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Bike locks
What lock(s) is everyone using on their bikes? I lost the Krptonite U Lock my dad gave me so I'm in the market for a new one!
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I've been using the Kryptonite Evolution 4 for the last couple of months. No issues yet, even locked all day outside the university. Then again, if someone with an angle grinder wants your bike badly enough, it's as good as theirs.
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I second awfulwaffle. If someone truly wants a bicycle, they will find a way. I use the Knog Strongman accompanied by an OnGuard Combo Cable Lock. Both my tires, and my seat are bolted on (no QR).
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I use a Kryptonite cable lock as I almost always have my bike is sight. It's there only to slow them down a few seconds, and keep the fairly honest, honest.
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Originally Posted by Northwestrider
(Post 16843653)
I use a Kryptonite cable lock as I almost always have my bike is sight. It's there only to slow them down a few seconds, and keep the fairly honest, honest.
Marc |
A friend of mine who used to steal bikes adviced me to use cable lock instead of chain or U lock. It is much easier and faster to cut chain or solid metal than cable.
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Originally Posted by hermanchauw
(Post 16852614)
A friend of mine who used to steal bikes adviced me to use cable lock instead of chain or U lock. It is much easier and faster to cut chain or solid metal than cable.
Perhaps your friend who used to steal bikes has his eye on yours. |
I use Abus Bordo folding locks when I lock up my commuter: one through rear wheel, frame, and bike rack, and the other through front wheel, frame, and the other lock. I'll also use a "seat leash" cable for my saddle.
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Originally Posted by Matariki
(Post 16856697)
All a thief needs for cable is a small pair of wire snips. No you can't cut through in one cut but you can easily and quickly work through the individual wires. See: How to cut a steel cable lock. - YouTube
Perhaps your friend who used to steal bikes has his eye on yours. |
Most of my lockup scenarios are low to medium risk, so I prize portability over security, And for that reason, I use TiGr Locks.
They're unbeatably light and smartly designed to stow easily and unobtrusively on the frame, so I always have it when I have the bike, rather than being something that's kept in a bag, or that dangles irksomely from the bars or seatpost that you wish wasn't there. I like that the size allows me to capture frame and both wheels. It's a stylish conversation starter, too! TiGr Lock | Elegant Bike Security |
I use a cheap bike no one wants. Lock? Ha!
Actually I use a Kryptonite U to lock the frame to an object, plus a thick cable routed through the wheels and frame locked to the same object. If I have my Brooks on the bike I add a leash. |
I am currently using a Bell Cable lock to secure my bike. Sometimes I bring the bike in the office depending on the weather.
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Kryptonite U lock package that included the thick wheel. Look up on youtube how to properly lock up a bike with u-lock. Through frame and back wheel to a slide object (u-lock) and thick cable through tire/fork and into the u-lock to lock it up.
Nothing will be completely safe, but this will deter lazy criminals. Best security? Park next to a nicer bike lol. Even better if the bike isn't locked as good as yours is... |
Originally Posted by Lanovran
(Post 16856724)
I use Abus Bordo folding locks when I lock up my commuter: one through rear wheel, frame, and bike rack, and the other through front wheel, frame, and the other lock. I'll also use a "seat leash" cable for my saddle.
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Originally Posted by huizar
(Post 16858050)
How does the weight of one those compare to a basic U-Lock, something like the Kryptonite Evolutions? Not talking about the crazy heavy fuhgetaboutits.
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Are you guys kidding? You should try to cut a cable. You will be amazed at how quick and easy it is. I used a cutter designed for cutting brake cables. It went through the cable like scissors go through paper. A cable is the least secure way to lock a bike.
What lock you need depends on where you are and how long you will use it. In nice suburbs and the countryside, a cable is fine, but in a city or on a college campus, you need something serious. |
Originally Posted by hermanchauw
(Post 16857125)
Anything can be cut. But the cable takes more time to cut. A solid metal can be cut in one snip. Cables must be cut bit by bit.
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I use an Abus Mini, I've had a bike stolen years ago using a cable and cheap u-lock.
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I live in a city with a very high rate of bike theft. So...
