Downtube shifters are pretty much useless.
#76
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of fer cryin' our loud...if i hear the only racers need new technology ___X__ canard again i am going to buy some ballistic composite clinchers just to teach you people a lesson. the whole point of electronic shifting is that it will (eventually) be largely worry free. and its just a matter of time before it trickles down to commuter level bikes. just imagine: no housing compression, no diddling with tiny barrel/screw thingamabobs to dial it in, and no having to clean your drive train religiously. just press the little button and voila the servo automagically shifts your gear no matter how old your chain, how sharktoothed your gears are, or how much crap has built up on your sprockets.
#77
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A few years ago I would have told you I would never intentionally ride a bike with DT shifters. I thought I would never like having my hands of the bars to shift. years later I learned how to setup my bike better with correct saddle height reach etc and I felt significantly more balanced. After purchasing a minivelo with headtube shifters I decided that type of shifter was pretty awesome. That was also the bike that convinced me that road bars were pretty great too. Now I have 2 of my bikes that have DT type shifters and they are 2 of my favorite bikes to ride. I have 1 bike with STI brifters and I want to convert my full-time commuter to them. I do really like my DT shifters though they are really great. If you don't like them it doesn't offend me. =)
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Bar end fan here. My current frames have no DT shifter bosses and are too fat for strap-ons, but I wouldn`t mind trying DTs one of these days. They look so COOL! Serious question for the DT gang:
Can you shift front and rear simultaneously? Does it matter whether they are traditional "off the sides" bosses or the short-lived "both on the top" style? By shifting both simultaneously, I mean bumping up one ring and one sprocket at the same time for a single-step upshift or down one each for a single-step downshift. That`s what I do when I start getting towards the end of the useable range for my rear cluster in whichever ring I`m currently riding.
Can you shift front and rear simultaneously? Does it matter whether they are traditional "off the sides" bosses or the short-lived "both on the top" style? By shifting both simultaneously, I mean bumping up one ring and one sprocket at the same time for a single-step upshift or down one each for a single-step downshift. That`s what I do when I start getting towards the end of the useable range for my rear cluster in whichever ring I`m currently riding.
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Can you shift front and rear simultaneously? Does it matter whether they are traditional "off the sides" bosses or the short-lived "both on the top" style? By shifting both simultaneously, I mean bumping up one ring and one sprocket at the same time for a single-step upshift or down one each for a single-step downshift. That`s what I do when I start getting towards the end of the useable range for my rear cluster in whichever ring I`m currently riding.
#81
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Bar end fan here. My current frames have no DT shifter bosses and are too fat for strap-ons, but I wouldn`t mind trying DTs one of these days. They look so COOL! Serious question for the DT gang:
Can you shift front and rear simultaneously? Does it matter whether they are traditional "off the sides" bosses or the short-lived "both on the top" style? By shifting both simultaneously, I mean bumping up one ring and one sprocket at the same time for a single-step upshift or down one each for a single-step downshift. That`s what I do when I start getting towards the end of the useable range for my rear cluster in whichever ring I`m currently riding.
Can you shift front and rear simultaneously? Does it matter whether they are traditional "off the sides" bosses or the short-lived "both on the top" style? By shifting both simultaneously, I mean bumping up one ring and one sprocket at the same time for a single-step upshift or down one each for a single-step downshift. That`s what I do when I start getting towards the end of the useable range for my rear cluster in whichever ring I`m currently riding.
#82
always rides with luggage
Some days, I decide that NO shifters at all are better and I ride my SS to work. 23 miles and no shifting whatsoever.
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--Ben
2006 Trek SU100, 2009 Motobecane Fantom CX, 2011 Motobecane Fantom Cross Uno, and a Bakfiets
Previously: 2000 Trek 4500 (2000-2003), 2003 Novara Randonee (2003-2006), 2003 Giant Rainier (2003-2008), 2005 Xootr Swift (2005-2007), 2007 Nashbar 1x9 (2007-2011), 2011 Windsor Shetland (2011-2014), 2008 Citizen Folder (2015)
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#83
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Not only that - you can do both with two fingers of the same hand. Compared to playing a piano - its not that long a learning curve.
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Yep, although it would be hard to do it as gracefully as you can with bar-ends. Basically, you push both levers in the same direction like Reynolds pointed out, or you cup one hand and rotate it to pull one lever up while pushing the other down. I generally just shift the front when I see that the grade will change and then adjust the rear when I need to.
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I've got 2 bikes with STIs, 2 with bar-ends, and one with DT shifters. I like them all! STIs are definitely easier to use but are much more expensive and more prone to wear out or break. DTs are the hardest to use but are kind of fun in the way that a manual transmission car can be fun to drive; they are also extremely reliable and durable. Bar-ends are a nice middle ground -- they are easy to use, inexpensive, very reliable and durable.
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Like driving a stickshift,it just becomes habit after awhile.I don't shift that much anyways,they could put them on the seatstays if the want.
Last edited by Booger1; 11-27-12 at 11:33 AM.
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of fer cryin' our loud...if i hear the only racers need new technology ___X__ canard again i am going to buy some ballistic composite clinchers just to teach you people a lesson. the whole point of electronic shifting is that it will (eventually) be largely worry free. and its just a matter of time before it trickles down to commuter level bikes. just imagine: no housing compression, no diddling with tiny barrel/screw thingamabobs to dial it in, and no having to clean your drive train religiously. just press the little button and voila the servo automagically shifts your gear no matter how old your chain, how sharktoothed your gears are, or how much crap has built up on your sprockets.
Last edited by daveF; 11-28-12 at 11:18 AM.
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