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2015 Lynskey Urbanskey Commuter Build

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2015 Lynskey Urbanskey Commuter Build

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Old 03-22-15, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by spare_wheel
How about:

https://www.xpedo.com/products/pedals...3/m-force-8-ti


xts and xtrs are hard to remove when tightened to shimano spec (40 newtons) but I just ignore that and tighten them to 10 or so.
even m540s with titanium spindles would be an aesthetic improvement over m520s, imo.
Those are nice pedals, but at 8x the cost and a weight limit of 180 pounds, they're not for me.
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Old 03-22-15, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by alan s
Those are nice pedals, but at 8x the cost and a weight limit of 180 pounds, they're not for me.
The do have chromoly spindles too.

I'm more likely to get top of the line components for things like pedals, stems, and posts than elsewhere since they tend to have about the same durability as their lower end equivalents.
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Old 03-23-15, 09:01 AM
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Had the Urbanskey out on the dirt for the first time this morning. Even with 700x28 tires, it felt great. The carbon fork and Ti frame were really in their element. For longer offroad rides, I'd go with a wider tire for even greater comfort and durability, but for a few miles on hard pack, the 28s are fine.

Here is the bike at Mile 5 on the C&O towpath.





Last edited by alan s; 03-23-15 at 09:05 AM.
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Old 03-24-15, 09:46 AM
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The bike is everything I expected, and rides even better than anticipated. I do want to point out a few nits or quirks about the bike, in the event anyone is contemplating buying one. In no particular order:

1. I don't particularly like the name "Urbanskey," which is part of the reason I opted for leaving it off the frame. However, this is a totally trivial issue. If it were me, I’d offer several cable routing options for the same frame and use the Cooper name only. For example, the Cooper CX would be the current top of top tube routing. Then you could have the Cooper TT, which would route the cables underneath the top tube, the Cooper DT, which would route the cables underneath the down tube as on the Urbanskey, etc. Same frame, but with different cable routing options.

2. The rear fender mount hole is on the bottom of the bridge, rather than on the back where you would expect it to be. I had to install an L bracket to attach the fender, so no big deal, but perhaps someone can explain the thinking here. Are you supposed to drill through the fender and screw directly to the bridge?

3. There is a bit of toe overlap with fenders, which again is no biggie, but for a "perfect" commuter bike, I would tweak the geometry to eliminate this, if possible. I'm certainly not a frame designer, so it may result is handling compromises. I have another bike with toe overlap, and it has never been an issue, but it’s something worth noting.

4. The 3-D graphics are a bit quirky, and require many additional holes in the frame. I happen to like the Lynskey graphic on the down tube, but really prefer a clean top tube. The graphic is unique and compliments the industrial look of the frame. You can opt for no graphics and recently they started offering the regular decals. Best thing about the 3-D is it will never wear off, because it's metal.

5. Factory direct purchase offers some benefits as far as future service and warranties (not lower cost, though), but unless you happen to like the components they chose, it's not the best option. I happen to prefer Shimano and don't particularly like SRAM, and really like the Shimano road hydro discs, so I had to go through a dealer to get that.

6. The Ti rack Lynskey builds is nice (and expensive), but for a commuter, I want a rack that will accept a Topeak bag. Unless there is a patent on the design, Lynskey should make a variety of racks in Ti, including the slide on Topeak design. Also, the built-in rack mounting holes in the seat stays are a bit higher and more forward than most bikes that have the holes in the dropouts. Keep in mind almost all racks are designed for the typical dropout mounting position. I don’t have any heel strike or notice any adverse handling with the standard rack, but this could be an issue for some. Lynskey should design a rack that moves the rack a bit lower and aft to compensate for this.

7. The add on costs for frame brushing are a bit steep. I don't think it takes that much time and effort on their part, and the resulting brushed frame is beautiful, but it's their business model.

8. I would have preferred full cable housing for the shifter cables. This should be an option. Recently found out there is sealed road cable kit from Gore and Jagwire with a clear thin housing over the exposed cable, which solves this issue. When it comes time to replace the shifter cables, I’ll go that route.

