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Where would you cut weight on your bike?

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Where would you cut weight on your bike?

Old 10-22-19, 07:23 AM
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biketampa
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Where would you cut weight on your bike?

I have a 2017 Raleight Tamland 1. The changes I've made to it have been adding a redshift sports shockstop stem, a shimano 105 crankset (as I had a left-arm stages PM for the 105), and recently upgraded the wheels which are much lighter than the stock wheels. The wheels obviously made the largest weight savings. At this point, without spending a bunch of money I don't see how I could reduce the weight that much any more. I could upgrade the groupset, add carbon fiber handlebars, and swap out the pedals for eggbeaters. all that would save me a bit. The groupset upgrade is probably more than I want to spend. anything I'm missing? I like the bike. it's a bit heavy but it's a nice ride.
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Old 10-22-19, 07:47 AM
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I would guess that the frame is not light. Maybe look at cranks.
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Old 10-22-19, 07:49 AM
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The easiest and cheapest method is to just not worry about it. You could spend a couple hundred bucks to drop a pound off the bike, and honestly never notice a difference. In my experience, a bike doesn't start to get unwieldy until it's north of 30lbs.

Weight weenies are usually okay with $1 per gram of reduction, and as someone who once upon a time worried about bike weight, you usually end up lightening your wallet more than the actual bike.

Not to sound like a typical N+1 guy, but If you want a lighter bike, buy a lighter bike. I have two bikes that are ~7lbs apart. The lighter one is a little easier to ride faster. But I ride the heavy one more often-- almost twice as often. Weight isn't everything.
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Old 10-22-19, 08:09 AM
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I went weight weenie on a Tamland (like I weighed EVERY single piece). It was fine but it's just not a lightweight bike, and never will be.
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Old 10-22-19, 08:27 AM
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- That Redshift stem would be an easy place to cut weight. A 100mm Redshift weighs 274g and costs $150, while an Uno7 UL stem costs $26 and weighs 108g. It doesnt have that elastomer suspension/absorbtion tech though. Anyways, thats where you could drop almost 6oz.

- Tires are another place where noticeable weight can be cut. There is a wide range of weight for similar sized/style gravel tires, and the lighter dont necessarily offer less realized protection. Popular tires vary in weight, even in comparable size. Conti Terra Speed 40mm is 420g, WTB Resolute 42mm is 460g, Vittoria Terrero Dry 40mm is 490g, Panaracer GravelKink SK 43mm is 497g, and Donnelly MSO 40mm is 532g. These are 5 popular quality gravel tires that are all tubeless ready and vary in weight by 110g.
Going from MSOs to Resolutes will save a combined 5oz and give you tires that are about 3mm wider. And they cost half as much as the MSO tires.

- A full carbon fork would drop some weight since the stock fork has an aluminum steerer. Not cheap though.




As for where I would cut weight on my bike- I just built a new one a couple months ago, so I dont think I would really cut weight anywhere since what I chose was what I wanted within the cost I wanted. Most was reused from my old gravel bike.
- I could cut 100g if i bought a new crank(currently a Shimano CX50 with 46/34 rings), but I dont want to spend the money. Though if I got a smaller crank ratio like 46/30, that would weigh less and I could get a slightly smaller cassette which would drop a few grams too. But thats chasing grams for too much $ for me.
- My frame is where obvious weight could be cut, but I would need a different frame entirely and dont want that. The current one is 853 main tubes and shaped 4130 stays. It isnt the lightest, but its really well finished and half brazed which I like. So the biggest place to drop weight is a place I am not interested in dropping weight.
- My saddle is a Brooks C17 and that is anything but lightweight. No interest in changing there either since comfort is more important than weight for a saddle to me. If I ever find an alternative saddle that feels the same over 50mi of gravel and either weighs or costs less, I will for sure buy it.





My two examples on where to cut weight on your bike would save 11oz and also save you $185. It isnt often that you can save weight AND money! Slap on 3mm wider tires, run em at 5psi lower pressure, and there is the increased comfort to offset the lack of elastomer stem.

