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Quick-release, anti-theft saddle lock for folders?
Hello
While anti-theft solutions à la Pitlock are fine for regular bikes since the saddle rarely needs to have its height adjusted afterward, this is not true of folding bikes which must be raised/lowered every time. I saw some folders equiped with cables, but they're 1) easy to ruin with bolt cutter 2) unsightly. While looking for a solution, I happened on this page that hints are recycling a bike chain, but is this secure and silent? So I was wondering if someone knew of a secure solution for saddles that are still quick-release? Thank you. |
Why do you need anti-theft measures for a folder? I thought the idea with folders was you're able to carry the bike with you most everywhere, and not leave it locked on the street?
That said, I remember someone suggesting a cable or chain for standard bike, but run inside the saddle post and saddle tube. I don't know how you can fasten it to the frame inside the tube (BB? Bottle cage eyelets? Something else?) and whether that would interfere with the folding mechanism. --J |
Originally Posted by Juha
(Post 15113733)
Why do you need anti-theft measures for a folder? I thought the idea with folders was you're able to carry the bike with you most everywhere, and not leave it locked on the street?
That said, I remember someone suggesting a cable or chain for standard bike, but run inside the saddle post and saddle tube. I don't know how you can fasten it to the frame inside the tube (BB? Bottle cage eyelets? Something else?) and whether that would interfere with the folding mechanism. --J |
Originally Posted by Juha
(Post 15113733)
Why do you need anti-theft measures for a folder? I thought the idea with folders was you're able to carry the bike with you most everywhere, and not leave it locked on the street?J
To the OP, that chain would wok, but would rattle and with the long seatpost would make for a very long chain. |
Brooks feel like a theft magnet? find something else .. you didn't drop 135 on..
One idea Brompton SAP the standard pin is bolt fixed, reaming out the thread lets a QR seat post skewer pass thru see http://www.foldabikes.com/CloseUp/bike/sapMain.html, that makes taking off the saddle quick.. Plugging it back on leaves the angle adjustment unchanged.. |
Take the saddle/post with you?
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Zefal makes a locking seatpost skewer. It's pretty slick.
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Originally Posted by Leebo
(Post 15115387)
Take the saddle/post with you?
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
(Post 15114739)
Brooks feel like a theft magnet? find something else .. you didn't drop 135 on..
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Originally Posted by acidfast7
(Post 15114005)
My guess is that he's a multi-modal commuter and can't bring a normal bike on the RER/Métro but uses it on both ends, therefore, leaving it locked outside during the work day.
It looks like the only current solution is to bring the saddle with me. No biggie, but as multi-modal commuting may pick up (10€/liter?), there might be a market for that product.
Originally Posted by Ridefreemc
(Post 15114044)
To the OP, that chain would wok, but would rattle and with the long seatpost would make for a very long chain.
Originally Posted by Medic Zero
(Post 15115996)
Zefal makes a locking seatpost skewer. It's pretty slick.
1. It didn't fit well on the Birdy and not at all on a Dahon-copycat (Oyama). I guess Zefal didn't try it on folding bikes 2. Having to turn the bike at a 90°+ angle to unlock the saddle was not as fun as I thought it'd be, even on a folder. Thanks everyone. |
One of the ways I had contemplated protecting my saddle and seat post on my folder from being stolen was to make my own cable. That is, to select a rubber coated length of cable, cut it to the full extended length of the seatpost, and then swage the ends (no lock - permanent). I have a friend that makes side-stay rigging for sail boats and he can easy swage the fittings for me. I'd use a lightweight cable because if someone has bolt/cable cutters it won't matter the thickness. This would keep the casual stealer/passerby from taking the parts.
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You can buy cables with loops on both ends. Pass one loop through saddle rails, then through other loop. That gets you that end. Then put your u-bolt or other lock through the loose end when locking it up. Store cable with lock, rather than on bike, to avoid flapping/rattling. It won't secure the seat POST, but it will save your saddle. Like the previous commenter, fairly thin cables are OK, since you aren't going to defeat someone with cutters.
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Thanks for the tips.
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i've heard of people putting the bike chain inside of an old inner tube to reduce rattling
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