I need help... And yes, I searched the forums!
08-01-18, 12:24 PM
#1
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I need help... And yes, I searched the forums!
Hello! So I am completely new to this world. Long story short- I am in the middle of a weight loss journey, currently down 80 lbs. I have never really biked, but i have always been interested in it. I am 6'1'', 300lbs as of today. Any suggestions? I want to stay in the $500-$750 range, which if this is not realistic i will try and figure something out.
I appreciate all the words of wisdom you guys have on this topic.
appreciate it!
I appreciate all the words of wisdom you guys have on this topic.
appreciate it!
08-01-18, 12:30 PM
#2
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What are you planning to do? Do you want to ride gravel? Are you just looking for a good bike? It's hard to suggest anything without those details.
I'll try anyway.
Considering your weight, I'd suggest whatever bike you are most comfortable on that youll ride the most. There is no sense in getting a high end or lightweight one, get one that makes you want to ride more. Worry about upgrading once your clothes stop fitting.
I'll try anyway.
Considering your weight, I'd suggest whatever bike you are most comfortable on that youll ride the most. There is no sense in getting a high end or lightweight one, get one that makes you want to ride more. Worry about upgrading once your clothes stop fitting.
08-01-18, 12:30 PM
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Figure out if you want a flat bar or drop bar setup. That is 1st and foremost.
after that, suggestions can be given. It isnt much help to suggest bikes you don't want due to bar style.
you can get something in either setup at that pricepoint.
after that, suggestions can be given. It isnt much help to suggest bikes you don't want due to bar style.
you can get something in either setup at that pricepoint.
08-01-18, 12:33 PM
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Sorry- Im looking for something that is road worthy but can also handle gravel. As far as a bar style, i know i like flat bar, but am not opposed to drop bar. Eventually i would like to begin doing smaller competitions once i get more of this weight off.
Some of my issue is that im not even sure what type of frames i should be looking at. I have researched a bit online, but i have read a lot of contradicting information too.
hope this helps!
Some of my issue is that im not even sure what type of frames i should be looking at. I have researched a bit online, but i have read a lot of contradicting information too.
hope this helps!
08-01-18, 12:58 PM
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I would get something that used but in working order, that fits you or you think fits you, and most important cheap. Heck, even borrow one from someone else. Doesn't matter whether it's road, hybrid, whatever, riding it around in different conditions you will notice various things you like, and things you don't like. Play around with seat height handlebar positions and stuff.
Putz around on that for a couple weeks, and THEN go out and find your dream bike.
The reason I suggest this way is because your odds of getting the 100% perfect ideal bike for your needs, on the very first attempt, are astronomical. You probably don't really even know what you want at this point, but riding the clunker around for a while will help get you focused on what's important and what isn't.
Putz around on that for a couple weeks, and THEN go out and find your dream bike.
The reason I suggest this way is because your odds of getting the 100% perfect ideal bike for your needs, on the very first attempt, are astronomical. You probably don't really even know what you want at this point, but riding the clunker around for a while will help get you focused on what's important and what isn't.
Last edited by Colnago Mixte; 08-01-18 at 01:01 PM.
08-01-18, 01:06 PM
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I'd go with a steel framed cx bike and a 32+ hole set of solid wheels.
Edit: I have a Civilian Vive Le Roi in your size that is new and partially built. You could probably finish it off and stay within your budget. PM if you're interested.
Edit: I have a Civilian Vive Le Roi in your size that is new and partially built. You could probably finish it off and stay within your budget. PM if you're interested.
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Last edited by shoota; 08-01-18 at 01:10 PM.
08-01-18, 01:17 PM
#8
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Hello! So I am completely new to this world. Long story short- I am in the middle of a weight loss journey, currently down 80 lbs. I have never really biked, but i have always been interested in it. I am 6'1'', 300lbs as of today. Any suggestions? I want to stay in the $500-$750 range, which if this is not realistic i will try and figure something out.
The right answer now is any non-suspension mountain bike off of Craigslist from a well know company like Giant, Specialized, etc under $200. So long as it shifts well and has at least 32 spoke wheels you will be fine. Moving to more road like tires will make it easier to go farther. (I ride my gravel bike BECAUSE it is less efficient than the road bike. I get more exercise in a shorter time on the gravel bike. The road bike is now 50+ mile days)
Getting started on riding is what is important. Set a goal of 20 miles a ride, 7 to 10 hrs a week of medium exercise (moderate or tempo heartrate) and when you get there it is time to re-evaluate.
