I'd get a cross bike or something similar. Road hybrid, tourer, etc.

Barring that, I run 26x1.25 slicks on my MTB which I use for foul weather commuting. My commute sounds similar 9-10 miles, with more hills on the return leg. You could flip the stem, reduce the number of spacers or even change the angle of the handlebar for a more aero position but that will only help you go faster into a headwind or when you're already going fast. I much prefer having barends but mostly for comfort. Having a smaller gear (11t) in the back will give you a higher top speed although changing the large chainring will do more than changing the cassette.

I wouldn't bother reducing the weight of the bike - it's a MTB so it'll be expensive and not that valuable.

I'll keep riding my bike for now and make the best of what I have for now while continuing to make little tweaks and adjustments here and there. I won't bother with the chain rings just yet; instead I'll work on keeping my cadence up. My eyes will still be open and looking for a quality used road bike, in my size :lol:

Thanks again for all your opinions and advice on this (even about the peeing).

What doesn't kill me on my bike will make me stronger :D

I ride my XC bike as a commuter and all rounder when it is running 2.0 slicks and throw on the knobbies when I feel like getting dirty... it hits the curb at 23 pounds and I can keep pace with some fairly fast riders despite having some physical issues that have slowed me down a fair bit and warrants running some lower gears for climbing.

Biggest improvement is being able to get more aero on the bike and being able to spin like a gerbil on crack... most mtbs have sufficient gearing for higher speeds but suffer because they run fatter / slower tyres and are not as aerodynamic.

When I had a 1 by 8 drive... had no need for any lower gears.

http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikep...encommute1.JPG

Current set up... can swap to slicks and restore the rack when I need them.

http://www.ravingbikefiend.com/bikep...englenora1.JPG

I rode a century on this bike last fall before the knobbies went on... the folks I was with were amazed that a mountain bike with slicks could keep up to what was a brisk social pace.

Or you could just leave it as it is and coast downhills at 25-30 mph instead of 35-40 (or whatever). I rarely ever need gears higher than 80" or so and suspect that many commuters don't either.....unless you are griding your knees away at slow cadences (poor technique) or just really enjoy flying down hills (which I no longer do since having a bad accident during a race).

Just a thought -- whatever you like.

Grim: You assume too much.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=235331

This is a converted kiddie trailer I often pull on my commute, usually full of office supplies and groceries (on the way home). It's usually loaded to about 40-80 pounds.

No I don't pull it with the single speed I posted earlier in this thread -- I use a LHT with a triple crank 18"-84" gear range.

I commute year 'round, and would argue that the weight and wind along my commute is probably more intense than what you would experience on your own (or maybe not -- don't know, don't care). Also, the DC area is generally considered "rolling" terrain and is not flat by a long shot.

Maybe your idea of what an acceptable average speed for your commute is different from mine, but regardless -- I would be comfortable doing it with the OP's bike just the same as mine. Weight = no big deal.

Easier to spin up, harder to keep spun up.

I love my commuter's 48 x 11 :love: I rummaged around on BikePedia and it does look like the OP has a 42 x 14 high gear, good for an estimated 20mph @ 90rpm on a small 26" tire. No wonder he's asking about changing the gearing. The rear appears to be a freewheel, so the best bet for this bike would be one or both of these:

1. get a rear wheel that takes a cassette, and use a cassette with an 11-tooth cog. This also improves axle strength compared to a freewheel hub, a factor when carrying a load over the rear wheel and putting in lots of riding. This change brings the effective top speed to over 25mph @ 90rpm. If the cogs are worn, a new chain may be needed too. For an affordable wheel with a durable rim, look for something with a Weinmann ZAC19 rim, they're a good value.

2. get a crankset with a 48-tooth big ring. One of these combined with a 113mm UN-54 bottom bracket would work. Heavy, but cheap. This change brings the effective top speed to 23mph @ 90rpm. Because of the larger chainrings, a new chain will probably be necessary.

Both changes combined put you over 29mph @ 90rpm. But the bike will still be a couple sizes small, so in the big picture, the value proposition of those changes is debatable. Keep your eyes open for a different bike. Try for one with a Shimano cassette-type rear wheel so you're not painted into a corner with respect to gearing.

My commute is just long enough to make it to work before I need to go, and that really motivates me when I'm cutting it close!

Since the OP is specifically looking for ways to increase his speed, I'm inclined to agree that the gearing on his bike is too low. My rigid framed MTB from the 90's has a 48 T large chainring so I was surprised that his bike only has a 42. Obviously it was designed for comfort more than speed which is fine, -unless you want more speed.

20 mph at 90 rpm just isn't enough if you care at all about going fast.

Is this a joke? I start pedaling in 70-80 gear inches.

based on your height I would estimate you'd fit a 19-21" frame, current bike is too small.

Look up 'soma sparrow' handlebars, mount those on a 150mm+ stem down low. Will let you get lower for speed, but still have good control. Also will let your current brake levers/shifters directly transfer over, possibly without needing to recable. Should you change over to a road bike in the future will also mount road levers.