My main lock is the Kryptonite New York Standard U-Lock. I used to use a Kryptonite New York Fuggedaboutit mini U-lock, but the regular size U-lock is not as heavy and easier to lock up with than the Fuggedabouit (if a little less secure). I also have a much lighter and more portable ABUS Mini 140 U-lock for when I'm only going to lock up for 5 minutes or less (or when I can keep my eyes on the bike while I'm off) and don't want to lug around the heavy Kryptonite lock. I highly recommend the ABUS Mini 140 unless you're going to be locking up for 8+ hours a day in a city like San Francisco. I also use a cable to secure my wheels because I use Quick-Release Skewers. After my beater bike had its crappy saddle stolen, I bought a small chain to tie around the Brooks B-17 saddle and frame of my Surly Long Haul Trucker. I sold off the beater bike couple of months ago and now use my LHT as my main ride, so of course I'm going to use the best locks I can afford. If bike thieves are willing to steal a cheap POS saddle, I'm not going to take any chances with my expensive Brooks. When I used to live in a city with a much lower rate of bike theft, I was comfortable using a decent ABUS Millennio 895 Phantom cable lock. I didn't need to use anything else, and if I was feeling uncomfortable about where I was going to lock up, I'd try to keep the bike within view so that I could see if someone was trying to snip the cable. *Knocks on wood* I have never had a bicycle stolen in almost 30 years. I did have a saddle stolen (as mentioned above), but once I started locking up my saddle on top of locking up the rest of my bike, I've never had anything stolen, period. And I lock my bike up on the street bike rack right outside my workplace for 8 hours a day. |
I agree, the surrounding area you live can be a signal for what type of bike lock you need. Since I live in the suburbs of Japan then I work on a military base, I invested in a mid-level cable lock since bike theft is very rare in my area. Now if I lived in my city back stateside I would definitely invest in a high-end lock.
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I carry around a kryptonite ulock(the standard grey one) and cable. Ulock goes through the rear wheel and triangle, and the cable goes around the front wheel to the ulock. Haven't had an issue with that set up *knock on wood*. I actually had a hipster tell me that I'm locking my bike up wrong and that I only need to lock up the front wheel lol.
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Originally Posted by MauiWowwee
(Post 16860394)
I carry around a kryptonite ulock(the standard grey one) and cable. Ulock goes through the rear wheel and triangle, and the cable goes around the front wheel to the ulock. Haven't had an issue with that set up *knock on wood*. I actually had a hipster tell me that I'm locking my bike up wrong and that I only need to lock up the front wheel lol.
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I use the Abus U-Mini 40. Seems pretty good so far...bike is still here :)
In the past I've used a Kryptonite and a Bull Dog. Both seemed fine...I still I have my bike. As for my wheels, I don't generally use anything. I'm not that excited about them and I've been thinking about replacing them but can't really justify the purchase. So if someone wants to steal them, I have a reason to buy new ones. As for my saddle, when I leaving it someplace, like downtown SF, or in the Mission, I'll use the Abus saddle tether. |
I use a Kryptonite KryptoLock (combination U-lock) around the seatstays. My bike is parked in a pretty secure location (underground parking garage, in full view of the parking attendant who I'm always friendly with) and occasionally briefly locked up at the grocery store, so I don't feel a need for a heavy-duty locking system. I don't lock the front wheel, it is a nice handbuilt Mavic/Mavic wheel with QR, but the fender attachment method also requires the QR to be unscrewed and removed in order to remove the front wheel, so it isn't a 5 second theft job. It also makes repairing flats kind of a pain. I don't use any theft protection on my saddle - it only cost $30 on eBay anyway.
All my life, I have always used U locks - I had the very first Kryptonites, with the flat strap "U" - and have never lost a bike to theft. Back in school days I would remove the front wheel and lock it with the seat tube and rear wheel. My son locked his hybrid bike outside his middle school for three years, occasionally even overnight (yes, I chastised him), with the same Kryptolock around the frame only, and that bike was also never stolen. It isn't a high value bike so the level of theft protection was adequate. He is getting a nicer bike for high school, so I will at least instruct him to lock around the seatstay. My "nice bike" for weekend rides is never locked, because it never leaves my side. When I stop for post-ride coffee or food, I bring the bike into the coffee shop with me; any place that doesn't permit this, I don't patronize. My daughter will bring her upgraded UO-8 to college in the fall. Judging from my visit to campus, it will be one of the nicer bikes in the racks. The dorm has a card-entry bike cage. I'll send her with a U lock and we may use Pitlocks instead of QRs. Alternatively, I might drill a hole through the QR lever and use a small padlock to secure the lever to the fork. |
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