Cross Check frame build advice?
 

I was planning on ordering a complete Cross Check and upgrading certain parts when it came in to my LBS (like changing the saddle to a Brooks), but threads like this one got me to think about doing a frame-up build and put the parts I'd want on there the first time. A complete CC is $1150 + $100 for the Brooks saddle so $1250 (before taxes).

For a frame-up build, this is what I've come up with in terms of a components ($1450 before taxes, includes CC frame):

Drivetrain...
Shimano XT front derailleur.
Shimano XT rear derailleur.
Shimano SLX crankset (w/BB, 42-32-24).
Shimano SLX 10 spd cassette (11-34).
Shimano Dura-Ace bar end shifters.

Brakes...
Tektro CR720 cantilever brakes.
Tektro 520 brake levers.

Wheels/Tires:
Mavic Aksium wheelset.
Kenda Happy Medium Cyclocross Tire 700C X 32.

Misc...
Brooks B17 saddle.
Easton EA50 handlebars.
Cane Creek 'Tank Jump' headset.
cables, seatpost, chain, etc.

I can replace and adjust brake/derailleur cables and install cranksets, but I am no parts expert when it comes to the what kind of parts are better than others. So if anyone would like to offer some advice on the parts I've choosen it would definitely be welcomed.

The bike is going to be a 50/50 of on-road vs trail riding while commuting and heading out for fun rides.

Sounds like a beefy build you got there. I'm sort of thinking.. save the $$ beat the heck out of the stock build and change parts as needed.
You might find that you don't need the extra 12 gears that your scenerio will have.
Is it super hilly where you live?

Also, those Aksium wheelsets appear to be more geared towards road riding and light weight. 20/28 spokes seems sorta weak to be bouncing around trails IMO.

With that said, my build is as follows (it has changed many times...as I'm sure you'll do the same..hence my suggestion to starting stock).
CX mode
cr720 up front/oryx in the back (both have kool stop salmon pads)
campy ergo 9 paired with ultegra rear derailleur
mavic open pro 32h
1x9 build with stock andel crank, eye watcher, outer chain guard
shimano m520 pedals
wtb saddle

summer noodling mode
nitto moustache handlebars/tektro brake levers/cloth tape shellaced
cr720 front/back
ultegra rear d
shimano exacge front derailleur
bar end shifter mounted diacompe silver shifters
marathon tires
fenders
wald front basket mounted on a canti mount rack
brass bell
brooks saddle
mks sylvan pedals (no cages, straps, or anything like that)

Have you built a bike up from the frame before?

Take the number you think it will cost and multiply by 1.25 at least......in my experience

That's funny - I was just going to post that a lot of your component list was what I used for my recent build then I noticed the link. I'm glad you got something out of it.

I think what you've got there looks good. Keep an eye on Jenson for sales and the free shipping deals. I also think the Tektros are a good choice.

Ultimately building yourself may be a little more expensive than buying a complete stock bike but for me I gained a lot of experience and knowledge...I don't plan on ever using a bike shop for service now and I know every inch of the bike.

Good luck!

A MTB crankset with Aksium wheels will give you a bad chainline. MTB cranksets expect a 135 rear wheel and put the chainline out accordingly.

The 520 brake levers are meant to work with linear pull brakes, and you should take advantage of that. Get some Avid Single Digit 7's. You'll like them much butter than the CR720s.

I personally think your gear sounds way too low for the type of riding that makes sense for a cyclocross bike. You either need a mountain bike or higher gearing, IMO.

Unless you've found a really good deal on the XT stuff, I'd just use the new M590 Deore components. You'll be surprised how well they work. Espcially in the front where you'll be using friction shifting (or a road FD) the extra expense of XT won't get you anything but bling.

I've got an older set of Aksiums and have been very happy with them. They're tough wheels. I don't know if the new ones are better or worse, so I'd check reviews on that. Mavic quality seems to fluctuate as they come out with new designs.

Consider a second set of wheels and tires so that you can use slicks on road.

Otherwise, it sounds like a great build.

