Converting Road Bike to Commuter
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Converting Road Bike to Commuter
Hi everyone!
I am new to BikeForums so I don't know if I am posting to the right place. If I am, forgive me
I am moving back home within the next month and I have a road bike hanging in my garage that I rarely use. Wanting to give me more outing time, I wanted to convert it to a more casual, lowkey style of commuter that doesn't scream "expensive road bike!!".. Instead of selling it, I wanted to convert it by taking off its Trek frame (selling it) for a plain colored (unbranded) frame and saving its parts for a faster, smoother ride.
This may be a silly question but is it really just as simple as replacing the frame for another? Or is there a lot more to it that I am unaware of?
I am new to BikeForums so I don't know if I am posting to the right place. If I am, forgive me
I am moving back home within the next month and I have a road bike hanging in my garage that I rarely use. Wanting to give me more outing time, I wanted to convert it to a more casual, lowkey style of commuter that doesn't scream "expensive road bike!!".. Instead of selling it, I wanted to convert it by taking off its Trek frame (selling it) for a plain colored (unbranded) frame and saving its parts for a faster, smoother ride.
This may be a silly question but is it really just as simple as replacing the frame for another? Or is there a lot more to it that I am unaware of?
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Portland, Or
Posts: 570
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
As long as you're just going down one size it is that simple. Other things like switching to disc brakes, changing wheel size, etc can a bit more involved, but not really - bikes aren't that complicated to work on or maintain.
Unless you're going to lock the bike outside, I'd just ride the one you have. I have a few really nice bikes that I was "afraid" to ride and they just sat in the garage and collected dust. Decided this was a waste so I mounted fenders on them and ride them everyday now. As long as you maintain the bike, it'll last a long time. Wearing a bike out is a pretty good excuse to get a brand new one.
Theft would be the only reason I'd equip a beater or subdue your nice one. I'm lucky and have an indoor locked area at work for my bike and live within walking distance to the stores I shop at.
Unless you're going to lock the bike outside, I'd just ride the one you have. I have a few really nice bikes that I was "afraid" to ride and they just sat in the garage and collected dust. Decided this was a waste so I mounted fenders on them and ride them everyday now. As long as you maintain the bike, it'll last a long time. Wearing a bike out is a pretty good excuse to get a brand new one.
Theft would be the only reason I'd equip a beater or subdue your nice one. I'm lucky and have an indoor locked area at work for my bike and live within walking distance to the stores I shop at.
#4
working on my sandal tan
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CID
Posts: 22,625
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
Mentioned: 98 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3868 Post(s)
Liked 2,560 Times
in
1,574 Posts
Just buy an inexpensive bike for commuting if you're worried about the Trek.
https://www.velominati.com/the-rules/#12
https://www.velominati.com/the-rules/#12
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Alpharetta, GA
Posts: 15,280
Bikes: Nashbar Road
Mentioned: 71 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2934 Post(s)
Liked 341 Times
in
228 Posts
Starting with a generic sort of frame and fork, the Trek parts aren't going to give you a faster, smoother ride. Except for the wheels and tires. The most logical approach would be buy an inexpensive bike for the commuter and just move the wheels over, keeping the Trek intact for when you want to ride "expensive road bike".
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 86
Bikes: Iron Man
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I post a recent threat about this, I have a nice very fancy road bike hanging in the wall that I've been wanting to convert for commute. I had good responses that make me think before I start investing on making this bike a nice commute bike because of the concerns I had. So I made some research, I figure that I am not going to train or feel like I have to go fast every where I go however the terrain is flat but sometimes I find myself doing short cuts on parking lots and terrain that are uneven and my fancy bike will get flats all the time.
One person on the threat mention that why not keep that nice bike as a recreational bike because I was worried about theft so that kind of click on me and I rather buy a used bike and probably had a few fixes here and there to adapt the bike to commute. I'm working on getting one soon so hopefully I'll return the one I'm using that someone lend me and feel much better with my own.
Commuting have been a great experience so far.
One person on the threat mention that why not keep that nice bike as a recreational bike because I was worried about theft so that kind of click on me and I rather buy a used bike and probably had a few fixes here and there to adapt the bike to commute. I'm working on getting one soon so hopefully I'll return the one I'm using that someone lend me and feel much better with my own.
Commuting have been a great experience so far.
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I originally bought the road bike off craigslist without strict knowledge of fit so it turns out I bought a size too big. That is one big reason I stopped riding; it just didn't feel comfortable. Plus I've had a dream bike in mind with a Brooks seat and leather grips that I wanted to try converting my current road bike to give it some use, plus the components are something I wanted to keep because if I went bargain bike then there would be no way of getting that level of quality on my budget.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,968
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2473 Post(s)
Liked 722 Times
in
513 Posts
Plus I've had a dream bike in mind with a Brooks seat and leather grips that I wanted to try converting my current road bike to give it some use, plus the components are something I wanted to keep because if I went bargain bike then there would be no way of getting that level of quality on my budget.
