Cross/Commuter Disc Build
 

Hi everyone, I'm new to posting here, but I've been reading great advice for a long time. Thought I'd get some help with my latest build. I'm looking to build a disc-brake fast commuter, with a 1x10 setup, ~32mm tires, and upright bars. I have all-weather city and country riding in mind, 80/20 road/trail.

Just for some background, I am 185-190lbs, 6'3", and currently ride a 12-speed nishiki sport, and a townie fixie. Previously rode a drop-bar 105 cross check, very happy with it. I am going to build the bike up myself, but wanted to get your input, alternatives, and questions about my proposed build. Which is:

Frame: Soma Double Cross Disc 60cm
Fork: Soma Disc Fork
Hubs: DT 340 front + rear 32h 6 bolt
Rims: Velocity Fusion 32 hole
Spokes: Dt Butted
Tires: Conti Gatorskins 700x32
Cassette: Sram X7 PG-1050 11-32
Chain: Sram PG 1050
Front Derailleur: Paul Chain Keeper
Rear Derailleur: Sram X7 mid cage
Shifter: Sram X-7 10 spd (right lever only)
Front Crank: Sram Apex with a Salsa 44t single-speed ring
B.B.: giga pipe included
Brake Levers: Avid speed dial 7
Brake Calipers: Avid bb-7
Stem: Soma stem 25.4
Post: Soma seatpost
Saddle: Brooks B-17
Handlebar: Soma noah's arc (potential)
Headset: Chris King/IRD techno-glide
Grips: Oury Classic

I guess my major questions are:
-any big errors/mismatch (particularly between mountain cassette, road crank)?
-Still not sure about the crank - any decent-looking black single-speed cranks?
-will this wheelset (professionaly handbuilt) be strong enough?
-I'm used to shimano; should I choose XT/SLX over sram X7?

Thanks in advance everyone

Why single chainring? I admit I am an old geezer, but just to keep chain line issues to a minimun I would build it with three. I do sometimes need the granny to get up steep hills when I am hot and tired. I also consider 36 spokes minimum for me, but I am 6'2" and 265. I like the Fusion rims. They have enough depth to be stiff and strong, without the weight of the Deep V. I also really like the BB7 brakes. I put them on my Vaya and they work great. Even with the road version of the BB7 they pull a lot of cable. Be sure your brake levers are up to it. I prefer drop bars myself, but a few years ago I finally discovered in-line brake levers. I have them on all my bikes now. If you are going with flat bars, you will have the equivalent anyway. I have been sitting my butt on Brooks B-17 seats for over 40 yrs. They take break-in, but it is worth it. When I was commuting by bike, the route I took had lots of tree roots and frost heaves to contend with. I needed the fattest tires I could get to keep from damaging rims. 700x37c worked for me. You are lighter and if your route is smoother, 32 should be fine. Looks cool!

I would not build a 1by10 commuter to be ridden daily,
unless your job is very highly paid.
the cassettes and chains are really expensive, and you will wear thru many.

8 speed cassettes and chains are much more reasonably priced,
just get the ratio set you need for your terrain.

^^ feitsbob makes a lot of sense here.

Yup, I purposely built mine as a 7 speed for that reason.


http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/a...5/IMAG0217.jpg

I spend most of my time on the road (on a MTB), and wish that I that I had a trekking crank up front with a 48T large ring. Maybe you'll feel the same way.

Thanks for all of the help. ClemY - thanks for the help on the fusions, I think I'm settled on them. As for chainrings - I have normally run compact or road doubles, but here in philly, it's pretty flat. A 1x is attractive because I don't need a huge range, but also for the simplicity. Weight saved is minimal, but I'm planning to keep the compact double rings and shifter in case I change my mind.

Fietsbob wphamilton and dvc45 - I hear you, and will consider the 8speed options. nice build dvc45, I like the mullet job. What tires are those?

acidfast7 - thanks for the tip. I've got to nail down exactly what gearing I want, but good to hear from your experience on the road with a mtn.

Vittoria Rando at the rear and Vittoria Corsa in front. I just ordered a pair or Schwalbe for replacement.

I've recently gone down this road with the rebuild of my hybrid. My gearing choice (considering the same city as yourself - I'm moving to Philly soon) was a 48/34 double and 12-28 SRAM PG1050. That gives me a bunch of gears in the 16-22mph range where I live. It'll spend the vast majority of its' time on the 48 ring, essentially a single front with a concession to pulling a trailer at a later date.

SuperDave - I used to run a 34/50 and 11-28 here in Philly. It was easily more than enough, on both sides of the gear range. I think you've got a good setup planned - do you know what % spacing it is between gears on the sram cassette?

Currently, I'm thinking of running a 44t up front with 11-32 in back.. 37-108 gear inches. Still trying to figure out cranks. Does anyone know of a cheap, external BB crank that I can run a single ring and guard, or double rings (hoping for something like mr whirly, but nicer looking)? Hoping I don't have to buy a 105/rival crank and replace the rings...

Sounds a lot like Fairdale's Weekender. I really feel like you might as well go all out and do a IGH setup.

Banterbike, here's the chart for my gearing from Sheldon Brown (it's probably gonna take some editing - Firefox doesn't like this place for complex posts):

AHA! It wants Code tags instead of Quote tags.

I'm currently riding a triple (but only use the middle ring) so 42/11-32, and live in the 53-80 inch range. Never anywhere near either end of the cassette. Honestly, I'm almost certain to swap that 25t for a 24 or 23t; I want to see how the gearing works in Philly (Market Street above City Hall is steeper than anything I ride here) first. 48 was a reach for me, but my crankset can handle differing BCD's so I doubt gearing is going to be a real problem. Heck, the 34 ring has great ratios as well.

Heh. Just looked; I bought my crank (Sugino OX801D) from Japan because Soma, the sole US retailer, didn't offer the 48-34 I wanted. They do now, and at the same price I got it from Alex's Cycles. I love capitalism. :)

You're listing a solid build. Were it me, I'd reach upwards towards an X9 der - IMO the sweet spot between weight and durability - but it's gonna be a heck of a bike. The fork has been the chokepoint for my build - I've been riding a carbon fork for the last 8 years and I really don't want to add the disc and hang a 2-1/4lb steel fork off the headset as well - and it may be worth some thought for yourself too. The trouble is, good carbon disc forks are nearly half the weight of equivalent steel but there's so darn few of them. Kinesis, Whiskey and Carver are the only ones offering "affordable" disc-only carbon forks and they're all cross-oriented rather than road-oriented as you and I (judging from your tire choice) would prefer. Look into it, though, if something approaching $300 isn't a budget-breaker for a fork, because a carbon fork saves a s**t-ton of weight directly affecting the steering response when you've already chosen (like me) to hang extra weight on the front end.

I'm building the same bike as you - a disc-brake fast commuter - and these are the directions my thinking has taken me.

That's what I did. I'm in Chicago, also flat as a pancake.

Singular peregrine frame, shimano generator hub up front, an alfine 8 in back, drops. It's fun commuter, and fast enough for spirited riding. (I don't think I could keep up with a fast group ride on it, though.) Here it is, on the stand getting new bar tape.