Nashbar double-butted AL black frame
 

I shouldn't be doing this, but I'm itching for a new project. I came across Nashbar's BLACK frame, and based on the reviews, it seems to be of excellent quality for the price. My main question is does this frame have eyelets for a rear rack? It has disc tabs in the rear, but I'm wondering if there are eyelets if I want to run V-brakes and use a rear rack? I'm also looking at the Sette Reken, which is priced the same. Looks a bit better, but it does not look like a good commuter build due to the fact that I don't see anything that indicates it will support a rear rack. Argggh, I shouldn't be looking at either bikes!

Is this the MTB frame? That's what I have built my commuter and tourer around. The frame is incredible quality for the price. Everything from welds, braze-ons to paint is top notch and seems indestructible. My commuter is barely scratched after 2+ years of almost daily commuting. They usually go for $89, sometimes you can get free shipping too. They used to have a matching rigid fork too for that frame too, but it didn't have braze-ons for a rack. I used a Surly fork with one of them.

The rear dropout has disc brake tab and separate holes for fenders and rack. They are threaded holes in the plate, not braze-ons so they won't snap off under load like my Kona Sutra did. You will need a disc compatible rack though, since the disc brake tab position is the traditional one, in the back. I use Topeak Super Tourist DX, it's a perfect match. So if you use V brakes, there won't be a problem, any rack should fit. There are holes for the rear rack on the seat stays as well, everything you need for fender mount and two water bottle mounts. All cables run along the top tube and the braze-ons for the rear brake are for hydro hoses so you will need inserts for regular cables (new frame comes with them). There is room for center mounted kickstand as well.

The frame is slightly longer than my other MTB but you will still need a rack that allows to put panniers further back to avoid heel strike.

Unfortunately, I only have some shots of the entire bike, no details. Here it is, it has changed a bit since then. Here is the Kommuter on light touring duty. The touring bike is pretty much identical except it has better wheels and better components. And here it is on hauling duty, it has less stickers since then :o And I only have one shot of the touring bike, lightly loaded for a weekend ride.

I like these frames a lot. I don't plan to replace them any time soon. I've been itching to get the Troll though, so who knows. I might replace the tourer's frame with Troll, just because.

If you want I can take a closeup shot of the rear dropout for you.

Thanks, AdamDZ! Exactly what I wanted to hear--wait, no, must resist! Yes, the double-butted black mtn frame is what I was looking at. Right now Nashbar has it for $99, but I'm hoping for a sale...soon.

Current dedicated commuter is a '97 Raleigh M50 cro-mo frame that I really like, but I'm digging the NB's lighter frame and the fact that it's all black and has a standard 1 1/8 head tube. If I can score a good deal on this frame, I want to swap everything from the M50 to it. So it should be a cheap project. As long as I can use the Nashbar LTD rack I have, I'm happy. I really don't want to buy any new thing that I already have but can't use because of harware issues. I plan to use V-brakes anyway.

Check their site often for sales. The second frame I got was around 100 shipped. I actually think it was $79 plus $20 shipping. If you need a good commuter bike this will work out nicely and your rack should fit. But I'm not saying you should buy this frame, no way! Resist... A little bit :)

I bought one of those a couple of years ago for $70 (I received a 30% off coupon when they realized everyone's cc card info had been compromised). I had some parts setting around that I wanted to use, so, I built a 1x8 commuter. The first incarnation was with narrow drop bars and a bar-end friction shifter. Hated it!!. I just did not feel comfortable with those bars at all. Next I put some straight bars (and I mean straight) on it with a friction thumb shifter. Much better, but it still wasn't floating my boat. Then I bought a set of cheap bars with a little rise and sweep along with a grip shifter. Wow, what a difference. I actually think this is now the most fun bike to ride that I've had in a while.

I have an old Blackburn Mountain rack on it and fenders. I used cantilever brakes, so, the rack worked just fine. The only thing that I wish was different is the fork. I used a Nashbar fork that I had picked up cheap several years ago because I was tired of it taking up space. The crown to axle distance is 453mm. I think this makes the front end a little floppy, but I'm used to it now. I would have liked to have had a fork with a crown to axle distance about 30mm less than the one I have. Other than that I have no complaints. It's made well and looks really good for a $70 frame. I thought about putting some decals on it but I kind of like it unidentifiable.

Thanks for the help, Adam. If it's not any trouble, a close up of the rear drop-outs would be nice. I was wondering if you used a cro-mo or an aluminum fork. How does steel fork work with AL frame? Based on pics I've seen, looks like the Nashbar cyclocross frame is more of a matte black. Is the mtn frame more of a gloss black? Looks to be that in your pics. I could be wrong though. Also, what kind of fenders are those on your bike?