Pedal Wrench?
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Pedal Wrench?
I'm making the leap to clipless - I'm planning on ordering SPD shoes and dual-sided pedals because I only have (and want) one bicycle, and use it for long pleasure rides and commuting/toodling around town.
I was reading the chapter in my Zinn Roadbike book, and in it he talks about needing a pedal wrench to install road bike pedals, gives the size as 15mm. Is there something special about wrenches sold as "pedal" wrenches, or can I use the 15 mm crescent wrench I already have?
I was reading the chapter in my Zinn Roadbike book, and in it he talks about needing a pedal wrench to install road bike pedals, gives the size as 15mm. Is there something special about wrenches sold as "pedal" wrenches, or can I use the 15 mm crescent wrench I already have?
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In my experience the jaws of the crescent wrench might be too thick to fit between the crank arm and the body (axle) of the pedal. A pedal wrench is quite a bit thinner so it doesn't have that problem and some of them have longer handles to provide you with more leverage when removing the old pedals and installing the new ones.
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The "special" think about them is they're thin. I've had a hard time with some pedals with a crescent wrench not fitting between the pedal and the crank arm.
Edit: choclabman beat me to it.
Edit: choclabman beat me to it.
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Thanks for the info! There's some available from amazon for ~$10, so I'll just throw one on my order. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't buying something that I already had.
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They are quite useful. I bought one over 25 years ago and still use it regularly. Yeah, as stated above they are thinner and longer than a knuckle-buster or open end wrench.
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I have 3 different models of SPD pedals on 3 bikes, and all of them take a hex key from the back which is what I use. Only one or two of them even have wrench flats.
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I wasn't clear about your need for a pedal wrench. Is it just so you can install the new pedals or is it needed so you can be switching to the appropriate pedal for the ride? If it's needed for constant switching, you might consider MKS quick release pedals. You can switch pedals without a wrench with those. An added benefit is theft deterrent as you can easily take your pedals when you lock up your bike, if the thief wants to ride away on the stolen bike, they are out of luck.
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No, not planning on switching pedals often - that's why I'm getting the dual sided ones, so I can still hop on the bike for a quick trip to the store.
For theft deterrent, other than my lock, I take the saddle with me. But I live in a really low crime small town - my bike is the only one I've ever seen locked up, actually.
For theft deterrent, other than my lock, I take the saddle with me. But I live in a really low crime small town - my bike is the only one I've ever seen locked up, actually.
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1/8" thick 15mm is a pedal wrench spec .. sold for decades,
with a loose ball BB fixed cup box wrench on the other side.
but yes a lot of pedals use a 6mm hex so a long allen wrench is also needed.
my Ergon use an 8mm Allen, the left one on my Brompton
a folding pedal needs a 24mm socket.
with a loose ball BB fixed cup box wrench on the other side.
but yes a lot of pedals use a 6mm hex so a long allen wrench is also needed.
my Ergon use an 8mm Allen, the left one on my Brompton
a folding pedal needs a 24mm socket.
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note some pedals are 15 mm and others are 9/16" my Park pedal wrench has both sizes. also remember Left hand pedals are reverse thread...ie lefty tighty
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everything I've ever worked on is 15mm.
I've bent more "pedal wrenches" up - they're usually made out of crap stamped steel, even the so-called good ones. You get a really stuck pedal that's been riding over slushy salty roads all winter, and you have to literally jump up and down on the sucker to break it loose.
I finally went and bought a decent 15mm drop-forged open-end wrench and ground it down a bit to make it thinner.
I've bent more "pedal wrenches" up - they're usually made out of crap stamped steel, even the so-called good ones. You get a really stuck pedal that's been riding over slushy salty roads all winter, and you have to literally jump up and down on the sucker to break it loose.
I finally went and bought a decent 15mm drop-forged open-end wrench and ground it down a bit to make it thinner.
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everything I've ever worked on is 15mm.
I've bent more "pedal wrenches" up - they're usually made out of crap stamped steel, even the so-called good ones. You get a really stuck pedal that's been riding over slushy salty roads all winter, and you have to literally jump up and down on the sucker to break it loose.
I finally went and bought a decent 15mm drop-forged open-end wrench and ground it down a bit to make it thinner.
I've bent more "pedal wrenches" up - they're usually made out of crap stamped steel, even the so-called good ones. You get a really stuck pedal that's been riding over slushy salty roads all winter, and you have to literally jump up and down on the sucker to break it loose.
I finally went and bought a decent 15mm drop-forged open-end wrench and ground it down a bit to make it thinner.
Also, many 1/2" threaded pedals on older C&V bikes (usually with one-piece cranks) do use a 9/16" wrench, so a 15mm x 9/16" wrench is handy to keep around if you work on older bikes.
Last edited by Stealthammer; 04-19-12 at 04:13 PM.
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Go figure.

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everything I've ever worked on is 15mm.
I've bent more "pedal wrenches" up - they're usually made out of crap stamped steel, even the so-called good ones. You get a really stuck pedal that's been riding over slushy salty roads all winter, and you have to literally jump up and down on the sucker to break it loose.
I finally went and bought a decent 15mm drop-forged open-end wrench and ground it down a bit to make it thinner.
I've bent more "pedal wrenches" up - they're usually made out of crap stamped steel, even the so-called good ones. You get a really stuck pedal that's been riding over slushy salty roads all winter, and you have to literally jump up and down on the sucker to break it loose.
I finally went and bought a decent 15mm drop-forged open-end wrench and ground it down a bit to make it thinner.
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Steel is real, baby!
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haven't managed to break the Park yet. great tool. and as only one of my bikes has QR's, the long handled 15mm is multipurpose.
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I have the smaller Park pedal wrench. I'm probably not strong enough to break it :-) I could only get one pedal out. But the Liquid Wrench did the trick with the second pedal. If you purchase the Shimano M520/M540, you will need a pedal wrench. Some of the higher end models seem to only take a XXmm allen wrench. It's pretty beefy, maybe 15mm? It's bigger than the useless allen wrench on the M520. And don't forget to grease the pedals before installing them.
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The best post I saw gave this advice: If you have the pedal wrench at the 12 oclock position, you turn the wrench toward the rear of the bike to remove the pedal.
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Thanks for the tip! I'm ambidextrous so I have a REALLY hard time remembering things when put into terms of "right" and "left" (I still have to do the L thing with my fingers to remember sometimes when driving) - turning towards the rear of the bicycle makes total sense to me, though.