Out of curiosity, what is the component list for the Schwinn Crossfit? A quick internet search yielded nothing reliable, so if you know that would be helpful.

Having a ring that can get to the whole cassette without running into interference is sweet to have, it makes running around town a lot nicer.

I have a 52/38 and have to use the 38 only in the lower end as it rubs the big gear after 4 cogs from low. The 52 goes end to end and is great for all but the worst of my hills. It would be nice to have less than 38 as on option, but that's it for the crankarms.

I've thought about a triple, having a friction shift front, it would't be any trouble. But, it's heavier, another expense to buy, would require an other bottom bracket and really wouldn't gain but a few (different) ratio's on the low end.

All in all, it's just easier to revert to Rule 5 somewhere in the middle of the hills.:)

^^^Exactly!
My Opus/Tank cost me $1500 its equipped with Tiagra, & weights in @ 24-26lbs loaded. I got her down to 23 with pedals,fender,& TT bag. I swapped out the 40's for 33's too.

My pit bike with 105 weights in @ around 21lbs.
She's OEM, but I put on a pair of Fulcrum CX7's.
My race rig varies from 18-20 lbs.


[MENTION=197614]fietsbob[/MENTION]
Most in the BF have a bike snob attitude, but not all

Just get a pair of bulletproof wheels.
I do stair on 2 of my CXers just fine.

Any big box franchise would have to build the bikes in house to save cost, why do you think they're so cheap.

Its not worth upgrading, even if you know how to do it yourself.
Buying a group set alone will set you back, then consider a new wheel set, accessories, etc.

Buying the best bike you can afford is always the best bet.
Even saving a bit longer to go up a model is a better option.
But buying a low end bike, & throwing a bunch of upgrades won't yield you much in the end. You'd be hard pressed to get that bike under 27-30lbs. Think about the added weight when its loaded.
Hills will not be fun, be will be doable.

My Nashbar road frame with Sora/Tourney and generic wheels is around 23 pounds. Considering the steel frame and fork would be 2 or 3 more, I don't see any reason why the Crossfit couldn't be around 25 pounds. If hybridbkrdr says he weighed it, I tend to believe him.

Which is why I asked what the components actually are. It's not that I don't believe Cyccommute, as I don't think he'd actually denigrate the components without knowing what they are to begin with, so knowing this would be helpful to anyone to evaluate the Crossfit without relying on generalizing "bikes like this" which may be similar in varying degree.

My CXer's have road components.
Most bikes like the crossfit with a triple use a miss mash of road& MTB components.
Bottom of the barrel road components + bottom of the barrel MTB components = No weight savings @ all.
I can't comment on the components on the cross fit since I don't have the data either, but I've worked on enough bikes to know whats generally used on these types.

I don't suggest that the OP buys the expensive bike cause I'm a snob, I'm on the side that if he's going to spend $ on upgrades, why not just buy the better bike to begin with.
Better components are not only more durable, but you ended up saving weight when you add it all up.
Weight is not generally a factor in commuting, but we all know if we can lose it somewhere, its much appreciated.
You body will thank you too. ;)

The more fun we have on our bikes, the more we ride them!

I weighted it twice in the store.

There's some room for speculation here. I mean it's a $650 bicycle in a department store. However, it's $500 on sale. My experience comparing Canadian Tire prices and other sites gives me the impression the sale price is usually the correct price, if I can put it like that. That's one reason I'd rather buy it at the sale price. I just checked xe.com and it shows at the current time, $500 CAD is $472 U.S.. That doesn't totally surprise me since the regular price form the Wal-Mart U.S. web site was over $400. However, I saw a Craigslist ad saying it had Microshift shifters. The Canadian Tire model has Shimano 2300 brifters (STI).

My assumption is that bicycle stores would need a bigger markup anyway since that's all they sell.

Apart from the shifters mentioned above, it has Shimano derailleurs (said to be 2300 on the side although they looked like non-series components).

Other parts described to me by the manufacturer were:
Prowheel crankset 50/39 170mm
VP (B73) bottom bracket
DNP 11-28T cassette (LY-1108CKC)
steel TSX fork (KK-G401)
Promax (160A) interrupter levers
Quando hubs (KT-A55F & KT-AYER)

I've ridden a $130 bicycle for over 7 years in the snow etc. I rode it yesterday in the snow. I know with only plastic fenders and a kickstand, it weights 37 lbs. With the lock on it, it's over 39 lbs. I have no question I'd be able to modify a $500 bike and probably ride it for years with some satisfaction.