Spend a little money on a good Bluetooth heart rate monitor, like Wahoo Tickr+, and you can track your health progress and make sure you are not over doing it.
Start saving money for the NEXT bike, by the time you hit the goals above, or feel you have outgrown the $200 bike, it should be more clear what you like/don't like and what the next bike should be. You hopefully will have enough of a budget to get into a more capable bike that matches what your needs are at that time.
I started my journey 20 years ago on a sub $200 mountain bike, then a $800 road bike, a $2500 replacement road bike, and now a $2600 gravel bike.
08-01-18, 01:21 PM
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I always give this advice, but no one ever takes it. Much more exciting to go out and buy an expensive NEW BIKE! If I were starting out in the sport all over again, I would probably ignore my own advice too, and go out and bust my wallet open on the flashiest bike I could find. 
08-01-18, 01:23 PM
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You might want to check out the Clyde/Athena group that focuses on issues that we larger riders face.
The right answer now is any non-suspension mountain bike off of Craigslist from a well know company like Giant, Specialized, etc under $200. So long as it shifts well and has at least 32 spoke wheels you will be fine. Moving to more road like tires will make it easier to go farther. (I ride my gravel bike BECAUSE it is less efficient than the road bike. I get more exercise in a shorter time on the gravel bike. The road bike is now 50+ mile days)
Getting started on riding is what is important. Set a goal of 20 miles a ride, 7 to 10 hrs a week of medium exercise (moderate or tempo heartrate) and when you get there it is time to re-evaluate.
Spend a little money on a good Bluetooth heart rate monitor, like Wahoo Tickr+, and you can track your health progress and make sure you are not over doing it.
Start saving money for the NEXT bike, by the time you hit the goals above, or feel you have outgrown the $200 bike, it should be more clear what you like/don't like and what the next bike should be. You hopefully will have enough of a budget to get into a more capable bike that matches what your needs are at that time.
I started my journey 20 years ago on a sub $200 mountain bike, then a $800 road bike, a $2500 replacement road bike, and now a $2600 gravel bike.
The right answer now is any non-suspension mountain bike off of Craigslist from a well know company like Giant, Specialized, etc under $200. So long as it shifts well and has at least 32 spoke wheels you will be fine. Moving to more road like tires will make it easier to go farther. (I ride my gravel bike BECAUSE it is less efficient than the road bike. I get more exercise in a shorter time on the gravel bike. The road bike is now 50+ mile days)
Getting started on riding is what is important. Set a goal of 20 miles a ride, 7 to 10 hrs a week of medium exercise (moderate or tempo heartrate) and when you get there it is time to re-evaluate.
Spend a little money on a good Bluetooth heart rate monitor, like Wahoo Tickr+, and you can track your health progress and make sure you are not over doing it.
Start saving money for the NEXT bike, by the time you hit the goals above, or feel you have outgrown the $200 bike, it should be more clear what you like/don't like and what the next bike should be. You hopefully will have enough of a budget to get into a more capable bike that matches what your needs are at that time.
I started my journey 20 years ago on a sub $200 mountain bike, then a $800 road bike, a $2500 replacement road bike, and now a $2600 gravel bike.
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08-01-18, 01:35 PM
#11
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I'm going to have to respectfully disagree on that approach. In my experience people that don't buy the right bike the first time: 1) wish they had and then 2) wind up spending more to buy the right bike the second time. I've seen it several times just this year alone. I'd suggest finding a strong, used gravel bike under $750. That will likely be more fun to ride than a mtb and will last all through the weight-loss journey and beyond.
That does not mean they are not out there, but anything under 32 spoke is no go, and 32 is pushing it.
08-01-18, 01:36 PM
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I don't totally disagree... but most sub $1000 gravel bikes, used or new, I looked at had wheels that were not sturdy enough for 250# plus riders. I did not even really trust the wheels Specialized put on the $2500 Diverge.
That does not mean they are not out there, but anything under 32 spoke is no go, and 32 is pushing it.
That does not mean they are not out there, but anything under 32 spoke is no go, and 32 is pushing it.
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08-01-18, 01:46 PM
#13
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I would trust that on well maintained gravel/road riding at 300, and light off-road at 250.
the 650B model with 2.1 inch tires would be even tougher and still pretty cushy ride:
https://salsacycles.com/bikes/journe...man_claris_650
I would recommend the drop bar, it gives you more riding positions and is no lower than the flat bar.
08-01-18, 02:22 PM
#15
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The way it sounds, this would be the OP's first bike. I'd echo the idea of starting with a cheaper used bike. This will allow them to figure out what type of bike they want and whether they even enjoy it.