Extremely hilly. I live/commute in the foothills area of Mission Viejo and Foothill Ranch, Ca. Some of the hills are borderline ridiculous in how steep they are. I also commute with a load of some kind. Either Carradice filled with work essentials, lunch, and snacks...or a trailer + daughter.

I've done a few builds from the frame up on a few bikes for myself and for friends. Most of them have been a mishmash of older, decent quality parts and newer, cheap as hell parts. My favorite build was my Bridgestone 400 built up using mostly Suntour GPX parts of the era along with a few modern parts. It was stolen a few months ago and the CC is going to be its 'replacement'.

This is the first build using all new components.

I really appreciated your post(s) in that thread. Its actually what got me thinking 'wait a darn sec, let me see what I can do here'. It also gave me some good ideas that I never thought of before (like using the Dremel for cutting housing). I knew I would be switching out the saddle, tires, and a few other things right off the bat if I went stock so I figured that the price wouldn't really apply if I bought the stock bike.

Thanks for the insight! And some good food for thought.
I switched out the canti's for v-brakes.

The gearing issue is a tricky one that I don't have an easy answer for. The Deore crankset is offered in 48-36-26 which gives a little higher gearing.

Yes, gearing can be tricky. What size gears do you expect to use most?

I'm about to replace my stock CC crank with the 48-36-26 Deore set, as I, too, need a granny for hills & kid trailers (it's not too hilly here, but my kid really dislikes the bike & trailer lunging forward with each downstroke when going uphill in a too-high gear). With the 48-36-26 crankset and 11-34 cassette, I expect to spend most of my time in the middle ring and the 5th and 6th cogs; with a 44-32-22 I'd spend most of my time in middle/6-7 or large/4-5, neither of which has a nice chainline. I like to gear my bikes so that I'll rarely need the smallest rear cogs since smaller cogs wear out faster.

Note that Shimano's techdocs Safety Information sheets say you should expect the chain to rub the FD cage or large chainring(!) if you use the middle chainring with either of the two smallest rear cogs.

-Peter

Please keep us posted with the build.

I definitely will. I am refining as I go and learn...especially ideal gear ranges and what kind/model of parts work for road and trail riding. When everything is in place I'll definite make a posting. I have decided to go with a 9spd drivetrain instead of a 10 and will be putting the money I'm saving (I can get good quality 9spd stuff for cheap if I don't mind it being from '08 or '09) toward a custom built wheelset.

Actually one of the first mini-tours (or really long rides) I plan to take is to San Diego (I love that city) from South OC where I live and I plan to stop for the night in San Elijo no matter what.

why is your crank set geared so low? I would suggest a 48-36-26. Is there a reason you feel you need it that low?

good call on going to a 9 speed instead of 10 speed. The savings from that will do you much better in the wheel set.

Hey, Peter
How many miles have you put on your Andel crank set? I read in another thread that crank sets don't need to be replaced for 30,000-35,000 miles. At the rate, I'm going...that'll be another 6 years.

Very few -- maybe 600. I'm replacing the crank in part because it's longer than I'm accustomed to. See my Mechanics thread on toe clip overlap. Turns out that every other bike in my stable except my old MTB runs 170mm cranks (I thought my racer ran 172.5 and my tourer 175, but both actually use 170). I started pricing traditional 74/110 BCD triple cranks (I think the one from Velo Orange looks really nice), and it looked like I could get a "modern" Deore triple for less than many of the 74/110 options, so I decided to give it a try.

I don't have any complaints about the Andel crank; it certainly is much more attractive than the painted M591 that I bought to replace it.

fyi to the OP.. if you are also trying to save some cash and go with the 48/36/? crankset, the stock surly crank has provisions to mount a granny gear on it. You might have to get a longer bb spindle (or not...)

Yea I noticed that it is very hard to find a 48/36/26 with silver accents. Apparently, the industry thinks cyclocross and mountain bikers want sand blasted black finishes on their components or maybe they do. I thought I found a silver Velo Orange crank set with 48/36/26 chain rings but I can't remember if it was expensive.

