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Locking Problem Solved?
Well, I think I have solved my locking problem (for now). I ended up getting the Knog Strongman. I was able to use some discounts that I had, so the price was decent. I went with the Strongman, because of its' high security rating, use of protective silicone, and (to be frank ... :lol:) its' cool looks. I, also, have a Knog PartyFrank for my front wheel/frame. Although, I am considering getting something else (a cable, perhaps?) to back up both of these, but I'm not sure.
I am going with this set-up, because I live near a college campus, so the risk of theft is high, but I do not live in a huge city, such as Brooklyn, Chicago, Manhattan, SF etc. Of course, the risk of theft is high anywhere, but as everyone knows, it is how you lock up, as well as where, that is just as important, (perhaps more?) as the quality of locks you use. Eventually, (hopefully, I will be moving soon to a bigger city, such as, Alberta, Chicago, Toronto etc.) I hope to get a chain lock for my rear locking set-up, and use the Strongman for my front locking set-up, but that will be in the future. Suggestions? As always, I appreciate all the help you guys offer! :) |
the strongman is not that bad but that cables core is only 5mm.
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Take 2 mins extra to find a bike nicer than yours to park next to and if your locks look stronger than the other guys your battle is half way done.
if your bike is truly targeted it doesn't realy matter what locks you have it will go. Just make sure your locks are good enough to satisfy your insurance and go ride. |
I Like Abus Hardened Chain locks . they have a cover like a nylon hose.
Or look for something really heavy , lock stays on the rack .. tell campus security , and agree on a code* label, so if they want you to move the lock they will call and ask you rather than just grind it off. *Code rather than actual personal info. I moved away from a college Or hip Bike town , theft potential reduced as a result. |
i looked at that lock and went with this instead:
http://www.amazon.de/Kryptonite-B%C3...rds=kryptonite because the Gesamtverbandes der Deutschen Versicherungswirtschaft rated it a GdS Klasse A+ good value for money |
Originally Posted by alex jb
(Post 16232785)
if your bike is truly targeted it doesn't realy matter what locks you have it will go. Just make sure your locks are good enough to satisfy your insurance and go ride. |
Originally Posted by roashru
(Post 16232134)
the strongman is not that bad but that cables core is only 5mm.
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
(Post 16232855)
I Like Abus Hardened Chain locks . they have a cover like a nylon hose.
Or look for something really heavy , lock stays on the rack .. tell campus security , and agree on a code* label, so if they want you to move the lock they will call and ask you rather than just grind it off. *Code rather than actual personal info. I moved away from a college Or hip Bike town , theft potential reduced as a result. Right now, I have no true need (hopefully I'm not jinxing myself by saying that) or means to transport or leave a chain lock for commuting, as most of my stuff is back and forth and not staying in one place for a viable amount of time to leave a chain overnight. |
Most of my destinations are cafe's with lots of windows and people sitting there so theft is somewhat unlikely and for ease I simply use my ring lock, similar to this:
http://localmile.org/wp-content/uplo...5/DSC_1145.jpg If I need more I'll take along an Abus Bordo which I think is considerably more secure than any cable or chain and stores easily. |
Originally Posted by LiteraryChic
(Post 16232975)
That is why the cable is only a back-up. That is why I am also considering a third locking option, too. I'm just not sure which.
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Locks that are defeated in less than 5 seconds are useless even if you park your bicycle in front of the coffee shop. 5 seconds most of the time is less than the time it takes to turn your head away to buy your coffee or even reach your bike after you've noticed the thief. It is playing with fire.
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Originally Posted by CrankyOne
(Post 16233180)
Most of my destinations are cafe's with lots of windows and people sitting there so theft is somewhat unlikely and for ease I simply use my ring lock, similar to this:
http://localmile.org/wp-content/uplo...5/DSC_1145.jpg If I need more I'll take along an Abus Bordo which I think is considerably more secure than any cable or chain and stores easily. |
One can trap the end loop of a cable in the ring lock, to attach the bike to something solid.
Blue and yellow.. a good color scheme for Stockholm. |
Originally Posted by CrankyOne
(Post 16233180)
If I need more I'll take along an Abus Bordo which I think is considerably more secure than any cable or chain and stores easily.
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Originally Posted by chaadster
(Post 16234519)
Yeah, um, you'll want to look some ratings up, because they tell a different story (depending on Bordo model, of course).