Please find me a store that builds bicycles part by part. To my knowledge, bicycles are shipped with only the rear wheel, pedals and handlebars to be installed. This may be done by a subcontractor but it would be to me to do the final adjustments.

Years ago I had a superintendent who would not let me keep bicycles inside. So, I let them outside in the winter and rode with a helmet and ski pants to work in the winter. Because they were kept outside, a lot of them lasted only 1 or 2 years before I'd give them away. I owned a lot of different bicycles and have no problems doing the final adjustments myself because usually the saddle height and brake levers have to be adjusted to your fit anyway.

EDIT: I'd like to add as well. A lot of parts are often on sale on the Internet. So the cost to modify it for me wouldn't be too great.
Also, on the weight, I lifted some $500 to $600 (on sale) road bikes at Sports Experts and found them light. I have to make an effort to lift my $130 mountain bike. So I know there's at least a possibility that the Schwinn CrossFit really does weigh 24 lbs because I could lift it with both hands easily.
And one of the larger reasons for being interested in this model is the sloping to tube. If the top tube is 52.5cm, and the seat tube 50cm, it might have a 52 or 53cm seatpost with a top tube more parallel to the ground. Someone who said had the same measurements as me said he uses a 53cm. This would give me a chance to get a model with probably a better fit for me but with a more adequate standover clearance (in case I'd slip going up a muddy hill).

Just for giggles, I decided to make a pic of how I could modify the bike.
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=355074

I only use the small ring on serious climbs so for me a compact is perfect.

Any/all of our LBS will build a bike to your specs if you have the money.
They put out assembled bikes out for the sake of the customers.
Walk in, pick one, buy it, happy transaction.
If you work with a LBS in building "your" bike, they often prefer this since there's more room for profit.

How much $ would it cost to do those upgrades you have in mind?
Factor the price of the upgrades into the cost of the Schwinn.
Now look @ the others you have listed & compare.

2300 is functional, but I don't like the thumb shifting. I would go with the new Sora, or even Claris.
The new Sora group is on par with last gen Tiagra.

Again I'm not trying to sway you from the Schwinn, just trying to help you decide, & letting g you know from my own experiences.
If you have you heart set on the Schwinn, by all mean go for it.

I'm Canadian as well, the CT's in my region don't do a very good job of assembling their bikes.
I've often had to reassemble their bikes since people who've bought them had problems shortly after purchasing them.
Just things to keep in mind.

Bikes are usually shipped with the rear wheel, fork, crank, derailers, and saddle installed. The pedals, front wheel, and handlebars are installed. But in a Big Box store, that's all that is done.

In a bike shop, the bike is checked for problems and adjusted. In a good shop, derailers and brakes are adjusted. In a really good shop, the bike is checked for bearing adjustment, wheels are tensioned, saddles are properly positioned. Once you buy the bike, they'll help you with adjustments and give you at least one adjustment...which the bike will need...during the first 6 months. You also get coverage for frame problems and other issues that might arise.

Big Box store bikes are out the door and forgotten mostly because the guy in the back is building Christmas displays or assembling garden tractors, depending on the season...like July and December, respectively.

Even with parts off the Internet, you are going to have to spend significant money to modify any bike. And from your other posts, you are looking at costs that will drive the $500 close to the price of a $1000 bike. Wheels, shifters, brake levers, tape, new cables, new housing and the cost of having those modifications made gets you into the price range of a bike that costs much more and might not need the modifications. There's nothing wrong with upgrading a bike but it isn't cheap.

Are those the standard Kona road handlebars on there? They look to be very compact with minimal drop...me likey.

I have the impression I have to repeat myself. I can answer a lot of the previous comments just made here but it's starting to look like a waste of time.

If I was to get something like the Kinesis CrossLight 5T frame, I would still need to buy a lot of parts then maybe not even be satisfied with the posture on the bike anyway.
http://www.kinesisbikes.co.uk/produc...sslight/five-t

Fact is, I'd like to get bar-end shifters and separate brake levers at the minimum. This is getting a little boring but again, the frame is something I find rare, a sloping top tube with aluminium frame and steel fork. A lot of bikes can cost more yeah, but they can have disc brakes and carbon forks or frames which I don't even want.

