spotlight). In any event, I'm not generating bags of battery waste any longer. |
Originally Posted by gerv
(Post 13465404)
I really don't understand why more cyclists don't use dynohubs. I find the light more than adequate for my purposes and you can now buy lights in the 2-3 watt range that are well suited to even fast riding.
But the real clincher is that you don't have to change a battery or recharge anything. Oftentimes, you don't even have to switch it on. Very convenient. |
Originally Posted by Digital_Cowboy
(Post 13471186)
Uh, what happens when you stop? Does it have a rechargeable battery or capacitor to keep the light on when you stop?
I've had several co-workers tell me "you left your lights on..." |
I realized that what I thought was sufficient (250 lumen Cygolite) wasn't yesterday when I had to go to someplace I've never ridden before. It was okay at about 15mph. Around 20mph+, I had barely any reaction time for pot holes, etc. I would imagine I would need somewhere around 350+ for less tense of ride.
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Originally Posted by bored117
(Post 13471866)
I realized that what I thought was sufficient (250 lumen Cygolite) wasn't yesterday when I had to go to someplace I've never ridden before. It was okay at about 15mph. Around 20mph+, I had barely any reaction time for pot holes, etc. I would imagine I would need somewhere around 350+ for less tense of ride.
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Originally Posted by canyoneagle
(Post 13471793)
On models with a "stand light" function, a capacitor keeps the lights illuminated (at lower "be seen" levels). On my E3 it is about 5-7 minutes.
I've had several co-workers tell me "you left your lights on..." |
I am using the Light & Motion Urban 300 for the front and their VIS180 for the rear. The VIS180 is awesome for the rear tail light, very bright, has 180 degree visibility, rechargeable and the angle of the light can be adjusted. The 300 has plenty of light for me as 80% of my commute is lighted bike lanes. I am thinking of adding a second front light that I would put in flash mode.
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I use a MiNewt 600 Cordless and a MiNewt 200 on the front at night, with two Planet Bike Superflash lights on the rear. During the daytime I leave the superflash lights off, but I run the MiNewt 600 in flash mode on the front, and the MiNewt 200 in flash mode facing to the rear.
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Talking with a friend of mine who works security at The Pier in downtown St. Pete he told me he could see me from a 1/4 of a mile off. That's as I've said three Cateye Uno's and one Motion and Light Stella 150L headlight. The Uno's are mounted on the bike two on the handlebars and one of the left side of the front fork and the Stella on my helmet.
And he knew who it was that was coming down the road based on the light pattern. |
Originally Posted by tractorlegs
(Post 13474526)
I use a MiNewt 600 Cordless and a MiNewt 200 on the front at night, with two Planet Bike Superflash lights on the rear. During the daytime I leave the superflash lights off, but I run the MiNewt 600 in flash mode on the front, and the MiNewt 200 in flash mode facing to the rear.
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Originally Posted by jsdavis
(Post 13475546)
That's not good dude. White lights to the front...red to the rear.
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Originally Posted by jsdavis
(Post 13466385)
For $15 more, I think the Minewt 350 is a better deal from Amazon...
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Originally Posted by kaseri
(Post 13463451)
Dinotte 800L up front and a 140r mounted to the seat rails.
As for tail lights for commuting - they might be more important than the head light for safety. Any of the AA or AAA blinky lights are inadequate. They look great in your hand, but get even 50' away from them and they are not bright unless you are on the right axis (no spread) and they look like tiny pinpoints of light. You'll get no respect from drivers with that. Another light that is important for safety is to have some sort of helmet mounted light. The more direct the beam the better. As you approach an intersection and if there is a car there that could cross you, aim the helmet light to light up the driver's side door to help get their attention. I've done this many times and it works very well. Even a very bright light (like the Piko or equivalent) won't blind the driver at the crossing distance, but they will definitely know you are there. OTOH, if you step up to the Dinotte 140R as a minimum and even better to the 300R, you'll find that cars slow down when the approach you and then will go wide around you. This has been documented by many riders (do a google search). These lights will get you respect because a car is not entirely sure that you aren't something big and important like a police car or hazard. J. |
I use 2 lights front and 2 lights on the back, 1 steady and 1 blinky. I prefer AA, AAA powered lights and carry spare batteries. On the back 1 of them is the cateye LD1100. As I'm on well lit streets/roads the other lights aren't particulary high powered certainly not powerful enough to ride at speed on unlit roads. So far I 've been visible from behind, and from the front approaching junctions.
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