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-   -   Nashbar Touring Frame Build (https://www.bikeforums.net/commuting/782661-nashbar-touring-frame-build.html)

megalowmatt 02-20-12 11:47 AM


Originally Posted by walnutz (Post 13860840)
Awesome thread, thanks for the pics and great descriptions. Headsets have kept me from building bikes from the ground up, but I see now I could probably pull it off. I think a new project is in the works...

I feel that with some thicker washers my home made headset press would work even better. Keep us in the loop if you start a build.

megalowmatt 02-20-12 11:48 AM


Originally Posted by discodonkey (Post 13864650)
I have to say this have been one of my favorite threads to read. Thanks for taking the time to show us through your work.

Thanks for looking!

megalowmatt 02-20-12 11:49 AM


Originally Posted by ThermionicScott (Post 13874005)
Good stuff. I hadn't checked this thread since everything came together. :thumb:

I really need a bike stand -- it's annoying to wrap handlebars or tweak the brakes when the bike is trying to get away from you...

I can't say enough positive things about that stand. Wish I would have had it from the beginning!

eltejano 02-20-12 06:21 PM

Great thread! One day when I'm ready to build up something from scratch I'll use this as inspiration.

Spld cyclist 03-11-12 09:41 PM

I'm thinking of buying the frame, but the matching fork won't be available until June. There are plenty of other forks available from various sources, but it would be good to know the length and rake specs on the original to find a good match. Did you come across these numbers for your fork? (They're probably hard to measure precisely.)

This was a great thread, and I'm sure I'll come to know it by heart if I buy the frame for myself. :)

megalowmatt 03-12-12 10:04 AM

Spld cyclist - Not available until June...that stinks.

I believe some have used Surly forks for these builds. One thing about the Nashbar fork is that it's pretty heavy. I was surprised how much it weighed compared to the frame.

Spld cyclist 03-12-12 02:38 PM

I'm going to e-mail Nashbar and see if they can tell me what the rake and crown to axle length are. I'll post whatever I find out. I've been looking at the Surly Long Haul Trucker fork, although there are probably some other options.

ahsposo 10-08-12 09:40 AM

Great thread, Matt. I'm going to resurrect it for inspiration.

One thing I'm curious about is the sizing of this frame. Nashbar isn't too forthcoming with geometry specs.

Does anybody know if this frame runs large or small? My stand over is 74 - 75 cm (29'). On most road bikes I'll use a 54cm frame but if the TT is longish I'll go with a 52cm.

megalowmatt 10-08-12 04:32 PM

Nashbar's geometry chart for the touring frame only refers to "top tube" measurement. On my size 52, the effective top tube length (from the center of the head tube to the center of the seat post) is just under 54cm by my non-scientific measurements.

ahsposo 10-08-12 05:16 PM

Matt, I wonder how similar we are in build.

I'm 5'8" with a 29" inseam.

I crossed my fingers today and ordered a 52.

megalowmatt 10-08-12 09:16 PM

I'm ~5'9" with a 31.5 inch cycling inseam.

ahsposo 10-09-12 05:49 AM

Cool! I was afraid it would be too small.

alaskadude 02-06-15 04:13 AM

setting the headset ring
 

Originally Posted by idc (Post 13517147)
Nice thread. Of all the bike mechanic stuff I've read and researched about, doing a headset/fork seems the scariest to me, and your experience has only confirmed that in my mind! I have a MTB with a cheap suspension fork I'd like to upgrade to a rigid fork but I'm not sure at all about actually doing the replacement.

This is an old thread but im answering. you set the headset ring on the top of the fork with a piece of plastic tubing, I think it is called conduit. I only built one bike--surly oger--and I am marking this by answering because I want to order a nashbar touring frame when I get home

alaskadude 02-06-15 04:24 AM


Originally Posted by Spld cyclist (Post 13525818)
Maybe for the crown race you could see if there is a size of pvc pipe that just fits over the steerer tube. That would allow you to apply consistent pressure on the race as you tap it down the tube. Light impact from the PVC probably won't harm the brass. Just a thought.

I'm enjoying this thread. Makes me want to do one for myself!

Jim S.

I have only built one bike, but after researching it, I found this is the proper method. I bought a piece of PVC the correct size from Home Depot, and slowly tapped down the crown race. Works great for me the first time. easier than I thought it would be


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