Returning to commuting after years being fat and lazy. Scott Sub 20. Advice req.
 

Hi guys.

I've had a Scott Sub 20 in my garage for 6-7 years now. I bought it when I was commuting to a night job and used it for a year or so before it was consigned to the shed. I absolutely loved riding empty roads in summer at 23:00 and home again on deserted B roads at 5am. Damn.

Anyway. I'm 34 this year and getting a bit of a belly so I've started jogging, working out etc. I'm going to toss in a 2-3 times per week cycle to work as well to keep on top of my cardio.

I was just wondering if someone could help me out. I find the Scott extremely firm (I remember being fine with it once my backside had grown thick enough skin lol) and the ride position doesn't really suit me: I don't like being hunched forward over the front wheel much. I always keep wishing I had a grab bar like the road racers use to sit more upright when cruising and climbing etc.

Could someone who knows these bikes suggest a set of bars or a modification that I could purchase that could give me that upright option? I don't know what they are called those grab bars etc. It is unfortunately impossible to add bar ends to this bike (I think) as the bars are incredibly short.

The other issue I have is that the skinny tyres on there are too skinny. They don't really cope with the cruddy road surfaces we have to tolerate now. I went through several sets of wheel bearings in the 12 months I was riding which got to be rather expensive .. Can I improve things by fitting different (maybe slightly wider or lower pressure) tyres to the rims? Or more robust bearings?

Finally, just an observation really: I paid £250 for my Sub 20 in 2006 ish. They are now £800. As far as I can tell the only major difference is a hydraulic brake on the 2013 model. What am I missing? Why has there been such inflation in cycling? :eek: Thats mental for what is a very basic piece of welded ally and some rubber, no? Was very shocked. I have bought perfectly good cars for less money hehe.

All the best,

Groper.

Edit: Here is a pic I found in google of my model with what look to be substantially wider tyres than the ones that come stock. This looks like the kind of thing I am after? Looks like they are 'Schwalbe Marathon Tyres'. Are they recommended? :)

http://www.keeponpushing.me/wp-conte...7/IMG_0304.jpg

Welcome aboard :)

1. If you don't think that you can get bar ends/extensions on due to the bar being too short, you could always replace the bar. Experiment with the placement of everything until you're satisfied and then you can cut the excess off. Alternatively, you could replace your current grips with some Ergon grips that have an integrated bar end.

2. You might try swapping out the stem to get a bit more upright.

3. You should be able to fit wider tires on their. The size will depend on how much clearance the frame and fork have, as well as the reach of your brakes. The specs show that your bike should have come equipped with 26x1.25" tires- you should be able to fit a 1.5", but you'll need to double check if you want to go bigger.

You can see about raising the bars slightly - that would be the quickest fix for your too low riding position. You probably would need to get some kind of spacers or extenders for the steering tube, or a different stem. And slightly fatter tires if you find the ride too harsh. Speak to the bike store about what is easiest/cheapest.

Several things. In no particular order. I've had a look at the Sub 20. Nice bike. 32mm rubber is NOT small for commuting, nor does the size of the rubber have anything to do with the life of wheel bearings. Maybe the Scott can take bigger rubber and maybe it can't. I have my doubts that the other bike pictured with seriously large rubber is a Sub 20, but if it is... those tires are going to cost $40. Each. And I'm not sure that the o.p. is going to do the work of swapping them himself. I could be wrong though. I hope I am. The riding position is what it is. Changing it will involve money, especially if one does not have the skillz to do the labor. I don't think it is worth it. A $20 stem extender is all the money I'd throw at it, if that didn't work I would HTFU and learn to like the 45* back angle. At 34 there should still be enough gorm in the average bloke to want to rise to a challenge like that. BTW I found a 2014 Sub 20 for 665 British Pounds. In 2006 the Sub 20 was $546 USD. It had 26" wheels then, 700C now. That's huge. I'm just not seeing a terrific amount of inflation there. FWIW.

H

Scott sub have been made in 26" and 700c versions.
A 700c x 32mm tyre is ideal for rough roads. What is your spec on the sidewall text?
Schwalbe Marathon are std quality commuter tyres.
Schwalbe Marathon PLUS have extra protection and ride a lot harsher.
the flat bar can be uncomfortable. I prefer a more swept back style.
You can fit aerobars to a flat bar or use trekking bars.

I owned a Scott Sub 20 for about 2-3 years back in the mid-00s. I think I bought a 2006 model. It was an XL frame with 26 in wheels. It was a fun bike, but I eventually moved to a Surly CrossCheck to alleviate the same issues you are having (I'm now riding a Long Haul Trucker and feel like I've finally found the bike I've been searching for all along).

Yes, bikes cost a lot more now than back then. More than just inflation.

I don't recall the bars on my Sub being rediculiously narrow. Have you tried bar ends?

