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Both rear fender and rack?
Hi.
I have a Trek 7.5 FX. The bike has rack/fender mounts. I already installed fenders (both front and rear) to prepare for the rainy season. Now, I wonder if I can still install a rear rack on top of the rear fender? I hope they're not mutually exclusive. Thanks in advance! |
Well, my world tourist had both on it when I got it.
Just be sure to get a rack that's high enough to not rub the fender. The tourist's rack had rubbed the paint off the fender. Edit: Oops, I clicked on yours by mistake :o |
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<--My bike has both w/one eyelet at the dropout. It can be done, though you may want to make a trip to the local Ace and get slightly longer bolts, washers, and nylocks.
The OEM mounting hardware is typically sized just for that products application or something, because I had the bottom ones pop out a time or two before seeking advice (which generated the shopping list for Ace). Edit: I figured I'd rather have y'all look at an attached pic that expands upon clicking than land on my profile page if you clicked on my avatar. Also looks like I don't have the rear fender installed... |
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Double edit, LOL.
Anyways, found a picture. This bike is currently in bits in my kitchen and I'm fixing paint... but this was how I brought it home. Note how it rubs at the back and top. May want to avoid that. http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=336923 |
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Seems to me like you shouldn't have a problem. My 26" wheels left a ton of clearance between the fenders and rack. I would think the 700 wheels/fenders would have enough room under a rack like that.
http://i.imgur.com/oBN0Pm5l.jpg |
My Allant came with both, although it has eyelets for both. Either way, you shouldn't have a problem.
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My 86 Rockhopper "grocery getter" w/Wald folding baskets.
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=336943 |
Just use longer fine thread 5mm metric bolts on the single eyelets in back. Available at any hardware store. Clearance is not an issue per the 7.2FX below.
https://dl.dropbox.com/s/uj4skprligl...2016.05.29.jpg |
OP doing another over-thinking exercise , it seems a common trait , here :rolleyes:
Seattle , why giving it a second thought ? mudguards , yes , Rack & panniers to carry rain-gear to wear, yes. |
Thanks everyone. Looks like I'm good to go. Just have to make a trip to Ace Hardware for longer 5mm bolts, and a bike shop for a rack. :)
Originally Posted by fietsbob
(Post 15999918)
OP doing another over-thinking exercise , it seems a common trait , here :rolleyes:
Seattle , why giving it a second thought ? mudguards , yes , Rack & panniers to carry rain-gear to wear, yes. |
Put the parts in order:
frame eyelet Rack stay Fender stay washer Bolt. This reduces leverage by the heavily loaded rack on the bolt. On some frames, the bolt may work its way out, even when tightened, due to some weird mechanical process which looks like vodoo. I had this happen a few times on my Al frame. The solution is to replace the plain washer with a seratted, anti-rotation star washer. I would only use an additional Nylock nut on frames with plain, unthreaded eyelets. You need a bolt long enough to protrude a couple of threads but not so long as to interfere with the chain. Stainless steel M5 allen bolts from any hardware store are best. Many racks and fenders come with low-grade bolts. |
I went for a stronger steel Bolt when I built my touring bike , hex head is stamped 8.8.. they are not stainless
But stainless is probably good enough with so many Boats on the water in Seattle marine Stainless hardware is easy to find./ |
Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun
(Post 15999547)
My 86 Rockhopper "grocery getter" w/Wald folding baskets.
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=336943 |
Originally Posted by Squeeze
(Post 16000750)
Quick off topic question - hope no one minds. Bill, any complaints with those folding baskets? I'm considering ordering some but haven't found a bike shop with any in stock and I'm always hesitant to order things on faith. I like to see and touch things in person before buying them, but I realize that's oh so 20th century of me. How is riding with a load in just one side? I'm guessing no problem but am curious. Thank you.
You really don't notice one side loaded unless it's a heavy load AND you are doing a very slow turn or super low speed. "Normal" riding and your body pretty much automatically leans the bike over a bit that you don't notice it. I weigh 230 and simply can't see any lean to the bike, but I'm sure there is a tiny amount. I DO like the folding feature. They are quite heavy. OTOH, I don't feel they really have a weight limit. I consider the two 5mm mounting bolts on my rack are the limiting factor. I have a self imposed 50 lb. limit due to the bolts. I just don't know how much weight they can support and still handle a jolt such as a pot hole you didn't see in time. I figure the rack & baskets are about 10 lbs., so a total load of 60ish? One thing I forgot- I wear size 13 shoes, so I have to have the baskets a bit further back. When loading the biketo a full load,the front wheel only has about a pound or so down force. This wants to allow the bike to pivot on the kick stand and flop over. I load the right (high side ) basket first and then kind of hold the bike down with one hand when I top off the L side. |
Thanks for taking the time to reply and help a commuting newbie, Bill. Much appreciated.
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I think your drop outs has 2 sets of holes. I recently mounted racks on 3 Trek FX bikes this past spring, and I think I remember seeing extra holes and thinking, cool bikes, good to know for future commuting needs. if not, just double up. there's a California shop, like an official Trek accessory store, where I bought one of the racks, they seem pretty well informed and can hook you up with the right fenders.
http://www.trekbicyclesuperstore.com...SiteSearch.y=9 |
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