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Originally Posted by Bjforrestal
(Post 15903051)
Didn't get a level and a protractor, sorry. Tried mapquest, google maps, but don't give elevations. I can get up the hills, sometimes have to drop to lowest gear, 30/32. Just want more low gear options, lowest gear doesn't necessarily need to climb a wall, but want a better low range to get more comfortable in the climbs.
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Originally Posted by Bjforrestal
(Post 15903051)
Didn't get a level and a protractor, sorry. Tried mapquest, google maps, but don't give elevations. I can get up the hills, sometimes have to drop to lowest gear, 30/32. Just want more low gear options, lowest gear doesn't necessarily need to climb a wall, but want a better low range to get more comfortable in the climbs.
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Originally Posted by GeoKrpan
(Post 15898012)
500 ft. / (5280 ft. x 8 miles) = a little more than 1% average grade. ******************************?
This would be like looking at a cross country bike ride of 3000 miles where the highest elevation was 6500' and saying the average grade was so minimal I would not need much gearing. Can't we just take the OP at his word and help him figure out how to make his new commute a fun challenge rather than a grueling trial every day. My reason for asking about elevation gain was simply to figure out what kind of climbing the commute involved- short steep climbs? One long climb? A bunch of "rollers"? IMO, this helps in knowing what kind of gearing, bike choice, tire sizes and riding style would best help the rider. One other strategy is a training strategy. Often commuting cyclists use their commutes and transportation needs as the sole means by which they achieve fitness and that can be effective. But when you get a sudden change in your commute, like the OP, sometimes it's worth it to devote some time to some training rides. Taking a day and finding the toughest, steepest, longest climb you can and doing a series of hill repeats until you can't do one more and then giving yourself a couple of days for recovery and then going back to your commute may make those hills feel like nothing in no time. (Repeat as necessary) |
Per the OP, "Granted, coming home is a blast. Downhill 8 miles".
Evidently it is not rolling terrain.
Originally Posted by buzzman
(Post 15903996)
Talk about a good example of how math and "statistics" can lead to wrong conclusions.
This would be like looking at a cross country bike ride of 3000 miles where the highest elevation was 6500' and saying the average grade was so minimal I would not need much gearing. Can't we just take the OP at his word and help him figure out how to make his new commute a fun challenge rather than a grueling trial every day. My reason for asking about elevation gain was simply to figure out what kind of climbing the commute involved- short steep climbs? One long climb? A bunch of "rollers"? IMO, this helps in knowing what kind of gearing, bike choice, tire sizes and riding style would best help the rider. One other strategy is a training strategy. Often commuting cyclists use their commutes and transportation needs as the sole means by which they achieve fitness and that can be effective. But when you get a sudden change in your commute, like the OP, sometimes it's worth it to devote some time to some training rides. Taking a day and finding the toughest, steepest, longest climb you can and doing a series of hill repeats until you can't do one more and then giving yourself a couple of days for recovery and then going back to your commute may make those hills feel like nothing in no time. (Repeat as necessary) |
Originally Posted by buzzman
(Post 15903996)
Talk about a good example of how math and "statistics" can lead to wrong conclusions.
This would be like looking at a cross country bike ride of 3000 miles where the highest elevation was 6500' and saying the average grade was so minimal I would not need much gearing. Can't we just take the OP at his word and help him figure out how to make his new commute a fun challenge rather than a grueling trial every day. My reason for asking about elevation gain was simply to figure out what kind of climbing the commute involved- short steep climbs? One long climb? A bunch of "rollers"? IMO, this helps in knowing what kind of gearing, bike choice, tire sizes and riding style would best help the rider. One other strategy is a training strategy. Often commuting cyclists use their commutes and transportation needs as the sole means by which they achieve fitness and that can be effective. But when you get a sudden change in your commute, like the OP, sometimes it's worth it to devote some time to some training rides. Taking a day and finding the toughest, steepest, longest climb you can and doing a series of hill repeats until you can't do one more and then giving yourself a couple of days for recovery and then going back to your commute may make those hills feel like nothing in no time. (Repeat as necessary) Cheapest, possibly best option, from a fitness/cycling perspective. Fastest problem solved, chain the cranks and rings to the deore touring set I posted, and the cassette to the 12-36, 29'er. Gives you quite a few options and a much lower range. Next best, and cheaper than above, put the fewest # of teeth on your small chainring, just not sure how much lower you can get the gearing on the 105 crank/spindle. |
please excuse my sidebar,
buzzman, where in the berkshires are you. I was just out there for an overnight in adams, n adams & williamstown. there are some serious hills out there for sure. hope you got better tires for those descents, can't imagine a flat then would be pleasant |
Originally Posted by GeoKrpan
(Post 15904102)
Per the OP, "Granted, coming home is a blast. Downhill 8 miles".