-If there are things you don't want on a bike, don't list them as options.
-If a sloping top tube is what your after, list bikes with this geometry.

If your after a sloping top tube, you might want to look elsewhere.
CXers generally have straight top tubes, we have to carry/shoulder our bike over obstacles, up hills, through questionable terrain, so a sloping TT really doesn't work well.
Look @ hybrids, you might give up dropbars, but you get the geometry you want, & still get to upgrade.
Maybe even a few of the newer Gravel Grinder/MX offerings might fit the bill.

Again I'm not trying to sway you decision, just offering more options. We can't tell you what bike to buy, its up to you to test the bikes you have in mind, & choose the one that feels best to you.

Wow, hahaha, what is wrong? I said I was being ignored and this is a waste of time. The above post proved my point. Sheesh.

In any case, for people who can actually focus on what the real topic was, it was presenting various cross commuters that could be suitable to those people who are considering that type of option. (My own personal preferences leaning towards bikes with cantilever brakes, drop bars, eyelets for a backrack, no carbon, no disc brakes, clearance for fenders, aluminium frames, etc.)

You ask these questions, you have to expect this type of "attention". People are giving you their opinions.
If you want to shoot them down, that's fine.
Remember this... You asked for opinions...
Whether you agree with them or not, is not of our concern.

Tricross... Disc brakes.:rolleyes:
Cross rip...Disc brakes.:rolleyes:
Spark... Straight TT.:rolleyes:
Tosca... Straight TT.:rolleyes:
1971... Straight TT.:rolleyes:

In reality only the Andiamo, & the Crossfit fit your bill...:rolleyes: :thumb:
That's what's wrong here buddy!

Are you intentionally trolling? There are several models of the Trek CrossRip and Specialized TriCross. The base models don't have disc brakes. I never said straight top tube for anyone else interested.

Can you quote anywhere where I said I wanted advice?

Are you having cognitive distortions? Maybe you can look it up and find out.

Are you not looking to purchase a bike?
*_______
Do you prefer sloping TT?

*_______
Do the links you provided show disc brakes?
*_______
Did you indicate which model you were considering?
*_______


We can only work with the info you give us.
I'm just offering suggestions, did you somehow feel I had a gun to you head forcing not to buy the Schwinn, or something like this?
Get outside, & ride the cobwebs off your bike/brain.
Another example of the BF winter blues...
Ease up buddy!

This thread has run its course IMO, unsubbed...
Troll away.

I don't even remember if I posted in the thread before but just reading the last few posts about what you want - if I was reading them correctly - I think you need a Surly Cross-Check. The only thing it doesn't have for you is a sloping top tube. Otherwise its got nice canti brakes, bar end shifters, and all kinds of mounts for fenders, racks, etc etc. I just bought one myself -though not for commuting.

Another one I would recommend is the Novara Randonee: http://www.rei.com/product/816068/no...onee-bike-2014
http://www.rei.com/media/rr/89897dd8...09ddf1116d.jpg
It's a sharp looking bike with a slightly sloping top tube, canti brakes and bar end shifters and a bunch of rackmounts too

There may have been some misinterpretations on both sides, but I don't need the flack.

The previous should statements you made are called cognitive distortions by David Burns. And if you wanted to get your point across, I'm sure there are ways of doing it instead of telling people what to do.

They are the stock bars. I'm not sure they're quite as compact as that picture makes them look, but I'm happy with them. Here's another angle:

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8447/7...3cf604ee_c.jpg

Why not the Salsa Vaya? Sloping top tube, disc brakes and will supposedly fit up to 45s. I've had 42s on mine. I've done single track, used it to commute and done fully loaded touring on it. Handled great with front/rear panniers. It's a fun bike. I am strongly biased, but it is the perfect all around bike I'm my opinion....although that Jake ^^^^ looks pretty nice!

$$$$$ would be my guess.

Yeah, they are a little pricey. I built mine up from the frame and a donor bike from Craiglist, so it wasn't too bad.

I have a Topeak bag with a quick release mount that holds the bag out away from the interrupter levers, it's a tight fit but it works good for me.