H
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 8,101
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 52 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 16 Times
in
12 Posts
I think it depends on what frame you're starting with and where you want to go.
If what you have right now is a 700c drop-bar road bike and you're looking to switch to 26" wheeled fat-tire bike with straight bars, - you're going to run into some trouble. Shifters, brakes, and wheels probably won't work. A road front derailleur isn't going to work on a frame with top-tube cable routing unless you use a pulley. That doesn't leave you with many components to transfer and even if they functioned, they may not be what you want on that bike ultimately.
Instead, if you're planning to stay within the same family of bikes (road bike frame to road bike frame), you'll have less trouble.
If what you have right now is a 700c drop-bar road bike and you're looking to switch to 26" wheeled fat-tire bike with straight bars, - you're going to run into some trouble. Shifters, brakes, and wheels probably won't work. A road front derailleur isn't going to work on a frame with top-tube cable routing unless you use a pulley. That doesn't leave you with many components to transfer and even if they functioned, they may not be what you want on that bike ultimately.
Instead, if you're planning to stay within the same family of bikes (road bike frame to road bike frame), you'll have less trouble.
#12
aka: Mike J.
If you can make the frame size work for you, sometimes as simple as swapping out the stem to shorten the reach and maybe also raising the bars with a shorter and more angled stem, then the easiest way to subdue a fancy frame is to wrap it in electrical tape. Uglifies it, reduces the flash, subdues the brand/model name, and only adds minimal weight.
Searching for uglify found this thread:
https://www.bikeforums.net/archive/in.../t-815508.html
Not a direct answer though.
As noted above, sometimes swapping parts between frames is easy, and sometimes not so easy, just depends on how well the frames match up.
edit: what model is the current bike? I assume it is an aluminum frame. If you are thinking of going to a steel frame for a "smoother ride" as you put it then the swap may not be as easy. You need to check seatpost size/diameter, exterior seat tube diameter if you have a clamp-on front derailleur, brake mounts front and rear, cable routing, and other stuff. Is the current bike a threadless headset? If so then you'll want to match that with the new frame if you want to swap the stem over. Sometimes it is just easier to find a better fitting complete bike and then sell your current one to offset the cost. But if you are mechanically inclined and just want to do this then go for it and figure out stuff as you go along.
Searching for uglify found this thread:
https://www.bikeforums.net/archive/in.../t-815508.html
Not a direct answer though.
As noted above, sometimes swapping parts between frames is easy, and sometimes not so easy, just depends on how well the frames match up.
edit: what model is the current bike? I assume it is an aluminum frame. If you are thinking of going to a steel frame for a "smoother ride" as you put it then the swap may not be as easy. You need to check seatpost size/diameter, exterior seat tube diameter if you have a clamp-on front derailleur, brake mounts front and rear, cable routing, and other stuff. Is the current bike a threadless headset? If so then you'll want to match that with the new frame if you want to swap the stem over. Sometimes it is just easier to find a better fitting complete bike and then sell your current one to offset the cost. But if you are mechanically inclined and just want to do this then go for it and figure out stuff as you go along.
__________________
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Life happens, don't be a spectator.
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Life happens, don't be a spectator.
Last edited by treebound; 10-30-12 at 07:46 AM.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 205
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
When swapping frames, you need to look out for a couple things. Make sure the head tube is compatible with the fork you have. Most bikes of recent vintage use 1 1/8", older bikes used 1" and some higher end new bikes are going to "tapered" tubes which is 1 1/2" on the bottom, 1 1/8" on the top. Make sure the bottom bracket is compatible. English thread (BSA) is the most common. Unfortunately, there have been a proliferation of "improved" bottom bracket standards recently like BB30, etc where the shell is threadless and the bearings press in. You should match bottom bracket shell widths if possible too (68mm being most common), but usually you can compensate by adding/removing spacers. Last thing is seat tube diameter. This affects both the front derailleur clamp and the seat post, if the frames are different, these parts may not transfer over.
For the actual transferring, you'll need a few specialized tools too. You'll need a special tool to remove the headset from your current frame and another to press it into the new one. You can make your own or buy. You'll also need special tools for your crankset/bottom bracket. Which exact tools you need again depends on the design of the crankset.
It sounds a bit complicated, but it really isn't. If you have some mechanical aptitude, it's pretty easy to figure out and nice to know how to do these things on your own. On the other hand, if you have no experience or desire to work on your bikes, it might be something to take into your bike shop and have them do. It's not too difficult, but there are some gotcha things that can screw you up.
