zbo2amt

I have a little cash and the green light from the wifey to get a new bike I primarily intend to use it to commute between 2-5 miles to work and back (depending on which route I take). I need to lose weight and find it hard to make time to exercise. So great thought, get a little everyday to and from work.

Here' what I'm looking for (in order of importance):
upright riding position
drop bars
STI shifters
urban/cool look
reliable frame
mounts for guards/racks
can fit tires up to 35mm wide (28mm is fine)

Here's the catch: only got about $600 to spend. Could go slightly over, but it's gotta be worth it.

I also can't afford to buy another road bike for longer weekend rides (which I expect with my increased saddle time and improved fitness), so this one bike has to do them both. I would like a little more durability than a straight up road bike because my commute does include some fine gravel shoulders, rough pavement, and I'd like not to be glued to the tarmac at all times

Thought hybrid/urban bike and replacing the handlebars and shifters for more of a weekend warrior. Also considered a cyclocross bike with compact geometry (if you know of any)

Bikes I would love but can't find: Kona Dew Drop (discontinued), Marin Lombard (2012 line costs $1,000)

Others I've looked at: Surly LHT (too expensive), Trek FX series, similar Giant, Specialized, Kona, Marin flat-bar (would have to add drop bars, STI, etc., bumping up price)

I am 6' and have about a 30-31 inch inseam. Kind of short-legged.

recumbenttoad

If you were the mechanical sort with the right tools you might be able to build up a Nashbar touring bike for that number. Other than that, do what I'm doing and start looking on Craigslist for something used. I almost picked up a 1983 Lotus Eclair for a couple of hundred bucks, but the seller kept blowing me off and then sold it to someone else. I'm still looking for another bike (don't need one, just want one) and the hunt is half the fun for me.

matimeo

Can you assemble and maintain a bicycle on your own? If so I would suggest the bikesdirect route. The Windsor Cyclo is $795, so a little out of your price range but one heck of a bike for the price and already geared for commuting and meeting all your other requirements. I'm sure they also have some cross bikes at a lower price with some slightly lower end components.

prathmann

Also from BikesDirect is the Windsor Tourist model at your $600 price point. It also has good gearing for commuting as well as the carrying capacity (already includes a rear rack) and flexibility of using wider tires. But, as mentioned, there is a little assembly required and it'd be good to at least know what to look over to be sure everything is working properly.

https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/tourist.htm

matimeo

https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/..._cross_cx2.htm

Here's the bikesdirect option I would go with on your budget- again assuming you know enough to assemble and maintain without the help of you lbs, or know somebody to help you.

a1penguin

upright riding position
drop bars
STI shifters

You get the first item or the last two. I don't know how difficult it is to replace straight bar with drop bars, but I think it involves replacing the shifters and brake levers as well. I've seen posts where people talk about doing this. Perhaps someone can chime in with more details.

What kind of riding do you expect to do? Road or off road? You mention both. Plenty of people ride mountain bikes for commuting. Most of the commuting bikes I see at work are hybrids. There are plenty of threads on "what bike should I buy" that will have posts that you might find useful. Also check out the Hybrid forum. The Trek FX 7.2 is a popular bike in your price range. Bike weights will vary a lot. Expect 23-30 lb range. It doesn't matter *what* kind of bike you ride. Get out and ride it.

Don't forget to budget some $ for helmet, patch kit, pump or other gear you might want.

I looked on a map and it looks like Lebanon is pretty small. Perhaps a trip to Nashville is in order. I would try to check out availability and prices online, spend a Saturday visiting shops and trying out a few and making a decision. If you are lucky, you might pick up a 2011 or 2010 model at a lower price.

Most bike shops should be willing to swap out the stem for a longer one at little or no cost to you. I would not recommend purchasing a bike online without trying it out.

waynesworld

If you have an active Craigslist in your area, and you are patient, you can sometimes find some great deals. Otherwise, I'd say bikesdirect, or maybe Nashbar (they have complete bikes too).

I got my Kona Jake (which I highly recommend) on year end closeout for $800 shipped. If you can find a similar deal on a Jake, it should do what you want.

no1mad 

I'd say go for a entry level hybrid and use Ergon grips, bar ends, or both to help with ergonomics. You're going to be hard pressed to find a brand new drop bar that fits all of your bullet points within your budget...

Or you could take the drive to REI (Brentwood?) and see if you can live with 25mm tires.

waynesworld

I like this option. If you need a triple chainring, I believe it is another $30.

waynesworld

BTW, "upright riding position" is a relative term. My Jake puts me fairly upright when on the hoods, more so on the tops, of course.

recumbenttoad

Well, I might disagree a little on that point. If you added a Nitto Dirt Drop or Periscopa stem you could run drop bars and be upright.

DVC45

Check out the Marin Lombard.

https://www.marinbikes.com/2012/bike_...m=2212&Lombard

RaleighSport

There's quite a few bikes on BD that meet the criteria in the price range even I believe.. but if you're REALLY handy there's always used parts off CL etc, you can get nice high end parts that haven't had a hard life for a fraction of the cost.. just requires knowledge and time... but here you could definitely find a sweet CL deal in that price range... even with our bloated bike market.

cpach

If you're an OK mechanic, I would get some sort of BikesDirect bike. Less than $600 gets you Sora shifters, notably better components (especially shifters) at $800.

Or really Craigslist. My main bike (a 2000 Trek XO-1) cost me $300... of course I've sunk a lot of money upgrading it since then, but aside from the lack of rack mounts, it would've fit your criteria well (excepting that it came with standard road gearing which is less than ideal).

Don't get a flat bar bike and change the bars/shifters, it'll be an incredible hassle and destroy your attempts at controlling the price. STI shifters are expensive and not an afterthought to budgeting.