9. Standover height is exactly as stated in the geometry chart. You don’t get extra standover height as you would on a bike with a more sloping top tube. Mine fits perfectly, but this could be an issue for some, particularly if the housing is on top of the top tube, as with the Cooper CX.

That’s it. Minor issues, all in all. Overall, I give the bike a rating of 10 out of 10, with a few caveats.
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Old 03-24-15, 11:00 AM
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Sounds more like a rating of 9.95.
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Old 03-24-15, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by noglider
Sounds more like a rating of 9.95.
Yeah, you're right.

0.5% deduction for the seatstay bridge fender mount.
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Old 03-24-15, 09:49 PM
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were the tubus Ti racks too expensive?
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Old 03-24-15, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by spare_wheel
were the tubus Ti racks too expensive?
No. The Tubus Ti racks are really nice, but as with the Lynskey racks, they are designed more for panniers. I use the Topeak rack and trunk bag on 2 commuter bikes now. Whichever bike I'm riding, I take the same trunk bag. Guess that makes me a captive customer.
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Old 03-25-15, 08:44 PM
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Rain in the morning, so I drove and rode after work to National Harbor in Maryland south of DC. The Awakening statue was moved from Hains Point in DC to the "beach." Pretty cool statue. The bike route across the Wilson Bridge is great to ride. This the Beltway/I-95, so it is pretty amazing that a bike path was designed into the new bridge.





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Old 04-05-15, 04:57 PM
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The industrial mill finish is a bit rough, so I used a Scotch-brite 7446 pad to go over the frame. The graphics on the downtube and headtube badge are attached with tiny screws, and come off easily.

The factory machine-brushing leaves lots of uneven scratches.







All back together again. Hard to tell from a distance, but the finish is now much smoother and more even. My reference point is the seatpost, which started with a hand brushed finish, and the frame is getting pretty close to that.



After 30 minutes of work, most of the frame is evened out. Still needs more brushing, but it looks much better (at least up close).

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Old 04-05-15, 06:27 PM
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That is a nice weekend road bike, let alone commuter! Awesome rig.
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Old 04-05-15, 10:54 PM
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That bike is gorgeous, but the cheapo rack doesn't do it justice. Time to upgrade your luggage carrier to match the titanium.

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Old 04-06-15, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by skimaxpower
That bike is gorgeous, but the cheapo rack doesn't do it justice. Time to upgrade your luggage carrier to match the titanium.
I agree the rack doesn't do the bike justice, but it is decent quality, and more importantly, it works with the Topeak trunk bag I use for commuting. I have the same rack on another bike, so unless someone makes a Ti rack that works with the bag, the cheapo rack will have to do. I will add that I've had the Topeak rack offroad many times, fully loaded with panniers, and it has held up just fine.
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Old 04-06-15, 09:00 AM
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^ You're looking at the problem from the wrong angle. You can have a rack AND a trunk bag that do justice to your regal steed!

https://www.ortlieb.com/_pdf_en/trunkbag.pdf
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Old 04-06-15, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by skimaxpower
^ You're looking at the problem from the wrong angle. You can have a rack AND a trunk bag that do justice to your regal steed!

https://www.ortlieb.com/_pdf_en/trunkbag.pdf
The Ortleib stuff is nice, and I have their front and rear panniers for touring. However, for commuting, I like the Topeak trunk with drop down panniers. Already invested in the Topeak system, so until someone comes up with a superior system, that's what I'll be using.
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Old 04-13-15, 09:15 AM
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From the ride in this morning, the Tidal Basin is ringed with cherry blossoms.


Couple more from Friday's ride after work.




Rode out the C&O Towpath on the weekend. After a half hour each way, I was definitely needing wider tires.


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Old 04-13-15, 01:52 PM
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Beautiful bike. I know several of those locations as I live in Germantown, MD.
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Old 04-13-15, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary in VA
Beautiful bike. I know several of those locations as I live in Germantown, MD.
Great riding out your way. Poolesville area, Sugarloaf, to name a couple. Guess by your BF name you moved to MD from VA?
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Old 04-17-15, 04:41 AM
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Beautiful light, nice riding practical bike! I'm ordering one this afternoon! Enjoy!

