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Every bike but one that I've owned in the last 30 years (rough count is 26 bikes) there has been toe overlap. The one that didn't have toe overlap was one of the most poor handling bikes I've ever been on. I never saw toe lap as or currently see it as a problem. I find heel strikes on the chain stays more annoying than toe overlap.
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Toe overlap is one of those topics no one really likes to bring up. Too emotional for many afflicted by the condition.
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Toe overlap on my CX700 w/ tight top tube and sportier handling.
Slow speed. Not that big o' deal, but is more annoying when running fenders. Didn't care, riding this bike w/o in hot, dry austin, tx. Central Ohio likes more fenders, hence more toe overlap issues on this ride. Something to consider if you plan to ride frequently in cold and wet. |
Originally Posted by peterw_diy
(Post 16448789)
As jralbert might say, think harder.
To put handlebars the right distance from the saddle, you need to adjust stem length. To use a a shorter stem you'd want a longer top tube. Longer top tube = longer front center (BB to front axle distance). Longer front center = less toe overlap. A bike that "fits" with a 120mm stem but has 20mm of overlap might do better, at least with regard to toe overlap, to have 20mm more top tube and a 20mm shorter stem. At least that's how I read the fork overhang comment. |
My 52cm has toe overlap. I was really concerned about it initially, but absolutely loved the bike. I have never crashed due to toe overlap and it takes very little time to acclimate to it. I wouldn't worry about it.
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There are some very bizarre responses here.
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Strange, some people seem to get so concerned over something that others don't ever think about.
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Yes, I would suggest you should not decide whether this is acceptable or not based on other people's opinions, since the opinions on both sides are so strong. Try it and see if it's OK. I heard about it and thought I couldn't live with it, and now I have two bikes with it. No big deal at all. When my foot hits the wheel, I'm moving at low speed. I don't have to react quickly. I either turn the wheel or stop pedaling. What's the big deal?
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To tell You the truth.. in my last 20 km ride no toe hit the wheel. It seems less worrying than what I thougth. .. And the bike is fantastic ! ;-)
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Originally Posted by alan s
(Post 16447296)
I'm going to suggest getting a unicycle. No toe overlap, even with clown shoes.
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With only a 30-inch inseam, it takes some work to avoid toe overlap for me. I build my own frames, I've experimented with various geometries, wheel sizes, top tube vs. stem length, etc. In the end, I don't mind modest toe overlap on touring and commuting bikes. I wouldn't want toe overlap if I were riding trials or technical mountain biking, but for normal road riding, it's no big deal, I'd rather have good handling and modest overlap than zero overlap and excessive rake or a stubby stem.
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On racing, sport and fitness bikes it isn't too much of an issue. If you ride loaded bikes with fenders on slow Multiple Use Paths covered in children, dogs, drunks, old people, potholes and posts then one day, your brain will get overloaded and you your sudden steering correction will be interrupted by toe.
TCO is a bug that is avoidable by correct choice of wheel diameter, crank length, and frame geometry. |
I had a 50c fixie. The toe-overlap made me realize fixies and small framers arent for me.
I was reminded of this thread yesterday riding home in the snow . . . I would have spent a lot of time picking myself up if I had the short bike :eek: :twitchy: |
Originally Posted by GamblerGORD53
(Post 16447759)
Toe overlap is cause by stem overhang. Almost all bikes are now designed this way.
A bike needs a 100mm stem like a hole in the head. A big rake helps some. Road frames are designed to run stems that are 80-120 mm to provide for proper riding position and going longer or shorter affects the handling and weight distribution, upright riding bicycles can use shorter stems since the weight bias is to the rear. Toe overlap is caused by large feet, and / or steeper headtubes and lower trail forks... |
Sub 50cm frames fitted with road wheels (700c or 27 inch) also have overlap issues... this has been addressed with slacker frame angles or in the case of Terry bicycles, using a smaller front wheel with a frame that is built to compensate for this height difference while retaining proper frame angles.
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Originally Posted by GamblerGORD53
(Post 16448807)
Short TTs on compact frames are what makes NO SENSE WHATSOEVER for non- racers.
Not to mention short wheel bases and weight weenieness. |
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