Many cyclocross bikes would work for you. By upright do you mean level with the saddle or even higher, or do you just mean relatively undramatic bar drop? Most stock cross bikes don't result in super crazy saddle to bar drop (especially with shorter legs like yours) and come with a reasonable number of spacers above the headtube. If this isn't enough a high rise stem isn't the most expensive or difficult to install modification. Aside from making sure it can indeed fit fenders and racks (some racier bikes don't have mounts), take a look at the gearing. Depending on what kind of riding you do, gearing intended for competitive cyclocross riding may be too narrow, and specifically without enough low end. For example common-ish cross racing gearing might be a 46/36 crankset and a 11-26 cassette. Also common is road compact gearing with a 50/34 crank, which would be good unless you needed very low gears for climbing steep hills with either extra weight from luggage or from less-than-great fitness, or for possibly difficult offroad riding.

A touring bike would also of course work fine, but aside from used I don't know of anything other than BD that is in that price range new. Used again is always an option.

Monster Pete

With the right stem, you can get all three options. Drop bars don't have to be cranked way down below the saddle. I set mine with the tops just above the saddle. It's worth getting a shorter stem so you aren't too stretched out when on the hoods or drops.

You may get issues with the front derailleur. I use a bar end friction shifter which works with anything, but for some bizarre reason, shimano indexed shifters have different cable pull ratios for 'road' and 'mountain' components. You'll need to use a road FD with a brifter. The RD cable pull is the same for both AFAIK, except for 10-speed. Stick to 8 or 9-speed and you'll be fine.

I based my regular commuter around an old, fairly cheap mountain bike. These have good brakes and gearing, a sturdy frame and an upright riding position. There are usually mounts for racks and fenders as well. Putting drop bars on a 7 or 8-speed mtb should be relatively easy. I use drops on one bike and north roads on my commuter, which are by far the most comfortable bars I've used.

sci_femme

First - get fitted, or try riding different size bikes at REI and figure out the size needed. Your needs point towards cyclocross type, their geometry is already upright-ish relative to road bikes, of course, and they are relatively lighter than tourers.
Figure out componentry grade and if you can live with it buying brand new from BD or wherever (upgradeitis is wallet-degenerative disease). If not - shamelessly hit CL and then make it up to the LBS buying accessories and servicing the bike there. And bring them a 6-pack every now and then.
Buy a bike that puts a smile on your face, not the one that fits within a budget to the last red cent. Figure out concessions you can and can not live with. It does make sense to overbuy slightly, i.e. get a bike for you as you see yourself two, three years down the road.

Clear as mud, right?

Good luck

SF

old's'cool

I did that on my son's Novarra Forza. You need STI shifters to replace the separate brake & shift levers. The STI shifters, when purchased new, come with the necessary cables (less housings), so that is not an issue. You need select shifters that are compatible with the FD & RD (i.e. # of chainrings/cogs).

no1mad 

*ahem*

OP- how did you determine your criteria? Is there something wrong with your current bike (that's not mentioned) that you'd like to change or is this going to be your first bike in a long time and that you've compiled your wants/needs from info gleaned off the interwebz?

If you've taken the time to read a bunch of threads here, you'll be aware that your first bike is invariably wrong. Not saying you can't hit a home run right out of the box and find 'The One', but most people don't.

Also, I'm gonna get flamed here, but you don't need drops for club rides, centuries, or even longer distances. Adding some Cane Creek like bar ends or some Ergon grips go a long way to fight fatigue and offer a differing hand position. And probably the most damning statement is that not everyone is comfortable riding drop bars- hate to see you spend your money on one particular cockpit configuration because you're obsessed with the look and find out in reality that maybe it wasn't meant to be.

BD offers a great value for those who are comfortable doing their own wrenching or at least doing their own sizing. You stated your size (height and inseam)- but not what frame size that you need. That makes me believe that you're a novice and would be better served by an LBS. Or at least ride as many bikes at the LBS as you can to give you a better understanding of what size and type fits you the best.

10 Wheels

Get that one ^ ^^ ^

kevbo

I run drops on my "road burner" but I like trekking (aka butterfly) bars on my other bikes. The forward position is about halfway between hoods and drops, and the rear position is a little more upright than the tops.

megalowmatt

I would go for the Tourist.

If you had @ $700 I would second the suggestion to build up one of the Nashbar touring frames but with your STI requirement that still probably won't be enough.

I recently put one together...here's the thread with the specifics:

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ng-Frame-Build

10 Wheels

My friend now has 63,000 miles on his Windsor Tourist.

megalowmatt

10 Wheels - that's a great picture but if you want people's eyes to be drawn to the guy with the bike, some cropping may be necessary.

fietsbob

Present these questions to a bike shop, yet, and test ride what is on the sales floor?

in order to get drop bars to be tall,
By that do you mean the top of the bars higher than or level with your saddle height?

forks are cut when bike is boxed at the factory, if taller than that is needed,
then changes of many parts must be done, as cables may not reach new height.

A10K

I second the cyclocross option, since there are very few touring-specific bikes that come with STI's. If most of your trips will be within 5 miles, flat bars are a good choice too. This weird/awesome monstrosity is the best of both worlds:


Also, whatever you budget, you need to leave at least 100-150 for necessary accessories to get started: Helmet, Lock, Tire Levers, Pump, Patch Kit, Tire Levers, Front and Rear Light, Hex Set. These aren't just necessary for safety/repairs: the more confident/safer you feel on your bike, the further/more often you will ride it. It'll serve you better than spending that same money on a more expensive bike that you'll never take past walking distance from the nearest bike shop/house.