Yup, that's why a beater bike being locked up is a better way to go.

When I went to college back in the 70's someone with a short flatbed truck drove onto the campus with 4 guys, they drove up to a bike rack full of bikes and picked up the entire rack of bikes (over a dozen) and put it on the back of the truck and drove off. Odd why no one thought that was strange. After that the college bolted the racks into cement pillars that they put in the ground. My bike was in the rack next to the one they stoled, I think they chose that particular rack because it was full of bikes, I didn't like to put my bike in full racks because students would scrape the crap out of your bike either putting theirs in or taking theirs out, which was another reason I rode a beater instead of my good bike!

You asked about 'technique'. Here's a good web page about technique.

Everybody's got an opinion, I guess, and we all make our choice, place our bet and take it to the street. That $50 Trelock BC215 chain has only 6mm links - easily snippable with bolt cutters ($15 retail). A sub-$20 bigbox Ulock will have at least an 11mm shackle.

...quality older used bike with "obsolete" parts and "patina", then buy two quality Ulocks like the Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit Mini (street price ~$80) and/or the Abus 401 Mini (street price ~$80). Use 'em both with good technique and be choosy about what you lock to. Secure your saddle.

Some Axa ring locks can be opened with a key blank (@ 1:25).

Odd that the lock arms race is more heated on Bike locks than the one that opens my front Door.

Moving away from college towns and the SF bay area was my best upgrade, going down market.

Dutch Geraldo Rivera show?

NB 'some' .. SL7, shown, is an older discontinued one, Defender is the Replacement.
Key wont come out with hasp open, will when closed..

Why is that odd? Like Schuyler Towne said, "There are many more bicycles stolen than home burglaries."

heres my lock up in nyc
http://i39.tinypic.com/5vnpr7.jpg

they also make skewer locks, seat post binder locks, locking bolts for components, but what a headache, every time you have to do something on your bike you have to find the special key for it, god forbid you lose it. Pitlock as a selection of these type of locks if anyone is interested; see: http://www.pitlock.com/

TCS; I don't disagree with the site you gave (http://www.mechbgon.com/lock/) it's another way to do it that looks like it would be effective...to a point, any lock can be defeated by a determined pro no matter what lock or locks you use or which method you use.

But a person can avoid all these headaches and save a money on buying two quality locks and adding PitLocks by simply getting a junker or a walmart bike and buy one medium price lock.

I can't help but think of this after reading this thread :lol:

http://www.standbyformindcontrol.com...443.jpg?9d7bd4

This subject remains an interesting thread no mater how many times its posted - It would appear that locking your bike only keeps an honest person honest...

Heard of a guy up north that built a steel locker/box welded to a warehouse wise support - Rats - They took the bike box and support without remorse...

haha thats hysterical :thumb:

We had heard there was a lof of bike theft in Montreal - this was my "extreme" locking technique:

http://i936.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps97c267da.jpg

Exactly what I was thinking!

That's almost as bad as that (Pee Wee Herman?) snap shot with all the chains.

I was taking no chances and I wanted to present complete overkill to any potential miscreants.

I'm not sure, at least from the pic, if those cables make any sense. You have the cables locked by using the U (D) locks, which once a U lock is overcome then the cables automatically just fall off. Then I noticed you have small diameter cable hooked to a U bolt with a larger diameter cable be held by the smaller diameter cable, again useless. And it looks like you have a cable securing the bike to a post, once that cable is cut in 10 seconds the crooks just pick up the bike and toss in a truck and worry about the other locks when they get to their bike chop shop.

