Suggestions for component upgrades on Cannondale Quick 4
 

This is essentially the same post I put in the road biking forum. It was suggested that I might get a better response here. Anyone with familiarity as to the components on the Quick 4 that can suggest worthwhile upgrades would be most appreciated. Here is the original post:

Hello everyone,

I'm a newbie here and need some advice on upgrading components. I just ordered a brand new Cannondale Quick 4 and am contemplating upgrading some of the components before it gets assembled so I can sell the existing components as new. I need recommendations as to what I should upgrade and which ones give me the best bang for the buck.

First off I would like to go from 8-speed out of the box to 9 or 10. I'm not the most knowledgeable on exactly all the components I need to replace to accomplish this. Second I want to upgrade the components in general as I plan on riding this bike quite a bit to and from work and appreciate smooth riding/shifting and low noise from the geartrain. Third, I have budget not to exceed around $400.

I know people would say why not just buy a quick 3 or 2? My answer is I love the silver and blue paint combo! Any help with suggestions on what to get would be most appreciated!

For Commuting I have a Preference for Internal gear hubs, ..

'8 speeds' means 8 cogs, it says nothing about the gear ratio or range.

look up a gear calculation chart , count teeth .. figure out what ratios you need.

once you wear out the current cassette, think if the gear you feel missing is going to be there
if you swap out levers cassette and chain for that 1 or 2 more cogs,
all packed tighter together in the space of 8.

Tiagra SL-4600 shifter: ~$105
Ultegra 6650 compact crank: ~$139 at Jenson (a 5650 or 5750 would be fine too)
Ultegra 6700 derailleurs: ~$125
KMC 10 speed chain: ~$20

If you go all 105 you could knock about $50 off the total but, IMO, ultegra is better price performance.

The Quick 4 has mountain bike components and not road bike ones. I'm familiar with the shimano road bike stuff but have no idea regarding the mountain bike stuff.

I would personally ride what you have until the parts wear out and then upgrade when you replace them. Of course I know that doesn't help you. :)

Hybrid IGH /Cassette combination Hubs Sturmey and Sram use the 3 speeds instead of a triple crank.
so you can downshift while stopped then roll out in the lower gear then resume the faster gear easily..

a good benefit in commuting..

First off,it would've been cheaper/easier to buy the 2 or 3,strip it to the frame,and repaint it.

For going from 8spd to 9 or 10,you should know that 9/10spd parts aren't as long lasting and are more expensive than 8spd. I used to get a good year and a half out of my 8spd chains while commuting,at a replacement cost of $18. When I went to a 9spd bike they lasted about a year and cost $25,and when I went to a 10spd bike I only got about 8 months and they cost $40. So while 9/10spd may be blingy,and weigh a touch less,it's going to cost alot more and require more frequent upkeep. As for how well the components work,you'd do better getting some higher-end NOS 8spd shifters off eBay and make sure everything is set up properly. I just put my 8spd Deore Dew Deluxe back into rotation,and the shifting isn't any worse than my 9spd LX/XT Pt Reyes. Proper setup is everything.

Don't forget the cassette, handlebars (tape? stem? new cables?), possibly rear wheel, maybe bottom bracket depending on the cranks, and labor to get it all swapped out (unless the OP has all of his own tools and knowhow). Upgrading to ten speed road from eight speed mountain stuff is a big job.

I'm still with the guys that say ride it into the dirt, figure out what you like and don't like about it, and go from there. Or, if there's a bike that would better suit your needs, maybe you can return this one? Or flip it on ebay brand new?

Not wanting to be a dick, but the color scheme is exactly the last thing you should be concerned with if you're planning on being a frequent commuter and occasional distance rider. It doesn't sound like this is the right bike for you. Doing a total overhaul like you're talking about is very much like buying a frame and fork and doing a custom build - the expensive way to do things.

Powertrains with more speeds have thinner gears that wear out faster and cost more and they don't really offer any advantage.

Upgrade your tyres to Marathon Supremes and the brake pads for Kool stop pinks, add Ergon grips - you'll go faster, have fewer punctures, and be able to stop in the wet. And put security skewers on the wheels and seat post if you ever leave the bike locked on the street.

+1 for sticking with 8-speed.

I have no idea what that means? Could you explain further?

So if that was true, why then would anyone buy a bike with more speeds if it didn't offer an advantage? That makes no sense... just saying...

I forgot to include the cassette but a 10 sp tiagra 4600 casette can be bought for $30 or less.
*The bb is typically included with cranks.
*Virtually all new hybrid wheels are 10 speed compatible since the hub body length did not chance between 9 and 10 speed.
*Cables are included with the flat bar sl-4600 shifters.
*A flat bar hybrid would not need tape or a new stem/

The resale value of the "new" components would cover the cost of a swap at a co-op or smaller lbs. Moreover, the price for tiagra/deore 9-speed would be far less than the race level ultegra components I listed. Upgrading to ultegra would also greatly improve shifting and wear over bottom-end 8 speed components (or mid range 9 speed).

If you could find new-old 8 speed xt or 105, you might have a point, but the 8 speed components manufactured today are made of less durable materials. For example, the chainrings/cogs are made of soft alloys, the pulleys and links are not coated, and the bearings are not ceramic.

You're totally right. I assumed he wanted to swap out his bars, but I'm not sure why I had that impression. Heh.

I believe he meant no advantage to you. Racers want their bikes as light as possible and are given parts by manufacturers,so as long as it saves weight,they don't care beyond the part lasting the day. Racers also ride all day long,so they want a close-ratio drivetrain with small gaps between gears so they can keep a more constant cadence and save energy. If you're riding 20 miles one way on a MUP,a close-ratio 10spd setup will be advantageous. If you're riding around a city,all it's going to do for you is make you shift more often and replace worn out parts quicker.

There is a big push to 10 and 11spd drivetrains by manufacturers because they think users want the best in terms of performance,and because they can sell more consumables(chains,cassettes). I've commuted on 8,9,and 10spd,and hate 10spd for making me tap my shifter like it was a maraca and burn through chains in less than a year.