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Schwinn Crossfit!?
So at the local used bike shop there is a women's sSchwinn cross fit. I really like it and the guy is willing to trade with me my bike and 20 bucks for this bike. It's lighter has 700 wheels and is exactly whatiIneed . The only down side is its more of an upright seating position. Is this bad? The guy said that upright will be comes comfortable for me since Iuse the bike to commute :) . Opinions? Oh and a big plus is it's pURPLE
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Originally Posted by Archery_Queen
(Post 16671283)
So at the local used bike shop there is a women's sSchwinn cross fit. I really like it and the guy is willing to trade with me my bike and 20 bucks for this bike. It's lighter has 700 wheels and is exactly whatiIneed . The only down side is its more of an upright seating position. Is this bad? The guy said that upright will be comes comfortable for me since Iuse the bike to commute :) . Opinions? Oh and a big plus is it's pURPLE
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the guy is really likes me so they let me take you home to test drive for 2 or 3 days. I'm attaching a picture I want opinions on the seat position and is it too much of a up right
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Depends on what you're using the bike for. More upright is usually more agile for commuting and moving in and out of traffic like another poster mentioned. If you want to go fast for a really long distance then no, this bike probably isn't the best... but it sounds like this isn't what you want to use the bike for. And you can probably change the seat and handle bars at some point in the future and that will reduce your upright position a bit.
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A few years ago a neighbor gave one to me. He knows I like to work on bikes and a friend of his wanted to get rid of it. Somebody had taken apart one of the twist shifters in an attempt to change the cable or something and failed. ;)
It's a decent bike but no one in the family really wanted it so after a year I sold it. It's a bike for getting around, - not going fast. To me that's really the downside to an upright position. It also may not be the most comfortable bike to ride a 100 miles on but I'm sure plenty of people have on similar bikes. If you're happy with it after 2 day test period then I'd go for it. Ride it for a year or two and then you'll have a better idea of what you want in your next bike. Or you may decide the Cross fit is just fine. |
Originally Posted by tjspiel
(Post 16671432)
If you're happy with it after 2 day test period then I'd go for it. Ride it for a year or two and then you'll have a better idea of what you want in your next bike. Or you may decide the Cross fit is just fine.
The bike that's right for you now and in a couple years from now may or may not be the same bike. If you like this one grab it. |
2 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Archery_Queen
(Post 16671283)
So at the local used bike shop there is a women's sSchwinn cross fit. I really like it and the guy is willing to trade with me my bike and 20 bucks for this bike. It's lighter has 700 wheels and is exactly whatiIneed . The only down side is its more of an upright seating position. Is this bad? The guy said that upright will be comes comfortable for me since Iuse the bike to commute :) . Opinions? Oh and a big plus is it's pURPLE
Here's how I have my bar-ends set up. It was fine for me riding a century with.http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=374786http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=374787 |
Originally Posted by Isaiahc72
(Post 16671488)
Sounds like a good deal. Ride it a little and see how you like it. If you like it, then take the deal. I ride an upright bike on my commute all the time. The key to flat-bar bikes on longer commutes is to have bar-ends that can allow you to have some extra hand positions.
Here's how I have my bar-ends set up. It was fine for me riding a century with.http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=374786http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=374787 |
Originally Posted by Archery_Queen
(Post 16671599)
Omg where did you buy these from. This would be PERFECT FOR ME
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I'm very familiar with that bike - my dad owns the men's model in a different year. It weighs about 33-34 pounds, and it's no slowpoke - I've timed myself on my commutes with it, and it was surprisingly close to my fastest ever. Plus I felt it was comfortable to boot.
The quality of parts are OK. I wasn't crazy about the rear derailer claw, but I was able to tune it so all the shifting worked perfectly with the thumb shifters on my dad's version. (I guess some versions have twist shifters?) The wheel hubs were a lower quality assembly (retainer rings with fewer ball bearings) but spun great once I overhauled them. The most important thing is that it's not heavy as a tank, and it will have strong braking if set up properly. Overall the assembly and adjustment had major room for improvement, but it's all fixable. Even if you don't touch anything, I doubt it's set up worse than your Huffy. If the bike is in good condition, and you enjoy riding it, then I would not think twice about a $20 trade-in. I suspect he's giving you an unusually good discount because he likes you, and if it were me, I'd jump on the offer. It is a major step up from your current ride, and even if you don't stick with it, it has value as a backup bike or a loaner bike to a friend. If nothing else, it has more resale value than your Huffy. The front wheel (only) is a quick release, so if you haven't worked with those before, I suggest you ask the bike shop guy how to attach and detach the wheel properly - the quick release doesn't work like a wingnut. While you're at it, ask him to show you how to quick-release and reconnect the brakes (center-pull cantilevers) in case you get a flat tire. The quick release front wheel is easily stolen if you live in an area with any crime at all, so lock it and/or add deterrant with a $1 hose clamp from the hardware store. (Clamp the quick release lever to the fork so a potential thief at least needs a screwdriver and some time. If you don't want the hose clamp to scratch the paint, wrap some electrical tape underneath the fork where the clamp will be attaching.) The bike's innertubes uses Presta valves, so make sure you know how to use those and have a way to top off the air in the tires. (If you don't have a Presta-compatible pump, there is a converter for the usual car-style valve and Presta valves that the bike shop can sell you for a buck or two.) |
Originally Posted by Turtle Speed
(Post 16671967)
I'm very familiar with that bike - my dad owns the men's model in a different year. It weighs about 33-34 pounds, and it's no slowpoke - I've timed myself on my commutes with it, and it was surprisingly close to my fastest ever. Plus I felt it was comfortable to boot.