I don't really see the need for the cables that the 3 U bolts aren't already doing. If it were my bike just the 2 U bolts minus all the cables is all that is needed, one for the front wheel to fork to post if possible; second one for the rear wheel bike frame to post. Locking the seats with cables is completely useless because if they want the seats the cables are gone in 10 seconds each, so I wouldn't even bother protecting the seats. You would be better served using 2 seatpost Pit locks; see: http://www.pitlock.com/to-the-shop/c...--purchase.php

I used two u-bolts, one through the frame to the parking post, another through the rear wheel to the frame. To steal the bike, you have to cut the ubolt to the parking post (you aren't seeing that it has loops for bicycles), and unless you want to carry the bike, you have to cut the rear ubolt as well. The thin cables through the seat posts/saddles are just to discourage someone from stealing with just a set of Allen wrenches. The other cables secure the front wheel and are meant to look extensive. The real protection are the two u bolts. - the rest is just meant to discourage someone and three cables through the rear wheel are better than one..

Well,
1) It was still there when he got back to it.
2) It's not like you were offering to replace the tandem for him if it got stolen.

A seatpost PITLOCK protects the seatpost, not the expensive leather saddle that's still just retained with common allen keys. $72 for nothing. Fail.

I like to run the u-lock around the front wheel, downtube, and whatever post or upright bike rack I'm locking to. Back wheels are a bit harder to steal, not impossible but a little more hassle. If I left the bike in a high theft area day after day, I'd get a small u-lock to connect the back wheel to the frame.
I agree with tsl that your landlord is unreasonable. Try to find a different apartment if you can.

When I went to college, I had a tall Schwinn bike which I bought for less than $50 and spent as much getting it in perfect mechanical condition. I brush painted the bike black. The rust, ugly paint job, and tall frame were usually enough to discourage any thief. I rarely bothered to lock the bike. Then I started using a BASTA ring lock which prevents the bike from being ridden away. I had one locked bike that was carried away so I started using the ring lock with a cable. I usually replace the quick release on the seat post to make it a little harder to walk away with the saddle.

Just a little. I had my Brooks saddle stolen from under my nose. I guess the thief had an allen key.

Since my seat is more-or-less-permanently adjusted, I tap some solder into the bolt head with a hammer & punch. I give the same treatment to the seat clamp bolts and a few other items. To get them off I have to get the solder out which isn't too hard with a dremel or drill. I don't expect to be removing the protected items very often and this should be enough to prevent opportunistic thefts.

It's a poor man's Pitlock and maybe better because it doesn't require a special tool.

It's true that there's nothing you can do to stop a determined bike thief (other than maybe chaining YOURSELF to the bike and fighting to protect it). Honest people aren't going to steal your bike, so the ones you're really trying to defend against are the jackasses who would steal your bike just because they can (opportunists). If you can, try to go out of your way to lock your bike out of public view. If they don't know it's there, they aren't going to target your bike.

I wouldn't get a New York lock, they have been shown over and over again to be no deterrent to pro thieves, but especially for a bike that is worth barely three times as much as that lock.

For that bike, I would get a pair of MKS EZY quick release pedals, replace my front wheel quick release with a bolt on if there was a quick release, and then take both pedals and seat and seatpost off with me when I locked up with a $40 U lock and front wheel cable.

I doubt a thief would mess with a $300 bike that had no seat, seatpost or pedals.

My saddle does not have a quick-release, but if I'm worried about it, I do this:

https://performancebikeblog.files.wo...9/dsc_0257.jpg

It's from the article:
Real Advice: How to Lock Your Bike | Performance Bicycle Blog

Don't leave your bike out in the open for extended periods of time (e.g. overnight). People will notice it's just sitting there and someone is bound to get the right tools and crack whatever locks you have open in a matter of seconds. Even quality u-locks can be cut through in less than a minute with $20 bolt cutters.

Think of locking your bike as a procedure you undergo to deter opportunist thieves, i.e. those who are looking for some easy prey and who are more likely to have only some light tools with them. Also, think of how your bike measures up to other potential targets, i.e. is it locked more securely than the other bikes on the same rack, does it look shabbier than them (both are good things), etc.

When you think of locking your bike in this way, the advice I usually give is to use two good locks. It's best if they are different and require different tools. Get rid of quick-release components and make sure you have secured your wheels, saddle, lights, etc. Look at this video for further ideas.