Just my two cent, but the biggest reason why I ended up building a Cross Check for my wife instead of buying one complete was to get away from the bar end shifters. So obviously I find it a little odd to go through all the trouble and expense of a build but still use bar ends. I also am not a fan of the Mavic Askiums on a Cross Check. They just don't seem to go with the style at all, I mean a Brooks saddle with Askiums, really? If I was happy with bar ends I'd definitely just get the complete and change a few things. Then again it isn't as much fun as building something.

I love bar end shifters. There!

Hey Peter, on the Deore M591...is it the blast black finish on the crank arms that you dislike? The M590 has the option of silver or black, still researching the difference in component quality, though...I know Deore is only a step above Alivio. I would like to find something with silver crank arms, 48/36/26, 9 speed compatible in the SLX or XT range. Am I asking for too much? Should I just settle with the Deore M590?

Very cool! I have a route I take on my road bike that brings me through San Elijo/Elfin Forest.

It's the painted finish, yes. I much prefer polished silver, but nowadays even most silver components are painted rather than polished. IIRC, the M590 has 44t or 42t -- the M591 is the Deore level w/ trekking 48t rings. I didn't come across any M591 with silver arms.

You've got a few options. You could stick w/ square taper and get a Sugino XD600 or Velo Orange. Rivendell also has a nice-looking Sugino triple (the XD2). For modern Shimano cranks, the LX T661 is offered w/ 48-36-26.

Yea, as far as the list of attributes I would like in a crank set...I've noticed the Velo-Orange triple crank set, the Sugino XD600, and the Shimano M590. I have no idea how to judge the quality of Sugino and Velo Orange. I barely know SRAM. I just feel comfortable with Shimano. Maybe one day I'll try another brand. Anyways, I did find a Shimano Deore 48/36/26 with silver crank arms. I didn't know that some silver components were painted rather than polished, though. Good to know...

OP: if silver components and 48/36/26 is your thing, you should definitely buy this Shimano Deore LX crank set for $118, hell of a deal. It's above Deore and below XT in their trekking/touring group. Just wiki Shimano for a better explanation of Shimano's technology and component hierarchy. Thanks for tipping me off to this component, Peter. Nice find!

OP, love your ideas for the build. Some of this is a repeat of what others have said.

I would opt for some higher zoot bars, CompCyclist had EA70s not too long ago for $30, but are not gone. I recently got a set of FSA Compact Wings and they are GREAT. Point is, it's not hard to find nicer bars for cheap. Compact bars with slightly flared drops works well on your build.

Unless you are going to pound away your cranks on trails, I would opt for a road triple. It'd be lighter and sleeker. I know gearing is personal, but I'm not a triple person. I find that a wide range cassette and compact cross gearing is suited for any terrain.

Wheels: consider A-23 rims with a higher spoke count. Choose hubs according to how much abuse you want to put your bike through. If you are ok with getting middle of the road hubs, consider Tiagra. Great value. If you want to move into higher zoot, go 105. Go with higher end Deore otherwise.

What about fenders? Velo-Orange has very nice aluminum offerings.

Seatpost - Thomson.

I'm looking into upgraded bars right now. I'm broad in the shoulders and 46's are the only way to go for me so I'm looking at different options. That EA50 was in my size and dirt cheap ($15 at JensonUSA) so that's how it made it into the initial build list. Right now I'm looking at the VO Rando bars or something similar.


The build has changed a lot since I made the original post thanks to the insight offered here. I'll post it in a little while. Bar end shifters are still there but the Aksiums are not. I also had to get a little better education as to what kind of parts hold up for offroad/trails and general commuting since my knowledge of what is what is kind of dated (back to the 1980's a la Shimano 600 and old-Suntour).

I also didn't like the 'black is the new black' the bike had taken on...so that changed.

I'm using Ksyrium Elites on my Crosscheck and they hold up well, so I disagree with the comments saying to go for a higher spoke count. I do limited offroading and I wouldn't ride my bike down a flight of stairs, but for commuting they seem to do just fine.

Why do you disagree? Spoke count is the prime measure for wheel strength. Ksyrium Elites are training/race wheels. While they may work for you for commuting, there are much better options for it. Plus, I have beef with Ksyriums because of their proprietary parts. I mean no offense, but I don't see your rationale here.