Sorry, got carried away with the bike.
1st off - Lights: you want to packlight and there are some good led lights from Cateye out there.
I have bought a Euro brand of LED lights for the front and back for my folding bike, whick I paid about £25 per pair, but for my MTB i have a set of Madison Electrons, with a 5 and 10w halogens housed in machined aluminium cases. The lights are compact and the rechargeable battery is the size and shape of a small water bottle and sits in the bottle cage.
The lights are good enough for off-road mountain biking with both lamps illuminated, but for commuting the 5w lamp is ample. You can have one or the other or both lamps illuminated, with the 10w having a handle bar mounted control button which secures with a velcro strap.
The battery last about 5 hrs before requiring a charge on the 5w lamp, around 2.5 hrs with the 10w lamp only and about 1h 35 mins with both illuminated (only really required for off-road night time riding).

I bought them from the web and I can't remember where from, but I paid £65 for them in the UK.
The lights are branded as: Electron Lighting Systems. Their website is www.ultimatepursuits.co.uk

Things to carry with you:
1)A good multitool with allen key attachments (at least 6, 8 and 10mm), I have a "Wiggly", which is the size of a medium sized penknife and has a phillips (posidrive) and flat head screwdriver built in. You must have a puncture repair kit and a set of plastic / nylon compact tyre levers.
Also carry at least one spare inner tube, just in case you can't repair a puncture at the roadside and you can just swap the innertube over.

2) A decent quality minipump. Don't scrimp on this as you get what you pay for and a cheapo plastic affair may well leave you high and dry when you need to re-inflate a tyre. I have 2, both made by "Topeak". I have the master blaster (about 9-10" long and 1.5" thick) which is great and will get you decent pressure in any bike tyre and is of aluminium and toughened nylon construction (costs about £20).
I also have a Pocket rocket, also by Topeak which is very compact (about 6" long and 1" thick), and is okay to pump the tyre to "Get you home" pressures, but is hard work. It costs about £16 in the UK.

3) A mobile phone, that is charged up and has credit on it! (Need i say anymore?)

4) A decent cable lock to help you keep your pride and joy out of the mitts of scum sucking thieves. I have a Squire combination cable lock. It would be cut by some medium sized bolt croppers, is 1.8m long and not too heavy to carry. The combination lock you can set yourself to your own 4 digit code and it's not the type that can be cracked by "looking for the gaps" (if you don't know what i mean by this, no worries. I won't spell it out in case any thieving scum are reading this). I paid £10 for my cable lock in the UK. It's only good enough for leaving your bike temporarily whilst you nip in the shop or cafe, in a place that's well lit and populated. Leave it with one of these locks on somewhere a thief can work on it undisturbed and you will lose your bike.

What to wear:

1) Padded cycling shorts of some description. If you are a man and you have the average bike seat (not the large ones with springs underneath) padded cycling shorts will mean the difference between a slight ache in your backside when you get to work after your bike commute or feeling like you have been violated by an elephant. I am told it can cause prostate problems in later life if you don't wear cycling shorts, although I'm not a Doctor, so who knows. What i do know is that i still have vivid memories of cycling in my early twenties to work without padded cycling shorts. It hurts...I soon bought some.

2) High viz jacket / Bib. There are loads out there at all prices to suit all budgets. I have a Madison Dri-tex which cost me about £60 in the UK, is fully waterproof, windproof and lined and has loads of pockets. It looks ok too.

3) Suitable footwear. I ride with SPD pedals, so I have some Shimano cleated sole shoes. They are water proof, comfy enough to walk around in as normal shoes, look ok and i got a deal on them when i bought the shoes and pedals together for £80. (I saved a tenner).

4) Shades / Sunglasses. I have some cheap ones made by Sunwise. They have 3 sets of interchangeable polycarbonate lenses, dark UV400 for sunlight, orange lenses (don't know what these do!) and some yellow lenses (anti-glare). The yellow lenses are ideal for overcast weather or darkness, to stop stuff getting in your eyes, but at night they enhance night vision by reducing glare from headlights and seem to brighten things up a bit. The lenses take about 10-20 seconds to change and the glasses came with a hard case to protect them. All for £20.