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Old 04-17-15, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by alan s
Done.
Before you claim "Done", it could use some hard wired front/rear lights wired to a power generation system, such as a front dynamo, or magnetic induction ReelLights (which I use).

And maybe spring for a belt drive (which is too late now, since the frame you chose doesn't have a break in it), and/or internal geared hub, to be more salt/sand/slush resistant, which would go nicely with your Ti frame and disc brakes.

And I bet the seat bag has to be removed all the time to make room for your rear trunk, which is a PITA. I know, because I have the same trunk and rack system. Maybe invest in a small tool/tube bag you can mount permanently somewhere else up front, or under the rear rack, like I've considered.

Last edited by Riveting; 04-17-15 at 07:56 AM.
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Old 04-17-15, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Riveting
Before you claim "Done", it could use some hard wired front/rear lights wired to a power generation system, such as a front dynamo, or magnetic induction ReelLights (which I use).

And maybe spring for a belt drive (which is too late now, since the frame you chose doesn't have a break in it), and/or internal geared hub, to be more salt/sand/slush resistant, which would go nicely with your Ti frame and disc brakes.

And I bet the seat bag has to be removed all the time to make room for your rear trunk, which is a PITA. I know, because I have the same trunk and rack system. Maybe invest in a small tool/tube bag you can mount permanently somewhere else up front, or under the rear rack, like I've considered.
I use two Niterider 750 lights that can be mounted on my helmet and bars, and completely removed when not needed. Also have a helmet mounted taillight and a bracket on the rack for another. Not a fan of permanent lights, IGH, or belt drive.

As for the saddle bag, it clips on, so is easily removed. When the trunk bag is in use, it goes in the little pocket on the rear of the trunk bag. I had a saddle bag stolen off my bike while picking something up at a store last year. The bike was locked to the car rack, but someone removed the bag. Cost around $60 to replace everything. So I don't ever leave it on the bike unattended.

Last edited by alan s; 04-17-15 at 08:26 AM.
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Old 04-17-15, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Double0757
Beautiful light, nice riding practical bike! I'm ordering one this afternoon! Enjoy!

Double O
You won't regret it.
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Old 04-17-15, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by alan s
I had a saddle bag stolen off my bike while picking something up at a store last year. The bike was locked to the car rack, but someone removed the bag. Cost around $60 to replace everything. So I don't ever leave it on the bike unattended.
Bummer about the petty theft. I haven't been stolen from yet, and I don't leave my bikes unattended much, but I should plan for it in some way. Have you ever heard of a locking system for the Topeak bag/rack system we have, or a more lockable trunk bag (with paniers) in general?

I hope a petty thief doesn't steal your quick release skewers, and more importantly, I hope that you notice.

Last edited by Riveting; 04-17-15 at 08:45 AM.
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Old 04-17-15, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Riveting
Bummer about the petty theft. I haven't been stolen from yet, and I don't leave my bikes unattended much, but I should plan for it in some way. Have you ever heard of a locking system for the Topeak bag/rack system we have, or a more lockable trunk bag (with paniers) in general?

I hope a petty thief doesn't steal your quick release skewers, and more importantly, I hope that you notice.
Haven't heard of any locking system for Topeak bags, but I think Racktime and Ortleib have something. Wouldn't put much faith in bag locking, though. You may want to ask the question in the touring subforum.
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Old 05-08-15, 08:16 AM
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Managed to fit 700 x 40 Marathon Supremes with 45mm Planet Bike Cascadia fenders. Kind of took a gamble that it would all fit, and much to my relief, it is perfect.

The tire is actually 38 mm at 50 psi, and will probably get a little wider at higher pressure, but there is enough room to spare an additional mm on each side. The Stan's Grail rims are limited in tire pressure to around 45 psi with a wider tire, which is fine for gravel grinding, but not so much for mixed road/offroad use. Have a set of beefier touring wheels on order with Velocity Aileron rims that can take higher pressure.

Currently outfitting the bike for a week long tour in June, and will be using the Revelate Designs harness with a dry bag and frame bag for extra carrying capacity, along with the Ortleib panniers on the rear. The bike rides really nicely with the load spread out, and the frame does not flex at all.







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