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-   -   what should i upgrade first? (https://www.bikeforums.net/commuting/864945-what-should-i-upgrade-first.html)

I-Like-To-Bike 01-01-13 08:02 PM


Originally Posted by mtb123 (Post 15108272)
Will his $13 tires work? Of course. Will his stock tires work? Yes. Can you commute on a heavy bike with cheap tires? Sure. Is it really necessary to spend money to reduce rotational weight? No. But again, the OP's topic is upgrades.

The OP's desire appears to be to "upgrade " regardless of necessity.

LarDasse74 01-01-13 08:19 PM


Originally Posted by cyccommute (Post 15108678)
I've had this discussion before but here goes: When are you not accelerating on a bicycle? While you might cover a 20 mile distance at an 'average' of, say, 15 mph, the instantaneous speed is going to fluctuate greatly around that 15 mph. Anytime you deviated from that 'average' (either plus or minus), you are accelerating. Even if you can keep the speed at exactly 15 mph over the 20 mile distance, you have to accelerate to neutralize the forces acting on the bike. The main force is wind resistance but there are others constantly acting on the bike and rider.

I recall some of the discussions we have had. We will have to agree to disagree, and we should also finally come to agreement on the fact that you are wrong :)

Unless you are undergoing a bulk change in speed, the weight of your wheels make little or no difference. Yes, there are accelerations and decelerations as you ride, even at a seemingly steady speed, but the flywheel affect from the heavier wheels will actually result in LESS of the small accel- and decel-erations. The speed you lose will be a result of drag forces (caused by aerodynamic resistance, mechanical drag in the wheel bearings, and rolling resistance of the tire and tube deflecting against the ground) and the energy required to overcome these forces (and keep a steady speed) is equal to the forces X the time over which they are applied. And all these forces are independent of wheel weight.

As for hills, lighter wheels and tires make the same difference as a lighter frame, or pouring water out of your water bottle at the bottom of the hill.

windhchaser 01-01-13 08:23 PM

i got all i want from this thread i will get a stand and some tools and ride the bike ty for all the advice

LarDasse74 01-01-13 08:33 PM


Originally Posted by windhchaser (Post 15108866)
i got all i want from this thread i will get a stand and some tools and ride the bike ty for all the advice

NO! You must stay and watch it degrade into a shouting match about physics equations, frame materials (Aluminum is best, followed by Hi-tensile steel, then Carbon, then Cromoly), spoke tension, and correct cable-housing length. If you leave now you will miss all the fun!

cyccommute 01-01-13 08:35 PM


Originally Posted by LarDasse74 (Post 15108853)
I recall some of the discussions we have had. We will have to agree to disagree, and we should also finally come to agreement on the fact that you are wrong :)

Unless you are undergoing a bulk change in speed, the weight of your wheels make little or no difference. Yes, there are accelerations and decelerations as you ride, even at a seemingly steady speed, but the flywheel affect from the heavier wheels will actually result in LESS of the small accel- and decel-erations. The speed you lose will be a result of drag forces (caused by aerodynamic resistance, mechanical drag in the wheel bearings, and rolling resistance of the tire and tube deflecting against the ground) and the energy required to overcome these forces (and keep a steady speed) is equal to the forces X the time over which they are applied. And all these forces are independent of wheel weight.

As for hills, lighter wheels and tires make the same difference as a lighter frame, or pouring water out of your water bottle at the bottom of the hill.

We will have to agree that someone is wrong but it isn't me. Try this, get a very light weight frame and put extremely heavy wheels on it. Then put light weight wheels on it. See which one is easier to keep speed on. Then go climb a hill. I'll bet you notice a lot more difference than pouring water out at the bottom of the hill.

Burton 01-01-13 08:52 PM


Originally Posted by LarDasse74 (Post 15108853)
(snip)

As for hills, lighter wheels and tires make the same difference as a lighter frame, or pouring water out of your water bottle at the bottom of the hill.

Have to agree. Everything on the bike is being accelerated at the same rate. Some of it is linear acceleration - some of it is centripetal acceleration. The force equals mass times acceleration thing applies in both cases.

windhchaser 01-01-13 10:07 PM

im haveing tropulbe finding what tool i use to remove diff parts can someone pleaspost links for the proper tools to remove my rear freewheel and my bottom bracket and crank arms

ThermionicScott 01-01-13 10:38 PM

Why the **** do you need to remove your crank and bottom bracket already? Just ride the bike and upgrade when stuff breaks.

windhchaser 01-01-13 10:40 PM


Originally Posted by ThermionicScott (Post 15109405)
Why the **** do you need to remove your crank and bottom bracket already? Just ride the bike and upgrade when stuff breaks.

i dont have to but i like to have the tool just incase.

fietsbob 01-02-13 12:18 AM


cool all i want is dependability so far a weak link on bikes for me has been the rear gears had 2 bikes where the rear cassete or freeweheel would turn but it wouldnt engage the wheel so i just coulnt get bike to move.on both bikes they was made by pacific bikes.one being a Schwinn and other a moongoose
Replace parts that fail. with new ones..

If you want a nicer, proper bike shop bike, drop by and speak to the staff.

or just maintain what you have ..
they're not great, but at least the motivation to steal them, will be less, also..


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