gedsdead

Hi Everyone,

I'm a new cyclist, and new to the forum. I started communting to work on my bike, which is about a 13 KM x2 ride (just under 10 miles). I live in hilly and rainy Vancouver, and I'm not a hugely athletic person, but I've definitely enjoyed riding 2-3 times a week, well while the weather was good.

My ride is a 2006 Brodie Tesla I purchased second hand, and I'm enjoying the bike.
https://brodiebikes.com/2013/archive/...=tesla&year=06

My concern is that I'm having a lot of troubles on some of the steep hills in the city. I'm in the lowest gear and still find I'm really tired, I need to rest on the big hill.

Equally, I noticed that rarely, even when going down a steep hill, will I ever reach the top gear. I guess it’s safe to say its geared to fast for me.

As the bike needs a new chain and a tune up before my Spring ridding starts, I'd like to change the gearing to make it easier on the hills, and in better balance. As the chain is getting pretty worn, I think putting the money up for a cassette change would be advantageous. The Crank seems to be in good condition, but I’ll have to get another opinion from the bike shop.

If I change my cassette, but keep it to 9 speed, how will the shifters need to be adjusted ? Could I go 10 speed?


I’ve attached my Cadence Calculator of my current equipment. Usually I cruise about 18 – 23 KM/h , Faster on the flats, and slower on the hills.


Any advice or recommendations would be great.

Thanks,
Gedsdead





gear inches

frontrear 12 13 14 15 17 19 21 23 25
52 115.7 106.8 99.2 92.6 81.7 73.1 66.1 60.4 55.5
42 93.5 86.3 80.1 74.8 66 59 53.4 48.8 44.9
30 66.8 61.6 57.2 53.4 47.1 42.2 38.1 34.8 32

speed in kph at cadence (rpm)

gearcad. 50 55 60 65 70 75 80 85 90 95 100 105 110 115 120
52 x 12 27.5 30.3 33 35.8 38.6 41.3 44.1 46.8 49.6 52.3 55.1 57.8 60.6 63.3 66.1
52 x 13 25.4 28 30.5 33 35.6 38.1 40.7 43.2 45.8 48.3 50.8 53.4 55.9 58.5 61
52 x 14 23.6 26 28.3 30.7 33 35.4 37.8 40.1 42.5 44.8 47.2 49.6 51.9 54.3 56.6
52 x 15 22 24.2 26.4 28.6 30.8 33 35.2 37.4 39.7 41.9 44.1 46.3 48.5 50.7 52.9
52 x 17 19.4 21.4 23.3 25.3 27.2 29.2 31.1 33 35 36.9 38.9 40.8 42.8 44.7 46.6
52 x 19 17.4 19.1 20.9 22.6 24.3 26.1 27.8 29.6 31.3 33 34.8 36.5 38.3 40 41.7
52 x 21 15.7 17.3 18.9 20.5 22 23.6 25.2 26.7 28.3 29.9 31.5 33 34.6 36.2 37.8
52 x 23 14.4 15.8 17.2 18.7 20.1 21.6 23 24.4 25.9 27.3 28.7 30.2 31.6 33 34.5
52 x 25 13.2 14.5 15.9 17.2 18.5 19.8 21.1 22.5 23.8 25.1 26.4 27.8 29.1 30.4 31.7
42 x 12 22.2 24.5 26.7 28.9 31.1 33.4 35.6 37.8 40 42.3 44.5 46.7 48.9 51.2 53.4
42 x 13 20.5 22.6 24.6 26.7 28.7 30.8 32.8 34.9 37 39 41.1 43.1 45.2 47.2 49.3
42 x 14 19.1 21 22.9 24.8 26.7 28.6 30.5 32.4 34.3 36.2 38.1 40 41.9 43.8 45.8
42 x 15 17.8 19.6 21.4 23.1 24.9 26.7 28.5 30.2 32 33.8 35.6 37.4 39.1 40.9 42.7
42 x 17 15.7 17.3 18.8 20.4 22 23.5 25.1 26.7 28.3 29.8 31.4 33 34.5 36.1 37.7
42 x 19 14 15.5 16.9 18.3 19.7 21.1 22.5 23.9 25.3 26.7 28.1 29.5 30.9 32.3 33.7
42 x 21 12.7 14 15.3 16.5 17.8 19.1 20.3 21.6 22.9 24.1 25.4 26.7 28 29.2 30.5
42 x 23 11.6 12.8 13.9 15.1 16.2 17.4 18.6 19.7 20.9 22 23.2 24.4 25.5 26.7 27.8
42 x 25 10.7 11.7 12.8 13.9 14.9 16 17.1 18.1 19.2 20.3 21.4 22.4 23.5 24.6 25.6
30 x 12 15.9 17.5 19.1 20.7 22.2 23.8 25.4 27 28.6 30.2 31.8 33.4 34.9 36.5 38.1
30 x 13 14.7 16.1 17.6 19.1 20.5 22 23.5 24.9 26.4 27.9 29.3 30.8 32.3 33.7 35.2
30 x 14 13.6 15 16.3 17.7 19.1 20.4 21.8 23.1 24.5 25.9 27.2 28.6 30 31.3 32.7
30 x 15 12.7 14 15.3 16.5 17.8 19.1 20.3 21.6 22.9 24.1 25.4 26.7 28 29.2 30.5
30 x 17 11.2 12.3 13.5 14.6 15.7 16.8 17.9 19.1 20.2 21.3 22.4 23.5 24.7 25.8 26.9
30 x 19 10 11 12 13 14 15.1 16.1 17.1 18.1 19.1 20.1 21.1 22.1 23.1 24.1
30 x 21 9.1 10 10.9 11.8 12.7 13.6 14.5 15.4 16.3 17.2 18.2 19.1 20 20.9 21.8
30 x 23 8.3 9.1 9.9 10.8 11.6 12.4 13.3 14.1 14.9 15.7 16.6 17.4 18.2 19.1 19.9
30 x 25 7.6 8.4 9.2 9.9 10.7 11.4 12.2 13 13.7 14.5 15.3 16 16.8 17.5 18.3