Last edited by mstateglfr; 10-22-19 at 08:31 AM.
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Old 10-22-19, 08:31 AM
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Gotta agree with Isotope.

just for education, here is how to get your bike down to 17.4lbs.
(Spoiler - He started with your frame, but in carbon).
https://gravelcyclist.com/training-r...n-gravel-bike/
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Old 10-22-19, 08:33 AM
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Often you can save upwards of a pound on rotating weight by upgrading your wheels and tires without spending a fortune. Can't speak for anyone else, but I REALLY notice reduced rotating weight. And a pound off the wheels and tires is huge!
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Old 10-22-19, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by biketampa View Post
I recently upgraded the wheels which are much lighter than the stock wheels. The wheels obviously made the largest weight savings.
Originally Posted by rando_couche View Post
Often you can save upwards of a pound on rotating weight by upgrading your wheels and tires without spending a fortune.
He already did that.
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Old 10-22-19, 09:15 AM
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I would look to cut weight directly above the saddle - unless that part is already anorexic or malnourished.
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Old 10-22-19, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Rje58 View Post
I would look to cut weight directly above the saddle - unless that part is already anorexic or malnourished.
ha! true. I'm sure by fast guy cycling standards I could lose a few lbs. I'm 6' 2" just a bit under 170lbs which is sort of where I'm comfortable.
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Old 10-22-19, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by shoota View Post
I went weight weenie on a Tamland (like I weighed EVERY single piece). It was fine but it's just not a lightweight bike, and never will be.
definitely agree. it is what it is. can try to cut elsewhere but that frame itself is obviously not light
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Old 10-22-19, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr View Post
- That Redshift stem would be an easy place to cut weight. A 100mm Redshift weighs 274g and costs $150, while an Uno7 UL stem costs $26 and weighs 108g. It doesnt have that elastomer suspension/absorbtion tech though. Anyways, thats where you could drop almost 6oz.

- Tires are another place where noticeable weight can be cut. There is a wide range of weight for similar sized/style gravel tires, and the lighter dont necessarily offer less realized protection. Popular tires vary in weight, even in comparable size. Conti Terra Speed 40mm is 420g, WTB Resolute 42mm is 460g, Vittoria Terrero Dry 40mm is 490g, Panaracer GravelKink SK 43mm is 497g, and Donnelly MSO 40mm is 532g. These are 5 popular quality gravel tires that are all tubeless ready and vary in weight by 110g.
Going from MSOs to Resolutes will save a combined 5oz and give you tires that are about 3mm wider. And they cost half as much as the MSO tires.

- A full carbon fork would drop some weight since the stock fork has an aluminum steerer. Not cheap though.




As for where I would cut weight on my bike- I just built a new one a couple months ago, so I dont think I would really cut weight anywhere since what I chose was what I wanted within the cost I wanted. Most was reused from my old gravel bike.
- I could cut 100g if i bought a new crank(currently a Shimano CX50 with 46/34 rings), but I dont want to spend the money. Though if I got a smaller crank ratio like 46/30, that would weigh less and I could get a slightly smaller cassette which would drop a few grams too. But thats chasing grams for too much $ for me.
- My frame is where obvious weight could be cut, but I would need a different frame entirely and dont want that. The current one is 853 main tubes and shaped 4130 stays. It isnt the lightest, but its really well finished and half brazed which I like. So the biggest place to drop weight is a place I am not interested in dropping weight.
- My saddle is a Brooks C17 and that is anything but lightweight. No interest in changing there either since comfort is more important than weight for a saddle to me. If I ever find an alternative saddle that feels the same over 50mi of gravel and either weighs or costs less, I will for sure buy it.