Evidently it is not rolling terrain. Mine is about 500 feet change according to googling elevation points...so I go down 200 feet in about a mile, then I'm at the river. Cross river, and start climbing 500 feet over 8 miles with a couple of miles of flat here and there. Sounds like nothing compared to your climb but again, so conditioned to 12 miles right next to the Pacific Ocean, don't think I could've gotten a flatter commute if it tried. I'm going to look into a few options. Also seems like my bike doesn't climb efficiently out of the saddle. Got a trek 520, maybe it's my Arms and legs that are noodly and not the frame....running 32s nothing too fat, good tire pressure. Going to do a few adjustments, and keep truckin! To Rumrun- I'm in Becket at the top of a mountain I leave my front door and am hitting 40 mph within a couple of minutes without spinning the pedals. Coming home is a little tougher.;) |
IF you are managing with the 30:32 combo, I'd just change the cassette and see how that works. You might not need any other changes that might affect shifting quality on the front.
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Originally Posted by buzzman
(Post 15903996)
Originally Posted by GeoKrpan
(Post 15898012)
500 ft. / (5280 ft. x 8 miles) = a little more than 1% average grade. ******************************?
This would be like looking at a cross country bike ride of 3000 miles where the highest elevation was 6500' and saying the average grade was so minimal I would not need much gearing. Can't we just take the OP at his word and help him figure out how to make his new commute a fun challenge rather than a grueling trial every day. My reason for asking about elevation gain was simply to figure out what kind of climbing the commute involved- short steep climbs? One long climb? A bunch of "rollers"? IMO, this helps in knowing what kind of gearing, bike choice, tire sizes and riding style would best help the rider. One other strategy is a training strategy. Often commuting cyclists use their commutes and transportation needs as the sole means by which they achieve fitness and that can be effective. But when you get a sudden change in your commute, like the OP, sometimes it's worth it to devote some time to some training rides. Taking a day and finding the toughest, steepest, longest climb you can and doing a series of hill repeats until you can't do one more and then giving yourself a couple of days for recovery and then going back to your commute may make those hills feel like nothing in no time. (Repeat as necessary) |
Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun
(Post 15904517)
IF you are managing with the 30:32 combo, I'd just change the cassette and see how that works. You might not need any other changes that might affect shifting quality on the front.
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8 miles, up.
Ok, I got mapmyride, but I guess I didn't hit record, and didnt realize it recorded elevation, so Thursday I will hit record and submit the results. It is rolling, but rolling up apparently. The uphills on the way home are nothing, no concerns and have 3 very decent descents, ended abruptly by stop lights, signs, etc. the overall change in elevation, again, is not a crazy amount, but it kicks my butt. Hoping in a few months it will be much easier since my body and brain are a little more used to it.
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Originally Posted by Bjforrestal
(Post 15904990)
Ok, I got mapmyride, but I guess I didn't hit record, and didnt realize it recorded elevation, so Thursday I will hit record and submit the results. It is rolling, but rolling up apparently. The uphills on the way home are nothing, no concerns and have 3 very decent descents, ended abruptly by stop lights, signs, etc. the overall change in elevation, again, is not a crazy amount, but it kicks my butt. Hoping in a few months it will be much easier since my body and brain are a little more used to it.