shepherdsflock

An easier and cheaper alternative might be to keep your cassette and just change to some smaller chainrings. After that, maybe consider longer crank arms.

Leebo

So, several options available to you. First, always change the chain and cassette together. Keep it 9 speed, much easier that way. Get a rear cassette that has a 28 t for the low. My 105 rear der.will fit a 28. yours "should" as well. Try to get smaller front chain ring than 30, maybe a 28? Find out what bolt pattern your crank is, maybe 110 or 130. Your LBS will be helpful in this matter.

gedsdead

I'm about 170-175 LBS, 5'11

old's'cool

With a 30x25 low, you're nearly at the point where you might as well get off and push the bike anyway.
Since you just started commuting, you might give yourself some time to gain strength; you may be able to rock that hill with 30x25 eventually.
But I think you're making the right call, installing new chain & cassette at the same time; since they do tend to wear together, you avoid potential issues that might occur with a new chain and old cassette.
When choosing a new cassette, select carefully the range of cogs; to ensure your maximum and minimum desired ratios are covered, and that the steps between the gears you use the most are as small as feasible.

tjspiel

In this case Leebo was talking about a "Local Bike S​hop" and not weight.

cogdriven 

Might sound crazy, but poke around in the single-speed forum and discover why so many of us will never go back to geared bikes. My commute is 24 miles a day in Vermont, where there are plenty of hills. My single speed bikes almost never have mechanicals as they are so easy to maintain, and the only hills I walk up are either in the woods or on roads so steep that I can keep up with most geared riders while pushing my bike. My wife complained for years about climbing hills with her old geared bike but now she loves her Steamroller. We're both over 60, so you don't have to be Clark Kent to consider this option. My Steamroller is geared 42:18, my One Ton mtb frame is geared 32:18 for hauling groceries and my mtb is 32:22.

cplager

Why? I've got a 22x32 low and it means that I can keep spinning up some real monsters. Riding is better than walking in most cases and having lower gears means that you'll be able build up to using higher gears gradually.

GFish

This is good advice. Changing the small chainring is an less expensive solution.

If decide to change the cassette (and chain), you could always buy a 9 speed MTB cassette. Something like this; https://www.pricepoint.com/detail/180...d-Cassette.htm

If you go this route, you'll likely need to change the rear derailleur also.

While you work on building cycling fitness, having the right gearing can help immensely.

tjspiel

I've got the equivalent gear-inches (and more) all on the same bike.

Bill Kapaun

The bike specs from the link you posted show-
A SS RDER, which has a total chain wrap capacity of 29 Teeth.
Your bike as equipped needs a capacity of 35T, so something doesn't add up.
IF it has the GS RDER, that capacity is listed as 37T, so that is more likely the actual RDER.

Keeping your current crank, uses up 22T of your capacity. That means the difference between smallest & largest cogs can only be 15T to stay within specs.
The good news is you can "fudge" a couple teeth. A little bit more if you stay out of the smallest ring/cog(s) combinations.
How MUCH lower do you need? A 27T largest cog would gain 8%.
You could also drop 1 tire size on the rear and gain a slight bit. Reducing tire weight would also help a slight bit.

Personally, IF I spin out going downhill, it wouldn't bother me. I'll just go a bit slower and save my energy for the uphill that follows. (or rest from the uphill I just finished)
What % of the time are you actually spinning out VS the time you are laboring uphill? Which "bothers" you more?

ThermionicScott 

+1. With conditioning comes less need for the very lowest gears, but there's no harm in having them.

P.S. It's too bad there isn't a Shimano-compatible cassette available with Campy's 13-28 gear arrangment -- that would nicely add one more low gear to the OP's current range, and lop a little off the top to keep everything tight.

noglider 

Do you want to become stronger so the hills become easier? You're already on the way, with a commitment to ride more and with the technique you're currently using to climb. My recommendations:

Don't change your equipment. There is nothing wrong with stopping in the middle of the hill to rest.

Especially don't change your cranks for longer ones. It can mess with your fit on the bike, and I don't think it's a good way to reduce effort.

Whenever possible, use a higher gear than you might think appropriate. If you can only do this for a few seconds, that's fine.

