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Problem Fitting Fenders

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Old 11-19-14, 07:45 PM
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Problem Fitting Fenders

Is there any possible fix for this while still being able to keep the 2" tires ?
Im wanting to fit the Planet Bike 29r full coverage fenders.
This is on a 2010 Rockhopper. The issue is clearance regarding the front derailluer shifter. I would consider a manual shifter if there is one that mounts on the front of the seat tube.

Took pics but cant post them.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
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Old 11-19-14, 08:11 PM
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Is it the rear fender bumping into the derailleur? Could you just cut away some of the plastic on the fender?
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Old 11-19-14, 08:51 PM
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Got a pic to load. I dont have the fenders yet. But cutting them is an option. But I want to make sure I have checked all others options.
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Last edited by Kawriverrat; 11-19-14 at 09:03 PM.
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Old 11-19-14, 09:20 PM
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The Planet Bike fenders cut nicely with a sharp knife and do not crack later.

My challenge on my two customs is that the isn't enough clearance behind the seat tube for both 25c tires and fenders, so I cut a narrow ~6" oval out of the fender at the seat tube.

Ben
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Old 11-19-14, 10:16 PM
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Does that bike have 29" or 26" wheels?
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Old 11-19-14, 11:46 PM
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It's a 29r.
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Old 11-20-14, 08:37 AM
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You may have enough clearance between the derailleur and fender, but can't tell from the photo. The fender can probably rest lightly against the derailleur without interfering or rattling. If so, add a spacer and longer screw to move the bottom fender attachment point backward. Or get a derailleur that doesn't stick out so much.
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Old 11-20-14, 08:44 AM
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If you end up cutting the fender, Dremel tools work great. Makes nice, clean cut and little chance the fender will crack because of the high speed.
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Old 11-20-14, 09:12 AM
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Front derailleurs are cheap, and you should be able to find one that gives you the room you need.
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Old 11-20-14, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Wanderer
Front derailleurs are cheap, and you should be able to find one that gives you the room you need.
+1 You might want to look at a top swing derailer rather then a bottom swing derailer...which is what you have now...kawriverrat. They tend to be a bit more narrow from front to back. A SRAM X9 would be an excellent choice and it works better than the Shimano. Get the
"High T/P" from Pricepoint.
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Old 11-20-14, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
+1 You might want to look at a top swing derailer rather then a bottom swing derailer...which is what you have now...kawriverrat. They tend to be a bit more narrow from front to back. A SRAM X9 would be an excellent choice and it works better than the Shimano. Get the
"High T/P" from Pricepoint.
Hey THANKS!!
You gave me info I was wanting.
Thanks to every one else who replied with help.....Jeff

Last edited by Kawriverrat; 11-20-14 at 02:47 PM.
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Old 11-20-14, 03:19 PM
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Fella at Price Point says this derailleur wont work with my shimano shifter. Any one with experience comment on this.
also the sizes are 31.8 34.9 im guessing I need the bigger size ?......HELP

Also loaded a better pic.
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Old 11-20-14, 03:37 PM
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Most non internal hub bike fenders should have a notch for clearance there. If they do not, you should cut carefully to get the clearance needed while not going too far as to reduce the goo stopping power down near the bottom mount.

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Old 11-20-14, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Kawriverrat
Fella at Price Point says this derailleur wont work with my shimano shifter. Any one with experience comment on this.
also the sizes are 31.8 34.9 im guessing I need the bigger size ?......HELP

Also loaded a better pic.
I've got an X7 front derailer on a bike with an LX shifter front shifter that works just fine. You can't mix SRAM and Shimano on the rear.

If you don't feel comfortable with mixing the two, this is a good Shimano front that is narrower from the front to the back at the clamp.

As for the diameter, you'll have to measure it. A pair of calipers would be best.

A note on Shimano front derailers: The more expensive the model, the harder they are to get dialed in correctly. Shimano's expensive models have a lot of sculpting that narrows the useful range. I find the cheap ones actually work better. That doesn't hold for the SRAM, however.
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Old 11-20-14, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Kawriverrat
I dont have the fenders yet.
First,it looks like the fender is already notched,just like the ATB model:


So you should get the fenders first before doing anything. If they don't have enough clearance,then just enlarge the notch. Why in the world would you consider swapping the derailleur just to mount fenders? Unless your derailleur has it's own issues,this is just way complicating the matter.
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Old 11-20-14, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by dynaryder
First,it looks like the fender is already notched,just like the ATB model:


So you should get the fenders first before doing anything. Unless your derailleur has it's own issues,this is just way complicating the matter.
1 Because the clearance is so tight to start with there have been issues when in the mud.

2 If at all poosible I would I would like the derailleur at least whats in front of the tire protected by the fender so it doesnt ice up.
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Old 11-21-14, 04:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Kawriverrat
1 Because the clearance is so tight to start with there have been issues when in the mud.

2 If at all poosible I would I would like the derailleur at least whats in front of the tire protected by the fender so it doesnt ice up.
But, most of the goo is going to be thrown on the rear half of the fender, and the stuff that does make it that far is going to go on the seat tube and bottom bracket. I know this from personal experience. If you are seriously worried about it icing up, you put on some plant based (soybean, flax, sesame, olive, linseed, corn) oil on all the moving parts up front and the ice won't stick. The chain guide (inside and out), the springs, levers etc, just put some oil on there and you shouldn't have a problem, plus the plant based oils are not going to poison you or the environment like petro based oil.

Linseed and especially corn oil can get gunky, so if you do use those, make sure its only on the chain guide which can easily be cleaned. I put corn oil on the inside of my old (singe up front) cruiser's chain guard and it worked like a charm. It too had a notch in the fender and was nary an issue to begin with.

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Old 11-21-14, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Kawriverrat
1 Because the clearance is so tight to start with there have been issues when in the mud.

2 If at all poosible I would I would like the derailleur at least whats in front of the tire protected by the fender so it doesnt ice up.

Unfortunately, you have a bike that is going to have problems with mud and muck at the bottom bracket. It the cost of stuffing a large 29er wheel into a crowded space. 26ers have less of a problem because their frames are longer in that area in relation to the wheels. Most mountain bike riders don't use fenders for any conditions because of possible mud build up. I use them in the winter but the protection is less than you'd see on a "normal" fender.

If you want to keep stuff out of the derailer, you can buy a guard from Lizard Skins
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Old 11-21-14, 04:45 PM
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OK, Im set.
I wont go with a full coverage fender in the rear. With zip ties or hose clamps I can fashion a derailleur cover like the one in the link out of a tire tube if I decide to.
An oil coating works but brings another issue.

In reality beyond the clearance issue, dirt mud & ice on the front derailleur has never completely stopped me from getting home.
So easy to get my mind set & lose focus.
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