How do I get quicker on acceleration?
#1
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How do I get quicker on acceleration?
I want to get quicker at getting up to speed from a dead stop and at producing a quick burst of speed for a short distance. I have several places along my route where I have to stop to wait for traffic to clear before I can move across a major thoroughfare or where I am riding with traffic along a road with lots of stop lights. In both situations, I need to get moving quickly from a stand still. (In the first case, I need to get across that road before the next clump of traffic gets to me.)
I'm already a lot faster than I used to be, but feel like there must be a way to develop this skill intentionally. If I did interval training on weekends, would that help? Other ideas?
I'm already a lot faster than I used to be, but feel like there must be a way to develop this skill intentionally. If I did interval training on weekends, would that help? Other ideas?
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I do spin classes 3 days a week with LOTS of interval training. I also pretend that a car is flying up behind me so I have to move as quick as possible (yeah sounds weird, but it works).
#3
Vain, But Lacking Talent
I'm gonna go ahead and ask a stupid question: are you in the right gear? I once rode with a guy who was very strong on the straights, and even up inclines, but for some odd reason, he was shifting to a harder gear when coming to a stop. I think his thought process was that he could put more power down from a stop, but what ended up happening was me leaving him in the dust after every stop.
For my bikes, I generally know what my best "start" gear is, and make sure to be in that gear every time I come to a stop. An easier gear helps you spin it up more quickly, and therefore accelerate faster.
But if you're doing all that, then yeah, interval training is probably the only way. Or just blame it on the bike and get a new one. That always works.
For my bikes, I generally know what my best "start" gear is, and make sure to be in that gear every time I come to a stop. An easier gear helps you spin it up more quickly, and therefore accelerate faster.
But if you're doing all that, then yeah, interval training is probably the only way. Or just blame it on the bike and get a new one. That always works.
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Blaming the bike happened too: I've got one on order that has an IGH, so I'll be able to downshift even if I forget to do it while pedaling.
On the interval training: Any recommendations about how long for the hard effort vs. recovery and how many repetitions? I've never done HIIT before.
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Try a single speed, especially a fixie. Though you might be slower for the first fifteen feet, you'll get across the intersection faster from a dead stop than if you were working your way through the gears. You won't beat a geared bike at the top end, but, in traffic, you'll find your acceleration superior.
#6
Banned
Other than Just HTFU,
With an IGH, even if you stop in too high a gear , you can change to a lower one
while you wait for the light to change.
.. other than that , pick the back wheel off the ground and turn the cranks
so the wheel and drivetrain rotates,
to shift down to a lower gear to start off in.
With an IGH, even if you stop in too high a gear , you can change to a lower one
while you wait for the light to change.
.. other than that , pick the back wheel off the ground and turn the cranks
so the wheel and drivetrain rotates,
to shift down to a lower gear to start off in.
Last edited by fietsbob; 03-27-14 at 11:37 AM.
#7
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ride a single speed.
i'm out of the saddle at every acceleration (maybe 3-6 times on my commute in each direction.)
i'm out of the saddle at every acceleration (maybe 3-6 times on my commute in each direction.)
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Try a single speed, especially a fixie. Though you might be slower for the first fifteen feet, you'll get across the intersection faster from a dead stop than if you were working your way through the gears. You won't beat a geared bike at the top end, but, in traffic, you'll find your acceleration superior.
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I find the main thing that impacts my acceleration from a stop is clicking into my clipless pedals. The quicker I do that the quicker I can put full power down. Standing up and pedaling hard gets you going quicker. I think if I had a short urban only commute, I would use flat pedals for that reason. but since I have a much longer commute with a big climb and large percentage with no lights I prefer my clipless pedals.
Try experimenting with different gears and see what works best. To big of a gear will make the initial acceleration slow, to low and you will be shifting to much to get going fast.
Try experimenting with different gears and see what works best. To big of a gear will make the initial acceleration slow, to low and you will be shifting to much to get going fast.
#10
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I want to get quicker at getting up to speed from a dead stop and at producing a quick burst of speed for a short distance. I have several places along my route where I have to stop to wait for traffic to clear before I can move across a major thoroughfare or where I am riding with traffic along a road with lots of stop lights. In both situations, I need to get moving quickly from a stand still. (In the first case, I need to get across that road before the next clump of traffic gets to me.)
I'm already a lot faster than I used to be, but feel like there must be a way to develop this skill intentionally. If I did interval training on weekends, would that help? Other ideas?
I'm already a lot faster than I used to be, but feel like there must be a way to develop this skill intentionally. If I did interval training on weekends, would that help? Other ideas?
#11
Banned
How is this any faster then just starting a geared bike in a similar gear ratio to your single speed instead of downshifting? With gears at least you have the option. Understand single speed is less maintenance, moving parts, etc. but I don't see how this will make it faster in this case.
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We call this improving your jump. Here is a set that my coach has me do as crit season heats up.
From a standing start (or as close as you can manage), do 10 sets of 15" intervals. Five from the small (or middle ring), say 39x16 or so. Hit it hard and wind it up as fast as you can go. Don't shift. You should feel like you're spinning as fast as possible at the end of the 15".
Now do five from the big ring, say 53x15 or so. Again, hit it hard and don't shift. On these you'll really struggle to turn the pedals over for the first five or so revs. Then focus on getting on top of the gear and turning the mash into spin.
These are inherently high intensity intervals so I wouldn't do these more often than twice a week, at least to start.
From a standing start (or as close as you can manage), do 10 sets of 15" intervals. Five from the small (or middle ring), say 39x16 or so. Hit it hard and wind it up as fast as you can go. Don't shift. You should feel like you're spinning as fast as possible at the end of the 15".