5) Decent riding gloves. Should give weather protection but must allow dexterity so you can use your brakes and gears properly. There are loads out there. I got some cheap ones for £15 from my local bike shop. They are made from neoprene (same stuff they make wetsuits from).

Well...the last point...How should i wash up at work? Did your parents not teach you any personal hygiene? Get a shower if you can, or get a wash if you can. I used to work with a guy who cycled to work in his work clothes, sweated all over them and then worked in the same clothes all day and cycles home in them again. He used to smell offensive, he was the butt of many jokes due his body odour.
If you can't get washed or showered and changed into clean clothes / different clothes, at least take some wet wipes and wipe yourself down, then spray your pits with some deodorant.
Ignore this last piece of advice at your peril. I have never met a woman / man yet (or a gay man / woman) that thinks stale sweaty body odour is attractive or sexy.
Good luck.

I just made the leap from car to a bike to get to work. I was nervous about the timing, since I have to be at work by a certain time. What I did was packed up my stuff onto my bike (i have panniers, 'cuz i have a camelbak for water), then did a few test runs on the weekend. It really helped to learn the route before the actual first time in, so I knew where I'd have some trouble.

You might also want to go around the time you'd be riding in to see what the traffic is really like on the road you're taking. On my commute, traffic home at 5 pm is much heavier (and scarier) than at 6 pm.

There was also a tip listed earlier on this thread - it's good to get to where you want to be a 1/2 hour earlier so you can shower/wet wipe down and get your gear situated.

Bags are a preference - I have back issues, so I don't want to load up a back pack and put more stress on it. Again, this is where a test run might help with the gear you expect to use. Start with what you have and go from there.

Hello all new commuter here and I am gearing up for my first Oklahoma winter ride. What is the skinny on those studded tires , do they really hold that much better ? I rode in the desert of California (upper mojave) for 15 years and I am really saving a lot of money riding so I feel its time to man up and get this antique giant I grabbed up for cheap and get my moneys worth . Found a great route have rode almost 85 miles combined in a month and I only use 21 gallons of gas a month . My yard work takes 5 gallons a month and my 96 jeep takes 16 gallons to fill up . Used to use at least 65 gallons a month you can do the math on that one . Glad to chat with you guys and will be reading your posts....

Yes, on ice and hardpacked snow. On pavement, the studs just make a lot of buzzing noise, wear down quickly, and or pop out. Stud spacing, and amount vary from tire to tire...depending on the application....trail riding, commuting, packed snow...etc...

see www.icebike.org

and www.peterwhitecycles.com

i live in long beach, ca and commute to downtown LA twice a week - 22 miles...just under 1.5 hours...i'm no speed demon :-) - i'd like to get up to three times a week...wish me luck next week.

my bike: trek su 100 (hybrid without shocks), equipped with a bontrager rear bike rack and kettler basket (with neatly folded slacks and dress shirt inside...leave a pair of loafers, several ties, and a suit at the office).

my gear: bicycle shorts (underneath basketball shorts), a tshirt (short or long sleeve, depending on the weather), timbuk2 messenger bag (medium).

note: i also leave an extra shirt and towel at the office. i drop off my bike and shower at the 24 hr fitness 2 blocks away.

Carry what you need to fix a flat and fix your skin after a fall. Find your safe route... accept the hand waves from people who are trying to let you go ahead at the intersection and keep a sense of humor for the occasional jerk.

Most of all.... make yourself VISIBLE ... Reflector strips, Reflector side walls, Lights front and rear... Make that phrase "but I didn't see him..." a thing that will never stand up in court.

Learn to change a tire.... really... just learn to change the thing without a moment of hesitation.

-3bikes

Hey all,

I've been wanting to get into cycling for awhile now, though keep in mind the last bike I owned was some 150 dollar mountain bike from Target. Now that I'm settled in and going to school, I'm looking to buy a bike..

So I began the whole research process and tried to understand what was right for me, and I'm curious as to what you think about my situation, given that I'm a newbie to the whole thing.

Needs: Light commuting to subway station, occasionally ride hills in San Francisco, then road biking on the weekends. I just want to get fit, so races and whatnot aren't in my interest level at the moment.

I rode a few bikes at LBS this past week, and found the Tricross Sport fit me pretty well in terms of comfort and has touring options that I like (space for rack, etc.) for my commute.

