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Is Fixing A Flat On A Wheel With IGH As Big A Pain In The Tuckus As I Think It Is?

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Is Fixing A Flat On A Wheel With IGH As Big A Pain In The Tuckus As I Think It Is?

Old 01-25-12, 11:37 PM
  #26  
tjspiel
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I have a Nexus redband and found you don't even need the 2mm allen key. I shift to 1st (cable is then at it's slackest) and then pull the cable housing out of one of the cable stops. On my bike (and many others), the cable stops are slotted so you can easily get the inner cable in and out.

With the cable housing removed from one of the stops there is plenty enough slack in the cable so that the pinch bolt can rotate out of where it attaches to the hub.

I also have a roller brake and the reaction arm is bolted to the seat stay. I replaced the stock bolt with a hex head of similar size and replaced the stock nut with a wing nut. This makes it pretty easy to remove. Just have to be careful not to lose anything. Fietsbob's approach sounds even better.
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Old 01-26-12, 02:09 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Steely Dan View Post
i always thought that you're supposed to be in whatever gear is your direct drive gear when disengaging the shift cable from an IGH, which for my Alfine 8 is gear 5. that's always what i've done without issue.
Are you confusing this with the gear you ought to be in when calibrating the indexing?
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Old 01-26-12, 05:34 AM
  #28  
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You use to be able to buy inner tubes that were not circular, ie a long snake. These can be removed from the tyre without removing the wheel.
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Old 01-26-12, 06:09 AM
  #29  
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I've watched that first video 10 times now and he puts the Alfine in 4 to change it. I thought that's what you had to do to. Just watched this one:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxZXM4buaPI

He puts it in to 1st and also explains a bit about the coloured lock nuts.
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Old 01-26-12, 07:11 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by recumbenttoad View Post
I thought everything was supposed to be done in position '4'.
I thought so too, until I re-read the instructions which came with the bike. (Alfine 8)
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Old 01-26-12, 07:31 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by tcs View Post
On disconnecting the IGH shift cable: every IGH manufacturer, and many of the different models from a given manufacturer, have a different cable interface design. Disconnecting some designs is quite fiddly; others are very easy, fast and straightforward. A few release loose parts which have to be corralled.
The trick is remembering how to put the fiddly ones back together.
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Old 01-26-12, 07:40 AM
  #32  
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Yes it's harder than an external geared hub with QR, but not at all unmanageable.

I carry a wrench to undo the axel nut and a pair of bent nosed needle nose pliers to remove and reinstall the shift cable. I have also marked the shift cable nut with paint to denote where it should sit when in place.

I practiced a couple of times in my living room because my morning commutes are cold (this time of year) and dark. I did not want to learn how to do it on the side of the road in those conditions.

I have also taken the precaution of using a Michelin Krylion tire with a thicker tube to fend off some flats before they happen.
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Old 01-26-12, 04:14 PM
  #33  
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... plus I've painted the little nub where the spoke goes bright yellow ...

OK, now that is a great idea!

It is hard to find. In my garage, I often have to use a flashlight to find it.

I'm going to put a dab of yellow on the nub today.
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Old 01-26-12, 08:38 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by MichaelW View Post
You use to be able to buy inner tubes that were not circular, ie a long snake. These can be removed from the tyre without removing the wheel.
I've used them in 26X2.25 but I've never seen road sizes.
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Old 01-26-12, 09:57 PM
  #35  
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the length of this thread is ample evidence that it's non-trivial. when I was riding an iGH I lived in fear of flats. that's the major reason I don't ride it much anymore
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Old 01-26-12, 10:00 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by mtalinm View Post
the length of this thread is ample evidence that it's non-trivial.
lol, well to be fair, I think a lot of us would consider changing a flat on a regular derailler bike as - not horribly difficult or anything - but "non-trivial" as well. :-)
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Old 01-26-12, 10:24 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by mtalinm View Post
the length of this thread is ample evidence that it's non-trivial. when I was riding an iGH I lived in fear of flats. that's the major reason I don't ride it much anymore
actually, the length of this thread is ample evidence that not all IGH's (and their integration with the frame and braking system) are the same. Some IGH wheels are relatively quick and easy to remove and others more complex. My Alfine 8 IGH bike has vertical dropouts with an EBB and disc brakes. Loosening the axle nuts and disengaging the shift cable adds about 30 seconds to rear wheel removal compared to a more convential QR set-up on a dérailleur bike. I do not live in fear of flats on my IGH bike.
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Old 01-27-12, 06:19 PM
  #38  
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Is fixing a flat on a wheel with IGH as big a pain in the Tuckus as I think it is?

Yes.
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Old 01-27-12, 09:24 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Bekologist View Post
this. tough tires, and fix it with tire still on bike if practicable. I haven't lived in the netherlands but AFAIK, fixing flats on IGH bikes WITHOUT removing the rear wheel is a common method there, even in bike shops.
That's my approach, too, on my Bianchi Milano. Also what the patch-wallahs did when I got flats on my pushrod-brake one-speed in India. (Nobody bothered carrying a patch kit in the city, there's almost always someone nearby waiting to fix your flats for you, without having to get your hands dirty. I didn't even own a bike pump of my own.)
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Old 01-27-12, 09:39 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by woodway View Post
Unmount the tire. Cut the old tube off. Cut the new tube opposite the valve, thread it inside the frame, tie the two ends together with a square knot and remount the tire and inflate. You'll get used to the thumping.
Love it! Used to commute a lot on Okinawa -- regular hubs but I got real good at patching without removing the wheels!!
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