Stop on the hill when you need to, and stand there until you're ready to proceed.

Stand up while climbing. This is less efficient, but it provides maximum power, therefore, it builds your strength.

If you use these techniques, you will notice improved strength in two or three weeks! I've helped several people achieve this, using these techniques that I stumbled upon. I was once a mediocre hill climber, and now I'm a very good one. I've had to stop on ONE hill in several years recently, and that was in Vermont. We have many hills in this area that good cyclists call difficult, and while I agree on some of them, I don't have to stop on them at all.

fietsbob

swap the 30 for a 26t.. 52,42,26 works well 10 & 16t differences..

50,40, 24 is another triple set I have found to work well
[used on my cyclo-camping bike with 13-34t 6~7 speed freewheels]

if capable , like the crank is capable being smaller than a 74 bcd
then mountain compact work well 22, 32 , 44

"granny gear" half the teeth of the big ring,
middle 10 or 12 t smaller than the large ring.

A reasonable 'rule of thumb' //..

cplager

I agree with this.

This may be fine for many or most people, but if somebody has crappy knees, this can be a recipe for disaster.

I agree with this too.

Cheers,
Charles

Drew Eckhardt 

Put a smaller granny ring on (down to a 24 will fit) and install a chain catcher.

This will cost less than a new cassette and not compromise the spacing between your cogs.

davestv

You will get stronger and your technique will improve the more you cycle. It's more to do with the engine. You might not believe it now, but if you keep up your cycling you will not be using your lowest gear on your current set up in the next few months.

Jim-in-Kirkland

+ 1 on changing small front chain ring to 24 or 26 - consider adding a chain watcher/catcher to seat tube when installed to help keep the chain from coming off at the front (cost $10+).

At some point after you back derailleur wears out - replace it with a mountain bike version to use a 32t back cassette. My commuters (in hilly Seattle) has a 28 front X 32 rear on one bike and 26 front X 28 rear on other. It is nice to have a lower gear so you can spin up a moderate hill if wet & slippery out.... Good Luck

cplager

+1

cogdriven 

You would think that would be better, I agree. But it just isn't the same and the only way to realize that is to try it. This is especially true if you are riding fixed. You might not be the fastest rider in the race, but you'll have the best acceleration in traffic and pass most riders on any hill under 8-9%.

pepox369

OP, its all about the engine and little about the bike.

Give a great biker a crappy bike and he will still beat most of us in this forum with the best bike available.

Its just that if u dont have the conditioning, u need to keep pedaling until u get there..


EDIT:

I know you dont have a road bike, but this gives u a good idea and some good tips..

https://youtu.be/f9WaU-bZdic

dynaryder

Going down 2-4 teeth on the small ring will be cheaper than swapping to an 11-28 cassette,but it won't net as big of a result. I'd swap the cassette. Your derailleur should handle it,and your chain should be fine as well. Later on when you get your legs,you can always swap the original cassette back on.

I've ridden nothing but geared bikes here in hilly DC. I'm 43 and zero knee issues. Most of my friends who rode fixed are now going back to gears as they age.

tjspiel

I've spent plenty of time riding SS and I understand the advantages. I've done a little goofing around on a fixed gear but no serious rides so I can't comment from personal experience. However, I've done many group rides with people on fixed and SS bikes.

Like your wife, my wife would probably also have an easier time with a single speed on many hills. The reason is that she doesn't really comprehend gearing options very well or understand when the optimum time to shift is. 2 and 3 X setups aren't very intuitive from an operator perspective. If you try shift while mashing really hard, the shift ends up not being very smooth which puts people off so they just labor up the hill instead.

There's a ride we go on all the time and my wife frequently struggles up the same hill in too high a gear. It doesn't matter how many times I've told her that shifting to a lower gear will help but if it involves the front derailleur she gets confused which lever does what (trigger shifters).

On the other hand, with a 1 X 8, 1 X 9, or 1 X 10 drivetrain your wife (and mine) may discover that gears really can make life easier.

Based on my group ride experience, those that have the easiest time with most hills are the strongest riders and it doesn't matter how many gears they have. However I've noticed that fixed gear riders suffer dearly on the long fast descents that the rest of us tackle with glee. I've also noticed that single/fixed gear riders tend to not like rolling hills and will sometimes drop farther to the back of the pack than they would normally be.

We've also got several SS riders in the office and with at least a few of them hills have a greater impact on route choice than it does for me.

hybridbkrdr

I live in a hilly area and I find my cheap hybrid gearing really doesn't do the job. It has a 28/38/48T crankset and 14-28T rear freewheel. I'm thinking 36 maximum in the middle and maybe I could use a 30T or preferably 32T in the back. There are some 26/36/48T cranksets out there. But, to me it's all a matter of what you can get for what price. I was thinking for one bike project I might build it with a 22/32/44T crankset and another with 30/42/52T but that's with an 11-32T cassette. I figure with the 42 in the middle I might have to spend some amount of time on the 32T rear cog. But, it will pay off when I'm going slightly downhill for miles and miles against the wind on 52T and 11T in the back.