So: I've found a '09 Tricross Sport that seems to be relatively well maintained (the owner works at a bike shop, but needs cash) that I can get for $950.00. I haven't seen it yet, so I'm going to go tomorrow and check it out, but I'm curious as to what you all think regarding this, and whether the bike is a good value, and appropriate for me.

Obviously, I'm missing out on the professional fit and the 1-5 year maintenance warranties that all the LBS around here are missing, but I'm trying to figure out if having those things are worth the ~$1400 for buying it new? Do I need those sort of plans/support from a LBS as a new cycler?

Appreciate any thoughts you might have.

Even though I'm new to bike commuting I have a small piece of advice. Wear eye protection. I got whipped across the face last week by a tree branch. Dont want to think what would have happened if I didnt have my sun glasses on.

First of all, as others have said, the number 1 rule is do what works for you, and every setup is individual.

That said, in my opinion many of the posts here make commuting by bike seem waaaay too complicated. If I was seeing this while deciding if I should switch to bike commuting I would be intimidated and overwhelmed by all the stuff to buy! Racks, bags, vests, mirrors, eyewear...yikes!

All you need is a bike that you like to ride. Step 1. Get on bike. Step 2. Point toward work. Step 3. Pedal. For most people, I suspect the ride will be short (less than 5 miles). You don't need a hydration system if you're not riding long enough to get dehydrated. If you're going to change clothes when you get to work, fenders may not matter.

There are a lot of great tips in this thread. But don't feel like you need to study any of it before getting started. I've commuted by rail and bike, and I've had way more problems/delays/reroutes by rail. Start riding, and add equipment if you feel like you need it.

I commute thousands of miles a year with a very basic setup. Entry level road bike with durable Shimano 105. A medium Timbuk2 waterproof bag (I would buy a Large if I could do it over), with office clothes, a patch kit and pump, clothes, helmet mount front light, clip on rear light. Xtras that are nice: a back-up bike to ride while working on your main one, some an extra set of clothes at work in case you forget to pack something.


Ride on!

Does anyone have an opinion of C02 tire pumps. I carry one that also has multi tool but also have a frame mounted hand pump. I like the ideas that many of you have posted-certainly will use some of your ideas
mark

Go out and do it.

I only ride 4 miles each way but it is road ,grass and curb .Then I go to Lake Hefner and ride a little on the weekends my main short term goal is to make at least 40 miles per week . I rode to the Lake today and had a great ride and man there were a lot of people there today. One even better note I found a 20 dollar bill on the ground on the way home ... Logged 17 miles today because Gustav is threatening to dampen my ride ...

Does anyone have an opinion of C02 tire pumps. I carry one that also has multi tool but also have a frame mounted hand pump. I like the ideas that many of you have posted-certainly will use some of your ideas
mark.


I have been using CO2 inflators for years. A good frame pump will work just as good and inflate more than one tire.

Pro:
Fast
Small

Cons:
Cost
One tire per cartridge

I'm a belt-and-suspenders kind of guy so I usually carry both. If I'm on the way to work and am running late, I'll use the CO2. It's much faster. On the other hand, if I have time, I'd rather save the cartridge and pump by hand. It's the same reason I carry both a tube and a patch kit.

C02 vs. hand pump
 

I prefer the C02. I have carried both for years, but when I got a new bike I left the frame pump off. With good Kevlar lined hard-case tires I haven't had to use either on my own bike, just to help out other stranded bikers that had neither.

Hi everybody. I'm a new commuter to work, then possibly beyond. I live in San Antonio, TX. Or as I like to call it, the land of no bike paths and huge trucks. I am adapting and finding new ways to get around and getting much better at hills (yay). Which brings me to my question. I have one area that is uphill, no shoulder and the road in under construction at the very top of the hill. Where the construction is, the right lane is closed. Does anyone have any suggestions about how to merge back in with the traffic without having to stop. I suppose I could go through the zone, but I worry that people are going even faster on the back half, and it could be more dangerous. Right now I use hand signals, and waiting until there is a gap. Any thoughts would be great!


Oh btw, I have been lurking for a while and have been using all the tips that you guys have given. Y'all are awesome!

...and more specifically that no reasonable person sitting on a jury will believe.