My two examples on where to cut weight on your bike would save 11oz and also save you $185. It isnt often that you can save weight AND money! Slap on 3mm wider tires, run em at 5psi lower pressure, and there is the increased comfort to offset the lack of elastomer stem.
thanks. that is helpful. I hadn't thought of some of those things.
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Old 10-22-19, 10:41 AM
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I would buy a different bike, before upgrading the components on that one!
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Old 10-22-19, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by biketampa View Post
ha! true. I'm sure by fast guy cycling standards I could lose a few lbs. I'm 6' 2" just a bit under 170lbs which is sort of where I'm comfortable.
I hate you. I'm 1" taller and 30lb heavier, and seem to be stuck there.
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Old 10-22-19, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by shoota View Post
He already did that.
D'oh! That's what I get for reading BF when I'm supposed to be working!
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Old 10-22-19, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by rando_couche View Post
I hate you. I'm 1" taller and 30lb heavier, and seem to be stuck there.
lol I've heard that before. Honestly a large part of it is genetics for me. don't get me wrong. I work to stay at this weight but even if I didn't do triathlons and bike a lot it would take me longer than most to gain that weight back. but in the endurance sport world there are a lot of people our height that are much lighter than I am.
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Old 10-22-19, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by biketampa View Post
lol I've heard that before. Honestly a large part of it is genetics for me. don't get me wrong. I work to stay at this weight but even if I didn't do triathlons and bike a lot it would take me longer than most to gain that weight back. but in the endurance sport world there are a lot of people our height that are much lighter than I am.
get a lighter bike, you won't work as hard and then you'll gain weight.
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Old 10-22-19, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Metieval View Post
I would buy a different bike, before upgrading the components on that one!
it's a thought for sure. anything I buy I keep in mind the idea of transferring over to a new frameset. the wheels and saddle are ones I'd be happy transferring over. The crankset didn't cost much. I could always buy a Lynskey gravel bike on sale or buy a lauf true grit frame + fork and transfer most others over. not for maybe another year or so though. If I bought a new gravel bike I might switch over to a 1x setup though.
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Old 10-22-19, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by biketampa View Post
it's a thought for sure. anything I buy I keep in mind the idea of transferring over to a new frameset. the wheels and saddle are ones I'd be happy transferring over. The crankset didn't cost much. I could always buy a Lynskey gravel bike on sale or buy a lauf true grit frame + fork and transfer most others over. not for maybe another year or so though. If I bought a new gravel bike I might switch over to a 1x setup though.
This post might just push me over the edge on a Bikesdirect 1x bike. It's an inexpensive way to try out grx1x for not a huge investment. In which Wolftooth already has chainrings out for the GRX cranks now. Up to a 46t
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Old 10-22-19, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by DrIsotope View Post
The easiest and cheapest method is to just not worry about it. You could spend a couple hundred bucks to drop a pound off the bike, and honestly never notice a difference. In my experience, a bike doesn't start to get unwieldy until it's north of 30lbs.

Weight weenies are usually okay with $1 per gram of reduction, and as someone who once upon a time worried about bike weight, you usually end up lightening your wallet more than the actual bike.

Not to sound like a typical N+1 guy, but If you want a lighter bike, buy a lighter bike. I have two bikes that are ~7lbs apart. The lighter one is a little easier to ride faster. But I ride the heavy one more often-- almost twice as often. Weight isn't everything.
I don't disagree with you. I was fine buying a new set of wheels that I like and were a reasonable price. But the tamland frameset is steel and fairly heavy. the stock wheels were heavy so I replaced those. in theory that will save me ~1.5 lbs. I'll have to see once I put them on and weigh the bike if it ends up being that much. all else is small potatoes.
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Old 10-22-19, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by biketampa View Post
I don't disagree with you. I was fine buying a new set of wheels that I like and were a reasonable price. But the tamland frameset is steel and fairly heavy. the stock wheels were heavy so I replaced those. in theory that will save me ~1.5 lbs. I'll have to see once I put them on and weigh the bike if it ends up being that much. all else is small potatoes.
I got mine down to 22lbs. Curious to see where you land.
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Old 10-22-19, 01:54 PM
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My Niner is right under 20lbs and I don't obsess over the weight. I'm cycling for excercise, so dropping 50 grams here and there means nothing. I have a buddy who obsesses over grams and it cracks me up. Ride the damn bike! Heck, I have two strong cups of coffee and a big bowl of steel cut oats an hour before I ride, and if I time it right I drop about 5 lbs right before I leave!
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Old 10-27-19, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by csrpenfab View Post
My Niner is right under 20lbs and I don't obsess over the weight. I'm cycling for excercise, so dropping 50 grams here and there means nothing. I have a buddy who obsesses over grams and it cracks me up. Ride the damn bike! Heck, I have two strong cups of coffee and a big bowl of steel cut oats an hour before I ride, and if I time it right I drop about 5 lbs right before I leave!
If my bike was 20 lbs, I wouldnít worry about it. My bike is 26+ lbs. So itís a noticeable weight difference between my gravel bike and road bike.
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Old 10-28-19, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by biketampa View Post
ha! true. I'm sure by fast guy cycling standards I could lose a few lbs. I'm 6' 2" just a bit under 170lbs which is sort of where I'm comfortable.
I'm the same height, and I can get down to the low 160s during racing season, but it's tough. And I think I am actually a bit stronger and faster in the high 160s.

If you like the bike, and you are comfortable on it, don't sweat its weight.
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