Bike rack not compatible with eyelets?
 

I recently purchased a motobecane TI cross bike for my commute to work (great bike :thumb:). I'm having an issue, though, getting the rack from my old commuter onto the new bike. Basically, the eyelets that are provided do not seem to be compatible with my rack. Because of the space around the eyelets, and the shape/size of the rack I am unable to actually screw the bolt in all the way (the rack runs into the actual frame). Pictures provided below.

I'm not sure what to do about this (most of the racks I've seen are shaped the same way / the same size). Is it alright to just not have the bolt screwed in all the way? I have to get a larger bolt anyway to fit fenders on the bike as well (only 1 set of eyelets). I wanted to have the rack closer to the eyelets (i.e. Fenders -> Rack -> Eyelets), but that doesn't seem to be possible.

Thoughts?

Thanks

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=313668

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=313669

The problem is that you are trying to use the disc brake mount.
Leaving a gap is also bad. Need to use a washer of some sort., hopefully that won't turn.

Am I? There are a pair of holes (first picture you can see one, the other is hidden behind the rack bar). Then there is a third hole (it's actually a pair of holes, one on either side), which is where my fenders are currently mounted and where I'm trying to mount the (right now in place of the fenders). I don't see anywhere else that I could put the rack (bike was advertised as having the necessary holes for a rack or fenders).

Your photos dont show the problem.
Take them again from better angles and use daylight (shade or cloudy) for more even illumination. Flash suck when photographing metal.

could get another rack with a quick release mount like Tubus. Not sure if their quick release accessory could be compatible with another company's rack.

it's hard to see what's going on with the non-drive side at that angle, but it doesn't look like you have any issues that couldn't be resolved with spacers/washers/longer bolts. I had my fenders and racks mounted on a single set of eyelets on a bike I just took apart. I used fender washers and nuts on the longer bolt to keep everything tight. Worked pretty well. One thing that worked was to put a long bolt on from the inside and then hold the fenders and rack on with nuts.

You can see it best on the drive side...there is essentially a gap between the rack (the vertical black bar) and the eyelet. It's small, but noticeable, and is caused by the rack running into the frame (the bolt can't be tightened any further)

If this is the case then that's fine. I was just under the impression that you don't want the rack located far from the eyelet (just since this is the point that's carrying most of the weight and the further you get from the eyelet the more stress you're putting on the bolt). If this isn't a major concern then what you said is absolutely correct and it's an easy solution.

Have you tried a rack made for a bike with disc brakes?

+1 Topeak Explorer with Disc Brake mounts might work for you. Or you could get a much longer bolt with a spacer set in-between and rig it that way.

Is there any reason to worry about going to longer bolt route? I don't carry a ton of weight on the rack generally, but there are occasions where what I have on there gets pretty heavy.

Trying to avoid having to buy a new rack, but not at the expense of risking damage to anything.

Try a small spacer or thick washer. The disc style of rack has a built-in spacer over 1" thick which is a bit excessive for your needs.

Tubus does Titanium , too..

Actually, that's likely to make things worse. Topeak's disc mounts are huge blocks of aluminum. I had to file them down to get them to work on my Kona Jake.

That sucks! I haven't had that problem, but I can see why it would be a PITA if one runs into such an issue.

Yeah,I had this issue putting fenders on my Ti Motobecane. On the left dropout the frame has this 'ridge' right where the braze-on is. Had to file a flat side on a spacer to move the strut out. The braze-ons are badly placed,but then I think they were an afterthought since I think they intended this to be more of a race machine.

Those two upper holes on the left side are for a disc caliper(mine had discs). By mounting there,the left side will be higher than the right(unless the rack legs are adjustable). Might want to look at a rack whose lower mounts go on the skewer. Def need to tighten up the mounting on the right,it needs to be up against the frame.

there is noting wrong with using spacers and a rack. A 6mm bolt can carry 1000 pounds -- if it is tight.