I'm certain you can fit fatter tires on it. 35 section (700C) is what i prefer now, not sure what the equivalent in 26" is, if that's what you're riding.

It's definitely a Scott Sub, not sure which model (10, 20???). Most likely a 2008 +/-. The model range had the same frame; it's components that make the difference in model.

People love schwalbes. Good ride, and great puncture protection. I use serfa Drifters. I think they run at a lower pressure(65 psi) than the schwalbes. I feel the same about mine. They smooth out the roads for me. And I love trekking bars. But depending on the type of shifters you have they can be a pain to get into the best position. I had to go to thumb shifters to get my bars in the right spot.

Thanks for all the replies guys!

I took some snaps with the phone yesterday of the rims as it happens.

Here's the bike itself.

I can see why I am not getting on with the riding position now derp. I haven't even lifted the bars! :facepalm:

Kenda Qwest and they are 700x32c - 28 - 1 5/8 x 1 1/4. Very narrow and very hard on the arse with such a rigid frame and riding position I find. :D Its not so much the tyres really, more the road surfaces here in central England. They are just abysmal. I will definitely look at the wider options. Those Aerobars look the business! I'll see how much they are. Thanks for the info!

They sure do. I can't see 4x the value in the 2013 model over whatever year mine is. :eek: Maybe the 2013 version has better chainset. Gold plated spokes. Diamond encrusted saddle trim etc. *shrug.

Yeah mine looks like its pretty basic inc. the Acera/Deore stuff. Does have Rapid Fire shifters and a decent enough crank etc. Also does have the 700c rims. Bike was £249 inc. VAT and delivery brand new in 2006-8'ish. I thought it was expensive then lol.

I'll check out the Drifters! Thanks for the tip. There isn't much room on my bars at all. I may end up getting one of those Aero thingies or some of those grips with the bar ends built in. I saw some on Amazon the other night actually. Weren't too bad price wise. Tenner or so.

I'll be sorting the bike this week and get some £15 SPD pedals on there too. Anyone recommend a decent front mudguard?

That's probably as high as the bars go. I believe that is a threadless headset where the top tube of the fork (steerer tube) protrudes up through the frame, and the handlebar stem is clamped to the top above one or two spacers. If the spacers were above the stem, you could switch their positions, but the stem is already on top, and flipped up, instead of down. So you've already got the max height out of your equipment. If you want more height you need to replace the stem or handlebars.

Read post #10 . And while you are at it, read a good book on modern bicycle construction and maintenance. I already told you that your bike is not 800 pounds as you suppose, but actually 665. If you really think that that modest kind of outlay entitles you to gold plated rims you are sadly out of touch. I'm 55 and I appear to have a lot more connection with current technology and trends than you do. What's up with that? If you want a more comfortable bike did you think about a different saddle? What on earth has inspired this Kwest for outsize rubber??? You're going to have to spin those doughnuts up to cruising speed after every single stoplight. I'm done here. I leave you to the Universe. Some people are beyond help.

to raise your bars, get one of these:

SATORI ::Products::

you can see that it has two joints and should be super easy to replace (a bike shop or ebay is an excellent place to buy one)

be sure to get the correct barsize as they come in what people here call regular (25.4mm) and oversized size (31.8mm) ... should be a quite easy/direct swap and give you limitless options for about £30 so you can dial it in ... I noticed that you said "B roads ;)

A stem with a steep angle (eg, +17) should raise your handlebars 1-2 cms, and riser bars would do the same. Raising your bars would also shorten your reach, which looks like you might need given how your saddle is rammed forward.

Your bike should be able to handle wider tires. Check the Scott website to see if they provide max tire size specs, or go by a bike shop and get their advice. My widest tires are 32s, although they actually measure closer to 35 mm wide, and they can handle any roads on my commute. I commute on bikes with 23s, 25s, 28s and 32s, but prefer wider tires in winter when it's harder to see potholes and other obstructions.

Didn't your team win? You should be in a better mood :)

Things are not always as they seem...

I just returned from Deutschland. Public Viewing at it's best ;)

I've been getting back into shape with a 2008 SUB30, and love the bike. I put Panaracer RiBMo 1.25x26 tires on, which were much more affordable that many, ($37 each) and have great reviews. I have about 600 miles on them, no wear yet, fast enough, good traction, quiet, and narry a problem. I notice your seat seems to be way forward. You might have a little more room if you slid it back a bit. I put an old WTB Rocket V saddle on mine, that I love, and have been comfortable ever since. Fit is the most important part of bike happiness, so I hope you get your bike set up to fit, or get another bike that fits you better.

Or .. I could just choose to ignore narcissistic patronizing chaps on internet forums. :thumb:

Got one, thanks! Also picked up one of these for lols (I hear they can be hillarious and I've always wanted to try one out) and also one of these. And some of these. Some of these to fix the front end wobbling and some of these. I also got one of these for a couple of quid so I can use my digital electric car pump to do all the hard work for me every morning!