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Originally Posted by CrankyOne
(Post 16233180)
Most of my destinations are cafe's with lots of windows and people sitting there so theft is somewhat unlikely and for ease I simply use my ring lock, similar to this:
http://localmile.org/wp-content/uplo...5/DSC_1145.jpg If I need more I'll take along an Abus Bordo which I think is considerably more secure than any cable or chain and stores easily. |
Originally Posted by erig007
(Post 16233664)
Locks that are defeated in less than 5 seconds are useless even if you park your bicycle in front of the coffee shop. 5 seconds most of the time is less than the time it takes to turn your head away to buy your coffee or even reach your bike after you've noticed the thief. It is playing with fire.
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Got this off of Knog's website. For some reason, I thought the steel was a higher grade/rating.
Cable Diameter: Party Frank: Cable Diameter 12mm, Steel Cable Diameter 5mm. Any suggestions for secondary lock? Not a huge fan of running a cable from the front to the rear with the lock. Too odd to lug around. Thoughts? Thanks! |
Originally Posted by LiteraryChic
(Post 16236017)
Any suggestions for secondary lock?
Not a huge fan of running a cable from the front to the rear with the lock. That would be my first choice. Too odd to lug around. So?? This guy gets it right...........locks--not his hair. Video 1 of 3. There's 2 more + a few more. For the biggest part, I go by the what he shows. I think the best thing you have done is get a Knog. It is so different that I bank on crackheads moving to the next bike instead of figuring out how to defeat it. They are, by nature, too lazy to think. |
Saw this on Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0019R...074?pc_redir=C). Sorry I'm on my iPhone, and can't make it an actual link. Then, I saw this one (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000P6...110_SY165_QL70).
Thoughts on either one as a secondary? |
The Master lock could loop itself around something a u-lock won't reach, thread through the front wheel and lock to the Knog on the back wheel/frame. My smaller Knog won't reach around the frame and rear wheel, I just thread the cable through front wheel, big frame triangle then to Knog around rear wheel.
I would forget the first "cuff" lock that you linked to. At some point, anything you get is better than nothing yet not good enough. You can only stop the idiots......a pro will get your bike no matter how you lock it with however many expensive as you care to get locks. You can only use "security level" indications on lock mfg. sites, cost, weight, trouble and theft rate where you leave your bike to determine what it would take to make you a bit more confident your pride is secure. |
not good to use master lock in a high risk area. i use onguard brute series u-locks and chains they can be found low priced sometimes. kryptonite fahgettaboudit series are always expensive. then i have a 6 foot 10mm cable lock with a cast padlock for the front wheel or used primarily in good neighborhoods.
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Originally Posted by gregjones
(Post 16236106)
It's said to be best if you have two completely different types of locks, like u-lock and cable. A thief would have to carry different tools to get around each.
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Originally Posted by gregjones
(Post 16236191)
The Master lock could loop itself around something a u-lock won't reach, thread through the front wheel and lock to the Knog on the back wheel/frame.
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Originally Posted by CrankyOne
(Post 16235860)
I think the original Bordo had less strong rivets, but reviews I'd seen of the newer ones seem equal or better than U locks. None are perfect but the Bordo has the advantage of taking longer for typical tools that a thief is likely to have like angle grinders or crowbars and combined with the ring lock on the rear wheel make my bike less inviting. Kind of like the old story of not needing to outrun a bear, but only run faster than the other guy, I'd mostly just like to make mine less inviting than other options. That's about all anyone can do.
Of course that's not to say the Bordo is insufficient, and I certainly get the appeal of the design, but to say Bordo is considerably more secure than any chain and equal or better than U locks is simply the wrong way to phrase, and look at, things. |
Originally Posted by LiteraryChic
(Post 16236017)
Got this off of Knog's website. For some reason, I thought the steel was a higher grade/rating.