If I were to buy a new bike in the not-too-distant future, what're some things I should really be on the look out for? What're your experiences with buying from Craigslist, LBS, or other?

(I got hold of a set of bar ends today, and I must say how much more comfortable it is having multiple hand-placements!)

1. you want something that isn't a dead-end obsolete platform, so pick a bike with at least a 7-speed Shimano Hyperglide rear cassette.

2. make sure it's actually a cassette rear hub, not a freewheel rear hub. Cassette hubs have better bearing support to resist axle bending/breakage, and there's more gearing options available for cassette setups.

3. Given your interest in higher performance on a 1h45min round-trip commute, the closer-spaced gearing options of a 9-speed rear, or even 10sp, would have benefits... with more gears between a given high & low gear, the jumps from one gear to the next can be smaller, so you stay closer to your optimal pedalling cadence.

4. Bike condition is not easy for a novice to determine. I've seen many people march in with their new prize they bought used, only to give them bad news: it's a Frankenbike (pieced together from multiple bikes, often not compatible with eachother), or it has serious frame/fork damage they didn't know how to recognize, or it has shot bearings or dented rims, or worn-out drivetrain, and so forth. And in the end, the cost of setting it right is sometimes prohibitive. So if you have a trustworthy LBS, consider taking any prospective used purchases to them for a quick glance.

So do I... when I am riding my SS or fixed gear bicycles which are geared between 72-80 gear inches.

Nope. My SS runs a 66" gear, and honestly I'd prefer closer to 62". I've never thought I'd prefer it higher. On my surly, loaded with the day's usual items, I don't think I've ever used higher than an 81". With the terrain and weight I usually carry, while keeping a good cadence, I have no need of high gears. Occasionally I use the 18" though. Maybe you guys are much faster than I am...?

It's generally either dark or nearly dark during most of my commute and I don't push it down hills.

Not too much to add to the bike conversation that hasn't been said, but my $0.02. If you are looking for a more nejotyable ride, definitely invest in some slick tires (unless your commute involves off-road sections). You gain a little bit of speed, but it feels much better. Easily the best upgrade you can make to your current ride to maximize enjoyment.

You can also buy a longer seatpost. This works great if you only need a tiny bit more than your current seatpost can give. Granted, your current bike is probably too small, but if you don't want to buy a new one, getting a seatpost extension will help your comfort level. I added a longer seatpost to my Mountain bike to get another 1/2" of leg extension & it worked great. total cost was $17.

I agree that a solid fork would increase your riding efficiency & make a difference in your speed, but it would definitely cost a few $. If you plan to keep this bike, it might be worth it. If you are looking to upgrade in the near term, it's probably not worth it. If you have a lockout on the shock, definitely use that. If you have a bike co-op in your area, you may be able to get a new fork relativley inexpensively.

As to your question about panniers/backapcks, there are lots of people here who use panniers & love them. I am definitely in the backpack camp, but I do strap mine to the rear rack when I ride & then just throw it on my back when I get to work. This solution gives the almost all of the benefits of a pannier, with almost none of the drawbacks. YMMV.

I've done whole commutes @ 59-64" and thought it was a fine overall gearing. Can generally hit 23 MPH or so in that gear unless I've got a headwind against me.

I agree that 45 minutes for 12-13 miles when loaded for commuting is not bad for a lot of people. A bike even if loaded with only a change of clothes, lunch, and a small toolkit is going to feel more 'tank like' than the same bike unloaded. That rack is not usable with panniers, but a light pack securely strapped to that rack should be just fine. The center of gravity is going to depend more on your body weight and position than moving a light load a little bit lower. Going to clipless pedals really won't change that much overall. If you're never using the inner chainring, and spinning too fast in your highest gear, you might want to increase the size of your chainrings by 10 or 20 percent (each). Switching to a rigid fork may improve things. If your suspension is bouncing as you pedal, that energy could go toward movement. You can always go to lighter tires or (for more $$) wheels. Durability is often more of a priority than speed for a commuter bike.

Wouldn't that be spinning at over 120 rpms ? I personally could not sustain that for any length of time.

You might consider some lighter tires as well because they will make a noticable difference in accelleration, climbing and responsiveness. I like the MaxxLite 285s or 310s, Ikons or DTHs, but the MaxLites are the lightest.

I don't have a cadence meter, but I don't seem to be spinning too furiously to reach that speed.

As for what I can definitely sustain for long periods of time -- 19-20 MPH at a "Stayin' Alive" cadence. :thumb:

2 or even 5 extra lbs is simply not a big deal...and this is coming from someone who has two ~20 lb carbon fiber "commuters".

You might want to check your math:

http://sheldonbrown.com/gears/

"Stayin' Alive" is a 100 bpm cadence. (It's the song to use for chest compression speed in CPR.)

Which is an odd co-incidence:p..