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Be advised that Shimano doesn't recommend using the 12-36 cassette on regular road hubs due to the torque you can generate with that 36T cog:
Shimano HG61 9-Speed Cassettes. FW6005 12-36t 29'er-specific cassettes must be used with either M529 (6-bolt) or M629 (centerlock) hubs, which are designed and manufactured specifically to withstand the extra torque load exerted by the 36t low gear Use of the 12-36t cassettes with other hubs may result in hub-failure and may void warranty coverage If you can put a smaller granny ring on that triple, that's what I'd do. |
Originally Posted by ThermionicScott
(Post 15905048)
Be advised that Shimano doesn't recommend using the 12-36 cassette on regular road hubs due to the torque you can generate with that 36T cog:
Shimano HG61 9-Speed Cassettes. FW6005 12-36t 29'er-specific cassettes must be used with either M529 (6-bolt) or M629 (centerlock) hubs, which are designed and manufactured specifically to withstand the extra torque load exerted by the 36t low gear Use of the 12-36t cassettes with other hubs may result in hub-failure and may void warranty coverage If you can put a smaller granny ring on that triple, that's what I'd do. |
Originally Posted by ursle
(Post 15902269)
Originally Posted by Bjforrestal
(Post 15898383)
You really think I'd consider changing gearing for 1 %? It's over 12 miles, lots more up than down. I'm used to flat. Why am I even justifying myself?
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Originally Posted by RubeRad
(Post 15905035)
Originally Posted by Bjforrestal
(Post 15904990)
Ok, I got mapmyride, but I guess I didn't hit record, and didnt realize it recorded elevation, so Thursday I will hit record and submit the results. It is rolling, but rolling up apparently. The uphills on the way home are nothing, no concerns and have 3 very decent descents, ended abruptly by stop lights, signs, etc. the overall change in elevation, again, is not a crazy amount, but it kicks my butt. Hoping in a few months it will be much easier since my body and brain are a little more used to it.
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I remember when the 12-36 first came out. Some people got all excited, like it was going to unleash their climbing prowess. The reality is that it's only one gear inch lower than a 12-34. Extra torque? I think that's shameless hype.
Originally Posted by ThermionicScott
(Post 15905048)
Be advised that Shimano doesn't recommend using the 12-36 cassette on regular road hubs due to the torque you can generate with that 36T cog:
Shimano HG61 9-Speed Cassettes. FW6005 12-36t 29'er-specific cassettes must be used with either M529 (6-bolt) or M629 (centerlock) hubs, which are designed and manufactured specifically to withstand the extra torque load exerted by the 36t low gear Use of the 12-36t cassettes with other hubs may result in hub-failure and may void warranty coverage If you can put a smaller granny ring on that triple, that's what I'd do. |
Maybe it's mental but after the mile climb, I feel every single incline. On the way home, none of it bothers me.
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8 miles, up.
Here we go..
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Originally Posted by GeoKrpan
(Post 15905351)
I remember when the 12-36 first came out. Some people got all excited, like it was going to unleash their climbing prowess. The reality is that it's only one gear inch lower than a 12-34. Extra torque? I think that's shameless hype.
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Originally Posted by Bjforrestal
(Post 15905309)
I have 700 cc on deore hubs, will I be ok?
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Originally Posted by ThermionicScott
(Post 15905485)
Originally Posted by Bjforrestal
(Post 15905309)
I have 700 cc on deore hubs, will I be ok?
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Wondered, 8 miles up is over 40,000 feet, air is rather thin that high , and you have 747's flying by.
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
(Post 15905607)
Wondered, 8 miles up is over 40,000 feet, air is rather thin that high , and you have 747's flying by.
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Originally Posted by Bjforrestal
(Post 15903051)
Didn't get a level and a protractor, sorry. Tried mapquest, google maps, but don't give elevations. I can get up the hills, sometimes have to drop to lowest gear, 30/32. Just want more low gear options, lowest gear doesn't necessarily need to climb a wall, but want a better low range to get more comfortable in the climbs.
So if you state the starting and ending points, a chart will appear magically;) |
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