This is how I started so I may be a bit biased.
This is how I started so I may be a bit biased.
08-01-18, 02:26 PM
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I appreciate all of the great feedback! My concern is that i haven't been on a bike since probably middle school (im 31 now), so i was a bit intimidated by even considering a road bike. I'll have to give craigslist or check out our local shop to see if they have anything good used.
08-01-18, 02:29 PM
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Some of the old road bikes can take big tires, and are essentially gravel bikes. My 1976 Raleigh Competition has clearance for 38's. Those old road bikes were designed to take fenders for the muddy roads in Europe, so you get a road bike that you can take onto gravel. Old Peugeots from the 70's and early 80's tend to have good tire clearance too. This is the kind of bike you can find on the used market, if you're patient, for ~$200.
08-01-18, 10:18 PM
#19
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https://www.diamondback.com/road-bik...ravel/haanjo-3 $835 with free signup discount
https://www.diamondback.com/road-bik...ravel/haanjo-2 $595 with free signup discount
https://www.raleighusa.com/willard-150888 $605 with discount.
https://www.raleighusa.com/willard-150882 $u95 with discount.
there are tons of bikes for you to consider. I linked 4 from sister companies Raleigh and Diamondback. Both have a corporate discount code thats free for anyone to use.
the Raleigh Willard bikes are really well spec'd for the $. All 4 have 28h wheels. That may be a weak point based on weight or may work just fine- stock wheels at higher weight limit is often hit/miss. Just take them to a shop and have them properly tensioner for $20ish per wheel to ensure they last longer with less maintenance.
https://www.diamondback.com/road-bik...ravel/haanjo-2 $595 with free signup discount
https://www.raleighusa.com/willard-150888 $605 with discount.
https://www.raleighusa.com/willard-150882 $u95 with discount.
there are tons of bikes for you to consider. I linked 4 from sister companies Raleigh and Diamondback. Both have a corporate discount code thats free for anyone to use.
the Raleigh Willard bikes are really well spec'd for the $. All 4 have 28h wheels. That may be a weak point based on weight or may work just fine- stock wheels at higher weight limit is often hit/miss. Just take them to a shop and have them properly tensioner for $20ish per wheel to ensure they last longer with less maintenance.
08-08-18, 02:19 PM
#20
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Congrats on loosing that first 80 lbs! ;-)
REI’s bike store specializes in “less expensive” bikes. I am in the process of rebuilding a “Cyclocross” bike for the conditions I ride in.
I am currently living in North Metro Atlanta. I have no desire to ride on the congested roads in my area. The community I am moving to in North GA has a network of narrow, paved/gravel covered roads, with steep hills, sharp corners....steep drops off each side.....I converted my MTB to 1X last year and love the simplicity. I am in the process of converting my Cyclocross bike to 1X now. 1X is great for someone relearning, as everything is simpler.
First I suggest you figure out what roads/paths/trails you can get to easily and will ride on regularly, then buy a bike that will work in that “environment”. You may have to adapt your gears once you develop a method of handling the environment you choose.
If you are looking for a bike that is versatile and can be ridden in many environments you might consider a gravel/cyclocross/adventure frame, geared to your environment. There are many excellent bike videos on YouTube that may help you choose. I understand that Cyclocross bikes are great for people loosing weight as they can handle heavier weights compared to other frames.
You might consider a “Cyclocross/gravel/adventure frame with flat or riser handlebars. It may be difficult to ride in a more “aero”, less wind resistant position until you loose more weight. Drop handlebars are made to aide in adopting a more aero position. Wider thicker tires will help too. I would think 33c-45c width tires. I am approaching 69 and can get a little stiff when I try to get aerodynamic with drop handlebars, which is why I am switching my Cyclocross bike to a riser bar. Drop bars distribute more weight forward on the bike which can make one feel vulnerable to being tossed over the handlebars. If you are not interested in racing aerodynamics may mean less.
The long throw, required to operate the levers on drop bars, seems slower and less positive/responsive when compared to more modern 1X trigger or grip shifting systems. While one is getting acquainted with shifting, especially when going up hills, this can require one to anticipate which may not be a good thing for newbies.
REI’s bike store specializes in “less expensive” bikes. I am in the process of rebuilding a “Cyclocross” bike for the conditions I ride in.