I got 32 on now and they are not up to the offroad portion of my commute (I would like to do about 50/50 bridelway/green lane) alas. I see the newer models come fitted with 37's so I've ordered up some Contis to see how they go. Got two for £26 on sale. Seemed good value.

The seat was forward because it had come loose hehe. Yeah I need the bars about 3" higher and I need to be able to spread high and wide for climbing out the saddle. I whipped off the stock and there's a couple more inches under there, I just needed to get some more spacers. Hopefully the cheapo bars I bought in conjunction with the spacers and new adjustable stock will see my happy! Thanks again for the advice guys. :D I'll post a pic and my impressions when its all assembled.

You might have gone a bit overboard with all those purchases, but if it gets you riding, why not?

I don't think you can use those extra spacers because your stem is clamped at the top of the steerer tube already. You will get plenty of height from the trekking bars and/or new stem.

You'll need shoes for those SPD pedal. Also practise on grass as you are likely to fall once or twice learning to ride with clipless pedals.

If your wheels are wobbling they may need the cones adjusted, not new bearing balls. A bike shop can help with that.

Personally I don't like the ride of suspension seat posts. Raise your butt a little off the saddle as you go over bumps and use your legs as shock absorbers.

Good luck!

I pulled the steerer tube off and there is a good 3/4 of an inch left in it. The clamp won't be 100% on the tube, about 2/3rds but it will be safe enough tightened up with spacers I am sure. I got the spacers because together they make 26mm which is the current spacers + about another third. Which should do me. If not I'll just use whatever I can, they come in a set so nbd. The trekking bars look ace although I read that they can be a bit flimsy feeling. Will see. Not expecting much for the price hehe.

Got SPD shoes. Fished them out of storage. Nice sexy beige ones I got on sale in the mid-late Jurassic. They still smell of stagnant pond water too. :lol:

I tried adjusting the cones fwiw. I got it nice and tight but the wobble is epic. Its moving like 4mm or more. I suspect I had been riding around on it like this for some time thinking the bearings were bust but it just needed adjusting. Unfortunately now the bearings really are bust. I'm hoping new bearings and a repack with some grease will sort it, if not it might be the cones or the hub. Bummer if its the hub but its a generic Scott ally one anyway so won't be expensive to replace if I have to I guess.

Never tried a suspension seat post. I am 100% certain it will be rubbish but I figured if it isn't unbearably bad it will help a lot. The ride on the Sub is best likened to a pneumatic drill. Its cripplingly harsh on all but pristine asphalt. I'm planning to do some bridleways and dirt track on the wider tyres which I will also run a few psi down to (hopefully) smooth things out a bit. I'm not sure how adjustable it is anyway. I only want it set real firm for the big OMG pothole moments to spare my lower back which has a couple of compressed vertebra from years of riding sports bikes on crappy provincial roads. :mad: If its terribad I can just send it back. :D

Actually, the Satori ones are quite good and used extensively throughout Asia. There have been some real **** ones in the EU/UK/NA market, but the same company that makes that "turn-up" stem (you bought the dual pivot?) makes some nice ones.

What do you like/dislike about them? Yeah I got the dual pivot one and it claims to be preload adjustable .. we shall see!

There are cheap models out there ... satori make some with a oil lubricated shock ... similar to a decent MTN front suspension fork (i.e. with adjustable dampening so that one can lock or dial it in for city/road/trails).

here is one with a handlebar lock-out:

http://www.satoribike.com/lib/dl_fil...-News-view.pdf


here is the line-up:

SATORI ::Products::

but, like I said earlier, these haven't really caught on outside of Asia yet, but they will (they have a little bit in Germany, and as the German market goes, so goes the european market)

That is a very nice looking bike.

I didn't go through all of the stuff that you bought. The first item was a suspension seatpost, I quit before things got any worse.

You could go through some simple adjustments for free and probably make things a lot more comfortable for you. Like tarwheel said, your saddle is slammed forward, this leaves you with no saddle set back (just looking at the picture). That's one two minute adjustment you can quickly make and would probably be able to actually feel the difference. That's free, and where you should start before you start throwing stuff at it. If you get this and that as far away as they should be from each other and set right according to the world your bars might just fit. What you have now needs to be right before you know what needs to be replaced. Of course, there's not a thing wrong with a little component treat once in a while.

Your 32mm tires should be great for your ride. Again start with free adjustments. Are your tires set at recommended pressures from a respected chart, or did you match the max pressure on the sidewall. This ain't Fear and Loathing and pumping up the tires doesn't make it handle like a Lotus.

It looks to be a great bike. It shouldn't take much to get it just right for you.