The quality of parts are OK. I wasn't crazy about the rear derailer claw, but I was able to tune it so all the shifting worked perfectly with the thumb shifters on my dad's version. (I guess some versions have twist shifters?) The wheel hubs were a lower quality assembly (retainer rings with fewer ball bearings) but spun great once I overhauled them. The most important thing is that it's not heavy as a tank, and it will have strong braking if set up properly. Overall the assembly and adjustment had major room for improvement, but it's all fixable. Even if you don't touch anything, I doubt it's set up worse than your Huffy. If the bike is in good condition, and you enjoy riding it, then I would not think twice about a $20 trade-in. I suspect he's giving you an unusually good discount because he likes you, and if it were me, I'd jump on the offer. It is a major step up from your current ride, and even if you don't stick with it, it has value as a backup bike or a loaner bike to a friend. If nothing else, it has more resale value than your Huffy. The front wheel (only) is a quick release, so if you haven't worked with those before, I suggest you ask the bike shop guy how to attach and detach the wheel properly - the quick release doesn't work like a wingnut. While you're at it, ask him to show you how to quick-release and reconnect the brakes (center-pull cantilevers) in case you get a flat tire. The quick release front wheel is easily stolen if you live in an area with any crime at all, so lock it and/or add deterrant with a $1 hose clamp from the hardware store. (Clamp the quick release lever to the fork so a potential thief at least needs a screwdriver and some time. If you don't want the hose clamp to scratch the paint, wrap some electrical tape underneath the fork where the clamp will be attaching.) The bike's innertubes uses Presta valves, so make sure you know how to use those and have a way to top off the air in the tires. (If you don't have a Presta-compatible pump, there is a converter for the usual car-style valve and Presta valves that the bike shop can sell you for a buck or two.) wow thank you so much this is very informative. I think the Previous owner took off the quick release. I do not see it on there. I will keep everything you mentioned in mind. Thank you :) |
2 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Archery_Queen
(Post 16671329)
the guy is really likes me so they let me take you home to test drive for 2 or 3 days. I'm attaching a picture I want opinions on the seat position and is it too much of a up right
Edit: def doesn't look right compared to the other photo. Does it ride ok? http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=374878 http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=374879 |
Originally Posted by dynaryder
(Post 16674242)
Maybe it's just the angle,but from that photo the fork looks like it might be slightly bent. Like it's been pushed back toward the frame. Can we see a better pic?
Edit: def doesn't look right compared to the other photo. Does it ride ok? http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=374878 http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=374879 |
Originally Posted by tjspiel
(Post 16674299)
Could be. But it might be just because in the first picture the handle bars are turned towards the right and the camera is not pointed straight at the side of the bike but angled toward the front.
I'm in agreement with the buy it if you like it and it fits suggestions. That will give you time to start with the really important questions like should I wear a helmet while lubing my chain with hot wax while riding against the flow of traffic in the dark while wearing dark clothing. |
From the instagram picture, I'm wondering if the front fork is bent back but it might just be the camera angle or the turn of the wheel. Can you take a picture with the front wheel straight? The upper part of the fork, before it curves, should be in line with the steering tube.
oops - already covered Otherwise it looks like a good bike. |
From her picture it looks like it has a Schrader valve.
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What bike are you trading?
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Originally Posted by dynaryder
(Post 16674242)
Maybe it's just the angle,but from that photo the fork looks like it might be slightly bent. Like it's been pushed back toward the frame. Can we see a better pic?
Edit: def doesn't look right compared to the other photo. Does it ride ok? http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=374878 http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=374879 edit oh I see now here's another picture... http://instagram.com/p/m1Nsu8AKVb/ would this possibly be from someone putting the fork in crocked? |
Originally Posted by Wanderer
(Post 16674466)
What bike are you trading?
roadmaster granite peak |
should roll well, add racks and mudguards and the practicality increases,,
added bonus if the recycle shop included a re greasing and inspection of the bearings . |
The fork is bent. Looks like somebody rode it into a wall.
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Originally Posted by wolfchild
(Post 16674617)
The fork is bent. Looks like somebody rode it into a wall.
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Originally Posted by Archery_Queen
(Post 16674622)
Is it ridable
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Bent fork also changes the position of the front wheel. In this case there may be danger of toe overlap, front wheel hitting your foot while you are turning. You can test ride it and see how it feels, but I still think it's a bad idea to purchase a bike with a bent fork.
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