I am currently living in North Metro Atlanta. I have no desire to ride on the congested roads in my area. The community I am moving to in North GA has a network of narrow, paved/gravel covered roads, with steep hills, sharp corners....steep drops off each side.....I converted my MTB to 1X last year and love the simplicity. I am in the process of converting my Cyclocross bike to 1X now. 1X is great for someone relearning, as everything is simpler.
First I suggest you figure out what roads/paths/trails you can get to easily and will ride on regularly, then buy a bike that will work in that “environment”. You may have to adapt your gears once you develop a method of handling the environment you choose.
If you are looking for a bike that is versatile and can be ridden in many environments you might consider a gravel/cyclocross/adventure frame, geared to your environment. There are many excellent bike videos on YouTube that may help you choose. I understand that Cyclocross bikes are great for people loosing weight as they can handle heavier weights compared to other frames.
You might consider a “Cyclocross/gravel/adventure frame with flat or riser handlebars. It may be difficult to ride in a more “aero”, less wind resistant position until you loose more weight. Drop handlebars are made to aide in adopting a more aero position. Wider thicker tires will help too. I would think 33c-45c width tires. I am approaching 69 and can get a little stiff when I try to get aerodynamic with drop handlebars, which is why I am switching my Cyclocross bike to a riser bar. Drop bars distribute more weight forward on the bike which can make one feel vulnerable to being tossed over the handlebars. If you are not interested in racing aerodynamics may mean less.
The long throw, required to operate the levers on drop bars, seems slower and less positive/responsive when compared to more modern 1X trigger or grip shifting systems. While one is getting acquainted with shifting, especially when going up hills, this can require one to anticipate which may not be a good thing for newbies.
Last edited by McMitchell; 08-09-18 at 07:09 AM.
08-09-18, 01:29 PM
#21
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Sorry- Im looking for something that is road worthy but can also handle gravel. As far as a bar style, i know i like flat bar, but am not opposed to drop bar. Eventually i would like to begin doing smaller competitions once i get more of this weight off.
Some of my issue is that im not even sure what type of frames i should be looking at. I have researched a bit online, but i have read a lot of contradicting information too.
hope this helps!
Some of my issue is that im not even sure what type of frames i should be looking at. I have researched a bit online, but i have read a lot of contradicting information too.
hope this helps!
08-09-18, 07:37 PM
#22
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I suggest a used touring bike with drops. I find them to be versatile, comfortable and strong.
Make sure everything works well on the bike. I hate riding a bike that makes noise, doesn’t shift well, wobbles, etc. A tight bike will make riding enjoyable whether it’s new or old technology.
Also, as a rider in his 200s of pounds, I always say that I’d rather lose 5lbs of body weight before I spend $1k to buy a bike that weighs 5 lbs less. I’ve always ridden a used bike and my newest bike is a 2003 road bike.
Congratulations on your progress!
Make sure everything works well on the bike. I hate riding a bike that makes noise, doesn’t shift well, wobbles, etc. A tight bike will make riding enjoyable whether it’s new or old technology.
Also, as a rider in his 200s of pounds, I always say that I’d rather lose 5lbs of body weight before I spend $1k to buy a bike that weighs 5 lbs less. I’ve always ridden a used bike and my newest bike is a 2003 road bike.
Congratulations on your progress!
Last edited by Jay.Money; 08-09-18 at 07:40 PM.
08-10-18, 11:41 AM
#23
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Look for used touring, hybrids or rigid mountain bikes. Gravel bikes are good, but they will likely be more expensive as it is a newer class of bike.
08-11-18, 12:56 PM
#24
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I think a disc Long Haul Trucker might make a good bike for the OP. I know people that use them for everything, so it's not like it would hold anyone back. Although you might not be able to find one used, and the new retail price is higher than budget
08-14-18, 10:15 AM
#25
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I agree with others who say it's hard to buy the "right" bike the first time you go shopping, so used is the way to go. If you buy a new entry-level bike it will possibly serve you well for a short while (if it fits you properly) but you'll soon want to upgrade. I know 'cause I've done this a few times! First mountain bike, happened to me there, first road bike too.
The one exception for me was when I bought my Surly Cross Check with the intent of making it a gravel/adventure rig. I knew it was very upgradeable/morphable so I bought a new one. It's been 3 different setups(including both flat and drop bar) and it's a keeper!
The one exception for me was when I bought my Surly Cross Check with the intent of making it a gravel/adventure rig. I knew it was very upgradeable/morphable so I bought a new one. It's been 3 different setups(including both flat and drop bar) and it's a keeper!
Last edited by pbass; 08-14-18 at 01:45 PM.