Eventually every rider is probably going to get hit. You don't want there to be any doubt in the jury's mind or insurance company with whom the fault rests. It's also why I ride with a handlebar video camera running during my commutes.

Proactively, I also had my wife snap pictures of what I look like at night and during the day from a driver's perspective.

Please post the brand of camera that you use, and information on how you mounted it.

I like your idea of getting your picture taken... I'm going to do that too!

I've only just started commuting places on my bike, mainly because I can't afford a good lock yet and I live near Trenton, NJ. The only places I go currently are places that allow me to roll my bike inside (MA/7-11 after 2 AM) but hopefully after my next pay check and subsequent birthday money I can start commuting to more places more frequently.

The only problem: I can't commute to work! I have a paper route as a temp job and BELIEVE me I pay 80 dollars a week in gas and have to get my car's oil changed once a month + tranny fluid. I only make 270/wk before tax so this kind of sucks...a lot.

The problem is these routes are larger since most people have done away with bike routes and have moved to motor distribution. This means most routes average 200 newspapers, and on weekends it can be disgustingly heavy. From just trying to carry 20 standard Saturday papers at once, I have bruises all up and down my neck from the weight of the bag.

Save for the weekends, since they tend to run so large and heavy, would it be possible to fit multiple rolled up and bagged newspapers into adequately sized panniers? The problem would be easy access while riding so I wouldn't have to stop and throw and re-load every few houses... but if anyone else does this or has an idea, please let me know so I can make the change from motor to pedal distributor ;P

So next up is my helmet and gloves and lock but I still need lights.. Turnin 21 in 9 days so hopefully by now everyone knows what to get me lmao.. here's hoping!

I'm going to estimate that my panniers could hold about 8 rolled newspapers each. Reaching them in a pannier shouldn't be a problem while riding, it would just take some practice. The best would be a grocery style pannier with no flap over the top. That would be easiest to grab out of, and it would hold more papers too.

I could also wear carrier bags bandolier style over both shoulders, lol. A front basket might not be a bad idea either. What do you think?

Could I take panniers on and off depending on the purpose of my ride? Grocery panniers for one circumstance and other types for hauling other goods or equipment?

Just an FYI...

As an option I sometimes pack the trunk of my car with clothes, and other necessities - I then drive it to work in the beginning of the week and then leave it at work. I use it as a locker, and at times as a bike rack (I have a roof rack - it can also swallow 1 bike since it's a hatchback). Come Friday, I drive it home just in case I need it for family trips during the weekend.

Yes, most of the panniers out there are easy to put on and take off. You must expand on what you mean by "equipment".

- If you want the ultimate rack - www.xtracycle.com
- See the Utility forum
- Checkout these pics

http://www.flickr.com/groups/xtracycle/pool/

Sorry I shouldn't have used the term equipment. I won't be hauling anything huge that I can forsee in the near future, but thank you for the link, the Xtracycle looks VERY useful. "Art Supplies", "School Supplies" and "Wargame Miniatures" is more in the cards than anything.

Basically an 18x24 portfolio with drawing pads and such inside, or depending on the time/place/class an 11x17 or 8x10 portfolio w/ supplies and a tool box or small case with relevant supplies inside. Textbooks would also need to be transported and I'd like to use the panniers to carry them to take some of the weight off my back.

Miniature wargames = just a soft "army case". Like this:

http://www.boardgames.ca/productimag...ase_detail.jpg

Fragile stuff. I presume I'd be able to just affix that to a rack with bungee cords, though.

Okay, so I have been commuting soley by bike for about 3 months now. My commute is a short one, work is only 1.5 miles away. But I also ride my bike everywhere else as well. I currently have a Specialized Hardrock Sport 08 model that I just bought new. I also bought some road tires for it to make it roll smoother, but about once a week I go mountain biking...hence the mountain bike.

The point is that winter is coming up and I don't want road grime and salt to ruin my nice new bike, so I am looking to build a commuter, or buy one for a cheap price. I am thinking of going with a single speed, how do you feel about that?

If everything works out alright I can build one for free through this program at the college I attend. If you volunteer 10 hours of your time into helping fix other peoples bikes, or the ones they rent to the students then you get to build your own, out of their stock, or what you bring in for free. I plan on doing that.

Thanks.