Cross check commuter build
 

I am trying to build a commuter / light tourer / gravel road rider. I wanted to go with a salsa vaya, but the build is going to cost too much.

My back up plan is a surly cross check. I happen to already have a set of 32 hole deep v wheels with shimano 105 hubs so going this way will save me the cost of new wheels.

My lbs has a used apex crank and a used set of rival gear mi us the rim brakes. So I can get a apex / rival power train in a 50/34 175 crank with the 11/32 cassette.

I need to buy all the other comps off the Internet at close out type places and assemble this myself to make the dollars work.

Does anyone have any experience with this sort of build? If so can you point me to some sources for the remaining parts and, for that matter what are the remain parts?

I get I need canti brakes, seat post, seat, pedals, but not sure ifmthemframe comes with a seat post clamp and a headset or not, and I need a stem and handlebar


Any specific advice would be appreciated (am getting a surly rear rack from the local bike shop along with the frame..

The frameset comes w/seat binder clamp, but not a headset. What frame size are you in need of? I'm building up a disc trucker and have a 56cm cross check.

Sorry 62

Couple of small items you might need for your build (and a couple of my "on the cheap" comments):
front and rear brake cable stops (they dont come with the frame or cantis) I have a front one if you are interested.
downtube cable stops (put a wtb on craigs or go to the shops..they usually have them laying in a drawer from their STI installs/builds)
cables/housing (probikekit sells stuff by the meter..free shipping)
bar tape?
tektro oryx or cr720 cantis (maybe pick up some kool stop salmon pads..i might have the cartridge types if you go with these cantis)
spacers for your threadless stem
headset

I've been riding a 56cm Cross-Check for a few years. I have no idea if my handling issues for a 220lb rider on 56cm cross-check would extend to your size/use. What I found was that a heavy rear pannier load could make the front end shimmy with one hand on the bars. I've got drop bars set up with 1" drop from seat height. I've had a ToPeak, Tubus Cargo, Tubus Logo, Axiom Streamliner DLX rear racks on the bike. Of all of those I found the Streamliner DLX with rack mounted on far aft eyelet to provide the best handling with panniers. Only problem is that the stock Axiom seat stay struts don't fit with the fender space available so I use regular ss. straps. It's an effing solid/stiff rack setup.

I'm using Ortlieb Sport Packer Plus panniers. The wide rear racks seemed to exacerbate the tail wagging feeling when riding out of the saddle with loaded panniers. I ride with panniers bungied down so there's a minimum of sway in the contents of the bags.
I could see that big Surly rack might be good for top mounted loads tucked as close to under the seat but if you're thinking of pannier sized loads consider a small front rack. The CC handles much better with a load on the front when the load on the rear gets big.

Tektro CR-720s are inexpensive but excellent brakes, assuming you replace stock pads with KoolStops.

My Cross-Check commuter/brevet/gravel-grinder:

X-Check frame/fork
Velo-Orange headset/stainless fenders/front randonneur rack
Thomson seatpost/Profile Aris stem/Salsa M/A Bell Lap bars
Tektro R200 levers/Tektro CR720 brakes
Sun CR18 rims (32h) DT Spokes, SON28 front hub, IRO high flange rear (fix/fix)
SRAM S300 single crank with GXP BB/Shimano MX freewheel/SRAM PC-1 chain
Nashbar house brand SPD pedals
Bagman support rack/Carradice Pendle/Berthoud GB28 front bag
Kool-Stop pads/Panaracer Urban Max 32mm tires/Cinelli glow-in-the-dark bar tape

I purchase my stuff from a variety of sources locally and online, but my favourites (online) are:
Bikeman and Nashbar

You should consider getting the headset from your LBS. Unless you are going to install it yourself with a DIY tool, you probably won't save enough on the Internet to make up the difference in shipping+labor. I built my Cross Check with a Cane Creek S3 headset and that has been very solid at a low price. Unfortunately, Cane Creek has changed their naming scheme, so I don't know what the current equivalent is.

You should also see if the LBS will give you a loaner stem until you dial in your fit and cut the steerer. Again, buying the stem from them will grease that process.

Some say you should have the bottom bracket faced before installed the crank.

Something like a handlebar you ought to be able to find cheap or free by asking around in the local cycling community. I know I usually have one on the shelf that I don't intend to use.

If you can avoid it, I wouldn't go cheap on the cables. The Jagwire Racer set is nice and performs well.

The Tektro CR720's are definitely the best for the price.

A cheap seatpost is generally close to the cost of shipping, so the LBS might be competitive there too if you aren't sourcing it from a discounter with other stuff. You need 27.2 for the Cross Check. Kalloy makes some cheap seat posts that work well enough until you have the budget for a Thomson. Sometimes you can find two-bolt Eastons online at closeout prices.

A cross check frame is not cheap. If I was in your shoes, I'd go for something like Nashbar's steel cross bike, which you can get complete at a pretty good price. Since it is mail order, you'll still get the build experience.