Cable Diameter: Party Frank: Cable Diameter 12mm, Steel Cable Diameter 5mm. Any suggestions for secondary lock? Not a huge fan of running a cable from the front to the rear with the lock. Too odd to lug around. Thoughts? Thanks! Assuming you won't go for the 16mm minimum thickness Dlocks or chains what you probably need is actual deterrence more than true efficiency to avoid having your bike damaged by some failed attempt. Skewers are efficient but they are invisible. Your knog party franck lock brings weight but is not very efficient nor bring much deterrence. Your strongman lock is rated an average 3/5 by art (a test here) http://www.popularmechanics.com/tech...y-bike-locks-4 but it looks weak so that thieves could try to defeat it because of its apparent weakness damaging your bike during the process. A mix of Dlock and cable is as good as the Dlock that hold the two together. A weak cable is no match when compared to a strong Dlock. This weak cable will still attract the thief that wants to make easy money by stealing the front wheel without having to deals with the strong Dlock at the rear wheel assuming that the cable protect the front wheel and the Dlock the rear wheel. Furthermore, you will have hard time securing both your wheels and bike's frame to poles or racks with the strongman so you will need something else to do it. http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0CO1ozZ2q5...nog%2Block.JPG http://media.nbclosangeles.com/image...ctbikelock.jpg Below: a weak chain here. A strong one is at least 16mm thick. A chain in o shape rather than 8 gives easy room for inserting a tool http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xuxqF3phKi...00/photo+1.JPG Below: a good idea? even though the chain link is weak the shackles are not and will prevent a thief to ride, the weaknesses here are that it's easily pickable and that once the chain between the 2 shackles is cut the wheel is gone. http://www.bikehacks.com/.a/6a0120a7...bd68567970c-pi Below: why stop there? Two sides is better than just one. http://www.instructables.com/files/d...W151.LARGE.jpg Below: here is the result of what appears to be the combo Dlock + cable + skewers Protection offered by the cable? Skewer? http://carleton.ca/safety/wp-content...ycle_lock3.jpg http://thedependent.ca/wp-content/up...ly-secured.jpg Below: this chain is weak but the concept is there one heavy 1.2m or 1.5m 16mm minimum chain in place of 2 Dlocks. It's easier to attach to poles but it can be heavier than the 2 Dlocks combo. When you look at the ART list. 18mm Dlocks like Artago are rated 4 stars when some 14mm chains are rated 5 stars. At 16mm and thicker chains and Dlocks become impossible to bolt crop. http://www.stichtingart.nl/sloten_resultaat.asp http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...Chain_Wiki.jpg http://ww2.hdnux.com/photos/12/21/56.../6/628x471.jpg Saddle? Handlebar? Pedals? http://nymblog.com/wp-content/upload...G_3879-001.jpg To protect the paint from the lock For an uncoated Dlock: insert the lock shackle inside a vinyl tube/hose. If you want to make it permanent fill the gap between the hose and the shackle with some silicone rubber. For a chain, an old inner tube will protect the paint and will allow you to attach the padlock to other chain links to keep it tight If you wanna go further into securing your bike: -alarms -marking the frame -registering your bike -uglifying parts and frame -fixing movable parts with silicone, a soldering iron, skewers... -gps tracking -places with video camera, security guards etc .... |
Originally Posted by chaadster
(Post 16236655)
Well, before you said you thought the Bordo was "considerably more secure than any cable or chain," and now you're saying Ulock...really, you need to look up some certification agency ratings.
My Dutch is only passable so I didn't spend much time on the site. What do they say about being able to compromise the Bordo? |
Originally Posted by CrankyOne
(Post 16237327)
I'm not sure what your point is. I said that I think it is more secure than any cable or chain and I still think that. It also seems equal or better than U-locks and I still think that. I'm not sure where you see a contradiction. That's like saying that I like apples and then saying that I like oranges—there's no contradiction in that statement.
My Dutch is only passable so I didn't spend much time on the site. What do they say about being able to compromise the Bordo? SA does destructive testing on bike locks and grades them. The top Bordo is rated less secure than many chains and less secure than many u-locks. They do not discuss specific failure modes for rated locks. There is a YouTube or Vimeo video out there that is about the type of testing Stichting Art does, and if i can find it, I will link to it for you. Perhaps you can glean insight from that. |
Originally Posted by chaadster
(Post 16237564)
My point is that what you think is not correct, is not factually accurate, nor is it rational. The information required to make a sound assessment is available, but you choose to ignore it.
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Originally Posted by gregjones
(Post 16236106)
It's said to be best if you have two completely different types of locks, like u-lock and cable. A thief would have to carry different tools to get around each. And.....a good cable lock will go around the odd thing that a u-lock won't. I don't eat fast crap but Cheryl likes Wendy's junk. The only thing there to lock to is their gas meter. Cable works. U-lock--several feet short.
This guy gets it right...........locks--not his hair. Video 1 of 3. There's 2 more + a few more. For the biggest part, I go by the what he shows. I think the best thing you have done is get a Knog. It is so different that I bank on crackheads moving to the next bike instead of figuring out how to defeat it. They are, by nature, too lazy to think. |
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