Bike Forums - Where did all the IGH bikes go?

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I have a question that is perhaps beyond moronic, but, can gearing be adjusted on IGH? LIke, if I never use the lowest gear?

BTW I am a librarian and realize that this question should be filed under "There are no stupid questions... only stupid people" which is pretty much my motto in life.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sareybelle (Post 16086672)

I have a question that is perhaps beyond moronic, but, can gearing be adjusted on IGH? LIke, if I never use the lowest gear?

the gearing within the IGH mechanism itself cannot be adjusted, but the gear ratio between your chain ring and cog can be adjusted to give you a gear range that works for you.

if the low on your IGH bike is too low to be useful for you, just put a bigger chain ring on your crank. that will raise the gear range of your IGH. conversely, if your high is too high, get a smaller chain ring to lower the gear range.

GRACIAS. that makes sense.

Also you can change the cog on the hub in some cases. Shimano do have different size cogs for their Alfine hubs.

If you want to get really technical, SRAM have a "Dual Drive" where they bolt a dérailleur onto a gear hub.

http://www.sram.com/sram/urban/products/sram-dd3-24

http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/ls...-ii_24_web.jpg

not to mention if there is 1 cog on the back hub , with a spring loaded chain tensioner
it is practical to use 2 different sizes of chainrings on the crankset, to adjust the functional range
or subtly adjust the ratio

not to mention the NuVinci CVR hub which is infinitely variable within 180% up and down
of the external chain wheel ratio.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steely Dan (Post 16082318)

i have a 2011 Scott SUB 10 - an alfine 8, hydraulic disc brake, aluminum hybrid (but still with a conventional chain, the SUB 10 model switched to a gates carbon belt drive in 2012).

it's an ok bike, but i wouldn't recommend it. the EBB necessary for chain tension constantly slips out of alignment regardless of how tight the mechanic at my LBS gets the external clamp bolts. if anyone is looking for an IGH/disc brake bike (ie. you have to have vertical drop-outs), i would strongly advise going with a bike with sliding rear vertical dropouts over an EBB for chain tension.

i also disliked the aluminum fork that came with the bike, so i switched it out for a carbon fork. the bike isn't awful, but it's also FAR from my favorite...

I wonder if the internal diameter of your bottom bracket shell was made too big? My Metropolis also has an eccentric bottom bracket and it's never slipped. I wouldn't say it's my favorite bike - it's just transportation, better in heavy traffic than my touring bike and better in snowy conditions than a derailleur geared bike. If I want fun, I ride one of my other machines.

Quote:

Originally Posted by CaptCarrot (Post 16087143)

Also you can change the cog on the hub in some cases.

Yep. Cogs are generally less expensive than chainwheels. For up gearing, I'd usually recommend going to a smaller cog if possible and removing a link(s) of chain rather than spending more for a larger chainwheel and buying a new, longer chain.

In an almost unbelievable convergence in the industry, Shimano 3-, 4-, 5-, 7-, 8- and 11-speed, SRAM 2-, 3-, 5- and 7-speed and Sturmey-Archer 2-, 3-, 4-, 5- and 7-speed IGH cogs are pretty much all interchangeable (there are a few exceptions and limitations) and interchangeable with the cogs on many single-speed coaster brake hubs. These three-tab standard cogs are available from 13T to 24T for 1/8 and 3/32 chain in flat, dished and deep dished patterns.

Lotsa IGH bike models on display @ Interbike. I liked this Torker 3-speed road bike.