Now do five from the big ring, say 53x15 or so. Again, hit it hard and don't shift. On these you'll really struggle to turn the pedals over for the first five or so revs. Then focus on getting on top of the gear and turning the mash into spin.
These are inherently high intensity intervals so I wouldn't do these more often than twice a week, at least to start.
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I understand that concept and agree. But if I put my geared bike in the same gear ratio as a single speed to start, vs downshifting before the light, why would the single speed be any faster? Each turn of the crank would move the wheel the same amount in this case for both bikes. It seems like if you have a geared bike you still have the option to ride this way vs shifting a lot. I am not implying single speed vs geared is better or worse.
#14
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Don't forget about a strong push off too. Don't just lift the planted leg and start pedaling. Lean into it a bit and push off with the planted foot like a runner would on a starting block.
And +1 on the comment on the single speed comment. Any bike with gears can emulate a single speed. You just need to find the gear you are comfortable starting in. If you go too low you'll find yourself spinning too high of RPMs too soon. If you go too high then the start will seem sluggish.
Another thought - don't sweat it. If you're talking about stop lights, you have the right of way on the green. If you're having to cross at stop signs and have narrow windows, consider turning right, and then taking the lane to turn left somewhere for an eventual U-turn. Better to be safe than rely on a quick start where your foot could slip off the pedal or something.
And +1 on the comment on the single speed comment. Any bike with gears can emulate a single speed. You just need to find the gear you are comfortable starting in. If you go too low you'll find yourself spinning too high of RPMs too soon. If you go too high then the start will seem sluggish.
Another thought - don't sweat it. If you're talking about stop lights, you have the right of way on the green. If you're having to cross at stop signs and have narrow windows, consider turning right, and then taking the lane to turn left somewhere for an eventual U-turn. Better to be safe than rely on a quick start where your foot could slip off the pedal or something.
#15
Banned
I understand that concept and agree. But if I put my geared bike in the same gear ratio as a single speed to start, vs downshifting before the light, why would the single speed be any faster? Each turn of the crank would move the wheel the same amount in this case for both bikes. It seems like if you have a geared bike you still have the option to ride this way vs shifting a lot. I am not implying single speed vs geared is better or worse.
Not having the ability to access the easy option is excellent training as the last few reps count the most.
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#18
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We call this improving your jump. Here is a set that my coach has me do as crit season heats up.
From a standing start (or as close as you can manage), do 10 sets of 15" intervals. Five from the small (or middle ring), say 39x16 or so. Hit it hard and wind it up as fast as you can go. Don't shift. You should feel like you're spinning as fast as possible at the end of the 15".
Now do five from the big ring, say 53x15 or so. Again, hit it hard and don't shift. On these you'll really struggle to turn the pedals over for the first five or so revs. Then focus on getting on top of the gear and turning the mash into spin.
These are inherently high intensity intervals so I wouldn't do these more often than twice a week, at least to start.
From a standing start (or as close as you can manage), do 10 sets of 15" intervals. Five from the small (or middle ring), say 39x16 or so. Hit it hard and wind it up as fast as you can go. Don't shift. You should feel like you're spinning as fast as possible at the end of the 15".
Now do five from the big ring, say 53x15 or so. Again, hit it hard and don't shift. On these you'll really struggle to turn the pedals over for the first five or so revs. Then focus on getting on top of the gear and turning the mash into spin.
These are inherently high intensity intervals so I wouldn't do these more often than twice a week, at least to start.
But, 15 inches??? Seems short.
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Not even this micro insignificant advantage once the OP starts using her new IGH equipped bike.
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If you want to do REALLY fast standing starts, ride the track. Get a track coach to show you how to do a real standing start. There is a definite technique to it. Watch youtube videos of standing starts on the track to see how it's done. You need to use your whole body. The biggest secret is to drive your hips forward, like you're humping the stem of your bike. With this technique, you can start just as fast in a big gear as someone trying to spin up a smaller gear. You can also use this technique on steep climbs, so it's worth knowing.
Most uneducated riders make the mistake of using side-to-side motion, rocking the bike. This is wasteful. You want forward and back. This technique has been useful for doing stuff like climbing Haleakala on my fixie.
This is a good secret. Don't tell anyone! I'm posting it here because nobody listens to me anyway; they already know everything. But you might...
Luis
Most uneducated riders make the mistake of using side-to-side motion, rocking the bike. This is wasteful. You want forward and back. This technique has been useful for doing stuff like climbing Haleakala on my fixie.
This is a good secret. Don't tell anyone! I'm posting it here because nobody listens to me anyway; they already know everything. But you might...
Luis
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Power is a function of Strength * RPM. So either you develop Strength, or you spin faster. Spinning twice as fast will double the power that goes to the wheels.
So for head starts, spin real fast at a low gear and shift up fast to maintain a sustainable spin until you're at the desired speed. (like: shift . shift .. shift... shift ......... shift......................)
If you develop more strength you will also go faster. Continue to spin fast though and learn to shift.
A single speed can help if its setup just right or if you can't shift fast enough (if you don't shift fast enough you're wasting strength pedaling at a cadence that is too high for you).
I fail to see how a IGH helps in any way; its probably slower afaik.
So for head starts, spin real fast at a low gear and shift up fast to maintain a sustainable spin until you're at the desired speed. (like: shift . shift .. shift... shift ......... shift......................)
If you develop more strength you will also go faster. Continue to spin fast though and learn to shift.
A single speed can help if its setup just right or if you can't shift fast enough (if you don't shift fast enough you're wasting strength pedaling at a cadence that is too high for you).
I fail to see how a IGH helps in any way; its probably slower afaik.
#25
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