All that said, if it's just a fit issue with your current bike, unless you don't have any standover room to the top bar, you can make the bike ride smaller by swapping to a shorter stem.
For the actual transferring, you'll need a few specialized tools too. You'll need a special tool to remove the headset from your current frame and another to press it into the new one. You can make your own or buy. You'll also need special tools for your crankset/bottom bracket. Which exact tools you need again depends on the design of the crankset.
It sounds a bit complicated, but it really isn't. If you have some mechanical aptitude, it's pretty easy to figure out and nice to know how to do these things on your own. On the other hand, if you have no experience or desire to work on your bikes, it might be something to take into your bike shop and have them do. It's not too difficult, but there are some gotcha things that can screw you up.
All that said, if it's just a fit issue with your current bike, unless you don't have any standover room to the top bar, you can make the bike ride smaller by swapping to a shorter stem.
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 8,900
Bikes: Waterford RST-22, Bob Jackson World Tour, Ritchey Breakaway Cross, Soma Saga, De Bernardi SL, Specialized Sequoia
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 196 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
4 Posts
I have swapped parts from frames a number of times and it's no big deal for a bike shop -- or yourself if mechanically inclined. My shops generally charge about $100-150 to swap parts, depending on the shop and amount of work involved. I generally need some extra parts when doing a swap (such as a new stem, sometimes brakes) and sometimes supply parts that I have on hand or buy them from the LBS, which would add to the costs.
If looking for a commuter frame -- in addition to getting one the correct size -- look for features such as mounts for fenders and racks, clearance for larger tires and fenders, a pump peg, and a taller head tube.
If looking for a commuter frame -- in addition to getting one the correct size -- look for features such as mounts for fenders and racks, clearance for larger tires and fenders, a pump peg, and a taller head tube.
#15
The Fat Guy In The Back
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Sioux Falls, SD
Posts: 2,527
Bikes: '81 Panasonic Sport, '02 Giant Boulder SE, '08 Felt S32, '10 Diamondback Insight RS, '10 Windsor Clockwork, '15 Kestrel Evoke 3.0, '19 Salsa Mukluk
Mentioned: 91 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 319 Post(s)
Liked 165 Times
in
110 Posts
The best way I've found to convert any bike into a commuter is to ride it to work.
__________________
Visit me at the Tundra Man Workshop
Visit me at the Tundra Man Workshop
#16
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I might actually try that electrical tape mod
But my biggest concern is the frame height since it still feels a little too high up for a comfortable ride.. so a frame switch might still be necessary.
But my biggest concern is the frame height since it still feels a little too high up for a comfortable ride.. so a frame switch might still be necessary.
#17
Gearhead
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Chatsworth, Ga.
Posts: 236
Bikes: 1982 Schwinn Sidewinder, Sun EZ-1 Recumbent, Cannondale R-400
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times
in
8 Posts
Don't tear up the Trek. It is much cheaper and easier just to get a good used bike, and set it up like you want it. It's been my experience that, depending on how far, and what kind of roads you have to ride on, hybrid bikes make outstanding commuter and utility bikes. I love my '93 Specialized Crossroads.
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Palm Coast, Fl.
Posts: 164
Bikes: Cannondale SystemSix Carbon
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I would take it to the shop and have an honest opinion on what can be done to make it fit you better rather then swapping frames. If it can be modified parts wise to make it work on the cheap then you can do the tape mod and go ahead and use it. I lived in center city philly for many years and the tape mod works very well provided its like a grey or amy green and any flashy lables covered up nobody knows what your riding.
#21
Banned
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Northern California
Posts: 5,804
Bikes: Raleigh Grand Prix, Giant Innova, Nishiki Sebring, Trek 7.5FX
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Any bike that has too large of a frame is of no good use to its rider.
My advice would be to sell your current road bike at cost, and next time, make fit a priority before you actually buy the bike of your dreams.
I would suggest that you consider either the Fuji Roubaix 3 or the Diamondback Podium 3 from Performance, or the Jamis Satellite Comp model for the future.
PS.
Currently, REI Outlet has the Raleigh RX Cyclocross road bike going for $800!
My advice would be to sell your current road bike at cost, and next time, make fit a priority before you actually buy the bike of your dreams.
I would suggest that you consider either the Fuji Roubaix 3 or the Diamondback Podium 3 from Performance, or the Jamis Satellite Comp model for the future.
PS.
Currently, REI Outlet has the Raleigh RX Cyclocross road bike going for $800!
Last edited by SlimRider; 11-14-12 at 12:27 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
monsterpile
Commuting
17
03-08-11 07:05 PM