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Backup commute road bike
Hi all.
This is my first post. I am looking for a backup commute option for a 4 mile journey to and from work. I mainly use a motorcycle. I would like to buy a road bike as I have never had one before, would also be a chance to get some much needed exercise. As it is not a main commute option for now, I am looking for a budget entry option. I have found these options Piccadilly £125 Buy Vertigo Piccadilly 21" Unisex Road Bike from our All Bikes range - Tesco.com Vittesse Sprint £160 Vittesse Sprint 21-Speed Alloy Racing Bike:Amazon.co.uk:Sports & Outdoors Viking jetstream £140 Bikes 2U Direct -- Road bikes : Racing -- Viking Jetstream bike I know all the hardcore road bikers right cringe at these options. However is there any advice for which option might be the best one? Thanks all. |
No cringing here. My first impression is that the bikes all look remarkably similar, i.e., they may all have the same basic components. If it's not your main form of transportation, then you can probably live without fenders for now.
With any bike, but probably more so with an inexpensive bike, it's a good idea to educate yourself on maintenance, especially so you can be sure that the drive train and brakes are set up properly and don't deteriorate over time. I sometimes wonder if cheaper bikes are less reliable mainly because they are cheaply maintained. Is a second hand bike a possibility? |
Just bequeathed my backup bike, a 2004 Breezer Villager, to my daughter. She'll use it far more than I have ever since it's been relegated to backup status.
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Thanks for the replies. Good point about the maintenance Gresp15C. I would like to build up the bike myself do I feel more comfortable with maintainece and repairs.
I have been looking second hand options too. Its just finding one that I feel comfortable in buying. |
With only 4 miles you might be better off getting a hybrid than a road bike, unless it is your intention to start seriously riding
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I bought a cheap road bike once. It was so bottom of the barrel it was seriously no fun to ride. I'd up your budget to around 300 pounds and get a nice hybrid (or at that level a roadie gets to be ok). Or, at that price go second hand. You really won't get much enjoyment from a really cheap bike.
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New to all this, what's not fun about cheap bottom end road bikes? Is it the weight?
Also I have some really nice road cycle routes in my area and wanted to give road bikes a try, especially as I had mountain bikes in the past. Maybe second hand would be a better option? |
If I were to have one bike and only one bike, I would want something more versatile than a road bike. I currently have two bikes, one is a rigid hybrid and the other is a cyclocross bike that I use more as a road bike. Both have cargo racks to carry my bag and the hybrid has mudguards for wet conditions and because I have to deal with sprinklers riding through the park at night.
The bikes you have chosen all come only in one size except that last one, but even then there are only two frame sizes. The hybrid I have comes in 5 different sizes and my cyclocross bike has more than 10. A lot of people are surprised to find that bicycle frames come in different sizes to accommodate differently sized riders. Even two people of the same height might find that they prefer different sizes. The frame size is usually a measure of the seat tube, and as the frame size changes, so do other dimensions of the frame, so in most situations, you can't just get a small frame and put in a longer seat post. Bottom line is if the bike does not fit you, the ride will not be pleasant. Low end bikes use cheap components that are sometimes difficult to work with or wear out quickly. Sometimes bearings don't turn smoothly and are instead notchy. And I don't know that I'd trust a bicycle built at a department store. They are generally put together as quickly as possible and the bike is not tuned to work well so gear shifts may not work well, brakes may not work well, wheels out of round, etc. Shimano makes parts for bicycles that range from $100 to $10000+, so Shimano parts doesn't necessarily make a good bicycle. A quick look at the last bike shows a 42/52 crankset which is a very narrow gearing range. This is does not sound like something I'd want to ride in a hilly area. Compare to my triple 50/39/28 crankset and the compact double crankset with 50/34 which seems to be the norm amongst recreational riders currently. Triples are out of style now, but still a lot of avid supporters of triples. |
New to all this, what's not fun about cheap bottom end road bikes? Is it the weight?
Also I have some really nice road cycle routes in my area and wanted to give road bikes a try, especially as I had mountain bikes in the past. Maybe second hand would be a better option? --- Sorry about the double post, not sure what happened here --- |
A useful road bike should have tyre clearance for 28mm + muduards (fenders), for riding on wet roads.
It should have threaded eyelets for mudguards and a rear luggage rack. The gear ratios should be suitable for the rider's power , consider compact chainset (34/50) instead of race chainset (39/52). Make sure it fits Budget for lock, light, mudguards, helmet, gloves, windproof top, waterproof. Consider stepping up a grade to Pinnacle Dolomite 4 miles is an easy distance to ride in about 20mins. You should have a backup motorbike |
I was looking for a road bike, however more and more people are recommending hybrids at work. I do have to negotiate a busy city road and a bus lane and with winter coming up this might be a better option?
I sometimes see Road bikers look very unstable at slow speeds, is this to do with the style of bike it is or maybe just the inexperience of the rider? I agree the motorcycle should be the backup option. I have just moved house so now have an option for cycling. |
In my view the main thing that's not fun about a cheap bike is if it malfunctions. But there are two other things as well. As others have mentioned, fit is important. If the bike is really uncomfortable to ride, then it will never make it out of the shed. The other thing is the tires. There seems to be a growing consensus that somewhat wider tires are preferable for commuting, so at the very least I'd avoid a road bike that only accommodates really skinny tires.
But plenty of people commute on old road bikes. My view is that there's no way to guess exactly what you will want, and the only way to find out is to start with something, get riding, and think about what your next upgrade or next bike will be. |
Consider your alternative uses for the commuting bike, eg sport, leisure, utility, holidays.
Road bikes are fine if that is what you want. They limit the max tyre size. I prefer to ride min 28mm in winter, others are happy with 25mm. 32mm is my usual winter 700c commuter tyre. The modern Do-it-all bike is really a cyclo-cross/touring machine with disc brakes. They don't come in budget versions, see Boardman CX. |
Originally Posted by Gresp15C
(Post 17272209)
In my view the main thing that's not fun about a cheap bike is if it malfunctions. But there are two other things as well. As others have mentioned, fit is important. If the bike is really uncomfortable to ride, then it will never make it out of the shed. The other thing is the tires. There seems to be a growing consensus that somewhat wider tires are preferable for commuting, so at the very least I'd avoid a road bike that only accommodates really skinny tires.
But plenty of people commute on old road bikes. My view is that there's no way to guess exactly what you will want, and the only way to find out is to start with something, get riding, and think about what your next upgrade or next bike will be. |
The brakes on those 14 speed bikes look absolutely dreadful.
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Originally Posted by PatrickGSR94
(Post 17272999)
The brakes on those 14 speed bikes look absolutely dreadful.
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