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Great thread everyone, thanks for the contribution.
I have seen puncture protected inner tubes.... Really? |
Originally Posted by okiride
(Post 17359644)
Great thread everyone, thanks for the contribution.
I have seen puncture ptotected inner tubes.... Really? They seem like more of a weight penalty than Mr. Tuffy, so I'm not into them. Then there are Slime tubes. Work OK on low pressure tires. They do require a bit of work to keep the slime out of your pump and from clogging up in the valve. I used to run those in the desert, good against goatheads. |
Originally Posted by okiride
(Post 17348018)
Thanks everyone for the fantastic and helpful responses!
I suppose I should my priorities in this order of importance for my commuting bike as a whole, where number 1 is the most important: 1) Safety 2) Reliability 3) Comfort 3) Speed 4) Style and aesthetics 2. The same. 3. Fatter is better. 1.5" is comfortable though, I wouldn't do 1.25" that's to skinny in my opinion. 3...b?. Skinnier is better. 1.5" -> 2.0" is probably going to increase tire weight and rolling resistance enough that you'll notice. 5. Same. Might vary depending on your particular bike.
Originally Posted by okiride
(Post 17348018)
I am contemplating actually changing the bike before spending time and money on new tyres. I am commuting on it daily now and seeing the flaws of the bike. Such as:
- Bike seat keeps rotating back if I hit a bump hard. Even though I am tightening it up good. Not sure how tight I can go without damaging the fixing? - Gears are not changing smoothly, especially when I need a quick shift to pick up speed, etc. It sometimes does not go onto the low gear on the crank without playing around with the gears to get it to shift. - Top gear on the flywheel slips I am not sure by the time I spend the time and money changing the drive system, tyres and maybe a new seat. That I couldn't sell the bike, put a bit more on top and buy a more reliable and higher quality road/hybrid bike? I am so eager to buy a road bike (like a little kid that wants a Ferrari!) however I am not sure a road bike would be the best solution to match my priorities listed above :( You can buy a cyclocross or touring bike that's a road bike, but with enough clearance to take fatter tires, if that is a priority. I will say though that even just 25c's with good tires (Continental gp4000's) have been good enough for me. Regarding your other question, yes, flat resistant tires are always worth it. I can see no reason outside of racing on a closed track to ever use a non-flat-resistant tire. You don't have to spend a ton of money - Panaracer TServ tires were $35/tire and worked very well for me. |
Originally Posted by Chris Chicago
(Post 17359353)
if anyone knows of a light 26in street tire wider than 1.5 (other than pasela), I'd love to hear what it is.
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I ordered a Cheng Shin C783 to try a street tire on the rear wheel of my MTB, with studs in front. I only had that tire on there for a couple weeks, before switching to 2 studded tires, but I was quite pleasantly surprised by the ride. FWIW it's 26 x 1.5, rated at 65 psi, has moderate tread, and is 13 bucks at Niagara. My riding is all paved streets or MUP, not super fast, pretty tame terrain.
You might be looking for something higher-end, but I think this C783 deserves to be mentioned for folks who are trying to put an old MTB into commuting service without breaking the bank. The Cheng Shin 27x1-1/4 road tires on my regular commuter have held up quite nicely and seem to ride just fine. |
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